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Hi there, here is an imperial guard hellhound. I've started the weathering process on it. Let me know what you think. the pics turned out really green for some reason.

Looks very nice. Subtle and realistic.

The excessive greenness could be due to colour balance, shooting under fluorescent lights using daylight colour setting, for instance.

I agree, that's a nice amount of weathering you have there.

You've struck the balance as it's noticeable but not over the top, you should be quite happy with that!

Very nice! What methods did you use?

Hi thanks for the input.

I did primer, then used vallejo's rust and chipping color set for the rust base coat.

I then did a coat of ak interactive chipping solution,

then a matte varnish, basecoat and then chipping.

varnish again then reworked chips

I applied what I thought was going to be a filter but was actually more of a dusty wash. I didn't realize the wash would be so intense or global so its a little dustier than i wanted.

I started the panel fading with oils yesterday and now I'm waiting for the oils to dry.

I had never heard of the AK Interactive chipping solution, but it looks interesting. I've tried the salt method with mixed results, so I may have to give this a try.

Very nice effect.... really convincing.... Like it a lot!

Looks really good. Realistic - not over-done.

you mentioned that your now waiting for the oils to dry, can you explain what you did with them to 'panel fade', as ive only recently started to use oil washes and am looking to expand my skill set.

have you tried the hairspray method? currently thats what i use and id like to know how it compares to the chipping solution
Overall i really like your weathering, its enough to make it noticeable without breaking up the panel schemes. also at what stage do you apply your decals? assuming after the chipping?

Hi. about panel fading: http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html

I definitely recommend reading that article but I can offer you my quick and dirty explanation. Its a very simple technique and he recommends practicing it off of a model but oils are great for "sketching" on models because you can just use white spirit and clean them up.

Enough rambling, onto the technique. I get a small squeeze of oil onto a piece of cardboard to leech out the linseed oil or whatever carrier the oil paint has in it then use a small pointed brush to dab oil onto the surface.

With a flat brush slightly damp with white spirit blend the oil into the surface in the appropriate direction.

I try to keep the dots of oil small so when I blend them into the surface with a flat brush I keep control over how much "panel fading" i'm really doing.

On vertical panels the accepted way to blend is in the direction of gravity or straight down if you prefer. On horizontal panels you want to blend in a circular motion. White paint gives the panel a faded appearance, other colors add interest and "chromatic richness" (Rick Lawler's phrase not mine, another weathering luminary).

the purpose of this effect is to simulate the real world effect of the sun and elements on the exterior of a vehicle.

It is recommended to keep colors in logical places, brighter colors towards the areas that would receive more light and usually an umber in the shadows.

Oil washes are another matter altogether and they are done at a different time.

About the hairspray method. I have seen it recommended to use hairspray, i've tried it and I've had mixed results. Usually its a quest for the right hairspray and usually I would get really weird results, too much paint falling off or I would have to get out a bench grinder to get paint off (not really, but almost). I have used pump, and aerosol and I have even decanted hairspray into a separate jar and sprayed it on with an airbrush (like that was going to be the difference between success and failure!).

I bought this AK stuff last year I think and I don't know if I used it before but it was very easy to get the desired result before going too far this time. Now the creator Mig Jimenez has a new company which is slightly cheaper in the USA called AMMO which I would recommend buying if its cheaper. Basically same products in a different label.

I applied decals after chipping and then used a decal setting solution to soften then and then lightly tear them with some tweezers.

Long reply, thanks for comments

Long reply, But excellent and exactly what I was looking for
Thank you very much for both the link and the explanation, I will definitely take a look into the article at some point later today.

I must agree that the hairspray can be very varied, even with the same brand I found that on some models a light scrub was enough and that on others a grinder was indeed the prefered tool Well seeing as Xmas is coming up I might just grab a bottle of the AK stuff (as im in the UK so i imagine the AMMO stuff is harder to get a hold of).

Seems a lot of people use a decal softener, I havent ever bothered with decals (being an ork player), but I will definitely grab some softener also.

Hows the weathering coming? tank complete?

Hello. Here are a couple more images. I'm getting close the end now and I've enjoyed this process a lot. I've learned a lot and made tons of mistakes but I think I'm happy with it overall.

Wow!! Very cool! Weathering is top notch!!

Working on this tank this weekend. The model is not put together well. I bought it awhile ago. Decoded to try my hand at the "black&white" technique. Let me know what you think.

Really top notch weathering on the Chimera... Looks very convincing.... I am always keen to learn new ways to create age and damage on models... so I will definitely go through the tutorial you have listed! Thanks!

I am working on a scratch build Macharius Tank currently and would love to go for this kind of colour scheme and effect on it.... would suit it well!

All the best!

Does look pretty good.
BTW I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here for everyone to use. If anyone else has similar photos I'd be happy to post them in my gallery to keep them all in one place or should I start a thread (which could get lost over time). I know - I'll put it in my sig.

Very good

Some more pics. More coping more scratching. More of all the good stuff. Thanks for comments, keep seem coming.

looking frickin' awesome! The blues fade really nicely and look fantastic, the blackened/stained areas look totally realistic too!

Could you please explain what you've done as you post your pictures? I'd really like to know ow you've gotten to each stage Espeically what technique you used to get the grime look thats going on.

Also you mentioned you were trying the 'black and white' technique? what is this?

Black and white technique is painting the tank in grey scale as if from a zenithal source. Literally using black and white to paint it. Then I added white chips to the black and white where i thought they should be.

Then I misted the base coat over the model from about 8" away and then added some shading and highlighting with minitaire.

I then sprayed gloss varnish on. Which was slightly out of order. I should have done my chipping and details before the gloss.

I did chipping after that and then I tried to make an acrylic "filter" to unify the colors underneath with pale blue model color. The model color didn't really bite very well over the gloss coat so I got a sort of unintentionally pleasing rain fade effect.

I did a pin wash with a dark grey enamel wash and then i did some streaking with Mig ammo streaking grime. I added some rust streaks but i did that after I took the picture. I had a little modelling insomnia.

yeh man it turned out fantastic, the rain fade look turned out pretty damn well. I really like it, its a look id really like to replicate for my ork vehicles. But in a bad moons yellow.

Il have to give the black and white technique a go, as i useually do a little preshading. I didn't quite get what you meant by; "Then I added white chips to the black and white where i thought they should be."

Was that chips with a brush? painted on i mean.

Well looking forward to next set of pics

The technique in question is covered in this book:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/2352503876/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend it. Its about 25 dollars american. Its his technique and if you are familiar with color modulation at all its basically color modulation in black and white but he does everything first in black and white.

Painting, chipping and some weathering. So when I added the chips, I did chipping with white paint where I thought there would be chipping. That is the more artistic side of weathering.

A couple things that make chips look more "realistic" is that you need to cover them and the base work with a glaze or filter of very thinnned paint. This will create depth in the finish. And you can also study other examples of chipping. If you live in a place with some industrial, farm, or construction equipment they can provide you with your own HD library of real world weathering.

Details completed ready for weathering!

update, finishing up a dread. Spent a lot of time weathering streaking and wearing this thing out. Its about done. I just wanted to show its final stages. C&C if you want!

Really awesome work. Love the bules and weathering on the sm vehicles.

Do you mind if I add some of your posts and images to the painting with oils dakka articles?

I don't mind. Thanks for taking a look.

The agony of seeing the blue you chose doesn't match.

Ultramarine scheme for my marines. Needs weathering but otherwise done.

Deathwing sgt. I've been painting my original dark vengeance set again. I think this has been in the pre painted stages for 2 years.

Have a look and tell me what you think!

I really like the white highlights on the power sword. Gives the sword a real nice edge and definition. Do you use white highlights alot? Recently seen quite a few people who use white highlights for almost all colours and it works out really well.