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I got a set of five powders from ForgeWorld.
So far I have only used them on one model, but I found mixing a little with water and applying that as my base and then building up with dry power gave the best results. Check out my Blood Angel terminator to see what I mean, thought his muddy legs looked pretty cool.
quote=God In Action 598038 6889218 null]Building it up around nuts and bolt and joints will work best. Apparently you need to seal those powders with varnish, according to FW itself.
Yeah there's a PDF you can download from their site. Well worth printing off if you can.
I used a can of Purity Seal to lock in the powder and protect my finished models.
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N7_Rik wrote: I will have to try that, I've been using it as a sort of wash
More rust
I found quite a tricky process, I didn't know how much was enough and did a few tests. Get it right and the results are awesome. But if you go too far it can ruin an otherwise nice model.
Like the chap above said, just add it to the rivets and egdes anywhere you'd think a real tank would rust.
Google a few pictures of rusty cars and alike to give you a better idea on how rust appears.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/06/01 11:37:42
Thanks for the advice guys, I didn't realise you had to varnish over it. Do you use matte varnish? Will it affect the other paint? Can you paint it on or is it sprayed?
On the other hand, I want these wagons to be quite heavily rusted. Like the only reason they don't fall apart is because the Orks believe that they won't.
Looking up rust "patterns" on google right now.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/06/01 13:12:34
Let'z get lootin' I'z ded 'ard an ready for stompin'
In the Emperor's name, let none survive.
Varnishing over pigments tends to dull the effect, somewhat. I'd avoid doing so for a display piece, but find it necessary to protect the powders on a playing piece that will see any amount of direct handling. Some people intentionally go a little heavier than they might otherwise with the powders, so that the final result lands where they wanted it, once the varnish dials it down.
Spray varnishes are generally preferred, as they're less likely to disturb the applied pigment during application. I varnish the model as I normally would (gloss coat or two, for extra protection, followed by a matte coat to kill the shine) before starting pigment work. After I apply the pigments, I give a final light dusting of matte varnish to help lock them down.
As for application technique, while I'll occasionally make a wash, I generally prefer to apply the pigments dry. Once I'm happy with the placement and amount, I use rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl - the common drug store stuff) to fix them in place. Loading a brush with the alcohol and lightly touching it to a patch of pigment lets capillary action spread the liquid with minimal brush work, meaning that the pigment largely stays where I put it. Just be careful not to flood areas with so much alcohol that it causes runs and drips, carrying pigment with it.
Some people prefer using a dedicated fixer (MIG, AK, etc.), but I'm quite happy with the alcohol. It's plenty strong to keep the pigment in place during painting and varnishing and is both cheap and easy to acquire. It's not so strong, though, that I can't go back in with a stiff brush or dry finger and rub away at areas where I went too heavy, or completely erase them with water.
The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
Iv'e heard that you can seal your weathering powders by mixing them with a little watercolor before you apply them and i'm fairly sure this won't dull the effect.
I always use weathering pigments dry. I dab it on with a drybrush and then saturate another brush with white spirit. I then lightly touch the area and the white spirit will wick onto and into the pigment, fixing it in place.
If I want a streak of rust I'll use oils. If I want a pool of rust I'll use modelmates rust effect for the foundation.
On this tractor I used all of these methods. The dirt was with a little grit and weathering pigments:
In the Emperor's name, let none survive. 
Death Korps of Krieg Siege Army 1500 
Fight the grey tide 
