Thought it would be good to have a general Dropzone Commander thread for discussions, queries and pics relevant to this great Sci-Fi game. This first post is a summary of everything a newbie would need to know. Hopefully we can persuade some more people to jump in
History
Dropzone Commander is the primary product of Hawk Wargames. It was developed by David Lewis who basically did everything from writing the rules through to designing the minis. It was launched in 2012 and has since developed a not insignificant following of gamers looking to try something new. It now features quite strongly in several tournament scenes and Lewis is continuing to develop new background, rules and minis for the game. A spaceship combat game (named Dropfleet Commader) set in the same universe is expected to launch in Q4 in 2015 (with Andy Chambers involved in writing the rules).
The key aspect to Dropzone Commander games are the Dropships. Other elements - tanks, infantry, AA, artillery etc - are all present and correct, but they are effectively useless without Dropships to move them around the battlefield to key locations. The game is therefore about keeping your Dropships intact and trying to disable those of your opponents. If you lose all your Dropships, you will be playing at a severe handicap as your ground transports only move 6-9" and your infantry only moves 2". To prevent games turning into a shooting fest, a lot of urban scenery is recommended and most weapons have their range automatically reduced by countermeasures deployed by targets. Close combat only takes place in buildings where the majority of objectives are located. The rules are relatively straightforward and use similar mechanics to 40K (although I'd stress that DZC is not a 40K carbon copy).
The Background
It is 2670 - With Earth resources nearly exhausted, Humans have now colonised many new planets with the aid of the enigmatic Shaltari (it transpires that the Shaltari were seeking to use the humans as cannon fodder in their civil wars and naturally this led to a deterioration in diplomatic relations!) The humans later received a warning from another alien source known as the White Sphere that their worlds were under threat from imminent invasion. This warning was largely ignored, but a group of separatists chose to heed the warning and evacuated their worlds. Soon after, Humanity was assailed by the Scourge, a parasitic alien race, who quickly overwhelmed the grossly ill prepared colonists. A fraction of humanity managed to escape and retreated to a series of barren worlds to plan a counter attack.
The Factions
The United Colonists of Mankind (UCM) - After a century of preparation, the humans now believe they have the military might necessary to reclaim their lost colonies from the Scourge. They have access to powerful long ranged weapons and their vehicles have good armour. They aren't as mobile as other factions and lack strong close combat units. If they were a 40K race, they would be - Tau
The Scourge - The alien race have become complacent and the human hosts of the parasites are starting to deteriorate, yet the Scourge remain a powerful threat. The look of the Scourge is characterised by the bio-mechanical insectoid appearance of their vehicles. While they have only short ranged plasma weapons, their vehicles are well armoured and very mobile. The Scourge also have powerful close combat units. If they were a 40K race, they would be - Chaos
The Post Human Republic (PHR) - Shortly before the UCM commenced their invasion, they were contacted by a seemingly human faction. On closer inspection, they were revealed to be a part human, part cybernetic species and the UCM soon realise that this is what became of the hated separatists (the humans who fled before the Scourge invasion). The objectives of the PHR are unclear, but the UCM have rejected any suggestion of an alliance. The PHR are effectively the all rounders and are pretty good at everything (except perhaps mobility). If they were a 40K race, they would be - Space Marines.
The Shaltari - After the humans realised the true intent of the Shaltari (actually one of several tribes), the aliens returned to their own internal conflicts. However, they have just as great a claim on the worlds now occupied by the Scourge and will make their own incursions to reclaim lost territories. The main selling point of the Shaltari is that they use Gates rather than Dropships to move around the battlefield. This makes them the most mobile faction in the game and they have a range of powerful weapons and other tricks they can deploy. Their Gates however are very fragile and need to be deployed carefully. If they were a 40K race, they would be - Eldar
The Resistance - The newest faction are the humans left behind to fend for themselves against the Scourge occupation. There are actually two Resistance sub factions, those who welcome the liberation by the UCM (Allies) and those who have developed their own autocratic regimes and see the UCM as a threat (Ferals). The former can make use of some UCM units (representing early UCM deployment and support) while the latter have access to more rough and ready troops. The Resistance vehicles are a mixture of reclaimed tanks and repurposed civilian vehicles, while some of their "Dropships" are actually large hovercraft. If they were a 40K race, they would be - Imperial Guard (Allies) or Orks (Ferals).
Getting Started
The start up cost of the game is incredibly low. The fantastic starter set gives you everything you need to play including two 500 point armies (UCM and Scourge), the complete rulebook, dice, counters, cardboard scenery and even a poster which folds out to become a playing surface. The cost of starter is £60 which is great value, but you can also pick it up from a range of internet stockists for a reduced cost.
If you don't want to invest in the starter (but you really should!), the rulebook can be picked up for £15, while you can get a starter plastic army for any of the four main factions for £35. Once again these are all available cheaper from the usual alternative sources.
Expansions
There's only one major expansion at the moment - Reconquest - which features additional background, rules for new units and also the complete army list for the Resistance. There have also been subsequent releases not covered in either the Main Rulebook or Reconquest Expansion, but rules for these can be downloaded from the website.
Does anyone know what the points value of PHR core starter army is? I'm try to figure out a way to make the UCM army in the starter set equal(ish) to the PHR starter.
Cool pics! I been thinking of making a surprise of a painted PHR army for a friend and a UCM for myself. How difficult is the game to learn? Also, are 500 point games good or are 1000 notable better?
The basic mechanics are extremely intuitive and easy to learn, but the tactics and strategies involving movement and activation manipulation can be difficult to master. Army selection can also seem a bit daunting at first, but after you figure it out it is both relatively straightforward and quite flexible. It also helps a ton to use the FFoR army builder.
I would suggest 1000 point games over 500 point games for playing long-term. The added redundancy and wider unit selection makes the game a lot more dynamic. Especially once you introduce commanders and fast movers. That said, I personally think the best experience is at 1500 (tournament level), but to be honest I've enjoyed every level that I have played at so far.
DzC rocks. Great company support (fixed units that are either under/over powered. Miniatures are great, rules are easy to learn but hard to master (what 30pages in the core book).
Cheap entry point, 1500pt army is ~150-200USD.
Fan built army builder x 2.
There are plenty of battle reports on Youtube to view to get a feel for the game.
That said, this is a great game! Some pictures of my Resistance below. Put them under a spoiler because they come out pretty big.
Spoiler:
Impressive Resistance army The Resistance has a great look and I was very tempted to start with them, but decided to focus on the Scourge for time being.
Is the scale close enough to 1/144 to pass off some modified scale models as gaming minis? I've got a lot of gunpla bits that work in that scale, but they look a bit big next to DZC minis. I'm also planning to use some 1/100 tanks with sci fi bits as super heavies. Reaper's CAV is supposed to be 10mm, too, right?
I'm not sure if using DZC scale and importing, say, Zentraedi vehicles would work better than using RTT's 6mm minis and importing scourge prowlers and ravagers as "Outvid" minis.
I'm not too concerned about using them as counts as or with rules or anything. I just want them to look good together.
BobtheInquisitor wrote: Is the scale close enough to 1/144 to pass off some modified scale models as gaming minis? I've got a lot of gunpla bits that work in that scale, but they look a bit big next to DZC minis. I'm also planning to use some 1/100 tanks with sci fi bits as super heavies. Reaper's CAV is supposed to be 10mm, too, right?
I'm not sure if using DZC scale and importing, say, Zentraedi vehicles would work better than using RTT's 6mm minis and importing scourge prowlers and ravagers as "Outvid" minis.
I'm not too concerned about using them as counts as or with rules or anything. I just want them to look good together.
DzC is 10mm ~ Scale ratio: 1:160. 1/144 will work, 1/100 depends on the model.
Soteks Prophet wrote: I don't find it fun. You always fail on a 1. More dice are better.
The minis are relatively expensive considering their scale.
The plastic starter sets make it relatively cheap to dive straight in with a race of your choosing IMHO. The resins for the individual minis aren't cheap, but strike me as fairly comparable to other stuff these days. A standard 1500 point army won't set you back as much as a GW one.
Pictures there of the new units painted and on display! Including some previously un-previewed units like Commander Wade's Tank and a variant of the new Resistance ATVs. There are also a bunch of great images of the DFC space-ships.
The recent Scourge releases are what really pushed me over the edge into collecting them.
And seeing those spaceships... I think I have a new favourite minis company.
Pictures there of the new units painted and on display! Including some previously un-previewed units like Commander Wade's Tank and a variant of the new Resistance ATVs. There are also a bunch of great images of the DFC space-ships.
Good find
The Scourge DFC ships looking almost as good as the UCM ones. Can't wait for this game!
Same, although the first time around it was the UCM and Scourge from the starter.
This time around it's Shaltari and PHR on ground, and whatever two look best to me in Dropfleet.
I'm also going to take the time to create a pack of new missions and objectives more to my liking. Stuff with a soft limit on turns rather than an old style hard 6 turn limit.
I hate the focal point missions with a passion since the giant dogpile around the point looks stupid, but the general idea behind focal points is understandable since armies do have to hold ground at some point. It may be simple as saying anything left shoots during a turn 7 where all shooting is simultaneous.
I also really, really like the revisions and errata they did just before Reconquest, adding stuff like air controllers to help air attack ground units.
But I do want to see them explore other terrain types.
Anyone have any links to "how tos" for making the paper terrain from the terrain sets they sell look overgrown and abandoned? Or Anyone have experience doing that? I have 3 sets of the buildings and roads and a jar of flock.
What the best way to build the buildings so they are sturdy and dont shift on the tiles. Also whats the best way to keep the tiles from slipping all around?
You can cut thick bases for the buildings out of matt board or card, then add some of the non-slip sheeting under them to prevent sliding. The base will prevent buildings from changing shape if you glue or tape them, and the no slip surface under it will help buildings stay in place.
Vertrucio wrote: You can cut thick bases for the buildings out of matt board or card, then add some of the non-slip sheeting under them to prevent sliding. The base will prevent buildings from changing shape if you glue or tape them, and the no slip surface under it will help buildings stay in place.
This is a great idea. We've had problems with the buildings moving, so we'll give this a shot.
I know this seems random, but what size are the bases for the fighters and drop ships? I have loads of bases from X-Wing and Attack Wing their I wouldn't mind repurposing...
Just spotted this thread, and I apologize for the double-post, but I am hoping this might be a better place to get an answer...
The wife and I were looking at the 2-player starter box for Dropzone. It seems incredibly value rich, with full rules and two "starter" armies for about $75 online. Awesome.
But what I am wondering is how well those initial armies would convey how the proper game feels. X-wing, for example, is an absolute joke if played solely as the contents of one starter, and imo does a poor job of even remotely conveying how the game actually feels at 100pts. On the other hand I think Warmachine/Hordes battle-boxes do a really good job of showing you how a full game will feel, simply with the understanding that more units and larger game size means more of that kind of experience.
We're happy to quickly expand forces, but are just really hoping that one purchase will be enough to give us an idea of whether it is a game for us, or not.
Are there any other "essential" purchases for DZC? I see card decks, etc?
Edit: Oh man! I totally missed one of my main questions! Is there any way to get a digital copy of the rule-book? As a disabled gamer, flipping through big books is always unwieldy for me, especially when learning a game. As such, digital editions usually make my life a ton easier.
The starter conveys the game pretty well and makes for a good 1/2 full army, save for a command model. Although you can put a commander in any vehicle, the command slot vehicles are usually pretty useful and powerful.
Even without command vehicles the starter set gives a pretty good feel of the game. It contains two small armies with the most common basic units for both factions, so you won't have anything fancy, but you'll get a good idea of how the game plays out. Do note that the models in starter sets are plastic, whereas normally they are made of resin. It does make for a sweet deal though.
There is no digital rulebook (yet) that I am aware of.
Iron_Captain wrote: Even without command vehicles the starter set gives a pretty good feel of the game. It contains two small armies with the most common basic units for both factions, so you won't have anything fancy, but you'll get a good idea of how the game plays out.
Do note that the models in starter sets are plastic, whereas normally they are made of resin. It does make for a sweet deal though.
There is no digital rulebook (yet) that I am aware of.
Reports from Gencon indicate that they have a digital rulebook in the works.
*a mass produced version of Wade's Broadsword
*Angelos with a flame weapon
*Scout version of Resistance ATVs
*Some kind of drop pod Razorworms
*An Ocelot variant for Shaltari with a E7 2 Sh UNLIMITED RANGE AA gun.
I remembered reading somewhere about a round of new Fast Movers as well.
Phase 2 is dropping sometime next year, and then there will be a Phase 3 sometime after that.
*a mass produced version of Wade's Broadsword
*Angelos with a flame weapon
*Scout version of Resistance ATVs
*Some kind of drop pod Razorworms
*An Ocelot variant for Shaltari with a E7 2 Sh UNLIMITED RANGE AA gun.
I remembered reading somewhere about a round of new Fast Movers as well.
Phase 2 is dropping sometime next year, and then there will be a Phase 3 sometime after that.
Ok cool.
So a new heavy tank for UCM, new firey goodness for PHR, stuff for resistence and a murder worm delivery system.
Sounds cool
str00dles1 wrote: Anyone have any links to "how tos" for making the paper terrain from the terrain sets they sell look overgrown and abandoned? Or Anyone have experience doing that? I have 3 sets of the buildings and roads and a jar of flock.
What the best way to build the buildings so they are sturdy and dont shift on the tiles. Also whats the best way to keep the tiles from slipping all around?
I think the ones with the flock on them are probably the resin kits they also sell. As far as the card buildings go, if you want to make some customizations, you should glue them down onto some styrene backing for extra support in my opinion. If you do that, just a bit of elmers glue on the outside along with the flock and they should have a nice overgrown look. You can also get the pdf version, print them out on paper, and glue those onto styrene instead and save the cardboard ones.
I saw someone who made some nice ruins doing something similar.
So the wife and I have settled (tentatively) on UCM and Scourge, meaning the two-player starter set is ideal.
A few of our friends have said the smartest thing to do is simply buy 2x of the 2-player starter, as we would need the extra terrain, and all the units would see game-time and thus not be a waste if we continue with the game. Does everyone here feel the same way?
I've got some other questions if you folks wouldn't mind me asking...
1. As above, doubling the starter a good idea?
2. Can Dropzone be played on non-urban tables? I find the masses of buildings sometimes look so cluttered. Does the game "work" at all without tons of LOS blocking lanes as per "cities"?
3. If we don't go the 2x starter route, what purchases should we get to get both forces up to 1200pts (That's standard right?) without grossly imbalancing one player against the other?
4. Is that Drone Commander Aircraft Carrier thingie good? Please tell me it is. It looks awesome. :-p
NewTruthNeomaxim wrote: So the wife and I have settled (tentatively) on UCM and Scourge, meaning the two-player starter set is ideal.
A few of our friends have said the smartest thing to do is simply buy 2x of the 2-player starter, as we would need the extra terrain, and all the units would see game-time and thus not be a waste if we continue with the game. Does everyone here feel the same way?
I've got some other questions if you folks wouldn't mind me asking...
1. As above, doubling the starter a good idea?
2. Can Dropzone be played on non-urban tables? I find the masses of buildings sometimes look so cluttered. Does the game "work" at all without tons of LOS blocking lanes as per "cities"?
3. If we don't go the 2x starter route, what purchases should we get to get both forces up to 1200pts (That's standard right?) without grossly imbalancing one player against the other?
4. Is that Drone Commander Aircraft Carrier thingie good? Please tell me it is. It looks awesome. :-p
1. Yes, doubling the starter is a great idea, because you are going to need all of those units anyways and the extra terrain is neat. I'd start with just one though, to try it out and see how you like it, and then buy the second starter once you've gotten a feel for it.
2. Yes, but it does chance the balance of the game. Some units that are good in urban terrain perform much worse, while other units will benefit from the lack of cover.
3. I'd really go for the double standard, because the starter contains the basic "bread and butter" units of your army. You'd want more of those anyway before adding the more specialist units. In general, two 1200 points forces should be relatively balanced against each other regardless of unit choices. The only exception could be where you have hard counters to your opponents army (for example: if your opponents army were to contain a lot of infantry and you take a lot of anti-infantry weapons, or no AA and you take lots of aircraft etc.) As long as you have a combined arms force without one thing dominating you should be fine though. At least, that is what I have found so far with my limited experience.
NewTruthNeomaxim wrote: So the wife and I have settled (tentatively) on UCM and Scourge, meaning the two-player starter set is ideal.
A few of our friends have said the smartest thing to do is simply buy 2x of the 2-player starter, as we would need the extra terrain, and all the units would see game-time and thus not be a waste if we continue with the game. Does everyone here feel the same way?
I've got some other questions if you folks wouldn't mind me asking...
1. As above, doubling the starter a good idea?
2. Can Dropzone be played on non-urban tables? I find the masses of buildings sometimes look so cluttered. Does the game "work" at all without tons of LOS blocking lanes as per "cities"?
3. If we don't go the 2x starter route, what purchases should we get to get both forces up to 1200pts (That's standard right?) without grossly imbalancing one player against the other?
4. Is that Drone Commander Aircraft Carrier thingie good? Please tell me it is. It looks awesome. :-p
1. Yes, doubling the starter is a great idea, because you are going to need all of those units anyways and the extra terrain is neat. I'd start with just one though, to try it out and see how you like it, and then buy the second starter once you've gotten a feel for it.
2. Yes, but it does chance the balance of the game. Some units that are good in urban terrain perform much worse, while other units will benefit from the lack of cover.
3. I'd really go for the double standard, because the starter contains the basic "bread and butter" units of your army. You'd want more of those anyway before adding the more specialist units. In general, two 1200 points forces should be relatively balanced against each other regardless of unit choices. The only exception could be where you have hard counters to your opponents army (for example: if your opponents army were to contain a lot of infantry and you take a lot of anti-infantry weapons, or no AA and you take lots of aircraft etc.) As long as you have a combined arms force without one thing dominating you should be fine though. At least, that is what I have found so far with my limited experience.
1. Absoulty yes. My friend and me did this, and it helps get us into ti a lot (even though I ended up selling off UCM for PHR, but thats a different story). This gives you near 1000 points or so give or take. We then bought a command vehicle, myself the Kodiak and him the floating octapus thing. We also got the cards but after playing with them a few times didnt find they add much so we dont use them anymore.
2. It can be played non urban. Just make sure there is cover, and cover for the infantry or they will get slaughtered. A remote outpost would be good, hills, trees, bunkers for objectives/infantry.
3. If not going 2 starter, pick a command vehicle out and each get one. Id also go for a unit of the heavier tanks for both armies. Gunships for each one is also good. Air attack is good, Arcangels for UCM and the Corsairs for Scourge. Really though the best value is 2 starters for a solid core force as youll need the basic tanks and AA tanks with transports.
4. The carrier is ok. Has some AA which is nice. The drones are good enmass but can easily be killed. Its very slow though so really should be carried on by the Albatross.
NewTruthNeomaxim wrote: So the wife and I have settled (tentatively) on UCM and Scourge, meaning the two-player starter set is ideal.
A few of our friends have said the smartest thing to do is simply buy 2x of the 2-player starter, as we would need the extra terrain, and all the units would see game-time and thus not be a waste if we continue with the game. Does everyone here feel the same way?
I've got some other questions if you folks wouldn't mind me asking...
1. As above, doubling the starter a good idea?
2. Can Dropzone be played on non-urban tables? I find the masses of buildings sometimes look so cluttered. Does the game "work" at all without tons of LOS blocking lanes as per "cities"?
3. If we don't go the 2x starter route, what purchases should we get to get both forces up to 1200pts (That's standard right?) without grossly imbalancing one player against the other?
4. Is that Drone Commander Aircraft Carrier thingie good? Please tell me it is. It looks awesome. :-p
1. Yes, doubling the starter is a great idea, because you are going to need all of those units anyways and the extra terrain is neat. I'd start with just one though, to try it out and see how you like it, and then buy the second starter once you've gotten a feel for it.
2. Yes, but it does chance the balance of the game. Some units that are good in urban terrain perform much worse, while other units will benefit from the lack of cover.
3. I'd really go for the double standard, because the starter contains the basic "bread and butter" units of your army. You'd want more of those anyway before adding the more specialist units. In general, two 1200 points forces should be relatively balanced against each other regardless of unit choices. The only exception could be where you have hard counters to your opponents army (for example: if your opponents army were to contain a lot of infantry and you take a lot of anti-infantry weapons, or no AA and you take lots of aircraft etc.) As long as you have a combined arms force without one thing dominating you should be fine though. At least, that is what I have found so far with my limited experience.
1. Absoulty yes. My friend and me did this, and it helps get us into ti a lot (even though I ended up selling off UCM for PHR, but thats a different story). This gives you near 1000 points or so give or take. We then bought a command vehicle, myself the Kodiak and him the floating octapus thing. We also got the cards but after playing with them a few times didnt find they add much so we dont use them anymore.
2. It can be played non urban. Just make sure there is cover, and cover for the infantry or they will get slaughtered. A remote outpost would be good, hills, trees, bunkers for objectives/infantry.
3. If not going 2 starter, pick a command vehicle out and each get one. Id also go for a unit of the heavier tanks for both armies. Gunships for each one is also good. Air attack is good, Arcangels for UCM and the Corsairs for Scourge. Really though the best value is 2 starters for a solid core force as youll need the basic tanks and AA tanks with transports.
4. The carrier is ok. Has some AA which is nice. The drones are good enmass but can easily be killed. Its very slow though so really should be carried on by the Albatross.
Why would you want to transport the carrier? Just place it behind a building and spawn drones all day.
nobody wrote: Ferrums (including Cato) want to just sit on the board edge behind several buildings and launch drones all day. They should rarely need to move.
If you are going Cato, Archangels and Seraphim are in your future thanks to her special rules.
I LOVE flyers in games, so that sounds alright with me. :-p
So have we chosen wisely? Will the Eden's Dinosaur and Cato, fit neatly with the double-starters? Or at least be fun to play with until we're ready to expand?
nobody wrote: Ferrums (including Cato) want to just sit on the board edge behind several buildings and launch drones all day. They should rarely need to move.
If you are going Cato, Archangels and Seraphim are in your future thanks to her special rules.
I LOVE flyers in games, so that sounds alright with me. :-p
So have we chosen wisely? Will the Eden's Dinosaur and Cato, fit neatly with the double-starters? Or at least be fun to play with until we're ready to expand?
The two special commanders may be rough on each other's armies at lower points levels.
I'll suggest that your wife may want to look into a unit of the AA walkers for Scourge (Ravagers I think?) They're the best choice for controlling drones in the Scourge army list.
I just realized, you are going to want to get the Reconquest book as well since both commanders' rules are in there.
Well, our thought is we could proxy them as a regular Desolator and even a Kodiak until we're ready to go bigger, or have more experience.
Here's a question. We don't own any 10mm terrain (well, except for some Planetfall terrain, and the 20 buildings from the double starter boxes). Do we need any low/scatter terrain for infantry or tanks at the street level? Any recommendations?
Does anyone have any favorite place/channel for great video bat-reps? In particular, uncut full length games are always something which help me learn a new game.
I borrowed a friend's book while we wait for our order to arrive. I am just digging in, but I must say I find the army building very clever. I always heard it was a bit complex, but honestly, it isn't as off-putting as Flames of War, and in fact seems very empowering in making meaningful choices out of how you build individual battle-groups, etc.
NewTruthNeomaxim wrote: Does anyone have any favorite place/channel for great video bat-reps? In particular, uncut full length games are always something which help me learn a new game.
I borrowed a friend's book while we wait for our order to arrive. I am just digging in, but I must say I find the army building very clever. I always heard it was a bit complex, but honestly, it isn't as off-putting as Flames of War, and in fact seems very empowering in making meaningful choices out of how you build individual battle-groups, etc.
Blue table Painting used to do full length, detailed batreps, but not anymore.
It was back when the game was first released anyway, and they even had the creator around.
The rules haven't changed much since, but there are a some notable differences (Ie, the Kodiak not having an AoE weapon, like it does now)
As someone who's really curious about this game, thanks for that video post above. I have the rulebook, but have yet to read it. I'll definitely check out those official videos!
Well here is my Resistance that I am starting to paint up. No more Arctic Wolves, or was it the Snow Jaguars since they were all white before?
Trying an Alpha Legion colour scheme. Love the blues and greens and trying to incorporate it into my army. Still learning how to air brush. I finally like it. It's not great, but ok. Going to finish the other white parts not done yet and then try and do the smaller details. Hope I pull it off.
*edit*
Having some fun. Magnetized and so switched some parts for some lulu.
Yesterday I spent the better part of the afternoon assembling our starters and extras, and had Dropzone on the brain as I went to sleep.
I proceeded to dream about Hawk Wargames adapting the Dropzone rules to make a 10mm Star Wars licensed game. Needless to say, I woke up very sad realizing it was only a dream. :-p
I watched a couple of Cameron's reports earlier. I only wish they were uncut. As a new player, seeing the dice-rolls made, etc... for even one game helps immensely.
I tried the Blue Table ones... but, genuinely found the commentator and his friend obnoxious, and couldn't make it through the whole thing. I felt bad for Dave Lewis for getting talked over, and constantly disrespected... during a demo of his own game.
Regarding scenery, the rulebooks have plenty of pictures of battles taking place in non-urban areas; arctic tundra, wooded areas with rocky outcrops and desert/scrubland. Then there was the big table set up at Salute 2015:
I think the urban layouts became so popular because the card buildings were produced - ironically because of a lack of commercially-available 10mm scenery.
If you complain that demolishing buildings is unbalancing, not fun or otherwise a problem, try ... using something else instead.
From what I've seen though, if you're going to play in a non-urban area you're going to need a LOT of terrain. different factions have very different combat ranges, and a too open table will turn into a shooting gallery.
Quick question guys... How close are posted "experimental" rules, to their final rules?
I ask because I haven't bought the Reconquest book yet, but own the Ferrum Drone Carrier. I don't want to buy the book for one profile (until I am ready to expand our forces of course), but did notice they have old experimental rules posted for it.
The experimental rules, by my understanding, will actually have the latest updates folded into the pdf. If not, then they should really remove those from the website.
Are the new game features such as Air Controllers only in the Reconquest book, or are they on a web somewhere?
I definitely will be supporting this game, but hate buying up books just to get up to speed with a game. I have an aversion since getting into Malifaux, being talked into buying the 1.5 rulebook and THREE pricey expansion books... only to have them out-dated six months later when version 2.0 launched.
So I will probably order Reconquest this week, and maybe a few units for the wife and I. Our starter set x2 games have been very fun, and using our Famous Commanders as proxies for regular, core-book commanders has been interesting enough that we're going full sized with the game.
Any suggestions for fun/diverse next purchases for UCM and Scourge?
UCM: Go for Archangels. start with 1 pack and see how you like them, if you do pick up a second and a Seraphim.
Falcons are also incredible right now, and an Eagle can't hurt.
The new Hazard suits look pretty awesome, and I've been hearing good reports about them.
Praetorians are also decent, and Wolverines are really good for a scout unit (the AA wolverines).
As for painting canopies, on my UCM I use a dark blue (Kaldor Blue I think from GW), then do a quick splotch of something like Altdorf Blue or another lighter blue.
nobody wrote: UCM: Go for Archangels. start with 1 pack and see how you like them, if you do pick up a second and a Seraphim.
Falcons are also incredible right now, and an Eagle can't hurt.
The new Hazard suits look pretty awesome, and I've been hearing good reports about them.
Praetorians are also decent, and Wolverines are really good for a scout unit (the AA wolverines).
As for painting canopies, on my UCM I use a dark blue (Kaldor Blue I think from GW), then do a quick splotch of something like Altdorf Blue or another lighter blue.
Thanks man. And since I am buying for the wife as well, what Scourge units would you suggest?
I only really play Scourge to do demo games, but from what I've seen:
Destroyers (their exotics) they're really resilient and strong.
Raider+Screamer sets, Raiders right now look really good being a flying flamer platform, Screamers work well to debuff the infantry you aren't flaming.
Ravagers for AA, they compliment Reapers pretty well.
For both factions, you'll want to grab at least two packs of your light infantry dropships (Raven-A for UCM, Intruder-A I think for Scourge(?)) as they tend to be hard to find and you'll want them for your exotics (and graduating your other infantry to them).
nobody wrote: UCM: Go for Archangels. start with 1 pack and see how you like them, if you do pick up a second and a Seraphim.
Falcons are also incredible right now, and an Eagle can't hurt.
The new Hazard suits look pretty awesome, and I've been hearing good reports about them.
Praetorians are also decent, and Wolverines are really good for a scout unit (the AA wolverines).
As for painting canopies, on my UCM I use a dark blue (Kaldor Blue I think from GW), then do a quick splotch of something like Altdorf Blue or another lighter blue.
Thanks man. And since I am buying for the wife as well, what Scourge units would you suggest?
Prowlers and minders are great units for expanding from the starter set. They also act as scouts for your commander. They use the same drop ship, so you could always get one box of each and see if you like them before investing in dual sets of drop ships.
After that you should go for a commander unit. The flying squid or the eden dinosaur are both pretty good. And make sure to pick up the command cards. Devestators are also good, and you'll have two extra transports from your two starter sets, so you could buy 1 box of destroyers, 1 more dropship, and you'll be good to go.
After 8 months of my last non demo game, 2 of my friends they want to play the game again. Just because I bought more minis and I showed them on the table while I was painting them. I thing you should try this strategy to call the attention of other players in FLGS or your game club.
nobody wrote: UCM: Go for Archangels. start with 1 pack and see how you like them, if you do pick up a second and a Seraphim.
Falcons are also incredible right now, and an Eagle can't hurt.
The new Hazard suits look pretty awesome, and I've been hearing good reports about them.
Praetorians are also decent, and Wolverines are really good for a scout unit (the AA wolverines).
As for painting canopies, on my UCM I use a dark blue (Kaldor Blue I think from GW), then do a quick splotch of something like Altdorf Blue or another lighter blue.
Thanks man. And since I am buying for the wife as well, what Scourge units would you suggest?
Prowlers and minders are great units for expanding from the starter set. They also act as scouts for your commander. They use the same drop ship, so you could always get one box of each and see if you like them before investing in dual sets of drop ships.
After that you should go for a commander unit. The flying squid or the eden dinosaur are both pretty good. And make sure to pick up the command cards. Devestators are also good, and you'll have two extra transports from your two starter sets, so you could buy 1 box of destroyers, 1 more dropship, and you'll be good to go.
Thanks for the suggestions, all. We actually do have Commanders, having bought Eden's Dinosaur, and The Luciana-Cato Character-Ferrum, as well as Command Card decks. We've been using them as proxies for a Kodiak and Desolator generic Command vehicles, while learning the game. :-p
Hey, is anyone else having problems getting approved forum access to the hawk forums? I registered over a week ago and never heard back other than the "your account must be approved" email.
Hey, is anyone else having problems getting approved forum access to the hawk forums? I registered over a week ago and never heard back other than the "your account must be approved" email.
It takes a while, took me a month. Then I emailed info@hawkwargames.com. Was a member w/in 2 weeks after that.
You have to realize it is a 6-7 man operation, takes a while.
Anyone know the trees Hawk uses on their nice multi level boards? Like the one here in a beasts of war "how to beat" video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ea9IK6YYvI skip to 1:33 in. The bigger tree to the right and the smal ones under the hades
Also was any rules posted for the Bunker terrain set?
Just starting out with my UCM army and was really interested in the use of IF and FM units UCM has. Would like some thoughts on the list I have come up with,
(I currently own 2 UCM starters, Flak Troops kit, Ferrum kit, Raven A and B kits, Longbow kit, Arachangel kit, and Seraphim kit)
IF Strike Fighters
Clash: 1492/1500 points
Standard Roster [1492/1500 pts]
str00dles1 wrote: Anyone know the trees Hawk uses on their nice multi level boards? Like the one here in a beasts of war "how to beat" video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ea9IK6YYvI skip to 1:33 in. The bigger tree to the right and the smal ones under the hades
Also was any rules posted for the Bunker terrain set?
My guess is that they are just some model railway scenery.
Are infantry useful on a non-city board? Do you use similar rules for "forests" or "rocky outcrops" as you do for buildings so that CQB becomes a thing again?
Dakkamite wrote: Are infantry useful on a non-city board? Do you use similar rules for "forests" or "rocky outcrops" as you do for buildings so that CQB becomes a thing again?
In DZC CQB specifically refers to close combat occurring in a building. You can't have it anywhere else with RAW. Also, RAW forests and rocky outcrops are just both "tough" terrain with body cover.
However a number of units have CC attacks, which is completely separate from CQB and requires one model to be in close contact with another. In any non-building situation per the rules, infantry would just shoot at each. I personally think its a slight flaw in the ruleset, but they game was really designed around combat in cities and it shows.
Bear in mind that a lot of the new infantry units don't seem to be designed for occupying buildings and CQB.
It's the nature of things that some units are more useful than others in different situations. If you find that infantry aren't so useful in non-urban areas, that's not a flaw as such.
Agree with the above, and it makes realisim sense. In a city board, infantry are very key as you need bodies to go in buildings for the Intel. Tanks/Ships cant go in and find it.
On the reverse side, in a non urban board for instance, the tanks/skimmers/what have you would have an easier time as infantry running around not in a building gets murdered instantly. Chances are in that type of board, your doing focal points or small bunkers with intel where infantry are less important.
Hey, is anyone else having problems getting approved forum access to the hawk forums? I registered over a week ago and never heard back other than the "your account must be approved" email.
It takes a while, took me a month. Then I emailed info@hawkwargames.com. Was a member w/in 2 weeks after that.
You have to realize it is a 6-7 man operation, takes a while.
I had the same problem when I registered. I was told by another player to give them some time as GenCon was going on. I eventually had to email then and find out what was going on.
If it really is that small an operation then now I understand why one guy couldn't hit a few buttons during that time.
My wife and I just started our first games as well, and let me say that for first games, I would really suggest not using the Famous Commanders. They are so powerful, and frankly, "different" that they seem to cock up the feel of the game a fair bit.
For the moment we've proxied the Dinosaur as a Desolator, and the Luciana M. Cato as a regular old Kodiak... and the games seem much more noob friendly.
Yeah, that's one of my major, major dislikes about the game that I wished people were less complacent about.
Making these character commanders not pointed or balanced for the normal game, basically making them semi-optional is a silly way to do things. People shouldn't have to proxy with their own official models. You don't want to make it any harder for people to play with models thay've purchased, especially considering how much competition for time that miniature games are facing, let alone DZC specifically.
That just seems like the sort of leftover GW mindset, and we're all seeing where that mindset leads with Age of Sigmar. DZC does not own the market like GW, they can't just handwave things away.
Which just makes that decision even more striking considering they've been making a good effort at keeping everything else pretty balanced and updated, and openly discuss with the community about such issues.
It's also why I think that they should have included a small set of command cards, or at least a card table to roll on in the 2 player starter set, just to make that mechanic more up front and familiar.
NewTruthNeomaxim wrote: My wife and I just started our first games as well, and let me say that for first games, I would really suggest not using the Famous Commanders. They are so powerful, and frankly, "different" that they seem to cock up the feel of the game a fair bit.
For the moment we've proxied the Dinosaur as a Desolator, and the Luciana M. Cato as a regular old Kodiak... and the games seem much more noob friendly.
Well we've been playing a while, but that's a good point. I just really like the dinosaur's alternate weapons as the desolator doesn't really fit my playstyle so far.
I agree Ventrucio, I don't like how the famous commanders have alternate models. But so far I haven't seen people acting like these are the "special characters" of warhammer, instead folks just seem to consider these an alternate unit.
I also think that not including the command cards in some form in the basic set was a mistake, I haven't used them yet in any of our games (as they've all been starter set sized) so its going to be a bit of a "wake up" when I do.
Capt. Camping wrote: I bought the Cato`s Ferrum to use it as a normal Ferrum, since no one here has special commanders.
And this is why I think it's wrong to do make character commanders something separate.
You really shouldn't be limited to using a vanilla rules for a character model, one that's likely more expensive, and using a character model as something else adds to new player confusion.
If they really want to make the rules wild, make an extreme version of their rules usable only in scenarios and beyond friendly games.
Years ago Mechwarrior v1.0 had a problem similar to this. Some pilots were attached to the mechs permanently. Then in v2.0 they made the mechs generic and then you attach a pilot card to that mech. That`s when Wizkids killed the game.
Vertrucio wrote: ...Metal is simlar, but is more suited to larger runs due to spincasting. However, the material cost has skyrocketed over the last decade.
And before somebody mentions the hard drop in the price of Tin*, it's still much higher than 10 years ago.
*Tin is the primary metal used in "pewter" or "non lead" miniatures.
Edit: While I'm thinking about it the old Lead miniatures used...lead...mostly...which is much much cheaper than tin.
The Off-Topic forum is down there, folks. Gun control has nothing to do with DZC. And the NY Public Health law restricting the use of lead doesn't cover minis.
AndrewGPaul wrote: The Off-Topic forum is down there, folks. Gun control has nothing to do with DZC. And the NY Public Health law restricting the use of lead doesn't cover minis.
I'm still really enjoying DZC. Haven't got a game for a couple weeks (my regular opponent has been out of the country) though.
I'm thinking about picking up a second force now, to give me a different force to play. Since I've got scourge right now, I'm think the most radically different force would be PHR or Resistance. My regular opponent has both PHR and UCM.
I have PHR and Shaltari as communal armies for my group. However, Shaltari have been a miss with my group and I'm not that enamored with them yet. It's likely I'll stop filling out my Shaltari army and just get into UCM or scourge.
One thing about DZC is that you absolutely need activation markers. Doesn't matter how good you think your memory is. If you play at 1500 or higher, you'll need a way to indicate what's been activated. It's something that I don't think Hawk warns players about in the rules. You'll also want other tokens as new units start getting new abilities that need tracking.
I'm also still disappointed by how simplistic and mediocre the card based command system is. It really just seems like an excuse to sell cards, which would be okay if it worked more elegantly in the rules.. And already they've had to print a new set of cards due to balance changes.
Best way we found for marking guys is many tokens( I use FFGs little round flat ones) or printing out your army and just marking off when it went with a mark.
As for cards, we don't really use them. If we do its every once and awhile. They really slow the game down for such a small effect. We also feel it throws off the balance of the game when one player draws their "power" cards and the other has crap cards.
Vertrucio wrote: I have PHR and Shaltari as communal armies for my group. However, Shaltari have been a miss with my group and I'm not that enamored with them yet. It's likely I'll stop filling out my Shaltari army and just get into UCM or scourge.
One thing about DZC is that you absolutely need activation markers. Doesn't matter how good you think your memory is. If you play at 1500 or higher, you'll need a way to indicate what's been activated. It's something that I don't think Hawk warns players about in the rules. You'll also want other tokens as new units start getting new abilities that need tracking.
I'm also still disappointed by how simplistic and mediocre the card based command system is. It really just seems like an excuse to sell cards, which would be okay if it worked more elegantly in the rules.. And already they've had to print a new set of cards due to balance changes.
I just check them off on my army list sheet that I print out from Hawk's free FFOR program. Works fine for me. But I can see how it could get difficult with more troops and the one shot weapons. I don't have any of those yet, except my destroyers.
AndrewGPaul wrote: It's not forgetting to activate a unit I have problems with; it's remembering which units are grouped into each battlegroup.
I typically have a list from the building app printed out, and put a dash next to each group I've used. Beyond that, I typically make it plain to my opponent what goes with what, and ask them to speak up if I misfire on any pairing.
Just got into this game and its more fun then I could have thought, although my current record is 4-0 against my buddy. And I thought Scourge against UCM would be harder for me to win! The rules are very straightforward and seeing it on the table its easily the best terrain I have seen in a game. Wish it had more exposure, it seems pretty dead on the internet.
It is far from dead. It is just that DZC is a small community compared to the big ones like 40k, FoW and Warmahordes.
It is growing and developing quite nicely though.
XvReaperXv wrote: Just got into this game and its more fun then I could have thought, although my current record is 4-0 against my buddy. And I thought Scourge against UCM would be harder for me to win! The rules are very straightforward and seeing it on the table its easily the best terrain I have seen in a game. Wish it had more exposure, it seems pretty dead on the internet.
The facebook group has a lot of activity, as do the Hawk Forums. I think the game deserves more exposure than it gets, its pretty well thought out and fun.
Personally, Dropzone Commander is the second most well designed tabletop battle game I've ever played. - and I've played really quite a few. The only one that really surpasses it is X-wing and that's only because it has very easy rules for new players, whereas DZC by its sheer scale (which is kind of the point of it!) Is more complicated to pick up fresh.
I'm batting at about 50% odds for getting a close combat timing right in any given game. Still not entirely sure I've got disembarking and reembarking infantry distances right either, for example.
Anyhow, I apparently haven't shown off my armies yet in this thread.
I've got about 3000 points of UCM total, with this pic being my main 2500pt chunk of it minus my Ferris, command ship and some other bits and pieces.
I've got about 4000 points of Scourge, kinda accidentally really, Wayland were selling the resin starter set for £30 and I had most of my army done. In any case, here's another 2.5k pic.
Finally, my complete PHR army, probably bought because I have more money than sense. That and army of giant robots.
Still trying to decide the color scheme on them. Thinking maybe going for a bright scorpion green, contracting with black or red.
I know, I just love DZC's rule set. Its just so well thought out, and its both simple yet complex. The models are pretty nice as well. I think Scourge are my favorite so far, though PHR comes pretty close.
The rule book impressed me with the high quality of production, fluff and clarity. I haven't played the game yet, but I've already bought additional units for scourge and started kit bashing 1/144 scale kits for a counts as resistance force. However, the minis themselves are the real winner. Every single faction has its own style, looks great, and has far more hits than misses.
I have a friend who started playing Shaltari and I recommended him to use activation tokens, because he normally get confused on what he activated or not.
-Tokens for search turns of squads for intel.
-For the damage in buildings.
-For the damage in units.
-For units doing on the deck
Any tips for UCM vs Scourge? I play Scourge and have beaten my buddy 4-0. We are only using the 2 player starter on the starter scenario. I think he can beat me but so far he hasn't, but he wont listen to my advice lol. I get to the buildings first, and usually get lucky with the intel roll. 3 of the 4 games I was able to kill a drop ship carrying most or all of his infantry =). Maybe he will take advice from you guys, any tips for him? he seems to think the starter scenario is unwinnable for him.
Also, double check on the rules, can I really roll for intel and then abandon the building and haul ass into the transports? He says I can but it seems like its too powerful.
XvReaperXv wrote: Any tips for UCM vs Scourge? I play Scourge and have beaten my buddy 4-0. We are only using the 2 player starter on the starter scenario. I think he can beat me but so far he hasn't, but he wont listen to my advice lol. I get to the buildings first, and usually get lucky with the intel roll. 3 of the 4 games I was able to kill a drop ship carrying most or all of his infantry =). Maybe he will take advice from you guys, any tips for him? he seems to think the starter scenario is unwinnable for him.
Also, double check on the rules, can I really roll for intel and then abandon the building and haul ass into the transports? He says I can but it seems like its too powerful.
For what it's worth, the starter set / game uses the 'Objective' rules, not the 'Intel' rules - That completely changes the way you play the game. The starter game is more based on scenario 1, 'Targets of Opportunity' rather than scenario 2.
I think the UCM have 2 'good' plays in the starter game.
Either hug the skyscraper with the infantry APC carrier, dropping off one APC on the first turn to head off to the side building, keeping the other on board to either go for the middle, or try for the right. Alternatively, go straight up the middle, 18 inches, ready to drop all your infantry into the central building on turn 2.
The skyscraper in the UCM deployment zone is your friend. Hide your dropships beehind that is often helpful. Other than that, UCM fight best up to about 1/3rd of the way up the board, with good sight lines. UCM vehicles also fight best deploying in a 'Line astern' formation, due to various rules interactions (particularly line of sight and their special weapon rule).
On another note, here's my current PHR test model.
He's currently painted with dark angels green basecoat, then snot green.
What I'm probably going to go for though, is use Snot green as the basecoat, then Scorpion Green as the main layer (helpfully, Vallejo have a highlight colour for Scorpion).
Would it matter much if you were to put ground units on bases? My biggest concern is probably handling painted models - but is there a chance for misunderstandings, or worse, cheating, if they were based?
Beer_&_Bolters wrote: Would it matter much if you were to put ground units on bases? My biggest concern is probably handling painted models - but is there a chance for misunderstandings, or worse, cheating, if they were based?
So long as you always measure from the models, I cannot imagine anyone giving you grief. Plus, the game's terrain TENDS to be uncluttered, so they will be sitting flush, on flat surfaces, much of the time.
Just played 2 more games, 1 with my new PHR starter army. Seemed to have more trouble with them because im used to my scourge speed. Cant wait to get more units to be able to compete with ucm firepower wise. Seems like those aa tanks are the reason they are so tough. Their aa can kill my tanks, but my aa on the scourge and PHR cant damage a10. Still pulled out a win with the PHR coming down to kill points!
This game is crazy fun, can't believe it doesn't have a bigger following. The rules are dead simple but the tactical decisions really make this game shine more than any other wargame I have ever played!
XvReaperXv wrote: Just played 2 more games, 1 with my new PHR starter army. Seemed to have more trouble with them because im used to my scourge speed. Cant wait to get more units to be able to compete with ucm firepower wise. Seems like those aa tanks are the reason they are so tough. Their aa can kill my tanks, but my aa on the scourge and PHR cant damage a10. Still pulled out a win with the PHR coming down to kill points!
This game is crazy fun, can't believe it doesn't have a bigger following. The rules are dead simple but the tactical decisions really make this game shine more than any other wargame I have ever played!
1-Too many GW addicts that are still holding out hope and understandably want to use their models.
2-All that have left GW are spread to the wind for games, Infinity, Warmachine, DzC, etc.......
XvReaperXv wrote: Just played 2 more games, 1 with my new PHR starter army. Seemed to have more trouble with them because im used to my scourge speed. Cant wait to get more units to be able to compete with ucm firepower wise. Seems like those aa tanks are the reason they are so tough. Their aa can kill my tanks, but my aa on the scourge and PHR cant damage a10. Still pulled out a win with the PHR coming down to kill points!
This game is crazy fun, can't believe it doesn't have a bigger following. The rules are dead simple but the tactical decisions really make this game shine more than any other wargame I have ever played!
1-Too many GW addicts that are still holding out hope and understandably want to use their models.
2-All that have left GW are spread to the wind for games, Infinity, Warmachine, DzC, etc.......
1. I am a GW addict, or was. I dunno if its because im older or I have kids now, but i just cant wrap my head around the 40k rulebook anymore. I mean, waaayyyyy to much to remember. I did play a game with a buddy and hated it, each unit having 8-9 special rules on top of the weapon and moving rules for each different type, just not for me anymore. Loved it growing up though! AOS is really fun for me, nice easy way of putting models on the table and rolling dice, I mean, thats what its all about in the first place right?
Also the same reason why i love DZC. rules were learned in 1 game and now its just tactics. Even after about 10 games so far in 2 weeks, we feel like we haven't even scratched the surface on what we can do tactically. And hell this is just with 500 point armies! Gonna be playing this game for a long time!
Newb question inbound. All of one game under my belt.
At the start of a battle groups turn, could i embark a unit of tanks already within range of a dropship, fly the dropship's half move, and disembark said tanks?
Following that, does my dropship count as landed at the end of that move, since its gone the full distance and finished the move with a disembark?
At the start of a battle groups turn, could i embark a unit of tanks already within range of a dropship, fly the dropship's half move, and disembark said tanks?
Following that, does my dropship count as landed at the end of that move, since its gone the full distance and finished the move with a disembark?
Yeup! You've performed 1 embark move, 1 disembark move with all the involved units. That totals 2, which means it's a legal move. It's a common thing to do later in the game when your Anti Air tanks need an emergency reposition to stop someone flying off the board next turn.
The whole 'landing' thing can tend to get confusing. The language they've written was done so to prevent shenanigans. In reality, basically, you can choose to be landed or not, it's up to you (Just make it clear to your opponent).
If you're doing an embark/disembark, then the 2" reduction in Move isn't needed - the half move includes that (in our games, it's assumed that such an action automatically includes the dropship landing, then taking off again, unless we specify it's remaining grounded. It would be equally valid, however, to assume that a dropship stays landed unless you specifically point out it's taking off again).
If I land my aircraft, I take them off the flight bases, to make it clear. I've also got a vague idea of how to make the actual flight mode (normal or hitting the deck) obvious too.
Wow! Those are awesome. Really like the way the different colours work together. Especially the white stripes.
Where did you get that Homeworld ship, by the way?
Collector's of the Remastered Edition I presume, which makes me want to hate him and not at the same time, because I wanted one of those too but didn't have the money, and his army is so nice looking that I can't complain.
I love the idea of dropzone commander, and recently got a scourge starter set and some ucm models. The only disappointment is that the ucm conder dropships cant hold models!
A quick fluff query for my scourge- if the warriors have issues with constantly sweating and thirst, why do they wear heavy greatcoats? Cheers
You can make the condors hold the models. You just need to avoid gluing the turrets together and make sure that the holding 'arms' of it are angled inwards when you're gluing them together.
If it is particularly important to you, you can cut off the 'knob' on the top of the Hawk widget, put a magnet on it, then put another magnet on the underside of the middle tank on any of the 3 tank carriers.
Tailessine wrote: I love the idea of dropzone commander, and recently got a scourge starter set and some ucm models. The only disappointment is that the ucm conder dropships cant hold models!
A quick fluff query for my scourge- if the warriors have issues with constantly sweating and thirst, why do they wear heavy greatcoats? Cheers
Because their coat absorbs the sweat so they can drink it?
Tailessine wrote: I love the idea of dropzone commander, and recently got a scourge starter set and some ucm models. The only disappointment is that the ucm conder dropships cant hold models!
A quick fluff query for my scourge- if the warriors have issues with constantly sweating and thirst, why do they wear heavy greatcoats? Cheers
Pretty sure the long coats are justo o make them distinctive and the constant thirst is a reference to The Faculty.
We tried something different and used small buildings (from FoW I think) and played the bunker mission. A large part of the fight was around one bunker
which I think helped me get better as I thought more than just a step ahead.
