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After the transition from Finecast to plastic many miniature remain in resin: most aspect warriors, Grotesques, some character...
I just bought from GW web store a Arjac Rockfist and a Cyberwolf for my SW collection, usually I buy from indipendent retailers, but in case of Finecast models I buy directly mainly becaeuse their excellent customer service and the high probability to receive a miscast model. I admit every time I have bought a resin model something was broken or heavily wrong.
Here the picture of the biggest mistakes:



The cyberwolf has the left claw completely covered by a bit of resin.
Arjac has 3 bits of plastic that cover the leg junctions, also the runes on the cloth are barely visibles.

I have still to decide if I should ask for a replacement of both model, I am always cautious to request these replacement because it happen every time I buy directly from GW and I don't like to appear like someone who abuse of their customer service for obtaining more models.

How you deal with these resin models? Gw still hold many importart models in this category, I remember when Eldar Aspect warriors became Finecast I bought a box of each aspect in metal before the phase out because I knew the new version would be worse.

How to deal with it? Throw it in the garbage, learn your lesson, and never buy finecast again. It doesn't matter how "important" the models are, they're utter trash with a near-100% miscast rate. If you insist on having a finecast model your best option is to contact GW customer service and demand replacements until you manage to get a good cast of each part. It will probably take several cycles of demanding replacements as each replacement is just as bad as the original, but eventually you'll get lucky. An arm here, a head there, and someday you have a complete model.

Just be very careful once you've managed to get a decent cast. Finecast is very fragile, rough treatment (such as gently touching the model with a paintbrush) will cause it to crumble away or snap in half.

OP: What you're showing in those pics aren't miscasts, either. They're necessary vents and channels for the resin to flow. Without them, parts come out quite bubbly. So for what they are, they're about as good as you can expect. Sorry.

The wolf claw is a gate in a really bad position. Get the greenstuff out and find your most zen headspace.

The channels under Arjac's groin: Again, zen headspace. Sharp, clean edge scalpel. Putty handy to rebuild edges if you nick 'em. A mix of milliput and greenstuff can hold an edge quite nicely.

There's a reason I (still) charge extra for working on finecast. Such a crappy casting material. :(

Yeah it sucks, even if you don't get a miscast you get vents in really crappy places. One of the very few finecast models I bought seemed to have vents everywhere, even in areas which were concave making them really difficult to remove.

The upside I guess is that finecast is really easy to cut as long as you take small slices.

Yeah it's not an issue. Just a few minutes with a scalpel will have it sorted.

Those arent too bad, at least when the resin is in relatively accessible places it can be fixed.

I've had 2 models with worse.

1 was misaligned, it looked like it was made from 2 half models badly stuck together.

The other, a Warpsmith, had extra resin in some really tight spaces on the robe, difficult to cut out and fix without snapping brittle parts off.

Fictional wrote:
Those arent too bad, at least when the resin is in relatively accessible places it can be fixed.

I've had 2 models with worse.

1 was misaligned, it looked like it was made from 2 half models badly stuck together.

The other, a Warpsmith, had extra resin in some really tight spaces on the robe, difficult to cut out and fix without snapping brittle parts off.

Did you look closely at the pics? On Arjac there's extra resin in places where it's a bitch to clean off, in the gap between the groin plate and the thigh plate, on the cloth between his legs, on one of the teeth on his left leg, there looks like there's a thread of resin in his mouth, on the inside of his right leg butted up against one of the armour studs. There's also an assortment of bubbles all over it and some of the runes on the cloth are miscast (detail is so soft you can barely see the runes compared to the nice sharp ones on the pics on the GW site).

EDIT: Just saw on Arjac there's also vents/bridges between the right thigh armour and the thigh shield bit that will be a bitch to get a knife in to, one of which will require reshaping a curved surface.

Arjac is shameful for a $25USD chunk of resin, but salvageable with a lot of work. Unfortunately even if you get a replacement those vent and bridge locations are still going to be there. Also the surface quality is pretty crap (has a texture where it should be smooth), I'm not sure if that'll improve with a replacement.

The Cyberwolf is covered in bubbles and has vents on the paws that will require reshaping much of the paw and vents in the armpit (or whatever you call that area on a dog) where you have to try and remove it while reshaping the fur. I'd be tempted to ask for a refund given the number of "hairs" that end in a bubble when they should end in a sharp point.

But it mostly just reminds me why finecast is junk and why I avoid it like the plague.

If you want to fix it, whip out the greenstuff and milliput and get an assortment of knife blades with different shapes so you can try and work in to those nooks and crannies, your typical straight edged #11 blade will struggle to fix a lot of that so you'll need some small curved ones.

I've got one finecast model.

It's a chaos character for fantasy. Pretty-boy fabio type with fabulous hair. Can't remember his name - but the game is dead now, so more or less irrelevant.

Anyway, he came with a shield and a long pointy rapier.

Every one that the local GW had on the rack had an unfortunate bubble right in the middle of the blade. The manager pulled out a carton of fresh ones and we went through 17 of them until we found one without that fault.

I stopped getting finecast.

Arjac is salvageable. I'd demand a replacement for that wolf though. Cleaning up flash and mold lines is one thing, but rescuplting the model isn't your job.

Never feel bad about reporting a shoddy product. GW is a for-profit corporation, not your buddy who is doing you a favor.

My experience of Finecast is the chunkier the model the better. I've gotten Coteaz and a couple of Space Marine models and found them to be either fine or easily repairable; by comparison elves (or other things with thin/flimsy components) are fragile and brittle to the point of unuseability.

Cleaning up a Finecast model is a tedious task but it's not too difficult if you're careful and you've got a sharp knife. Don't try to do it with clippers, don't rush, and make sure you know what the area under the flash is supposed to look like and you should be fine.

Well at least Finecast is cheaper...oh...wait.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Did you look closely at the pics? On Arjac there's extra resin in places where it's a bitch to clean off, in the gap between the groin plate and the thigh plate, on the cloth between his legs, on one of the teeth on his left leg, there looks like there's a thread of resin in his mouth, on the inside of his right leg butted up against one of the armour studs. There's also an assortment of bubbles all over it and some of the runes on the cloth are miscast (detail is so soft you can barely see the runes compared to the nice sharp ones on the pics on the GW site).

Yes, I saw, those are all in easy to trim places. Just need careful use of clippers, a knife and a file or two.

Unless you have very poor hand control or vision, its not insurmountable, just takes time.

I bought a Jabberslythe early into finecast. Given it's appearance I figured a few air bubbles wouldn't matter, so it would be a good first finecast model to try.

Unfortunately, despite being a brand new model (GW never cast it in any other material) it fit together as badly as any large metal monster before it. It was rather disappointing, as finecast was meant to be better for this. I didn't buy finecast again for about four years (2010-2014), and even then it was discounted models in limited numbers.

 WhiteBobcat wrote:
Arjac is salvageable. I'd demand a replacement for that wolf though. Cleaning up flash and mold lines is one thing, but rescuplting the model isn't your job.

Never feel bad about reporting a shoddy product. GW is a for-profit corporation, not your buddy who is doing you a favor.

A replacement would have the same issue. That's a casting gate, not a result of a damaged mould.

Fictional wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Did you look closely at the pics? On Arjac there's extra resin in places where it's a bitch to clean off, in the gap between the groin plate and the thigh plate, on the cloth between his legs, on one of the teeth on his left leg, there looks like there's a thread of resin in his mouth, on the inside of his right leg butted up against one of the armour studs. There's also an assortment of bubbles all over it and some of the runes on the cloth are miscast (detail is so soft you can barely see the runes compared to the nice sharp ones on the pics on the GW site).

Yes, I saw, those are all in easy to trim places. Just need careful use of clippers, a knife and a file or two.

Unless you have very poor hand control or vision, its not insurmountable, just takes time.

Nothing is insurmountable of you want to spend a lot of time on it. I saw a video of a guy who completely reshaped the hull of a model ship because it was the wrong shape.... but at a guess it was several days work at least.

I count no less than 21 things that need fixing or cleaning up on Arjac, some of them might only take a few seconds but some are going to take a few minutes and a couple require resculpting areas which can be quite time consuming.

For example the runes on his loincloth definitely look like a miscast and would be very difficult to fix. The casting gate between what I would describe as the bum plate and the rear of the thigh plate requires reshaping the grooves in the groin area. His left ankle on the inner side also looks miscast and in a difficult area to fix.

The longer I look at the model the more flaws I see GW should be ashamed, Arjac is a cool model and one of the few I'd still want to buy even though I don't collect 40k anymore, but I sure as hell wouldn't buy a finecast version.

Speaking from experience, I've bought quite a few finecast models for LoTR and Fantasy. I've never had any specific issues with it. No major holes, gaps or warping. The only issue I've had was with Azog on the White Warg and that seemed more to do with the actual mould than the material itself.

Use a knife, clean the model up, same as you would anything else. Those aren't miscasts, they're just resin vents. Their placement does suck, but there's nothing wrong with the cast itself.

Also, Finecrap? What is this, 2011? Not even GW calls it Finecast anymore.

 Brother SRM wrote:
Use a knife, clean the model up, same as you would anything else. Those aren't miscasts, they're just resin vents. Their placement does suck, but there's nothing wrong with the cast itself.

Also, Finecrap? What is this, 2011? Not even GW calls it Finecast anymore.

The lack of runes on the loincloth and bubbles are most definitely miscasts.

Just as an update: I just requested a replacement for both models and GW customer service is excellent as usual so they already confirmed the new order.
I am sincerly worried about the Finecast issues: I come from a time when GW used to sell metal bits of their entire range of models and I never had a single miscast from them as they were always perfect.I don't like their (past) policy about prices and rules, but I can not think how a model company (like Kirby used to define his own company) is able to increase the quality of their plastic kits like they are now but at the same time they throw in the bin their entire range of metal models by replacing them with a crappy resin and not make any quality test.
Space marine characters, Tyranids, Eldar Aspect Warriors, the Avatar and a lot of Fantasy model completely ruined by a decision made by someone who should be killed by the Inquisition right after the first batch of faults has been produced.
I am not able to understand how someone who wants to paint a 10 man squad of Aspect Warriors or Haemunculs army with grotesques can face this adventure.
I don't want to abuse the customer service, but I hope that each time I request for a replacement (always documented with pictures and the batch code of every model) someone understand the need to increase the quality check and is able to end this situation.

Farseer M wrote:
I don't want to abuse the customer service, but I hope that each time I request for a replacement (always documented with pictures and the batch code of every model) someone understand the need to increase the quality check and is able to end this situation.

It would be nice but I really doubt it. You already have lots of people getting replacements 2, 3, 4 or more times due to miscasts. If GW don't already know their resin sucks, I doubt your replacements are going to make any difference.

It is just so shameful that GW ever let finecast get to the mass production stage and then have the audacity to charge more for them than they did the metals. They either think their customers are stupid or they themselves are stupid. I remember when it first came out and even the promotional images if you looked at them closely you could see the bubbles that weren't present in the metal models and over time they've gone crazy with the vents trying to reduce bubbles, so now you get to spend more time cleaning those up (even though they obviously haven't managed to get rid of the bubbles either).

Finecast got me kicked out of a store for winning at an argument.. that was an empty store, between me and the boss.. she kept trying to tell me she could bounce Failcast Wracks off the floor without taking damage.. I knew she was utterly full of gak because the wracks' weapons are incredibly fragile.

GW just seems to keep failing at the Resin idea... they really need to just get their plate-endectomy and be done with it...

for the record, the Plate-Endectomy is a surgical procedure where most of the abdominal tissue is replaced with a plate of plexiglass, because the patient's head it too far up their own ass to even remotely see clearly without it.

Pressure Casting is the only way to do Resin projects, and GW needs to wake up and smell the reality.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

Farseer M wrote:
I don't want to abuse the customer service, but I hope that each time I request for a replacement (always documented with pictures and the batch code of every model) someone understand the need to increase the quality check and is able to end this situation.

It would be nice but I really doubt it. You already have lots of people getting replacements 2, 3, 4 or more times due to miscasts. If GW don't already know their resin sucks, I doubt your replacements are going to make any difference.

It is just so shameful that GW ever let finecast get to the mass production stage and then have the audacity to charge more for them than they did the metals. They either think their customers are stupid or they themselves are stupid. I remember when it first came out and even the promotional images if you looked at them closely you could see the bubbles that weren't present in the metal models and over time they've gone crazy with the vents trying to reduce bubbles, so now you get to spend more time cleaning those up (even though they obviously haven't managed to get rid of the bubbles either).

The sad thing is that it's probably more economical for them to replace a large number of parts, until eventually either refunding or getting a successful set on the very tiny sub-set of their market that can spot AND are bothererd about the flaws, than it is for them to cast in metal or pressure-cast.

I'm not sure whether that says something about:
how unobservant and/or apathetic about things most of the market is (given the samples of GW spincast resin I've seen),
how absurdly cheap the material is in comparison to metal,
how craziily high GW's margin is on these,
how utterly commited to not backing down in the face of a Bad Idea GW are,
or all the above.

Winter, I vote 3+4 on your list..

I deal with 'Fine'cast by not buying it.

The fact that GW are willing to replace miscasts isn't a selling point for it - they're legally obliged to do that anyway. I'm not going to reward them with my money for choosing to release a product so flawed.

I bought Draigo and the model was okay.

Bought a brother captain and he was worse

Bought an Imotekh and dear God was that modelse screwed up.


I've now resigned myself to the fact that until a suitable plastic option is available, I'm converting my character models and avoiding finecast altogether.

Even if you somehow manage to get an okay cast, I find that the paint just looks rougher on them and the finish is always much worse than the same paint job on a plastic model.

Glad to hear GW are sorting you out, hope you have more luck than I did!

That actually looks like a pretty good finecast model -- at least, above average. The solution, if you don't want to work with it, is to not buy GW resin models. Word of warning: Forge World infantry-sized models will not be significantly better/worse than the photos you snapped, so if that's not your thing, don't go there.

Now, if you want to work with them, having the right tools and mindset REALLY helps. First of all, you need good tools; toss out the junk clippers and dull knife. Second, you need to be prepared to spend more time on prepping the model than it probably takes to assemble, prime, paint, base and photograph a plastic model, if you want an end product that is relative to the cost of the expensive finecast mini.

Tools: you need a really sharp blade; scalpel is best (the GW hobby knife actually uses swann-morton scalpel blades), but a new hobby knife is fine. Get rid of the cheap dollar store wire cutters, and get a real pair of clippers, like Xuron or GW. Get some fine sandpaper, some very fine diamond files, a hole filler (like liquid greenstuff). For a lot of models you will also need green stuff and some sculpting tools.

Prep (assuming infantry sized models):

1. You want to cut the model off the resin tree first, but not anywhere close to the model. As others have said, resin is much more brittle than plastic, so if you put pressure on a fine part, it will just snap off.

2. With good cutters, snip within a 1-2mm to the model . Then, using a sharp knife, cut it back to where you want it, leaving just a little bit of resin protruding. Be very careful, as many GW models, it's hard to tell where the channel starts and where the model ends.

3. Using a diamond file (or 400-ish grit sandpaper), take it down so it's even. Then use 800+ grit sandpaper or a sanding block to make it smooth.

4. Dryfit it all. There's a good chance some pieces are warped. To fix those, either use a hairdryer, or hot water to soften the resin, then bend it into shape. If you have a quick grip vice or some other device to hold it in that shape for a day or so, even better (sometimes, if you don't, they'll bend back into the deformed shape after a while -- but not always).

5. Wash everything in soap and water (I do it at this stage, rather than earlier, because it's a good time to get rid of some resin dust).

6. Correct any bubbles by filling them with putty, liquid green stuff, gap-filling superglue, or whatever other liquid filler of your choice. Get rid of mold lines as you're going through it.

7. Correct any major problems with pieces -- "Remediation" it's called. It might require greenstuff. A lot of times, when you cut off a channel, the resin piece is missing some detail that should be there, though it might be in a place where a lot of people don't care (the bottom of a boot, but one that isn't flush to the ground, for example). Dryfit everything together again, and have a good idea of what you're going to have to fill in afterwards.

8. Superglue the pieces together, possibly into subcomponents that will cleanly glue together when finished.

9. Use Green Stuff where necessary, and sculpt in the gaps (like on two halves of a fur cape, or two halves of a wolf).

And... at last you're ready to prime.

Once in a while, I get masochistic, and really want to put together a resin model. But usually, I just stay away from them because they suck up too much time in the prep.

Another reason I often don't love resin models: drop them, and they tend to break :(

 Talys wrote:
Word of warning: Forge World infantry-sized models will not be significantly better/worse than the photos you snapped, so if that's not your thing, don't go there.....

Another reason I often don't love resin models: drop them, and they tend to break :(

Personally I've bought a few dozen FW models and bubbles have been rare. I've probably seen as many bubbles on 20+ FW models as I've seen on my singular finecast Lord Commissar or my singular Broodlord, both of which I got replacements for and the replacements were equally as bad (the first Lord Commissar had a bubble on his nose which would have been extremely difficult to fix). FW stuff often has big gates as well, but there's usually only 1 per part positioned somewhere innocuous, so it might be more difficult to remove than your average plastic model, at least you aren't having to resculpt the model like that Cyberwolf.

Same with breaking, my FW stuff has got a bit of flex to it so tends not to break. I have a bunch of Aeronautica Imperialis stuff, if FW resin was as delicate as finecast I never would have bought it.

I have had some FW miscasts, but they are genuinely miscasts, usually the 2 halves of the mould weren't lined up, or an area which is really thin has a chunk missing, or warping is quite common but fixable. Where as GW finecast seems bad by design.

Unless they've changed, FW uses a more traditional resin casting method, silicone moulds, the resin is poured in and placed under a vacuum to git rid of the bubbles. You end up with 1 big chunk of resin you have to remove where it was poured in. GW finecast as far as I can see is some sort of injection casting, I assume they were trying to increase automation and use machinery more similar to plastic casting rather than the FW method that requires a lot of manual work from semi-skilled workers. That's why they come on sprues and I'm guessing the injection process leaves little recourse for removing bubbles, hence you get many small tabs you have to remove (they're hoping bubbles accumulate in the tabs rather that on the model itself) rather than FW with their 1 gigantic tab (bubbles are removed by careful pouring and application of a vacuum which draws them in to the 1 big tab).

TL;DR: FW resin can definitely be harder to work with than plastic, but it doesn't have the same issues finecast has, I wouldn't let your finecast experience put you off FW if there's a FW model you like.

There's a reason people call it failcast, finecrap, failcrap, etc.... it needs to be separated from the resin everyone else uses. I've recently bought resin upgrade parts for model aircraft and they are a nightmare to work with, but they STILL don't have the same issues finecast has with bubbles and whatnot.

@skink -- I think the models pictured at the top would be representative of what typical Forgeworld resin looks like, in terms of gates, flash, and the need for remediation.

For example, where the back waist armor plate meets the upper thigh -- that's the kind of thing that isn't uncommon at all. It isn't "fixable" just buy clipping off the excess resin; you have to cut the shape of the striated leg armor, and possibly use some GS afterwards, if you want it to look the way the original sculptor intended. Also, where the two halves of the wolf meet, a bunch of GS and sculpting will probably be required to make that look worthy of the $20+ model. Looking at the second photo (of the wolf), the amount of flash to clean on an FW model is pretty comparable, I think.

The last set of Rhino doors I got from FW (Blood Angels) had about 3-4 bubbles on every wing. So something like 50+ bubbles to fix on each door. Crazy. Yet, a second set of doors that was shipped at the same time were perfect, so go figure.

The real difference between FC and FW resin to me, living not in the UK, is that on FC models, I could inspect them, and simply buy the best cast one, or not buy the model at all. With FW, I have to contact Customer Service, get new pieces shipped out, and all that kind of thing. Now, if you're getting web order and so on, yeah, it's really no difference, other than that in your region, it might be quicker/easier to get a GW replacement than FW. For me, getting an FW replacement often means paying UPS $10 + 12% tax on the declared value >.<

It's not all bad, though.

Because the resin bits are cast either individually or on small trees, you see much more varied angles than plastic sprues,(excluding expensive characters) allow, where it's necessary to cast them in a way that optimizes sprue and packing space. This means that it's *possible* to have better places to chop things in up, and more optimal angles. I find that's the case more often on the newer FW models than the older ones. Plus, resin often allows super-crisp fine details (though fragile), so you can get really nice power cables that look awesome when painted, for example.

Also, it's worth pointing out that a lot of FW models are a mix of plastic and resin (using some GW parts), which can be nice -- in some cases, you have a plastic skeleton or structure, on top of which you place resin plates that are more ornate.

I don't necessarily think resin (FW/FC) is worse; it's just different, and more time consuming -- a bit of an exercise in patience, at times.

 Talys wrote:
@skink -- I think the models pictured at the top would be representative of what typical Forgeworld resin looks like, in terms of gates, flash, and the need for remediation.

For example, where the back waist armor plate meets the upper thigh -- that's the kind of thing that isn't uncommon at all. It isn't "fixable" just buy clipping off the excess resin; you have to cut the shape of the striated leg armor, and possibly use some GS afterwards, if you want it to look the way the original sculptor intended.

I've never come across anything of the sort on any of my FW models. A bit of flash maybe, but that's a lot easier to remove than a thick tab like that.

Granted I haven't bought any FW Space Marines.

Maybe FW has gotten worse since I last bought them if they're putting out junk like that.

Also, where the two halves of the wolf meet, a bunch of GS and sculpting will probably be required to make that look worthy of the $20+ model. Looking at the second photo (of the wolf), the amount of flash to clean on an FW model is pretty comparable, I think.

Well I mentioned the warpage, getting decent joins on resin models can be challenging. Though if you want a seamless join I actually don't find it much harder than plastic.

The flash isn't the big problem on the wold, it's having to resulpt the paw and fur after removing the vent.

The last set of Rhino doors I got from FW (Blood Angels) had about 3-4 bubbles on every wing. So something like 50+ bubbles to fix on each door. Crazy. Yet, a second set of doors that was shipped at the same time were perfect, so go figure.

The difference is bubbles on a FW model is a relatively uncommon flaw (though still too common IMO). If I saw bubbles on a FW model that weren't in very easy to fix places, I'd ask for a replacement and fully expect the replacement to be fine.

Finecast, bubbles are the norm, if you get one without bubbles it's like omgfethingamazing. I am yet to see a finecast model that wasn't festooned with bubbles. I still ask for a replacement if it's an area I can't easily fix, however I fully expect the replacement to also come covered in bubbles and just hope to god it's in areas I can easily fix.

I don't necessarily think resin (FW/FC) is worse; it's just different, and more time consuming -- a bit of an exercise in patience, at times.

I absolutely think FC resin is worse than FW resin. Whether or not it's more time consuming compared to plastic depends on the part and how fussy you are. If you aren't fussy, plastic tends to be quicker. If you are fussy, you're likely going to be spending a lot of time on the plastic anyway and resin isn't much worse.

The resin parts I've been using for model aircraft are terrible because they are brittle and snap easily like the cheap chinese junk resin (compared to FW which is reasonably flexible) and the positioning of gates is often moronic to the point you can't remove parts without damaging, I've never had anything like that from FW though, FW usually put the tabs on the joints so you just need to smooth them out without risking damage to the part itself.

To back up what I'm saying with some pics, let me demonstrate with some examples of what I consider acceptable resin.

First, Forgeworld:



#1 - notice how deformed and not straight the circled corner is. It's easy enough to cut back, but put that into the slot it fits in on the plastic Land Raider side, and it's glaring how mis-fit it is, unless you spend quite a lot of time making it not only straight, but an even-sized gap all around the door (requires milliput work). The little skulls are cast exactly as intended, but those pieces of flash have to be removed.

#2 - Top: I would 100% fix that cape on the recon model. Hard to do? No, but that's some putty and sanding. Bottom: the knee and the leg need a lot of love to fix up. That's a weird lookin' groove in the resin (not intentional) and the knee pad requires a lot of love.

#3 - Those rifles are a mess. Yes, I can make every one perfect. But that's probably an hour for every rifle to get it to 100%; half an hour if I accept slightly sloppy.

Games Workshop Finecast -- these, I consider pretty decent casts. But even so, it's a whole bunch of work more than plastic to get going.



The Sanguinor - this is about as good as I've seen a FC model. But check the thumb, that needs to be fixed. And all that extra resin between the shoulder and the elbow is stuff you don't have to deal with, in plastic.

Vulkan - A wonderful copy. But look at the bottom -- there's a lot of work to do to clean up the bottom of the cape.

I should add: one thing that I "enjoy" about plastic is its predictability. If I build 10 rhino chassis vehicles, they might have some really irritating flaws and deficiencies, but at least they're the same flaws on every copy. For example, I know that I have to fix the front chassis under the headlights. I know the headlights will have a small dimple. I know the mold lines near the vertical exhausts is troublesome. Now, I take 10 resin models of any sort (from GW, I mean), and especially as they get larger, they become increasingly unpredictable as to what might need to be remediated. It could be the back piece of one model, the left side might not fit on another, the guns might be warped on a third, and so on.

So, as a result, my resin models tend to be more one-offs, and my plastic models tend to be more army-ish.