Welcome to the 14th Unofficial Painting Challenge here on Dakka! This month is the second in the 2016/17 round, so a perfect opportunity to join in and start racking up points early on!
The theme for this month's challenge is The Relic, which covers pretty much anything old and/or holy, from a war priest of Sigmar to a Space Marine Captain carrying one of his Chapter's ancient weapons, from a Malifaux Gremlin who's just stumblekd across some old and priceless loot to a crusading band of holy knights (of the historical, Bretonnian or Panoceanian variety, or any other version of the age-old theme)
How To Enter
- You may enter up to 5 MODELS as a SINGLE ENTRY, and are permitted one entry per member per month. If you enter multiple models, they should ideally be related in some way, such as part of the same squad, unit or scene if you are doing a diorama
- You MUST post a 'proof' picture of your entry in the thread of the state it was in before you started working on it; this must be either unassembled, unpainted, primed or coated a single colour. Entries that do not submit a valid Proof Picture will not be eligible for voting.
- After this, you may post WIP pictures in this thread and your own if you wish, and on completing the entry, you may post up to 5 final pictures IN THIS THREAD that will then be used for voting. Please note that pictures in a montage or collage picture will be considered individual images for this purpose, so while these types of presentation are certainly acceptable, please keep the image limit in mind when compiling them. For example, a collage of 4 images and one separate image would count as your 5 picture allowance.
So What Do I Win?
- Points... and points mean... bragging rights for the next month Following the vote, points will be awarded to every entrant. This year, the Points you receive will be equal to the Percentage of Votes your entry receives in the final Voting thread; if you get 10%, you get 10 points, if you get 6% you get 6 points, so on and so forth.
These points will be used to form a league table, which will be updated month on month as the results come in.
How Long Do I Have?
This challenge begins 1st April and will end at midnight GMT on the 30th April. After this, I shall compile the finished entries into a new thread, and voting will run for 5 days.
List of Entrants
Iechine: FINSHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Januine: FINSHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
SirOllox: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
ChaosDad: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
ssisal: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Ustrello: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Deadshot:
Spoiler:
Proof
TP^DC Deputy Manager: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Reavsie: FINSIHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
KINGPIN54: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
piratepizzadog: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Final
Kaptin Badrukk
Spoiler:
Proof
Loricatus Auroura: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
sockwithaticket: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
The Emperor's Wrath, Quad-Heavy Bolter Rapier preserved from the days of the Great Crusade. It's provenance prior to being awarded to the Segementum Pacificus Watch Station is unknown. For the last two centuries, an unprecedented period of service, Fists Examplar veteran Niels Goosen has tended to the relic machine lovingly, ensuring that it is as ready for war now as in the days when Primarchs lead their chapters to battle and operates it with consummate skill.
Zergsmasher: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
vejut: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Paradigm: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Wilson: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
final
Chief
Spoiler:
Proof
optometris: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Guildenstern: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
trob52: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Midget Gems:FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Moolet: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
final
Nevelon: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Nordicus: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Falienia:
Spoiler:
Proof
Brennonjw:
Spoiler:
Proof
GulGog TufToof: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
final
methebest: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
jah-joshua: :FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Keezus: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
First deployed in 430AR, the Berserker is the oldest Warjack model still in use. Obsolete by modern standards, it has continuously prowled the battlefields of Immoren for well over a century. If anything, while this relic of an earlier age is lacking in both the armor and the armament of its modern brothers, and age has made its cortex brittle - it makes up for this shortcomings through pure ferocity in battle.
reizingsun
Spoiler:
Proof
Zambro:FINSHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Littletower:
Spoiler:
Proof
Pneumo: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Jadenim: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Buttery Commissar
Spoiler:
Proof:
King Pariah: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
Final
Farseer Anath'lan: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
final
JBschroeds: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
final
[/spoiler]
Camkierhi: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof:
Final
spuj: FINISHED
Spoiler:
Proof
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp148/thealin/40k/92b3f5b3-fa5b-4eac-953e-1a947491090a_zps9chpb6ud.jpg[img]
final
Game on. I'm provisionally throwing in with Big Brother here but may substitute later as this guy is going to take a fair while to do. For now anyways - here the big fella's proof. I've spray primed him with chaos and leadbelcher sprays. Hope that's ok
My entry is a relic himself, an old priest with the true, unbreakable believe in the emperor.
He fights the enemys of the imperium with great anger and righteous fury to spread the light of the god emperor.
To follow Cypher im glad that I'm ready to present the ravenwings first interrogator chaplain, I forgot to take a picture of the before I started cutting and painting him. All his bits cept an arm got here past couple days. Painted and put him together and touched him up tonight.
So I don't forget and do it again. I am including my proofs for april now.
Company 5 dreadnought 1
Company 5 master balthasar
Company 1 deathwing terminator squad 10
Company 10 neophyte 1/117 progression of a dwarf into a dark angel.
The first minature I bought back in 1991(6th grade when thought had to beat 1st edition dnd to play ad&d) he's always been the dungeon msdter, least once a week since then)
I'm afraid I can't allow you to enter that mini then. It's great, and I recall being very impressed with it when you posted it a while back, but the challenges are for minis painted entirely within the month. Sorry, and please feel free to enter another model!
Decisions decisions. Part of me wants to paint up some capheract terminator armor from 30k, as such a ancient and venerable suit is a relic in it’s own right. The other part of me wants to drag out an actual relic; some old chunk of RT-era lead.
I guess I’ll just poke around the basement and see what grabs me.
I´m in.
My project this month is - as I said in the poll - a Warbos in MegaArmour. It´s coming along quite well and only needs the left leg to be done. To fit the theme, I´ll ad some gifts from Mork and Gork - they are something like holy to Orks so... it fits god damn it!!!
Proof will follow as soon as I finished the leg and rivets...
I'm afraid I can't allow you to enter that mini then. It's great, and I recall being very impressed with it when you posted it a while back, but the challenges are for minis painted entirely within the month. Sorry, and please feel free to enter another model!
As i sayd before, all i have is hand me down bitz from other people and a while bunch of snapfit tac marines, well here is my proof of my wip shot of my tacmarine convertion to chaplain, still alot of work to be done. But thats the challenge is it not.
I'm afraid I can't allow you to enter that mini then. It's great, and I recall being very impressed with it when you posted it a while back, but the challenges are for minis painted entirely within the month. Sorry, and please feel free to enter another model!
Ah sorry, i posted a miniature that i have painted the 26/3 so it doesn't count
If I take a week off in penitence, would you permit me to enter the Yarrick I literally painted half a face on for a previous challenge?
I can just paint over the face, but for the sake of half an hour, I thought I'd ask.
Buttery Commissar wrote:If I take a week off in penitence, would you permit me to enter the Yarrick I literally painted half a face on for a previous challenge?
I can just paint over the face, but for the sake of half an hour, I thought I'd ask.
Sounds fine to me, there's a difference between 'half a face' and 'most of the model was already painted'! That, and I want to see that Yarrick done!
piratepizzadog wrote:
Ah sorry, i posted a miniature that i have painted the 26/3 so it doesn't count
No worries, as before, if you have any other suitable minis you're more than willing to enter those!
Than i add this model, it's an old gal vorbak that i still trying to convert in a death guard praetor during the terminus est events, i hope it is fine
In a battle of Tyranids VS Orks, the "Dead Killy" Deff Dread fought the Hive Tyrant of Hive Fleet Whupass in a challenge, which he won by slaying the Hive Tyrant. Had he not done that, the Orks fighting for Warboss Gitsmaka would have been eaten by Hive Fleet Whupass. For this reason, he has been given a bosspole only da biggest and da best Warboss would have. The Orks respect the "Dead Killy" Deff Dread as if it were an idol of Gork and Mork.
I'm in with this:
It's a Dark Angels Interrogator-chaplain on a bike, holding the Mace of Redemption. Now all I need is a calm day to prime him...or I could do it with brush primer.
A squad of 30k Deathwing would count for this, right?
The best of a legion, armed and armoured with the finest Mars has to offer.
I'll doll them up to look the part.
Wargods of Aegyptus typhon harbringer of Set. In universe, a divinely empowered mortal follower of the god who goes around being all greek style heroic and excessive. Hoping to use it to work on my blending...
1) As you can see I put a little bit of silver on one of the tracks last week before the poll went up indicating this would be a viable entry. Is that ok? There's still loads of the model left to do and that bit is barely even a basecoat.
2) It's a model that doesn't actually come with a base, but I've already done one. Would it be ok to have it on the base in the final pictures or would I need to present it without?
Aces. Now let's see if I can actually get the damned thing done, given that the only entry I've made larger than a single infantry figure so far ended in failure.
Sounds good to me, those are suitable Old Skool by Imperial standards!
My entry last night:
And now:
Pretty darn pleased with this guy, sometimes a mini just goes 'right' and comes out exactly how I'd hoped it would! Obviously not final pics as there's more than 5, but I thought I'd get him out here anyway.
@SirOllox: Hah, I got my entry in on day one last month! I'm slacking this time! I do like to get my entries in early, better that than panicking at the end of the month as I have done a few times before!
Para, that's one cool mini and nice paintjob! I love your style, bro! No Candy-Marines here! You got my whole respect for that speedpainting, man. Thumbs up!
Damn. My uploads always seem to flip when I really don't want them too!
Anyway, here is the finished Voss Lightning for my Dark Mechanicum army finished ( and started) today!. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get some better pictures of it in action, strafing down some Iron hands.
@paradigm (and others) - So, I'm not 100% into 40k/30k I just love the models and anyway point being I don't have a lot of the books regarding this sort of thing. I want to finish maybe a Chaplain? I guess for my Luna Wolves which are obviously based on 30k and my question is, from the BAC box - which model is supposed to be or can be used as a generic chaplain? Also, did Luna Wolves *have* Chaplains then? I'm a little fuzzy on how all that works. If it won't work, either for the contest, or the army, I'll probably just do something for Frostgrave.
@paradigm (and others) - So, I'm not 100% into 40k/30k I just love the models and anyway point being I don't have a lot of the books regarding this sort of thing. I want to finish maybe a Chaplain? I guess for my Luna Wolves which are obviously based on 30k and my question is, from the BAC box - which model is supposed to be or can be used as a generic chaplain? Also, did Luna Wolves *have* Chaplains then? I'm a little fuzzy on how all that works. If it won't work, either for the contest, or the army, I'll probably just do something for Frostgrave.
Thanks
The guy with the staff/mace from the BaC box is very chaplain-esqe. A few of us painted him last month.
As for how historically accurate he’d be in the Luna Wolves, I have no idea.
That's the one, and yeah, he'd be fine fluff-wise, pretty much every Legion had Chaplains in the 30k period (though all the Traitors later get rid of them, bar the Word Bearers).
Building-phase nearly completed.
Just wanted to show the proof yet.
The Firewarrior is just for size comparisson Some more armourplates and rivetts and he's good to put some paint on it.
Hey Para, gonna post up my proof pictures tomorrow, but I am torn between two models, do I just post the proof of them both and then enter the one/ones that up finished at the end of the month?
Nevelon wrote: How did you do that burning blade? Both construction and painting?
Hi Nevelon
Bathroom silicone is the key, you can tease it up while drying.
Then prime it normally.
Painting start white then yellow then progressively less dry brush darker spectrum, tips at top of flame black.
Great effect and the stats on that weapon and its fluff, almost must have unless you points pinching.
Nevelon wrote: How did you do that burning blade? Both construction and painting?
Hi Nevelon
Bathroom silicone is the key, you can tease it up while drying.
Then prime it normally.
Painting start white then yellow then progressively less dry brush darker spectrum, tips at top of flame black.
Great effect and the stats on that weapon and its fluff, almost must have unless you points pinching.
Any chance you'd be willing to post up a video tutorial? I'm planning to build a captain pretty identical to yours, BB/SE/AI, and I'd like to be able to make it a feth-off cool fire effect like that
Good luck everyone. Another impressive model finished very quickly para, you are far too good at this.
My Proof
and what I'm aiming to make
Spoiler:
An Indiana Jones Ork (Indiorkana Jones?) with the Sankara Stones from the Temple of Doom.
Hes a relic hunter, they are relics stones, so fits the theme to me. I'll try to make the bridge if I have time.
Nevelon wrote: How did you do that burning blade? Both construction and painting?
Hi Nevelon
Bathroom silicone is the key, you can tease it up while drying.
Then prime it normally.
Painting start white then yellow then progressively less dry brush darker spectrum, tips at top of flame black.
Great effect and the stats on that weapon and its fluff, almost must have unless you points pinching.
I wonder if hot glue would work? That's what I thought you were using in the build pic.
OK, I need to stop dithering about on what to do. My entry is going to be at least one of the BaC terminators.
This is them from their prime pic. (Ignore the stalker/hunter) I’m going to try for the whole squad of 5, but don’t be surprised if only one of them makes it across the finish line.
Nevelon wrote: How did you do that burning blade? Both construction and painting?
Hi Nevelon
Bathroom silicone is the key, you can tease it up while drying.
Then prime it normally.
Painting start white then yellow then progressively less dry brush darker spectrum, tips at top of flame black.
Great effect and the stats on that weapon and its fluff, almost must have unless you points pinching.
I wonder if hot glue would work? That's what I thought you were using in the build pic.
OK, I need to stop dithering about on what to do. My entry is going to be at least one of the BaC terminators.
This is them from their prime pic. (Ignore the stalker/hunter) I’m going to try for the whole squad of 5, but don’t be surprised if only one of them makes it across the finish line.
Hot glue would probably work. Silicone is a pain to work with, the time you can work with it is very short so its either too floppy or hardened such that trying to tease up the flames results in you ripping great holes in your silicone.
Recommend testing on a bit of wire or stick first. Let us know how it goes?
Would love to show my progress, but FW is still showing my order as pending! Ordered it on friday, and I'm 95% sure it was in stock when I bought it... If it isn't updated tomorrow I'll have to get in touch to find out.
Some assembly WIPs. Progress is slow due to work and only just getting superglue 3 hours ago. It will get there eventually though, had this build in my head for 5 years and its finally coming to life!
Other side.. In second msg because im semi tech edumakated..
Notice here I went straight for the mithril silver. NEVER go straight for mithril, looks terrible. Will figure out a fix for that blade on the shield.. Not staying like that.
Jan the model looks fantastic and its not even finished yet great work as always.
Kustomer D that model is brilliant, I really like your conversions.
Not much in the way of progress on mine so far, in 5 days I've managed to glue 1 arm on and made an attempt at a Greenstuff Hat so still a long way to go >_<
Thank you, man. I hope he comes out as good as He's in my mind.
Maybe I should send it over to Jan - just imagine: a Januine-painted MegaArmourWarboss ...
Doesn't that sound awesome?
My bitz came, so... I'm in! I'm currently building a squad of tankbustas from a long forgotten planet, and one of 'em found a piece of tech dat's ten fousin years old:
Januine wrote: Mk7 for the emperor. Beakies need to be smelted
+1
-2 League Points to the both of you unless you repent and bow before the awesomeness that is MkVI Corvus Pattern armour! One can never had enough Beakies!
Darren Latham did a great job of sculpting the new Ulrik the Slayer model...
best digitally sculpted fur on any Space Wolves mini yet...
of course, in true form, I took a pic of the front of the chest, instead of the back where the amazing wolf skin hangs...
doh!!!
i'll have to get a shot of the back when I get to work on the cloak...
this time around, the experiment will be paint black by using washes over blue-grey...
we'll see how it goes...
Januine wrote: Mk7 for the emperor. Beakies need to be smelted
+1
-2 League Points to the both of you unless you repent and bow before the awesomeness that is MkVI Corvus Pattern armour! One can never had enough Beakies!
NEVER!!! Beakies are awful. The emperor refuses to get out of that sparkly chair till every last one is flung into the Eye!!
Januine wrote: Mk7 for the emperor. Beakies need to be smelted
+1
-2 League Points to the both of you unless you repent and bow before the awesomeness that is MkVI Corvus Pattern armour! One can never had enough Beakies!
NEVER!!! Beakies are awful. The emperor refuses to get out of that sparkly chair till every last one is flung into the Eye!!
That's because he's worried he will get poked in the eye
Januine wrote: Mk7 for the emperor. Beakies need to be smelted
+1
-2 League Points to the both of you unless you repent and bow before the awesomeness that is MkVI Corvus Pattern armour! One can never had enough Beakies!
NEVER!!! Beakies are awful. The emperor refuses to get out of that sparkly chair till every last one is flung into the Eye!!
Have to agree with Jan here...
Idk who thought they were a great idea, they look aweful :( If I were to only be able to have space marines with beakies I'd burn the lot
Fair point. I find usual bolters just too pokey! These seeker bolters struck a nerve with me, i love them. They look like I imagine bolters should look, not a 9mm submachine extended pistol like the standard bolters look.
Nevelon wrote: That’s it, I’m voting “Beakie” for next month’s challenge. You young whipper-snappers have no respect for your heritage.
I got the first layer of blues and gold down on two terminators. Will grab some pics later today.
well I guess we can poke each other to death...
I'm just waiting on my primer to dry! trying out black gesso as a paint on as I'm out of other primer for my airbrush (nothing available locally I always have to order it) I like it so far! Just... takes a bit longer to dry.
Here's my proof: Berserkers obsolete? Retire? IN SOVIET KHADOR, OBSOLETE WARJACKS RETIRE YOU!
Got to represent the fact that non GW models exist! On an aside, I'm a little aghast that the field is still almost 75% space marines, considering that we just had a month where space marines was the official topic!
Januine wrote: I remember getting the original cream plastic RT space marine box. I also remember taking a knife and a file to those beaks ........
I just spent 10 minutes explaining this to the wife after laughhing out loud in the middle of nowhere.
Every now and then an ebay purchase arrives and you open it up only to find someone elses beakie helmets tumble out onto your workbench in addition to what you actually purchased. The other person thinks they doing you a favour by giving you their beakie castoffs for free, thats my experience how beakies get swapped.
Nevelon a beakie challenge would actually be hilarious. We could all find an appropriatly dignified use of a beakie helmet. +1 vote for a beakie challenge please Para
I’ve got something like two dozen RTB01s in the simple green right now. Assuming my hands survive scrubbing them, I’ve got more then enough retro-goodness to bury all you non-believers!
For those who play Xenos armies, beakie helmets can be converted into CC weapons with minimum fuss.
I agree no flesh ssisal. When i read the thousand sons HH book and the space wolves were attacking no helmets that was the moment when i realised no marine world take their helmet off in an engagement.
If we did a beakie challenge I would do a marine with a broken beaked helmet looking at it with disbelief. Probably with some head damage, but otherwise with a defeated xeno despite the helm.
Januine wrote: Mk7 for the emperor. Beakies need to be smelted
+1
-2 League Points to the both of you unless you repent and bow before the awesomeness that is MkVI Corvus Pattern armour! One can never had enough Beakies!
NEVER!!! Beakies are awful. The emperor refuses to get out of that sparkly chair till every last one is flung into the Eye!!
Oh, no. Jan, we were getting along so well...
Best Space marine helmet hierarchy goes thusly:
1. Crusader
2. Mk. IV
3. Mk. VI 4. Mk. III with smooth face plates
5. Mk. V
6. Mk. VII
7. Mk. III
8. Mk. II
9. No helmet
Thank you, man. I hope he comes out as good as He's in my mind.
Maybe I should send it over to Jan - just imagine: a Januine-painted MegaArmourWarboss ...
Doesn't that sound awesome?
I've thought about that too, I can just about do conversions ok now but would be awesome to have someone like Jan or Para or Lechine (list goes on of good painters in this comp) paint it and bring it to its full potential.
Thought I do a quick WIP on Indianork Jones so far. Thanks Para I rely on you to name my creations
GS Hat done and bag created with stones, I could only fit 2 in on show, thinking i'll take a step into the unknown and may try some OSL with the stones. Hes also got a whip and pistol attached to his belt. I'm away with work for a few days this week so its undercoated now as well and I'll take a few paints with me.
Spoiler:
Pic of what I'm aiming for as a reference
Hat
P.S. I am a fan of beakies, if they lose all their weapons they can attack enemies with their face.
I present veteran dark talon pilot jaserial, shot down by necron forces; willing choose to enter the dreadnought corps. In this new ... body he has proven his skill on the field is still nothing to shake a stick at. He serves as first dreadnought of the 5th company.
NNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Had the same happen to me the other day but not nearly as badly as that. It is fixable but utterly gutwrenching when it happens
This is what passes for progress in my workshop; two weeks in and I finally have a decent proof picture. In my defense, it was tough to cleanly cut away all the wee beakie arms, dainty little beakie hands, and those ridiculous shoulder pads in order to get a proppa fit with a real arm. A little filing and greenstuff filling still to come.
On a more serious note, I'd like to play to the Relic theme this month, but I know nothing about the Horus Heresy. The idea is that this ork found this rocket launcher 10,000 years after it was made and it is still functioning. Any suggestions for a "period-specific" paint scheme? I plan on trying my hand at battle damage and weathering to make it look ancient, but I'd like some vestiges of the original paint (they do paint these things, right?) still showing. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind comments guys! This was one of those times (particularly with the book and flames) where the paint just went on spot on how I wanted straight off the brush.
Fortunately I had the self-control to go "that looks good, now walk away from the model!"
Beautiful work so far. Love that power-sword optometris. The script in that book and scroll is incredible Jadenim and I love the metals on the your necron TP^DC, great scheme.
I'm not sure i'll get much more chance to paint over the next 3 weeks, lots of things I need to do (wife is away and I've a son to take care of).
So here is my entry, if I get time I'll tidy him up a bit then i'll repost the images (the shoulder pad needs some corrections and the seals a little script, perhaps add a little more highlight to some of the reds.) This is my first black power armour and I was a little paranoid at how difficult the greys would be. Nuln oil saved me from much of the worst mistakes. Although simple and fairly standard colour scheme I couldn't bring myself to scuff up his armour. Maybe when I'm feeling a little braver I'll go back and make him a little more battle worn.
As usual I'd love to hear any critique =)
Here's a WIP of my biker Interrogator:
Still some cleanup to do of most of the colors, then it's on to the shading. I didn't have an extra skull helmet handy, so I improvised by painting a sort of skull outline on a regular SM helmet.
Moolet wrote: Beautiful work so far. Love that power-sword optometris. The script in that book and scroll is incredible Jadenim and I love the metals on the your necron TP^DC, great scheme.
I'm not sure i'll get much more chance to paint over the next 3 weeks, lots of things I need to do (wife is away and I've a son to take care of).
So here is my entry, if I get time I'll tidy him up a bit then i'll repost the images (the shoulder pad needs some corrections and the seals a little script, perhaps add a little more highlight to some of the reds.) This is my first black power armour and I was a little paranoid at how difficult the greys would be. Nuln oil saved me from much of the worst mistakes. Although simple and fairly standard colour scheme I couldn't bring myself to scuff up his armour. Maybe when I'm feeling a little braver I'll go back and make him a little more battle worn.
As usual I'd love to hear any critique =)
Any heat stress for the melta? It’s a bit of a disconnect to see such wonderful work done on the JP, but not on the gun renowned for the heat it kicks out.
Hi. thanks for the comments. I'm glad you like him. =)
Any heat stress for the melta
good point, Perhaps he is too busy hitting people over the head with oversized paper weight... I mean Relic. I think I'll go back and add some as you suggest, perhaps ill get it done before the end of April.. I hope so.
I'm not sure if it's dark pictures or if the PA needs brighter highlights.
The pics maybe a bit dark but I see what you mean. Perhaps I can be a little braver with some of the upper most highlights.
Nice work. Leave him clean. If nothing else he'll stand out more from the rest of the army. The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.
Finally ready to start. gotta finish by Friday though!
Automatically Appended Next Post: I was not ready. I have a severe cold and am shaking too much to huddle in a chair. Alas poor Yarrick, you'll have to wait for tomorrow.
Moolet - that is beautiful!
BC - be well, Yarrick can wait
Gulgog - great conversion! Paint it whatever you want and add some Ork graffiti, your fluff makes it fit the theme, so do what fits aesthetically
Zerg - nice biker, need to get on with mine, but too reluctant to work out how to do the Ravnewing black justice
Deadshot - Great first steps
sockwithaticket wrote: The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.
thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.
I was not ready. I have a severe cold and am shaking too much to huddle in a chair.
I'm sorry to hear it. I was like this 2 weeks ago, there's a nasty spring flu doing the rounds at the moment.
Alright guys, I feel like doing a sorcerer and could need the "pressure" to actually get stuff done.
Here's my proof picture, hope it's not to late to enter yet.
ssisal wrote: any words of advice or feedback for a rookie painter on the dreadnought I submitted on the bottom of page 6?
I know its not as dark grim as other folks stuff, but im going w a fresh paintjob look to imply pride in colours.
It’s hard to get a good look due to the pictures, unfortunately. I’d set him on a curved piece of paper, with as much light as you can muster (but not a flash). Brace your camera to avoid shakes. Don’t be afraid to snap a zillion pictures and just take the best. It’s not like we pay to develop film these days.
The silver could use a wash. Black/brown depending on the look you are going for. (I go black personally)
Golds do well with a brown wash, then a drybrush back with the gold. Gives it a nice, warm depth for very little work and only basic techniques.
It looks like you might need a little cleanup on the gold trim on the torso. Hard to tell with the pic though.
But overall a solid work. It looks like you mostly kept the paint where it belongs, picked out all the details, etc. A little wash/drybrush work would help define the detail a little bit more, and both of those are easy to learn techniques.
well, I would LOVE to say that I've done a lot to mine (to be fair I've done quite a bit) but I just can't stop working on the masses of infantry that I need to deal with Hopefully an update pic by the end of the day today
ssisal wrote: any words of advice or feedback for a rookie painter on the dreadnought I submitted on the bottom of page 6?
I know its not as dark grim as other folks stuff, but im going w a fresh paintjob look to imply pride in colours.
It’s hard to get a good look due to the pictures, unfortunately. I’d set him on a curved piece of paper, with as much light as you can muster (but not a flash). Brace your camera to avoid shakes. Don’t be afraid to snap a zillion pictures and just take the best. It’s not like we pay to develop film these days.
The silver could use a wash. Black/brown depending on the look you are going for. (I go black personally)
Golds do well with a brown wash, then a drybrush back with the gold. Gives it a nice, warm depth for very little work and only basic techniques.
It looks like you might need a little cleanup on the gold trim on the torso. Hard to tell with the pic though.
But overall a solid work. It looks like you mostly kept the paint where it belongs, picked out all the details, etc. A little wash/drybrush work would help define the detail a little bit more, and both of those are easy to learn techniques.
This.
The intensity of the light makes it really hard to see the colours.
If you use something to difuse the light, the pictures would be great. A piece of paper in front of the light would do the job. Alternatively, you can take a picture in the daylight.
In terms of the painting, what Nev said. What colours are the plasma coils? I can't really see, but I think it's green(?). It might be worth doing it another colour so it 'pops' against the green dread.
nevelon.
trying pitures in sun light these look the same to me. but maybe tis better for you all.
never done a wash, assume can find tutorial on youtube.
blackwash for silver.
brown wash for gold.
drybrush after to bring the color back to bright of paint colors.
zambo.
I figured brigter light would work best. I do all my painting after dark with either blue or green or white lights overhead. ill remember sunlight for pictures.
the plasma coils are two layers of decoart mithril silver, three layers decort of crystal green, then a four layers each of a trio of blends of folkart calypso sky + americana neon scorching yellow , final layer is americana glow in the dark(dryes clear)
Automatically Appended Next Post: Daylight photos hope they work better.
The chest thing is upside down, because he used to fly upsides down all the time. I have a fully painted pilot arms and torso and beat inside to represent him.
I remember discovering washing models.
Ssisal it will change the job competely. It will revolutionise your painting. You will never not wash after discovering wash.
I would recommend an older model, not your beautiful dread. Wash it competely with black or brown wash, recommend black. Wash should not need watering down but you can use a bit. Once you start cover 100% of the model in wash, then dont touch it till its completely dry. If you touch partially dry wash its usually a disaster.
Then once its dry as nev says drybrush the origional colour or metal back.
It will bring contrast and define your model.
Im a huge fan of washing. Give it a try on an old, painted model and see how you go.
ssisal wrote: nevelon.
trying pitures in sun light these look the same to me. but maybe tis better for you all.
never done a wash, assume can find tutorial on youtube.
blackwash for silver.
brown wash for gold.
drybrush after to bring the color back to bright of paint colors.
zambo.
I figured brigter light would work best. I do all my painting after dark with either blue or green or white lights overhead. ill remember sunlight for pictures.
the plasma coils are two layers of decoart mithril silver, three layers decort of crystal green, then a four layers each of a trio of blends of folkart calypso sky + americana neon scorching yellow , final layer is americana glow in the dark(dryes clear)
Automatically Appended Next Post: Daylight photos hope they work better.
The chest thing is upside down, because he used to fly upsides down all the time. I have a fully painted pilot arms and torso and beat inside to represent him.
sockwithaticket wrote: The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.
thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.
Cheers, man. It's nothing much to be honest. I make sure the white is down solid before doing any shading, then I'll go and put 70:30 valley game colour stonewall grey : vgc ghosty grey in the recess and layer up to pure ghosty grey, then layer from ghosty back to pure vallejo model colour white. The main thing is patience and super thin layers. That said, for things like a winged shoulder pad that method is way too fiddly and you don't really have the room to do it properly anyway, which is why whatever deity there is caused vallejo to make a pale grey wash. Add a touch of white, a bit of matte medium and apply thin coats to taste before highlighting with white. Works a charm.
@Buttery I'm laughing more at your WIP picture than I should... plus the 13 posts in the couple of hours between you posting the OP and editing it... haha
Guildenstern wrote: @Buttery I'm laughing more at your WIP picture than I should... plus the 13 posts in the couple of hours between you posting the OP and editing it... haha
Because Yarrick was in last month's but only got his face did, I wanted to show there wasn't any monkey business. I'm not cultured enough to have the day's paper.
I'm forcing myself to do the base carefully at the moment. Painted that ork flesh and highlights four times now... not that it even shows in the photo.
sockwithaticket wrote: The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.
thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.
Cheers, man. It's nothing much to be honest. I make sure the white is down solid before doing any shading, then I'll go and put 70:30 valley game colour stonewall grey : vgc ghosty grey in the recess and layer up to pure ghosty grey, then layer from ghosty back to pure vallejo model colour white. The main thing is patience and super thin layers. That said, for things like a winged shoulder pad that method is way too fiddly and you don't really have the room to do it properly anyway, which is why whatever deity there is caused vallejo to make a pale grey wash. Add a touch of white, a bit of matte medium and apply thin coats to taste before highlighting with white. Works a charm.
Thanks, for the tips I'll try something similar. I've 10 death company to do in the next couple of months so getting it right is pretty important for me.
I've not got those particular paints but I'll try to convert it across to GWs line, or would you say they are not equivalent? If so perhaps its time for me to invest in some new brands. =) Thanks again for the advice.
@methebest: the warsmith looks great.. very gritty!
I remember discovering washing models.
Ssisal it will change the job competely. It will revolutionise your painting. You will never not wash after discovering wash.
This. It really does help theres a reason people call it talent in a bottle/pot. It adds a lovely level of contrast. On my orks, if its a quick job I just basecoat their clothes then a carefully placed wash and its so much better than just a base coat. With a nice piece like your dreadnaught. You can either clean-up after the wash with a drybrush.. very good for metallic but I find not so nice for most other colours (dependent on the effect you want) or just tidy up all the most prominent surfaces with your base colour. This is more time consuming I find but if done carefully and with a bit of though this alone makes the model quite striking. For added definition of the all the details add an edge highlight (a lighter tone of your base, or your base colour with a little white added) and you'll have a great looking model.
never done a wash, assume can find tutorial on youtube.
blackwash for silver.
brown wash for gold.
My favourite way to do steel type metals is base in a dark silver (lead belcher), then wash first black quite heavily, then once completely dry brown (I use nuln oil and agrax earthsahde). The metal will look really gunked up. Then do a light drybrush of the leadbelcher again and any really worn or scratch areas use a little rune fang steel as an edge highlight. The more of the leadbelcher you drybrush back on the more new your steel will look. So for orks I do it very lightly, just the edge really, marines a little more heavily.
sockwithaticket wrote: The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.
thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.
Cheers, man. It's nothing much to be honest. I make sure the white is down solid before doing any shading, then I'll go and put 70:30 valley game colour stonewall grey : vgc ghosty grey in the recess and layer up to pure ghosty grey, then layer from ghosty back to pure vallejo model colour white. The main thing is patience and super thin layers. That said, for things like a winged shoulder pad that method is way too fiddly and you don't really have the room to do it properly anyway, which is why whatever deity there is caused vallejo to make a pale grey wash. Add a touch of white, a bit of matte medium and apply thin coats to taste before highlighting with white. Works a charm.
Thanks, for the tips I'll try something similar. I've 10 death company to do in the next couple of months so getting it right is pretty important for me.
I've not got those particular paints but I'll try to convert it across to GWs line, or would you say they are not equivalent? If so perhaps its time for me to invest in some new brands. =) Thanks again for the advice.
Couldn't say to be honest, I've barely any familiarity with the current generation of GW paints. I'm a strong advocate of having ghosty grey in your paint rack, though. It's great for adding to stuff tp make vibrant highlights that aren't quite as strong as if you'd used white, but less muted than if you'd used a bone colour. Given how pale it is it covers really well over dark colours in my experience which makes it a useful base coat option.
If washing makes everything so dark (i dont have ink.. ill pick up some brown/black at game store when i go pick up my order this weekend)
Im a little worried. I want all of my weapons and men and vehicles too to look like their armor was newly painted, not dingy and battle worn. Pride in Colours is very much a thing for these guys.. so i dont want to wash all the color out. Ill try it on a tactical bolter guy this weekend.
Just because the last model succumbed to the foggy Matt varnish treatment :( I'll throw this beast in to the mix as its pretty much ready for paint and will give me a push to get it done, I only started assembling it 18-24 months ago.
ssisal wrote: If washing makes everything so dark (i dont have ink.. ill pick up some brown/black at game store when i go pick up my order this weekend)
Im a little worried. I want all of my weapons and men and vehicles too to look like their armor was newly painted, not dingy and battle worn. Pride in Colours is very much a thing for these guys.. so i dont want to wash all the color out. Ill try it on a tactical bolter guy this weekend.
just bring it back up slightly with a layer of the basecoat, it gives the first basecoat layer that nice illusion of depth in all the right places, it's not just about changing the colour or trying to darken it anyway.
You could also do a much more precise wash, just on areas of deep recesses, around bits that stick out, along edges next to a trim piece for instance - that way you don't have to re apply more basecoat but you do take a bit more time since you don't want the wash just all over.
tbh thought I've seen with most colours very little difference if you just basecoat, wash, first highlight, second highlight - skipping the second base coat or a more careful wash. Maybe on a really light colour there's more difference.
Anyway, just some thoughts! Good luck however you go about it
Alright guys, I made it! Quite happy with it myself (mainly with the fact that I went from assembly to finished without it standing on my desk for days or weeks).
So here we go, the finished Chaos Sorcerer with a custom display base. I'll probably put some more detail onto the base at some point, for now I'm happy with it tho. He's also magnetized onto it so that he can also fit onto his normal base for games.
Well I currently have Rapier's gun carriage done and have come up with an alternate MK. III crewman to either of those actually supplied with the model. I've decided he'll be one of Dorn's sons, but haven't quite decided what flavour yet as I don't want too many first founding chapters in my Deathwatch force, but have already done a Crimson Fist, Executioner and Black Templar.
The painting process so far has large been a barrage of expletives and yearning for it to be a plastic kit. My love of sharp, precise highlights is not assisted in any way by the imperfections of resin.
@Paradigm Thanks It's the color scheme of my Khorne Deamonkin army, first model to have it on "power armor" tho. I'm building him some friends right now
Looking forward to seeing your chaplain, I bet it'll fit right in with all the other beautiful models posted here.
Hi sock&ticket. I think the French call this 'incredäbööl'
Beautiful work! Hear you about clean lines and resin. Rest assured the results are worth the effort. Hats off to you, stick with it.
sockwithaticket wrote: Well I currently have Rapier's gun carriage done and have come up with an alternate MK. III crewman to either of those actually supplied with the model. I've decided he'll be one of Dorn's sons, but haven't quite decided what flavour yet as I don't want too many first founding chapters in my Deathwatch force, but have already done a Crimson Fist, Executioner and Black Templar.
The painting process so far has large been a barrage of expletives and yearning for it to be a plastic kit. My love of sharp, precise highlights is not assisted in any way by the imperfections of resin.
18 hours of work, on this model you could easily triple that and still find more to do. Five were spent on Archaon himself.
More pics, it's going to be hard to whittle it down to 5 for such a big model, but I'll take some more specific ones before the end of the month. Plus I can always do more to the model if I get the urge.
Thanks man, there are two charred skulls at least I had animal bones but no people bones, gotta get restocked.
It was a big model for me, as I'm now in my 3rd year of painting and it feels really good to look at the stuff I did 3 years ago and put it right next to this, I feel better about my abilities even though a lot of stuff
on this did not work out the way I wanted.
ZergSmasher wrote: Iechine, that Archaon model is amazing! Makes my efforts look like the work of a caveman with a stick.
I am a caveman with a stick. :(
Automatically Appended Next Post: @Iechine: Your model looks great! I've got a couple of suggestions related to the base however:
1. That lip around the "scenic rock" is kind of distracting, as it suggests an unwanted separation between the model and the base. My gut feeling is greenstuffing away that lip will improve the overall composition.
2. The ruined column is a great touch - however I think that it needs some more grey rubble nearby. I like how you made the column only charred on one side.
^ I agree about the lip, unfortunately its actually magnetized to his base. I have considered greenstuffing it up to seal it, but then I'd have to reseat the magnets. But its up for consideration.
How about these:
Squad Assault: entry must be a squad of models that all go together, like a Space Marine Tactical Squad or a mob of Ork Boyz
Aerial Assault: entry must be some kind of model that can fly or jump a great distance. A flyer or model wearing a jet pack would be good examples.
Supernatural: entry must be some kind of supernatural entity like a demon, angel, ghost, or other such thing that basically ignores the normal laws of physics (perhaps even superheroes would count).
I See Better From A Distance: entry must be equipped with a long-range weapon, like a sniper rifle, longbow, etc.
I think ZergSmasher's topics are good ones: I also feel that the topic choices should provide a rough idea of what might fit into the category without a lengthy description of what the originator was thinking. I honestly think this gives one more creative leeway as interpretation is up to the submitter. example: ZergSmasher's topics with more generic names might be:
1. Band of brothers
2. I fly the friendly skies
3. The supernatural
4. The marksman
IMHO, I think that every month should have: Something "insert color here" as a choice (or in the case of an awareness month: an option for bonus points). If chosen, every model entered should use that color as a major component. e.g. October: Breast Cancer Awareness Month: Something Pink. April could have been: Something Blue for Autism Awareness.
how about a "hey thats not yours" or "you dont belong here" theme? A model thats out of place or using a weapon or attire that is not his.like the female option even though i dont own any.
KINGPIN54 wrote: how about a "hey thats not yours" or "you dont belong here" theme? A model thats out of place or using a weapon or attire that is not his.like the female option even though i dont own any.
I am now picturing a squad of 5 Ultramarines, except one Ultramarine is actually an ork holding an UM cutout in front of him.
KINGPIN54 wrote: how about a "hey thats not yours" or "you dont belong here" theme? A model thats out of place or using a weapon or attire that is not his.like the female option even though i dont own any.
I am now picturing a squad of 5 Ultramarines, except one Ultramarine is actually an ork holding an UM cutout in front of him.
KINGPIN54 wrote: how about a "hey thats not yours" or "you dont belong here" theme? A model thats out of place or using a weapon or attire that is not his.like the female option even though i dont own any.
I am now picturing a squad of 5 Ultramarines, except one Ultramarine is actually an ork holding an UM cutout in front of him.
lmao that'd be awesome!
Someone get Midget Gems or Kustomer D on that one pronto!
Keep the suggestions coming, I'll do the poll some time tomorrow so the more I have to pick from/adapt the better!
Reavsie: Looks like your camera is having trouble getting the whole model into focus in a couple of your final pictures. You can get a better effect if you draw the camera back so that more of the model can be in focus and then crop your photos down.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
KINGPIN54 wrote: how about a "hey thats not yours" or "you dont belong here" theme? A model thats out of place or using a weapon or attire that is not his.like the female option even though i dont own any YET
@Kingpin: I feel you there. I have way too many models in my backlog. There's a few items in the Toughest Girls line I would like to put paintbrush to...
Is it still ok to enter Paradigm, and if so with this chap? If not no worries.
Dang. Hopefully they make that dude available separate, as his box got discontinued.
He comes in the new heros box with I believe the Strike Force Ultra TermiCap, and the one that came with the other strike force (Shadowhammer or something like that) that'll be released this weekend.
He comes in the new heros box with I believe the Strike Force Ultra TermiCap, and the one that came with the other strike force (Shadowhammer or something like that) that'll be released this weekend.
All looking pretty amazing....................And with that in mind I humbly present my entry......do heads count as relics! If not he is a relic himself, left over from a by gone era.
No way the Thanatar is gonna be finished this month. Spent too much time on other stuff. Lol. So my 'relic' is going to be one of the revered tech priests of Achlys III. Now that the ruststalkers are finished I've managed to make a bit of progress on him. Proof n WiP photos here we are
Someone get Midget Gems or Kustomer D on that one pronto!
hahah set the challenge and I'm sure I can give it a go with the right theme.
I quick WIP shot of mine (terrible photo), base colours on, needs layers, washing and highlights now. The bridge is looking less likely now but still a possibility depending on how this week goes.