Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Can any resin experts help shed light on why so many miscast resin models also have those pink materials on them?

If i havnt remembered wrong , thats part of the molding?
what reasons would they have for falling apart for something so new?

1/3 of complex models are miscasts. Simpler models are better.

There is a moderate improvement over metal in terms of ease of assembly because Super Glue fixes parts very quickly and you don't have to pin.

As for pricing, I never bought a Hive Tyrant in metal because it was too heavy. I like the light weight and I could deal with the construction issues in the resin version. Even so it is too expensive.

Your mileage may vary, as they say.

LunaHound wrote:Can any resin experts help shed light on why so many miscast resin models also have those pink materials on them?

If i havnt remembered wrong , thats part of the molding?
what reasons would they have for falling apart for something so new?

GW say their models don't need washed unlike Forgeworld. Surely that means they're not using some sort of mould release which leads to easier tearing?
That's what I've heard anyway.

Thorgut wrote:

LunaHound wrote:Can any resin experts help shed light on why so many miscast resin models also have those pink materials on them?

If i havnt remembered wrong , thats part of the molding?
what reasons would they have for falling apart for something so new?

GW say their models don't need washed unlike Forgeworld. Surely that means they're not using some sort of mould release which leads to easier tearing?
That's what I've heard anyway.

If thats true, then i dont really understand.

Washing is not a big deal at all ( easier than removing the flash and filling bubbles )
so why not use release agents so the mold dont take abusive tearing?

Kilkrazy wrote:The main thing that shocked me was the prices:

Zoanthrope = £15.50
Hive Tyrant = £36

I knew about this before I went in the shop and I still got a considerable “sticker shock” when I picked up the package.

So I’m afraid there will be no Finecast Hive Tyrant for me. I shall convert one of my secondhand eBay Carnifexes and save £20.

This was my impression, too! They look OK, some work needed, but it's not a deal-breaker... however, the price does put some things out of range.

I just bought a metal carnosaur for the price reason... only saved $22 or so, but still- that's almost a box of hellions/reavers...

Kilkrazy wrote:1/3 of complex models are miscasts. Simpler models are better.

There is a moderate improvement over metal in terms of ease of assembly because Super Glue fixes parts very quickly and you don't have to pin.

As for pricing, I never bought a Hive Tyrant in metal because it was too heavy. I like the light weight and I could deal with the construction issues in the resin version. Even so it is too expensive.

Your mileage may vary, as they say.

Okidoki.
Just wondering something isnt tyrant a hybrid kit? some plastic arms and resin body? If so you still have to pin those...

LunaHound wrote:Can any resin experts help shed light on why so many miscast resin models also have those pink materials on them?

If i havnt remembered wrong , thats part of the molding?
what reasons would they have for falling apart for something so new?

Not claiming to be an expert.

The pink stuff is part of the mold. FW stuff have blue mold parts stuck on it sometimes.
It happens when you have undercuts and small areas. My Buzzgob Mek from Forgeworld had a ton of the mold stuck to various parts of his torso. My FC Ghazkull had some of it under his feet between the "spikes".

You dont get releasing agents on the cast so you can prime without washing... yet you get chunks of the mould... buy enough minis and you have free mould

I was reading the finecast stuff in WD .. I think it said something like you don't need to wash them.. then a sentence or so later, some pieces might need to be washed. So, my suggestion would be to at least soak em for a little while in soapy water just to be safe.

I bought a FW hellhound way back when and didn't know about the washing thing, my paint kept beading up in some parts as I was painting it, drove me crazy. Spray primer didn't stick there either. So now I just wash any kind of resin first just in case. It's really not that big of a deal to me, just another step.

Yup Necros I was being a bit sarcastic... I wash metals, plastics and if someone tells me no need to do that in any form of resin I will just giggle

NAVARRO wrote:

Kilkrazy wrote:1/3 of complex models are miscasts. Simpler models are better.

There is a moderate improvement over metal in terms of ease of assembly because Super Glue fixes parts very quickly and you don't have to pin.

As for pricing, I never bought a Hive Tyrant in metal because it was too heavy. I like the light weight and I could deal with the construction issues in the resin version. Even so it is too expensive.

Your mileage may vary, as they say.

Okidoki.
Just wondering something isnt tyrant a hybrid kit? some plastic arms and resin body? If so you still have to pin those...

The display model in the window had a plastic heavy venom cannon. I don't know if that is part of the kit or a conversion the staff did.

I never washed metals though... do you need to? I never really had any issues, I even have some old metals that I never sprayed with varnish or anything and the paint jobs are still fine.

Necros wrote:I never washed metals though... do you need to? I never really had any issues, I even have some old metals that I never sprayed with varnish or anything and the paint jobs are still fine.

Yes you do mate, specially after all the filling and cleaning is done, the last thing you want is metal dust deposited on the details before you prime

Sorry to divert your ongoing discussion slightly - but has anyone had a go at painting up the new WE Noble/Orion resin minis?

I wouldn't mind giving it a go...but not sure if I should bother yet!

NAVARRO wrote:

Necros wrote:I never washed metals though... do you need to? I never really had any issues, I even have some old metals that I never sprayed with varnish or anything and the paint jobs are still fine.

Yes you do mate, specially after all the filling and cleaning is done, the last thing you want is metal dust deposited on the details before you prime

Yeah, it's one of those things that you probably don't need to do. Until you do.

Not every model is going to have enough mold release to make a difference, but a good clean surface will help your paint/primer go on more evenly and your glues to adhere better. It'd stink to unnecessarily have paint job marred, or a limb with a weak bond break off.

Kilkrazy wrote:

NAVARRO wrote:
Okidoki.
Just wondering something isnt tyrant a hybrid kit? some plastic arms and resin body? If so you still have to pin those...

The display model in the window had a plastic heavy venom cannon. I don't know if that is part of the kit or a conversion the staff did.

I'd imagine so. The HT on the GW website has all of its plastic limbs and the limbs for the old metal one were plastic as well. It's just the Tyranid Monstrous Arms sprue. So yes, a resin body and plastic arms.

Here's a link to my preview/review of some Dark Eldar Finecast models I purchased this weekend. I got an Archon, Succubus and a unit of Incubi. Overally they looked good with no bubbles/miscasts on the Archon and Succubus. For the Incubi, there was a slight bubble/miscast on the one pose (2 models from same mold) the left shoulder and nearby cloth had a bubble. But it was small and nothing a little green stuff fill in shouldnt fix.

Here's the link to my blog (there are many more picts there):

http://empireoftheeasternfringe.blogspot.com/2011/05/finecast-preview.html

I'm not very happy with my Black Orc Big Boss. Too bad I didn't look at it close enough and already have a coat of primer and a wash on it. If I could take it back, I would.

I thought the quality of casting would be similar to that of alpine miniatures which are what i would call 'fine cast miniatures' (see pictures bellow of a 54mm Russian tank commander) these models are not much bigger than GW figures, in fact the faces and hands are the same size as GW minis but they don't have the silly midget bodies. as you can see the casting is wonderful.. they cost about £8 to £9 each, so less than the citadel minis. and all flash and most of the sprues have been removed and the quality of the resin and sculpting is phenomenal. my DP is of a German WWII tank commander who is about 5-6cm tall and by alpine miniatures.



so as i was saying i was hoping that GW would bring out something of similar quality and price, but no, they haven't. the quality is very poor with many miss-casts and way WAY overpriced.. as i'm sure you can guess resin is much cheaper than white metal so it's beyond me why poorer quality models made of a cheaper material are more expensive.. i guess that GW for you


BOYCOTT GAMES WORKSHOP i joke but it would have been nice if they had brought out some more top notch minis.. like the space hulk ones :/


some of my non-GW resin minis.. it's a shame fine cast wasn't like this..

anyway that's my anti GW rant over

Instead of posting pictures that are side by side comparisons of the finecast and metal, why not paint them both flat black and then take the pictures? Surely any extra detail on the finecast models would be more apparent if they were both painted the same?

I popped into my local GW today to have a look at this new Finecast stuff and I must say I'm impressed, the detail on some of the models is absolutely fantastic, particularly some of the LOTR models which look uncannily like the actors in the films (Thedoen and Saruman especially). I picked up a WHFB Dwarf Lord as a painting project simply because the beard is incredible. Assembly was a breeze. Admittedly I did have to fill a couple of holes with greenstuff but it was literally a 5 minute job (including tracking down my greenstuff).

Of course there are some negatives, namely the prices and the fact that there were some miscasts on the shelves. None of them were really bad thought just the usual minor bubbles or slightly bent bits both of which are easy to fix. Although talking to the manager I did discover that there were a few more serious miscasts discovered on Saturday.

Another downside for me is the limited range but I can completely understand why it's so small at the moment. I just wish that they'd put more Dark Elf stuff beyond an Assassin and the Bolt Thrower in the first wave.

Overall I'm impressed by the models but disappointed with QA and the limited range. Hopefully those disappointments will change soon.

Just to balance out the GW love in that this post has nearly become, I also went to a local indie store and bought a Protectorate of Menoth Knights Exemplar squad box to satiate my rapidly growing interest in Warmahordes (hurry up PP I want my starter deal!!!!).

nectarprime wrote:I'm not very happy with my Black Orc Big Boss. Too bad I didn't look at it close enough and already have a coat of primer and a wash on it. If I could take it back, I would.

Yeah, this is the impression I had of the same model. The body and axe look good, which is what was facing "out" on the clear side of the blister for each one (there were 4 in stock). But the head and shield are behind, and the shield came out a bit subpar on mine. Not sure if this is usual for this model or not... just wanted to note that I got the same feeling from it.

By contrast, the only other resin model I have is the manticore/lamassu from Raging Heroes... and I don't see any of the issues I'm seeing on the finecast... particularly the "rough" edges. It's very smooth, unlike the parts I'm unsatisfied with on the finecast.

The failure rate that GW will report through returns is primarily based on their largest consumer group - ie young lads.

Lads that don't know how to spot a miscast.

At Warhammer World, to my standards (I generally accept FW casts as fine enough to work with, unless badly warped) I estimated around a 80 - 90% failure rate for the blisters on the shelf that I examined. I'm not adverse to doing some work, but frankly this is f*cking ridiculous.

RiTides wrote:

nectarprime wrote:I'm not very happy with my Black Orc Big Boss. Too bad I didn't look at it close enough and already have a coat of primer and a wash on it. If I could take it back, I would.

Yeah, this is the impression I had of the same model. The body and axe look good, which is what was facing "out" on the clear side of the blister for each one (there were 4 in stock). But the head and shield are behind, and the shield came out a bit subpar on mine. Not sure if this is usual for this model or not... just wanted to note that I got the same feeling from it.

By contrast, the only other resin model I have is the manticore/lamassu from Raging Heroes... and I don't see any of the issues I'm seeing on the finecast... particularly the "rough" edges. It's very smooth, unlike the parts I'm unsatisfied with on the finecast.

That's funny, cuz the shield looks fine on mine but the axe has a crap surface. I picked up that GK character Crowe or whatever his name is and besides his sword being a little bent his quality is superb. Pic with wash still wet.

Kilkrazy wrote:

CMDante wrote:

Kilkrazy wrote:
How about a scan of your certificate of provenance?

Lol, I'd like to assume thats a joke but since I suspect you may be serious...



Incase you can't see, it was 306 of 750.

Why on Earth did you accept it?

If you're happy with parts in that bad condition it doesn't say much for accepting Finecast.

Lol, why not just admit you were wrong rather than keep trying to find a new angle?

I could have complained and asked for a replacement, but:

a) it's nothing I can't handle and didn't expect from a resin cast
b) the worst of the miscast is at a complicated joining between surfaces of this part of the model which I imagine was likely miscast to some extent across a large number of the models.

This has nothing to do with finecast. The finecast figure I have has one tiny imperfection so why would I be outraged with it? It's a pretty poor attempt to attack both my standards and the range that your trying to go with here really. Take a breath, check your attitude and try to accept that we have different opinions obviously yes?

Clearly we do have different attitudes.

I certainly wouldn't accept a special edition model in that kind of state.

Only a few times have I seen such a bad model in resin, plastic or metal, and I've been buying wargame figures since the mid 70s.

I stopped in at my FLGS yesterday (Memorial Day), and they had a number of the Finecast character blisters sitting on display on the counter. I picked up a couple of the blisters to inspect the contents. I didn't see any obvious problems (keeping in mind that I was looking at the contents of a closed blister, and so couldn't examine things too carefully), and the detail looked good. On the other hand...

One of the blisters was an Eldar Autarch with Hawk Wings. And those wings looked like they'd snap very easily.

One of the blisters was an Eldar Autarch with Hawk Wings. And those wings looked like they'd snap very easily.

They won't. the Finecast resin is quite flexible, almost spongy. I've already seen swords bent nearly 90 degrees without breaking and then return to original shape immediately. In the 39 pages of posts here already surely someone must have already mentioned the flexibility? Or perhaps it's just that at 39 pages long no one has the patience or time to read through all of the junk to find the good stuff? I know I wouldn't do it.

Between me and my son we have 3 Finecast models already. We have no problems with ours, though I've certainly seen some. Overall, I'm happy about the move away from metal. It's a huge change and massive product roll-out all at once, thousands of items to thousands of dealers and distributors. There were bound to be some glitches. The question is, how long will it take GW to work out the kinks?

BrassScorpion wrote:

One of the blisters was an Eldar Autarch with Hawk Wings. And those wings looked like they'd snap very easily.

They won't. the Finecast resin is quite flexible, almost spongy. I've already seen swords bent nearly 90 degrees without breaking and then return to original shape immediately. In the 39 pages of posts here already surely someone must have already mentioned the flexibility? Or perhaps it's just that at 39 pages long no one has the patience or time to read through all of the junk to find the good stuff? I know I wouldn't do it.

On the contrary, one of the posts that I read today mentioned something about Ghazzy's bosspole simply snapping with little resistance. He went on to say that it glued back on very well, though. Edit: here we go:

Archroy wrote: My only complaint is regards the GW claim that Finecast is more resilient than metal, since I managed to snap his Bosspole (without, I thought, a lot of force being applied. And no I wasn't stress testing it, it was an accident...). On the plus side it did glue back on with no problems and is pretty sound now...

I've read nearly every post and there are very few (if any) good ones that simply state, "I am happy with this product." Rather than, "I am happy with this product, but. . ."

If someone broke their "bosspole", they must have been really trying to do it. All my experience with it so far is that it's very flexible, not brittle. That includes my own purchases plus numerous purchases of friends during the past few days. That doesn't mean it's impossible to break though. In other words, don't be "stupid" or careless with it, especially at those prices.

Oh, and breaking your bosspole sounds very serious, maybe a doctor should look at that.