MajorStoffer wrote: GW generally has pretty solid paints, and pigments and the like aren't easy to get a hold of normally, so I'd welcome this.
You can't get Tamiya clear colours (which is what I'm assuming they're the GW equivalent of) in Canada?
Weird.
"Hobbies" in Canada includes hockey, followed by soccer, followed by football, followed by airsoft, followed by everything else.
I think there's one store in all of my city, with some 3 million residents, which might carry tamiya clear.
there just isn't a market for niche products like this; population is too spread out to make physical stores practical in most cases, one or two per large city and that's it, and they do the usual MTG/Warmahordes/GW/Collectibles deal to stay successful, tamiya, which is often associated with traditional modelling/painting rarely appears on their shelves.
I could order something, but paying $5 in shipping or what have you on product not worth much more than that isn't really practical.
Nikilakh Oxide, una lavatura.
Blood for The Blood God, lucido e spesso.
Typhus Corrosion, una lavatura oleosa.
Ryza Dust, un colore da pennello asciutto color arancio brillante.
Nurgle's Rot, una melma verde lucida.
Agrelland Earth, effetto crepitio.
Looks interesting. I've got the Tamiya clears, the Vallejo clears and the Minitaire Ghost Tints but there's always room for more useful paints and "effects" type paints in my collection.
And finally, here are some new colors.
Starting from the left, there are three Technical, the fourth is a Dry and the last two are re-Technical, also there is a whole article dedicated to them. Nikilakh Oxide , a wash. Blood for The Blood God , glossy and thick. Corrosion Typhus , a wash oily. Ryza Dust , a dry brush color to bright orange. Nurgle's Rot , a glossy green slime. Agrelland Earth , crackle effect.
Thanks. I'll skip their dry paint, and look into the "technical" ones. What is "re-technical" Or is it just slightly messy translation meaning "more of the technical"?
Ooooh if that does what i hope it does then it's gonna be really cool.
My sister has some of that crackle nailpolish and i have been dying to use it on a model but it's just to thick to work on a mini. So if this Agrelland Earth is anything like it i'm gonna be wrapped.
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
Bull0 wrote: I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I don't think its so much a fashion, more that people who don't really get the whole idea of "less is more" with weathering seeing some of the wonderful, subtle jobs done by some of the top end painters and thinking "I know how to improve that..."
If the verdigris is good, I might get quite excited as I have a whole bunch of Khorne stuff that I really would like to take the shiny edge of their armour to blend better with my slightly more naturalistic style.
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
Bull0 wrote: I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
They both have their place. Having said as much. That place is not "everywhere". Still, learning to use both effectively is a useful thing for painters.
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I'll take that over tacky NMM any day!
Oh, yeah, that gets overused to hell too.
I agree on all counts.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
I will likely try these out, since I get all GW paints for free anyway.
Hey, some of us don't have too much time to paint and like stuff like that for the quick, acceptable result it gives. What's wrong with that?
Sure, pigment powder inferno is not some place I like to go either but really, could you be more condescending if you tried?
Bolognesus wrote: Hey, some of us don't have too much time to paint and like stuff like that for the quick, acceptable result it gives. What's wrong with that?
Sure, pigment powder inferno is not some place I like to go either but really, could you be more condescending if you tried?
Agreed. How dare people do something they enjoy if they can't also be the best at it? And how dare they use techniques that have been part of the greater model-making community's repertoire for many years in order to get a good looking effect?
Don't let your head disappear up your own backside.
MajorStoffer wrote: GW generally has pretty solid paints, and pigments and the like aren't easy to get a hold of normally, so I'd welcome this.
You can't get Tamiya clear colours (which is what I'm assuming they're the GW equivalent of) in Canada?
Weird.
"Hobbies" in Canada includes hockey, followed by soccer, followed by football, followed by airsoft, followed by everything else.
I think there's one store in all of my city, with some 3 million residents, which might carry tamiya clear.
there just isn't a market for niche products like this; population is too spread out to make physical stores practical in most cases, one or two per large city and that's it, and they do the usual MTG/Warmahordes/GW/Collectibles deal to stay successful, tamiya, which is often associated with traditional modelling/painting rarely appears on their shelves.
I could order something, but paying $5 in shipping or what have you on product not worth much more than that isn't really practical.
You might consider looking at hobby stores as opposed to game stores. You know, the ones with the old guys who sell model trains, planes and automobiles? Weathering, painting and effects on those types of models are still about a decade ahead of where most miniature painters and paint companies are. They are getting better, but you still have a larger selection of better products at a lower price through model suppliers than through game suppliers.
Exactly. Well put, Sean. Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke. (and it's often the same products, repackaged).
I'd also add to that - Art and Craft supply stores are generally the best places to source things like acrylic mediums, acrylic paste, etc that then gets repackaged into smaller versions by Vallejo - and tiny versions by GW.
Hobby tools like Xuron cutters (repackaged by Army Painter) are much cheaper from places that stock beads and such. - My Xuron cutters from eBay have "Xuron" on the blades and "Beadsmith" on the handles. They also cost half of what the Army Painter Xuron cutters go for.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
No, it's actually about old farts being butthurt that some people are inventing new tools and techniques that look equally good but take less effort.
Panic wrote: yeah,
These look very cool and interesting.
I'm gonna buy them all!
Panic...
You do know that you can write Panic...In your signature?Instead of me starting to post a reply to ask why we should panic and then noticing your name?Without you having to type it out every time you post?But anyway on topic:Blood for the blood god is the best paint name ever.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
No, it's actually about old farts being butthurt that some people are inventing new tools and techniques that look equally good but take less effort.
I'm sensing a divide developing between those who aren't keen on the over use of special effects as a substitute for a good paint job (no, everyone doesn't have to be an expert, but a little restraint here and there would improve things remarkably sometimes) and those that feel they are guilty of said practice!
It's all about the delivery of the message. AKA there's simply no need to be elitist or a dick about it. In my opinion, all tools and techniques are valid and have their uses. There's also absolutely no need to be rude when others get a good result for "less work".
Deciding that using X or Y is "too easy" just shows that person as closed-minded, and generally, as a fool. I'd rather be a mediocre painter than a mediocre human in possession of mediocre social skills. I consider myself neither.
Azazelx wrote: It's all about the delivery of the message. AKA there's simply no need to be elitist or a dick about it. In my opinion, all tools and techniques are valid and have their uses. There's also absolutely no need to be rude when others get a good result for "less work".
Deciding that using X or Y is "too easy" just shows that person as closed-minded, and generally, as a fool. I'd rather be a mediocre painter than a mediocre human in possession of mediocre social skills. I consider myself neither.
See, I didn't get that message at all, I saw a few people (myself included) comment on some trends and techniques they didn't particularly like on a model, and a number of people apparently taking offence at that. Nowhere have I seen anyone say "if you use these you are a bad painter, and a lazy person, and should feel ashamed" but the reactions seem to be as though they did.
Frankly, I'm all for labour saving, if what I want to achieve looks to need a disproportionate of time, I'll often look for a cheat or revise my plan altogether!
Dipping is cheating. Washing is cheating. Airbrushing is cheating. Anyone who's ever taken a peek at the Painting subsection has seen these threads coming up since at least the mid 2000s. I guess we can add weathering powders to the list now that they've become widely available. They were just fine as long as only "experts" had access to them.
sing your life wrote: I don't really care how an effect was achieved as long as it looks good.
Me too, and if I can do it quicker then all the better, sometimes I don't have time to try and replicate the Sistine Chapel ceiling on a LR interior every weekend unfortunately.
lord_blackfang wrote: Dipping is cheating. Washing is cheating. Airbrushing is cheating. Anyone who's ever taken a peek at the Painting subsection has seen these threads coming up since at least the mid 2000s. I guess we can add weathering powders to the list now that they've become widely available. They were just fine as long as only "experts" had access to them.
Perhaps you can explain to me where this accusation of cheating is coming from? (Not a loaded question, honest request)
All I've seen is people expressing a dislike for the over use of a technique or applying excessive amounts of some sort of technical aid in order to try and mask a poor job (and, IMO, frequently make it look worse by doing so)
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
I don't think people "play" with model trains in the first place. But still, why would you buy extremely overpriced GW products when they are in fact just rebranded and repacked products of other companies?
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I'll take that over tacky NMM any day!
Oh, yeah, that gets overused to hell too.
I agree on all counts.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
I believe this is the post which is causing the contention. Emphasis mine on the part which can be seen to be inferred as saying those who use "Tamiya Clear, pigment powders or wash-heavy rust colours" are below average to mediocre painters trying to achieve an effect without "learning a technique", which I have to assume is the longhand way of doing it.
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
There's two places that sell model train to the people who "play" them in the central business district of Melbourne, and one a few Ks away in the opposite direction from where I live. So I guess those three all near me must be it for the entirety of Australia?
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
What's making me chortle at your comment is that you're writing from, I believe, Germany, the Mecca of model railroading. There's a German store for everything one could ever wish for in 1:87 scale.
RoninXiC wrote: I don't think people "play" with model trains in the first place. But still, why would you buy extremely overpriced GW products when they are in fact just rebranded and repacked products of other companies?
well there's not many supplies that you can pick up in town on the way to work. I don't mind paying a premium for paints if it means i can pop into a shop, talk to a staffer about what colours i want to use, see what the paints look like on actual models etc.
That only applies to paint though. All their other supplies are far to expensive and usually crappy.
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I'll take that over tacky NMM any day!
Oh, yeah, that gets overused to hell too.
I agree on all counts.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
I believe this is the post which is causing the contention. Emphasis mine on the part which can be seen to be inferred as saying those who use "Tamiya Clear, pigment powders or wash-heavy rust colours" are below average to mediocre painters trying to achieve an effect without "learning a technique", which I have to assume is the longhand way of doing it.
I completely disagree there is no such thing as cheating in painting,you might like the long way to go about a particular effect,but if someone can do similar by thinking outside the box,it is just that a different technique.
Back in the day no one used acrylics only enamels,are you cheating by using acrylic?
No your not.
The main thing is if you are enjoying yourself,then do what works for you.
Oh, for sure. I also think it's worth bearing in mind not every model is a competition entry, and anything that lets you achieve an eye-catching effect fast on large groups of models is a Good Thing.
lord_blackfang wrote: Dipping is cheating. Washing is cheating. Airbrushing is cheating. Anyone who's ever taken a peek at the Painting subsection has seen these threads coming up since at least the mid 2000s. I guess we can add weathering powders to the list now that they've become widely available. They were just fine as long as only "experts" had access to them.
Perhaps you can explain to me where this accusation of cheating is coming from? (Not a loaded question, honest request)
All I've seen is people expressing a dislike for the over use of a technique or applying excessive amounts of some sort of technical aid in order to try and mask a poor job (and, IMO, frequently make it look worse by doing so)
What LadyCassandra said. And I wouldn't have posted at all if this had been an isolated incident but these kinds of posts come up again and again. I can't help but think that some elitist hobbyists feel threatened by the new generation being able to achieve good results in less time and claim that good paintjobs somehow "don't count" if they're not done in the traditional manner.
Largeblastmarker wrote: looks awesome. the copper rust will be great for scenery painters methinks.
I should hope not - at least not at GW prices for paints. A trip to your local craft store will yield dozens of options which cost half as much and provide 5 times the material for the same effect - especially on things like terrain. Using GW paints in order to do terrain...well, it is a bit like just taking money out of your wallet and lighting it on fire.
Even with just using the weathering effects, I ended up using (3) 2 ounce bottles of verdigris to weather a single steam punk refinery that I did this past summer. I bought all three bottles for $5 or so. Doing the same with the GW version of that would likely cost upwards of $30. Doesn't sound like much - but if you get into building terrain, all those nickels and dimes add up really quick when you are buying plastic tube, sheet, fittings, couple metal castings, 1/4 sheet of plywood, foam...
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
I'd guess it to be about the same size market as the number of people who "play" with toy soldiers - probably even a little higher based on anecdotal evidence like the number of print magazines which support that hobby versus this one (I currently subscribe to 8 different ones and that is only a fraction of them).
Regular hobby stores are more common in the US than regular game stores from my experience. Most game related retailers tend to be tacked on to a regular hobby store or a regular comic book store in order to expand their customer base - but it tends to be a fraction of the whole store as opposed to a majority. However, I don't recall the time I was in a town with less than 50,000 people or so that I wasn't able to find a hobby store that had finescale models as its focus (both model railroads and static models).
Back in the day no one used acrylics only enamels,are you cheating by using acrylic?
No your not.
And, strangely enough - back in the day (not quite as many days back though) - no one used enamels and oils, they only used acrylics. Now everyone and their brother seems to have "discovered" that enamels and oils are outstanding for doing washes, weathering and glazes (still hands down the best paints for doing flesh).
Most people seem to miss that all the various tools are effective and don't speak to the level of skill of the person using them. The important thing is the end result. It is sort of like the hand tool snobs who I bump into with one of my other hobbies who seem to think that a piece of furniture is better because it was entirely done with hand tools and they didn't use a table saw to rip the wood down or things like planers or jointers to surface it. In the end, the only way that you can tell the difference between the two when done well is that the one done only with hand tools is less perfect.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
No, it's actually about old farts being butthurt that some people are inventing new tools and techniques that look equally good but take less effort.
Not so much inventing - rather looking at any of the finescale modeling outlets (take a look at the Osprey Modeling Masterclass books and compare them to the Forge World et. al. inventions...many of those Osprey books are 20+ years old too).
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
What's making me chortle at your comment is that you're writing from, I believe, Germany, the Mecca of model railroading. There's a German store for everything one could ever wish for in 1:87 scale.
And every brick and mortar store I ever bought model railroad things in, doesn't exist anymore. Most boys now play computer, only a few sentimental old folks left, not enough to support a local store. Even the flagship magazine of USA, the Model Railroader, is only a shade of its former glory, less than half its page count than a few years ago.
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
What's making me chortle at your comment is that you're writing from, I believe, Germany, the Mecca of model railroading. There's a German store for everything one could ever wish for in 1:87 scale.
And every brick and mortar store I ever bought model railroad things in, doesn't exist anymore. Most boys now play computer, only a few sentimental old folks left, not enough to support a local store. Even the flagship magazine of USA, the Model Railroader, is only a shade of its former glory, less than half its page count than a few years ago.
I think it must partly be local to you, in my local town there are two railway modelling stores, one exclusively railroad only, and another couple within 15 mins or so drive.
Wargaming wise, the nearest store that isn't a GW's or sell exclusively GW stuff, is an hour away.
Azazelx wrote: Woodland Scenics water products and the like are easily found in model and train stores - and in quantities that make game store products look like a joke.
Too bad noone plays model train anymore so that only a few mail order stores per continent survive.
What's making me chortle at your comment is that you're writing from, I believe, Germany, the Mecca of model railroading. There's a German store for everything one could ever wish for in 1:87 scale.
And every brick and mortar store I ever bought model railroad things in, doesn't exist anymore. Most boys now play computer, only a few sentimental old folks left, not enough to support a local store. Even the flagship magazine of USA, the Model Railroader, is only a shade of its former glory, less than half its page count than a few years ago.
Same here: railway store 3 miles out, 8 miles out, 10 miles out, and two of them about 15 miles out. This is just the ones I know about mind you; haven't really gone looking for them. This contrasts with two GW stores each about 8 to 10 miles out and two FLGSs, 10 and 15 miles out respectively. Now I'm pretty sure I'd know about anything wargaming-related; I'm also pretty sure I don't know the half of it when it comes to (primarily) model train stores.
What you have to remember is that, while the crowd that buys into it might be relatively small, those rail hobby stores have two advantages demographically: first of all, the average model rail hobbyist is flat-out rich compared to the average wargamer. We have to ponder spending anything over €50 quite seriously; the few times I've been in there for something scenery or paint related I've seen guys drop down €500+ on a whim on, even in my wargaming-weathered opinion, fantastically small amounts of stuff. Go into one of these stores. Look at the larger scale wagons (even the ones without any fancy electronics, or whatever): four-figure prices. Easy. And those buggers seemingly sell pretty well. Secondly: it's a relatively old demographic who really don't take to online shopping as much as we do, seemingly. Also, a lot in the way of conversion and detailing kits seems to be sold in those model rail stores (not sure, not my hobby - perhaps Sean who seems to know a lot about this could chime in?) which is the kind of boutique/conversionbitz stuff we'd order online as well.
So while I'm not contesting your assertion that group is smaller than we are, as a group (although I think that including the less fanatical hobbyists there are probably surprisingly many guys splurging on that stuff, if only because they can now afford the hyper-high-end-super-de-luxe versions of the toys they'd long for, but often didn't have all that much of, as kids), I would say the amount actually spent at such stores per customer is much, much higher. In fact I recall someone at a store which does predominantly rail stuff, but also some scale modeling and a little bit of RC telling me that basically that train stuff is really so much easier to actually make a living on than the few plastic models and bottles of paint he could sell to me that I'm sure there's enough cash to be made there
...I mean, just look at that article Sean posted while I was typing this up: one click onwards I found an H0 scale locomotive, seemingly quite mainstream brand: MSRP $279,95. That's a 1:100 model - H0 isn't one of the bigger scales AFAIK - , and you're going to buy a few cars to tug along behind that. Really, what we do is utterly cheap in comparison
Largeblastmarker wrote: looks awesome. the copper rust will be great for scenery painters methinks.
I should hope not - at least not at GW prices for paints. A trip to your local craft store will yield dozens of options which cost half as much and provide 5 times the material for the same effect - especially on things like terrain. Using GW paints in order to do terrain...well, it is a bit like just taking money out of your wallet and lighting it on fire.
Even with just using the weathering effects, I ended up using (3) 2 ounce bottles of verdigris to weather a single steam punk refinery that I did this past summer. I bought all three bottles for $5 or so. Doing the same with the GW version of that would likely cost upwards of $30. Doesn't sound like much - but if you get into building terrain, all those nickels and dimes add up really quick when you are buying plastic tube, sheet, fittings, couple metal castings, 1/4 sheet of plywood, foam...
Sean - could you please link the verdigris product that you used? (and some pics of your refinery as well, if possible?) I have the Vallejo one but don't really like it, so I tend to mix washes from paint, which is fine for individual models, but I'm open to anything that works for scenery.
Back in the day no one used acrylics only enamels,are you cheating by using acrylic?
No your not.
And, strangely enough - back in the day (not quite as many days back though) - no one used enamels and oils, they only used acrylics. Now everyone and their brother seems to have "discovered" that enamels and oils are outstanding for doing washes, weathering and glazes (still hands down the best paints for doing flesh).
Most people seem to miss that all the various tools are effective and don't speak to the level of skill of the person using them. The important thing is the end result. It is sort of like the hand tool snobs who I bump into with one of my other hobbies who seem to think that a piece of furniture is better because it was entirely done with hand tools and they didn't use a table saw to rip the wood down or things like planers or jointers to surface it. In the end, the only way that you can tell the difference between the two when done well is that the one done only with hand tools is less perfect.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
No, it's actually about old farts being butthurt that some people are inventing new tools and techniques that look equally good but take less effort.
Not so much inventing - rather looking at any of the finescale modeling outlets (take a look at the Osprey Modeling Masterclass books and compare them to the Forge World et. al. inventions...many of those Osprey books are 20+ years old too).
One of the main differences with many "new products" is that places like MIG and Vallejo and AK Interactive are producing "made for modelling" products that are specifically created (or chosen, or just repackaged) for the scale modelling community - which in turn slowly filter through to the miniatures painting/wargaming hobby fraternity. They're being made more accessable rather than just for the (self-delusional, self-appointed) "elite" which makes them butthurt. In videos by Mig Jimiez, he talks about how his "specially chosen" mineral spirits that he recommends and sells is much "gentler" to the paint than the stuff you'd find at a hardware store. And it probably is, but you know, marketing. At least he does say "use whatever you want" with the caveat.
Dipping has been done for years and years, using Miniwax/Wattyl wood stains/etc from the hardware store but has now filtered down to "Army Painter" dipping products. When I started messing around with powders, you went to the art supplies and bought a bunch of pastel chalks, then ground them up. Now you can buy ready-made weathering powders from more than a dozen companies, including GW's Forgeworld arm. Acrylic Modelling paste in a variety of textures? Wet palette? Drying retarder? Surface Tension Breaker? All from Art supply stores, now remade or repackaged for "us". Ready-made oil washes? Same deal. Even the use of inks is kind of coming full circle. GW used to sell model inks, and my group of painters used those and supplemented them with Windsor & Newton ones from the Art stores. They morphed, first into washes to save gamers the trouble of diluting them (and probably saved GW on ink costs!) which became their own thing with new formulas for suspension fluids to make the pigment behave differently, but of course "elite" painters still use proper inks, which seem to be starting to make inroads back into the hobby...
Largeblastmarker wrote: looks awesome. the copper rust will be great for scenery painters methinks.
I should hope not - at least not at GW prices for paints. A trip to your local craft store will yield dozens of options which cost half as much and provide 5 times the material for the same effect - especially on things like terrain. Using GW paints in order to do terrain...well, it is a bit like just taking money out of your wallet and lighting it on fire.
Even with just using the weathering effects, I ended up using (3) 2 ounce bottles of verdigris to weather a single steam punk refinery that I did this past summer. I bought all three bottles for $5 or so. Doing the same with the GW version of that would likely cost upwards of $30. Doesn't sound like much - but if you get into building terrain, all those nickels and dimes add up really quick when you are buying plastic tube, sheet, fittings, couple metal castings, 1/4 sheet of plywood, foam...
I meant for like a small statue, or the roof of a building or something. I shudder to imagine the cost of painting a game-board with 4.00$ 12 ml pots of acrylic paint. *shudder*
What's making me chortle at your comment is that you're writing from, I believe, Germany, the Mecca of model railroading. There's a German store for everything one could ever wish for in 1:87 scale.
And every brick and mortar store I ever bought model railroad things in, doesn't exist anymore. Most boys now play computer, only a few sentimental old folks left, not enough to support a local store. Even the flagship magazine of USA, the Model Railroader, is only a shade of its former glory, less than half its page count than a few years ago.
Imagine how bad it is in other countries. In Finland, I reckon there's under 50 hobbyists left, and the number keeps dwindling as the old die off and the youngest people interested are in their 60s.
Agamemnon2 wrote: Imagine how bad it is in other countries. In Finland, I reckon there's under 50 hobbyists left, and the number keeps dwindling as the old die off and the youngest people interested are in their 60s.
I'm not sure that i should have laughed at that, but i did.
Agamemnon2 wrote: Imagine how bad it is in other countries. In Finland, I reckon there's under 50 hobbyists left, and the number keeps dwindling as the old die off and the youngest people interested are in their 60s.
I'm not sure that i should have laughed at that, but i did.
There but for the grace of God goes miniatures wargaming.
Bolognesus wrote: Hey, some of us don't have too much time to paint and like stuff like that for the quick, acceptable result it gives. What's wrong with that? Sure, pigment powder inferno is not some place I like to go either but really, could you be more condescending if you tried?
Agreed. How dare people do something they enjoy if they can't also be the best at it? And how dare they use techniques that have been part of the greater model-making community's repertoire for many years in order to get a good looking effect?
Don't let your head disappear up your own backside.
How dare one express a personal distaste for a particular style or technique on a wargames discussion forum?
What's making me chortle at your comment is that you're writing from, I believe, Germany, the Mecca of model railroading. There's a German store for everything one could ever wish for in 1:87 scale.
And every brick and mortar store I ever bought model railroad things in, doesn't exist anymore. Most boys now play computer, only a few sentimental old folks left, not enough to support a local store. Even the flagship magazine of USA, the Model Railroader, is only a shade of its former glory, less than half its page count than a few years ago.
Imagine how bad it is in other countries. In Finland, I reckon there's under 50 hobbyists left, and the number keeps dwindling as the old die off and the youngest people interested are in their 60s.
It's comments like these that make me realise how lucky we appear to be in the UK with the availability of Hobby shops. Here in Plymouth we have the GW, Antics (Wargames, cardgames, model railway, military models RC cars), Giant's Lair (various wargames and massive playing area) plus several other model shops that cater for all tastes. Even Toys are Us caters for Hornby enthusiasts!
Bolognesus wrote: Hey, some of us don't have too much time to paint and like stuff like that for the quick, acceptable result it gives. What's wrong with that?
Sure, pigment powder inferno is not some place I like to go either but really, could you be more condescending if you tried?
Agreed. How dare people do something they enjoy if they can't also be the best at it? And how dare they use techniques that have been part of the greater model-making community's repertoire for many years in order to get a good looking effect?
Don't let your head disappear up your own backside.
How dare one express a personal distaste for a particular style or technique on a wargames discussion forum?
Sorry - fail! Straw man argument, mate.
Case in point, I don't personally like NMM or Zenithal highlighting via spray cans/airbrushes but I don't piss on people who use or like them, and can still appreciate the artistry, effort and effectiveness of those who do use them. I'm happy for anyone to use whatever techniques they like. I'm not happy when people act like elitists or dicks towards or about people who dare use a method they "don't approve of" or use insulting or derogatory terms about people who might use other techniques with bs terms such as "mediocre painters".
Azazelx wrote: Sorry - fail! Straw man argument, mate....
It's not a straw man argument at all, though. I was just expressing that I don't personally care for those techniques much, particularly how common they seem to be at the moment, and you took issue with that. If anything, you really clearly went straw man when you put words in the mouths of people who expressed a personal distaste for the technique to the tune of:
Azazelx wrote: How dare people do something they enjoy if they can't also be the best at it? And how dare they use techniques that have been part of the greater model-making community's repertoire for many years in order to get a good looking effect?
Nobody said that. So, yeah. Straw man. While we're at it, you don't get to call us condescending when you throw that patronising thumbs-up thing in there. Or tell us we're "up our own backsides". Seriously! Get real.
*Edit* Unless, of course, you weren't really directing it at me. No persecution complex here, no sir...
Well I identified with the people that were a bit negative about the use of NMM, one of my first posts in the thread was about that. But yeah, I think some other people were a bit more outwardly critical of people that use them after that, and that's probably who he's going after - ironically, I probably let those posts wash over me a bit because I don't agree with the thought process, but then when Azazelx started going after them I still felt the need to be defensive. Apologies @ me!
What LadyCassandra said. And I wouldn't have posted at all if this had been an isolated incident but these kinds of posts come up again and again. I can't help but think that some elitist hobbyists feel threatened by the new generation being able to achieve good results in less time and claim that good paintjobs somehow "don't count" if they're not done in the traditional manner.
Laughs, I guess it's just that when someone has been perfecting their blending a long time and gotten kudos from it, the 'sudden' appearance of airbrushing makes smooth blends more mundane, and the skilled brush blender doesn't stand out anymore. But the truth is, if you are good with blending with a brush, no-one can take that away from you - you still have a skill that other people don't, and can pull off things that they can't.
I think a good artist is always looking to expand his technique toolbox, in that sense getting new tools like an airbrush are welcome things to most people. Personally, I think there is no such thing as 'cheating' when it comes to creating art - the end result is what counts, and if you can figure out an easier way to pull the result off, more kudos for you.
lord_blackfang wrote: Dipping is cheating. Washing is cheating. Airbrushing is cheating. Anyone who's ever taken a peek at the Painting subsection has seen these threads coming up since at least the mid 2000s. I guess we can add weathering powders to the list now that they've become widely available. They were just fine as long as only "experts" had access to them.
Perhaps you can explain to me where this accusation of cheating is coming from? (Not a loaded question, honest request)
All I've seen is people expressing a dislike for the over use of a technique or applying excessive amounts of some sort of technical aid in order to try and mask a poor job (and, IMO, frequently make it look worse by doing so)
What LadyCassandra said. And I wouldn't have posted at all if this had been an isolated incident but these kinds of posts come up again and again. I can't help but think that some elitist hobbyists feel threatened by the new generation being able to achieve good results in less time and claim that good paintjobs somehow "don't count" if they're not done in the traditional manner.
I can attest to this.
I show people how to do "10 minute tyranids, orks and guardsmen" tricks that look better then what some people put hours into, and I usually get that "that feels wrong" or "that's too easy".
Bull0 wrote: Well I identified with the people that were a bit negative about the use of NMM, one of my first posts in the thread was about that. But yeah, I think some other people were a bit more outwardly critical of people that use them after that, and that's probably who he's going after - ironically, I probably let those posts wash over me a bit because I don't agree with the thought process, but then when Azazelx started going after them I still felt the need to be defensive. Apologies @ me!
My issue was entirely with this poster, his elitist attitude and the derisive language he chose to use about other people for no good reason: (see bolded)
I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I'll take that over tacky NMM any day!
Oh, yeah, that gets overused to hell too.
I agree on all counts.
A lot of that is just a below average, to mediocre painter's way of achieving a "cool" effect without actually trying to learn a technique. So they slop on Tamiya Clear, pigment powders, or wash-heavy rust colors.
I will likely try these out, since I get all GW paints for free anyway.
Essentially an attack on many, many painters and hobbyists, from a rather douchey and ignorant perspective.
Since he's been demonstrated as simply being wrong a number of times in the thread, with the discussion on the origins and use of different techniques and materials across not only our wargaming hobby, but the wider modelling/railway/art hobbies as well, it seemed odd that you chose to jump to his defence as I had no issue with your posts (expressing aesthetic opinion on techniques). But once attacked, I obviously responded in kind. As I've stated, some of the "new" techniques aren't my cup of tea either, though as I said I don't feel the need to piss on people who use, say, zenithal highlighting.
If that's an apology from you, then I accept - and we can now link arms and skip into the sunset together. If not - we can resume telling one another to go to heck.
Bull0 wrote: I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
huge patches of poorly done airbrushing over half the model for "OSL" is even better.
Great, I love the effects we get to use these days, if these paints improve the fun people have in the creative side of the hobby and allow them to produce a standard they can be proud of when playing the games, that's wonderful!
We all paint to different abilities and have time scales. I'm an ok painter but will never be amazing or anywhere close but I really get loads of satisfaction from setting a model down and a family member saying that's really good how did you do that?? If that's achieved by a fancy paint I really don't care!
In order they are:
- Nihkakh Oxides - Technical (Verigris)
- Blood for the Blood God - Technical (Blood)
- Typhus Corrosion - Technical (Used for aging metal and other surfaces with built up oil and muck)
- Ryza Rust - Dry (Rust)
- Nurgle's Rot - Technical (Pus, Acid, Poison)
- Agrelian Earth - Technical (Cracks when it dries, used to make cracked earth bases)
My family have had horses longer than they've had me, and having grown up around them, I'm particularly sensitive to anything in an equine sculpt that is "wrong."
While horses do that, they do it to draw air over a sensitive part of their scent organ to get a "closer look" at a new, strong or interesting smell.
They do not do that when supposedly galloping flat out and carrying a rider!
They bite too, but again, it would be completely bizarre to have them doing that while at full tilt.
Edit: Fun Fact: If sufficiently experienced, one can tell the age of a horse with remarkable accuracy by their teeth!
Knockagh wrote: Great, I love the effects we get to use these days, if these paints improve the fun people have in the creative side of the hobby and allow them to produce a standard they can be proud of when playing the games, that's wonderful!
We all paint to different abilities and have time scales. I'm an ok painter but will never be amazing or anywhere close but I really get loads of satisfaction from setting a model down and a family member saying that's really good how did you do that?? If that's achieved by a fancy paint I really don't care!
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azreal13 wrote: My family have had horses longer than they've had me, and having grown up around them, I'm particularly sensitive to anything in an equine sculpt that is "wrong."
I actually don't mind them at all. In the context of being Dark Elf steeds, so there's essentially something "wrong" with them.
In order they are:
- Nihkakh Oxides - Technical (Verigris)
- Blood for the Blood God - Technical (Blood)
- Typhus Corrosion - Technical (Used for aging metal and other surfaces with built up oil and muck)
- Ryza Rust - Dry (Rust)
- Nurgle's Rot - Technical (Pus, Acid, Poison)
- Agrelian Earth - Technical (Cracks when it dries, used to make cracked earth bases)
azreal13 wrote: My family have had horses longer than they've had me, and having grown up around them, I'm particularly sensitive to anything in an equine sculpt that is "wrong."
I actually don't mind them at all. In the context of being Dark Elf steeds, so there's essentially something "wrong" with them.
I wouldn't object to flat out "wrong" these are too close to real, so to my eye they look....incorrect?
But enough with the horse beavers, if anyone is keen to continue the discussion, I'll meet you over in the DE thread.
xruslanx wrote: Stop the press, GW have models that are anotomically innacurate!
I have never encountered a more binary personality in my life. It appears we have found yet another subject you aren't either capable of understanding, or willing to allow for any sort of nuance.
...And knowing GW, the complete set will not be cheaper than the six paints separate either. Or have I missed something which actually makes that complete set interesting?
Is this going to be like the Edge paints? where GW tried to market paints that they had missed in their new line as a new tool that will make your painting awesome?
The Edge paints were just light colours, that they had released already in drybrushing formulations, but not as actually useful paints. They managed to extend the range to a huge number of paints, and missed those 9 quite important shades. (hence their uber new line of paints was incomplete on day 1)
The mega paint set won't actually contain all the paints.
In Nov WD it doesn't say it contains any dry paints (could be a misprint, though) and it contain a limited number of technical paints (the 3 most used... So probably the 3 current technical paints)
It contains all the other paints from what I can tell, though
hehe no intentions of buying a mega paint set from Citadel ever tbh!
I like the paints... but dont need every colour, dry paints were pretty useless, the line NEEDED the Edge paints from day 1, theyre not for edge highlights atall, theyre just lighter colours, which was massively lacking in the line to start with. (still is a bit tbh)
When they want to push a painting style that means all your colours come premixed.. it wouldve been clever to include a wide range of colours and tones.... which they suprisingly didnt manage to pull off with over 200( lol 144 I like to exagerate) shades ! lol!
Shows how much thought went into it they dropped the line that the Eavy Metal team requested them... yeah right, they took the piss cus your dev team forgot incredibly important parts of the line! Curious about these new pots... wondering what was missed out this time.
Maybe they will flesh out the glaze colours next when they realise that people are having to buy artists inks and make their own washes/glazes in a wider range of colours than they offer.
The mega-paint set is indeed the 144 paint set from last year, with cardboard box, so the full first release set including dry paints, for only 377,00 €.
angelofvengeance wrote: Does anyone actually know when these are coming out? They're in the new WD but there's no release date?
Page 50 of the latest issue says released on 2nd November unless other wise noted. It's not noted for the paints, so I´d hope they are in store this weekend.
I have some of the FW weathering pigments - they are fantastic. You can turn a mediocre paint job into something heavily weathered (it can be used to mask your lack of technical skill).
I"m very interested to see how these new citadel paints match up. The blood interests me the most as I find it difficult to create "blood" without it looking rather flat.
richred_uk wrote: Page 50 of the latest issue says released on 2nd November unless other wise noted. It's not noted for the paints, so I´d hope they are in store this weekend.
Any GW stockist can confirm that they won't have the paints this weekend.
Well these were released today so I picked up all but the blood effects one (no need with plenty of Tamiya Red left)
the rest look promising and I'll have a go with them tomorrow
I was warned in store that the Agrellan Earth which is a crackle paint was a bit tricky to get working (to cold in store?) so I'll be interested to see how it goes
I'm probably going to pick up three or four of them tomorrow, if I can be arsed to walk into town.
I think anyone who was in any doubt of GW's target market these days need only watch the tutorial videos, I appreciate they're going to aim them as broad as possible, but being told "to put newspaper down in case I made a mess" made me feel so patronised it was funny!
MajorStoffer wrote: I think there's one store in all of my city, with some 3 million residents, which might carry tamiya clear.
there just isn't a market for niche products like this; population is too spread out to make physical stores practical in most cases, one or two per large city and that's it, and they do the usual MTG/Warmahordes/GW/Collectibles deal to stay successful, tamiya, which is often associated with traditional modelling/painting rarely appears on their shelves.
I could order something, but paying $5 in shipping or what have you on product not worth much more than that isn't really practical.
Is that Vancouver you're talking about? Moved away a few years back, but Magic Box Hobbies (Arbutus and 37th) had Tamiya paints when I last went there:
http://www.magicboxhobbies.net/
They focus on scale model planes, but have an interesting overall selection.
I'd expect Imperial Hobbies to have Tamiya (or at least be able to order it in).
Central Hobbies is pretty much the best train modelling shop (right around the corner from Connections on Renfrew). I'd say there's a good chance that they have Tamiya there, though I never explicitly looked for it.
http://www.central-hobbies.com/
If you're not in Vancouver (Montreal?), then I'd expect there to be a few hobby shops that aren't wargaming focused.
Bull0 wrote: I really dislike the current fashion for all metal to either be caked in incredibly bright orange rust or green verdigris stuff. Doubtless I'll wind up getting these anyway.
I don't think its so much a fashion, more that people who don't really get the whole idea of "less is more" with weathering seeing some of the wonderful, subtle jobs done by some of the top end painters and thinking "I know how to improve that..."
Happens a lot with OSL too, sadly. OSL went from somebody saying "Wouldn't it be cool if this looked like it was glowing?" to models running around with a giant beacon in the dark.
Typhus Corrosion (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nN1tu4pSSig&feature=youtu.be) note you really want the micro-particles in the paint to transfer to the model so working with the very tip of the brush is not much good, so I'd suggest using this fairly crudely then fixing any mistakes by overpainting with colour on a fine brush
You can not do a thin layer like you would with normal paints. This technical paint requires a thick layer in order to get the effect to work. I also used a hair dryer on low to help speed up the drying (The GW video said to wait a hour for normal drying), with that it took about 5 minutes. Here is the result of the one base I've tried it on so far.
I got some blood for the blood god, ryzax rust, and the corrosion one that goes with ryzax rust, so far I've just used the blood for the blood god with some nice results.
Looks like it's the UK batches that are messing up. One of the lads who I game with tried it thick, thin, base coated, straight on plastic etc but they all came out the same. Just a brown base with no cracks
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Niexist wrote: I got some blood for the blood god, ryzax rust, and the corrosion one that goes with ryzax rust, so far I've just used the blood for the blood god with some nice results.
What's the end result like?
I usually use Tamiya clear red with nuln oil 70/30 to achieve a glossy, deep blood red finish. Are these any good?
I played with a few of these the other day, other than the cracking effect none of them seemed like anything you couldn't do with the same colour paint, a glaze and water.
Not bad since you have it all pre made for you but I wouldn't buy any of it over vejlleo (no idea how to spell that without a pot in front of me :/).
I make no claim to be a great painter, but here are my results.
Here is my first use of blood for the blood god on belials sword, I'm still trying to figure the best way to apply it with blunt weapons like thunder hammers.
Here is the usage of the other 2 that are meant to be used together, the corrosion and rust. I maybe over did it with the rust a bit, let me know what you think.
Any suggestions are appreciated, but I think these are very cool and once again help us noobish painters to add something awesome looking.
I plan on trying a few ways to keep it set. I've seen people already trying PVA glue mixed with water for good results. Going to try dull coat too, see which holds up better. It seemed pretty sturdy on its own for a display model, but for a gaming model it will definitely need a coat of something to hold it on.
BrotherVord wrote: I really like the base cracking effect but I question how sturdy that would be, it seems like it would be very brittle.
Planning on picking up some of the blood technical this week for my forgeworld bloodthirster that I'm nearly finished with
Im in that same boat, I know how to do burn effect make up art on people with corn starch and after a while it just flakes right off. Plus, they never try and highlight it, it just looks bland.
Niexist wrote: I make no claim to be a great painter, but here are my results.
Here is my first use of blood for the blood god on belials sword, I'm still trying to figure the best way to apply it with blunt weapons like thunder hammers.
Spoiler:
Here is the usage of the other 2 that are meant to be used together, the corrosion and rust. I maybe over did it with the rust a bit, let me know what you think.
Spoiler:
Any suggestions are appreciated, but I think these are very cool and once again help us noobish painters to add something awesome looking.
The blood is looking good! Thanks for the pics, it's appreciated. I like that 'fresh' quality it has to it, and the rust looks great, too. I'm hoping the Nihilakh Oxide works well
Niexist wrote: I make no claim to be a great painter, but here are my results.
Here is my first use of blood for the blood god on belials sword, I'm still trying to figure the best way to apply it with blunt weapons like thunder hammers.
Any suggestions are appreciated, but I think these are very cool and once again help us noobish painters to add something awesome looking.
Looking good. Maybe "bang" the end of the hammer into a small amount of B4tBG to create an impact point, and then do the "splatter" effect he showed around the impact point?
hotsauceman1 wrote: Ok, I have to get one of these today.....and people say GW paints suck
A lot of people prefer the dropper bottles that Reaper and Valejo use, and I personally hate the GW flip-top pots, but few people say that the actual GW paints suck.
Agrellan Earth and Typhus Corrosion are quite interesting, but the fixed colors are very... limiting, which is a shame. I'll be sticking to the Liquitex effects for the most part.
And after seeing BFTBG in person, I really don't think it compares with Tamiya Clear Red, except for being much easier to get a hold of.
I wonder if you could tint the cracked earth paint with something like a vallejo ink and it still set and crack?
It looks good in the pics posted in this thread, but its just one colour, I was thinking grey/black ink for urban , even red for a different type of planet perhaps, I'll have to get some and experiment.
As an aside, adding Vallejjo/Windsor Newton or whatever your local art shop sells glaze medium to any blood red paint gives the same effect as that paint,add in a little gloss varnish to the mix for that wet look fresh blood.
You supposedly can mix in ink our paint to the earth effect and it will change the color but still crackle. I have not tried it myself yet. The brown works for me theme so I'm not too worried. After I base my necrons i can try some different colors.
I'll be picking them all up, except for the earth one. I have things already that do most of those jobs, but more tools can never hurt. Actually, if one is exactly the same as VGC Smoky Ink, I can skip that one as well.
The Earth one would be used so rarely for me that it won't be worthwhile. I could see using it on the edges of the suspension armour on tanks and armoured vehicles for really thick, dried-out mud, but I'm concerned about how fragile it looks, and I'd probably use crackle medium from an art-supply place instead
That thick, though? The scale modeling/trains store I inquired with into that didn't have a clue. Craquele effect, sure. Nothing anywhere near as thick and 'textured' as, say Ziterdes dead earth paste (and I imagine this stuff), though.
Need that blood for the blood god for my DE now that I've see how it looks. I could FINALLY get that disgusting, horrific "parody of angels" look for my scourges!
Yeah. I'm still experimenting with how thick I need to put the effect on to get a large crackle. I'm still getting smaller ones that can be seen and look really nice, like in my photos, but I would like some large sized one.
Apparently (according to my local FLGS) 1 in 3 of the "Agrellan earth" is the wrong stuff, due to a labelling mix up, and is just regular brown (non-cracking) paint.
So if you've bought it and it doesn't crack, take it back and get one from a different (good) batch.
Necroagogo wrote: I've had three different thicknesses of the stuff drying on a bike base for the last couple of hours. The only thing cracking so far is my patience.
I put it on and went to bed, got up and it had cracked. I followed the video on the website and went with a nice layer and the cracks, while cool, are annoyingly small. Unless you get down and look at the base it just looks like a lame brown.
My recommedation for use is if you think it is thick enough, add about 1/2 again more.
Shamanlord1961 wrote: I put it on and went to bed, got up and it had cracked. I followed the video on the website and went with a nice layer and the cracks, while cool, are annoyingly small. Unless you get down and look at the base it just looks like a lame brown.
My recommendation for use is if you think it is thick enough, add about 1/2 again more.
Thanks - I guess I'll take a peek in the morning before I return the paint.
AduroT wrote: Were these a limited thing do we know or something that's supposed to stick around for awhile?
They are a general release. They shouldn't be going anywhere.
I picked up a few of them today (Blood/Rust/Oxide/Corrosion). And have done a few tests with them on my last few painted minis. I'm pretty pleased with them. They're all easier/more consistent than what I used to do for these techniques.
Picked up some of these last night including the Blood ... and was wondering how hard wearing people found it? I usually spray varnish with a gloss then cover that with dullcote which really kills any shine. I am wondering whether I'm better putting blood on before varnish then going back over the blood with a gloss spot varnish, or just adding the blood after the dullcote and hoping it is heard wearing enough.
Necroagogo wrote: I've had three different thicknesses of the stuff drying on a bike base for the last couple of hours. The only thing cracking so far is my patience.
Being in UK you made have gotten one of the bad batch, take it to your GW store and exchange it. I found that using a hair dryer and heating it up helped not only speed up the drying, but the crackling too. If you have one available, try that. If it still isn't crackling, go exchange it.
Necroagogo wrote: I've had three different thicknesses of the stuff drying on a bike base for the last couple of hours. The only thing cracking so far is my patience.
Being in UK you made have gotten one of the bad batch, take it to your GW store and exchange it. I found that using a hair dryer and heating it up helped not only speed up the drying, but the crackling too. If you have one available, try that. If it still isn't crackling, go exchange it.
Thanks for that, Whumbachumba. It's been 24 crackle-less hours now, so it's going back.
That does look good. Though I couldn't really see using it for anything aside from dioramas or starting a whole new army with the distinctive new basing style...
It's pretty solid, but I think I may put a layer of PVA on to prevent any of it flaking off over time. My brother was on about using it for Plague Marine armour. Not sure how that'll pan out, but it'll be an interesting experiment.
I think I'll be buying the cracked earth paint to use on my Mantic Enforcers. Oh, the humanity!! I still buy GW paint, even at the higher cost because it works well for my needs and it's what my stores have all sold. Other companies...not so much. This looks great (when it works) and I look forward to using it.
Just used the oxidizing green one on an old marine statue. It's freekin class a stuff. Have done some oxidizing myself with some other products but this stuff is so easy and looks better than others I've tried. Well impressed.
Has anyone used the blood for jewels, marine helmet eyes etc?
Blood for the blood god and nurgle rot are great. By far the best blood finish I've seen and extremely simple to do. Nurgle rot gives an unique finish, that I could never have achieved without it.
Corrosions a little less out there, and I tought it's a bit like a browner version of P3 armour wash.I don't think it's too useful unless your using it with rust, which gave really good result (much better than real rust that you get by mixing bleach, vinegear and steel wool).
Haven't try the verdigris one. I'll compare it with the Vallejo one that I've got
l0k1 wrote: Would it be possible to mix the Agrellan earth with some red to get a "mars red dust" look?
I'll give it a try real quick and see what I get. Will also try with blue, black, and green. Going to use the foundation paints as they have more pigment.
EDIT:
They are hard to mix to get a consistency that still crackles. It seems like you can use very little paint, just enough to tint it. DO NOT USE AIRBRUSH PAINT! Tried my Vallejo Model Air black, it just thinned the technical paint out and was useless.
Agrellan Earth + Mephiston Read:
Agrellan Earth + Caledor Sky:
Agrellan Earth + Caliban Green:
Agrellan Earth + Vallejo Model Air Black:
Compare these to just Agrellan Earth over a black primer base:
Conclusion: Agrellan Earth works best without being mixed. It may be possible to use this as a base texture then airbrush over it to get a color you want. I can try this out tomorrow. It seems like it would also help seal it so you can get a drybrush on it.
With the earth paint. Oce dried and cracked could you spray over the top? I'm thinking of using it on buildings as heat damage to paintwork, but will need to apply before spraying the main building colours using army painter sprays probably or even an airbrush...
barnacle111 wrote: With the earth paint. Oce dried and cracked could you spray over the top? I'm thinking of using it on buildings as heat damage to paintwork, but will need to apply before spraying the main building colours using army painter sprays probably or even an airbrush...
I have not tried yet, but you should be able to skyway over it fine. Should help it seal the flakes on too.
AduroT, looks like the ones I did have are all died out. Sorry.
Used some Nurgle's rot for my storm of magic daemons pact , hope this is visible enough since i took a pic from my phone. I am quite happy with the results , i painted dark angels green the waagh flesh and finally nurgle's rot.Used also the blood for the blood god which i also find quite awesome.
Did a bit more testing with these today. Tried airburshing over it and using Midland Tuft on an unpainted, really like the results of the latter.
Airbrushing does seem like a much better option for changing the color than mixing in paints did, but it will prevent you from doing basing colors underneath such as the lava effect.
Midland Tuft mixes really really well with the standard color.
NOTE: All the flakes on my cutting mat are not from bases flaking off, but from the pot itself where the paint dried around the rim.
Just got back an email from GW customer support about my post of the Agrellan Earth not cracking
they officially confirm (as others have suggested) that a bad batch got out to some of the UK stores but it's been pulled from sale (and I'll get a replacement at the weekend)
so if yours does not work(even when put on really thick) you've probably got the dud stuff too, take it back to the shop or email GW and they'll give you a freepost address to send it back to for a posted replacement if it's not convenient
Whumbachumba wrote: Did a bit more testing with these today. Tried airburshing over it and using Midland Tuft on an unpainted, really like the results of the latter.
Airbrushing does seem like a much better option for changing the color than mixing in paints did, but it will prevent you from doing basing colors underneath such as the lava effect.
Midland Tuft mixes really really well with the standard color.
NOTE: All the flakes on my cutting mat are not from bases flaking off, but from the pot itself where the paint dried around the rim.
Looks good man, I'll definitely be rolling the Agrellan Earth and grass out for my Necron bases.
