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I've started a Renegade Militia force, and so far, I've acquired a Conversion set, a Weapon Arms, and a Cadian Armoured Fist. My plan is to make atleast 21 Renegadfe Militiamen out of this, i.e. 2 militia squads plus 1 extra weapon. I want to use the Cadian torsos, extra legs from Bits and Kits, converted Lasguns, and other stuff. My main issue are the torsos: They don't look too chaos-y. My plan is to buy some GS and make some robes for them. WIll it work? How do I do it? It's my first GS project, and I really need help. Thanks!

Eh if you're not experienced with green stuff I'd advise against trying to do robes & opt for something simpler but more akin to what fw produced with the renegades. Do a single plate vs the wannabe Roman gladiator look at my molded muscles breast plate of the cadians. Could even do a press mold of one of the renegade & then put it over the cadian armor.

Here's a post I did on a similar thread:

 bubber wrote:
This chap is just a Cadian with a Maxmini head & guard heavy weapon back pack:


This is a Catachan with a GS hood:


Rough Riders using WHFB Chaos Knights & FW renegade torsos:


A group shot of my 'Blood Pact':


& my command squad, again using some WHFB chaos bits:


You can do a lot with the basic Cadian models with just some minor work like head swaps!

Some of these links might be useful, particularly the third one. Not a sculpting tutorial, but it's pretty useful to see where folds and wrinkles might go. Heck, you can even wrap a sheet around yourself and look in a mirror to get a basic idea of the same. Though at the same time, keep it simple.

For putty, if you buy green stuff, mix in more yellow to make it it softer for longer, which'll make it easier to stroke and blend into clothlike folds. The manufacturers of green stuff recommend 3 parts yellow to 2 parts blue for general sculpting.
Alternatively, see if you can also get a soft, claylike putty like magic sculp or apoxie sculpt. There are two similar UK products called Cold Clay and aSculpt. Unfortunately I'm not sure what's available to you in Sweden.
Now, personally, I think these can be a little too soft and fragile for modelling details at wargaming mini scales, without a bit of experience or leaving them to stiffen up some; but they're great if you mix up a little and then mix that with some green stuff. It softens green stuff and 'loosens' it's chewing-gum texture nicely. Here's an excellent article about green stuff and apoxie sculpt, and how they are when you mix them together. (And here's a few more articles to go with it)

Tool-wise, what do you have? Personally, I think most putty-pushing is best with hard metal or wooden tools behind it (and those tools with good, fine edges and points, which unfortunately excludes Games Workshop sculpting tools) but clay shapers can also be useful for shaping and smoothing cloth folds in soft putty. If you haven't heard of them, clay shapers are like paintbrushes, with a wooden handle and metal ferrule, but with a shaped silicone rubber head rather than bristles. Clay shapers are the type with 'extra-firm' black heads - the 'firm' grey and 'soft' white types are known as colour shapers, intended for manipulating paint and pastels etc. 'Colour Shaper' is the overall brand name: other off-brand silicone tools like this are cheaper, but don't have the range of sizes and firmnesses, and may be coloured differently.
Personally, I like a size 0 'round cup' clay shaper for smoothing, and a size 0 'taper' can be useful for marking and smoothing soft folds in cloth. Size 0 taper and flat clay shapers can also be bought with wire loop sculpting tools of the same shape on the other end of the handle. (I.e. a rounded point or square, respectively), which can be handy for the extra push needed from a metal tool, though without the near-knife-sharp edge that a miniature sculpting tool needs. You can at least take a look at them on the Heresy Miniatures site, here.

Ok this advice may sound weird but give it a try. Use toilet paper and PVA glue for robes just thin PVA with water and brush it on the paper then wrap it around desired position. It will dry rock hard it is paintable (think this word doesnt exist), and you will also get nice texture.
This method is much easier than trying to sculpt it with green stuff until you became more experienced with it.
Also take not I think there is no way of taking it off once it has dried.