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Does anyone know if it is better to paint large areas with contrast, with a large brush or smaller brushes? which style of brush is best (from GW) (Base/Layer/Dry)?

 ZenBadger wrote:
Its not just GW, all companies hype their products. They are in business to make money

At least previous campaigns had cooler illustrations:

 AduroT wrote:

 Overread wrote:

 AduroT wrote:
The Contrast bases still aren’t a primer though, right?

The two new contrast based sprays are primers and are designed to be used instead of the regular white or black primers. Their main property is that they go on with a much smoother finish whilst the traditional white is a much more coarse finish on the model. The contrast paint basically wants to flow over the surface, letting it stretch out on the raised areas and pool in the recesses; so a coarse undercoat wouldn't let it flow as well to achieve its best appearance. Though I'd wager you could get a similar effect, you just might have to mess with it a lot more on the model with the brush. Even with a smooth undercoat you appear to still need some brush control and to move it around a bit to get a good result - more so on open areas.

Last I knew the black and the white weren’t primers, just paint. Are they, and the wraithbone and grey seer, actual primer or just basecoats?

It depends on choice my local GW staff refers to abbadon black and corax white as proper primers and recommend using those 1st then adding another layer of color even from rattlecans (like leadbelcher,retributor, averland and such) and the new Grey seer and Wraithbone should be the *contrast* primers over plastic before adding contrast.

I have used Leadbelcher as primer and never had an issue so far ( must admit it's mostly for terrain structures) and i can say for sure the new contrast primers can cover quite nicely a previous primed mini with abbadon Black without covering the details and can be worked with should you want to use contrast in previous primed minis.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

Quite possibly one of the worst things I have seen written on the internet , and putting "IMO" doesn't excuse it.

 Fabio Bile wrote:
Very light undercoats have the advantages of best showing off the Contrast effect, and being usable with any colour. But it gives this pastel look to the highlights that I'm not digging at all.

I'm hoping that different undercoat colours can get richer and more dynamic results. It'll take more thought and effort, especially if you want to use more than one Contrast colour on the mini. But if I can just get the base and shade done in one coat that's still good news for army painting.

I'm looking forward to using the contrast paint over medium to medium light tone colors instead of the very light colors GW is using. Hoping it will give more color depth than the "watercolor" look.

T

A 15 minute Cadian



This took a minute to wash all over with Aggaros Dunes, a 20 minute dry while I had a bite to eat then a further 14 minutes to paint the rest and base. Not too happy with the base but the contrast paints are good for a quick tabletop standard job. I am going to spend another 10 minutes giving it a quick drybrush, highlighting the metal and painting the face properly but apart from that I'm happy with the result.

That Cadian paint job isn't too bad at all. Was that straight out of pot contrast or did you use any of the medium?

 ZenBadger wrote:
A 15 minute Cadian

Spoiler:

This took a minute to wash all over with Aggaros Dunes, a 20 minute dry while I had a bite to eat then a further 14 minutes to paint the rest and base. Not too happy with the base but the contrast paints are good for a quick tabletop standard job. I am going to spend another 10 minutes giving it a quick drybrush, highlighting the metal and painting the face properly but apart from that I'm happy with the result.

Thats just a good looking miniature with what sounds like minimal effort, tho I assume still some decent skill in brush control.

Perfect for someone looking to finally paint to 100+ guardsman.

I'm surprised by how quickly a can of Wraithbone ran out. We just primed maybe 30 models up, and its already on fumes. Wondering if we got a bad can?

Luckily we bought two, and the second seemed to go significantly further... but man, the secret cost of entry until we find a good, similar, satin finish at ye olde hardware store, is these pricey sprays. Hoping Krylon satin allows for a similar flow?

Perfectly adequate cadian! Looks good.

Well, I was at the Warhammer Citadel store this morning just after opening to pick up my preorder and a couple of other things. I'll bet they made this month's rent in sales in just that first hour or two. So many paints were moving, everyone was carrying handfuls of paint pots to the register.

Wyldwood thinned 2:1 with contrast medium is a fabulous liner. It is a new add to my arsenal.

I also thought the primer ran out quick. Although not cheap I tried contrast over Tamiya fine grey primer with good results.

 PurpleEcho wrote:
That Cadian paint job isn't too bad at all. Was that straight out of pot contrast or did you use any of the medium?

Straight out of the pot, I primed with Grey Seer and everything apart from the flesh and the crests was painted over the Agaross Dunes contrast layer.

Obispudkenobi wrote:

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

Quite possibly one of the worst things I have seen written on the internet , and putting "IMO" doesn't excuse it.

I share his sentiment. Grey plastic is preferable to a bad paintjob. Heck, even GW is suggesting a "monochrome" paint scheme, which is not far from greytide anyway.

No such thing as badly painted if the painter was trying their best.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Miniac is on point, these aint gonna be a magical "get my army painted" they advertised it as.

I have no idea why some people here liked this comically biased garbage. He first hands the paints to a new painter who doesn't even know anything about brush handling or paint thinning, then when newbie produces a model vastly better than previous one done in traditional way, the clown presenting the video whines it's "not that good". Seriously? Is he blind? The difference between two models the new painter done completely destroys whatever point he might have had, and that was just first model by someone who can't even paint yet, for one, the details were nice and highlighted with contrast instead of buried under a mound of thick paint...

But the second part was even more comical. The mastah gives a go himself, proudly declaring this model only took him 1.5 hours (even though it looks far worse than 15 minute Cadian ZenBadger did above...) doing I have no idea what because it was so badly done it shouldn't even take 5 minutes, then proceeds to call the paints gak. Really? It's obvious that joker is worse painter than anyone I have seen on this forum, and if you're taking his opinion after barely trying it over the likes of Sam Lenz or Kris Belleau I don't know what to say. Would you ask a kid who played Forza on a console a few times to pick your new car?

Well I was going to wait, but I went out this morning and got the last apothecary white and second to last Blood angel red. I put these on some B-Sieged figures that I had primed with some rustoleum white primer from Walmart.

 ZenBadger wrote:
A 15 minute Cadian

Spoiler:

This took a minute to wash all over with Aggaros Dunes, a 20 minute dry while I had a bite to eat then a further 14 minutes to paint the rest and base. Not too happy with the base but the contrast paints are good for a quick tabletop standard job. I am going to spend another 10 minutes giving it a quick drybrush, highlighting the metal and painting the face properly but apart from that I'm happy with the result.

This is a very nice paintjob when you consider that you can do a whole infantry army in a week.

I picked up my preorders today, store did not receive Black Templar or Darkoath Flesh, but I got the other 8 I wanted.

Grabbed 8 or so this morning. Did a test on a dark elf cold one. Really like the lighter colors. Tried doing two coats to slightly darken shyish purple but it's to dark for multiple layers.

So far enjoying playing around.

I picked up four colors (mainly because the ravenous hordes apparently got there before, so...): black, orange, yellow and flesh, and a can of primer. And I've been experimenting a bit (Disclaimer: I only have a single, busted up brush from ages ago. Control is... not the best >_&gt:

First I painted a couple of Conan picts, which were primed a long time ago with Army Painter flesh and to which I overprimed a zenital light with Vallejo bone primer:





And lastly (I did all of the above in... maybe an hour, all told), I tried with a Newcromunda Goliath that I had primed with regular pure white GW primer. This last one took about half an hour:

That Goliath is hot stuff

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
I'm surprised by how quickly a can of Wraithbone ran out. We just primed maybe 30 models up, and its already on fumes. Wondering if we got a bad can?

Luckily we bought two, and the second seemed to go significantly further... but man, the secret cost of entry until we find a good, similar, satin finish at ye olde hardware store, is these pricey sprays. Hoping Krylon satin allows for a similar flow?

Went to a GW store today to pick up some of the paints and had primed a sprue with Krylon Satin Ivory to compare to the Wraithbone. At the store, the ivory appeared a small amount yellower and not as dark as the Wraithbone sprayed on the models in the store. When I saw your post, I painted some Wraithbone stripes on the ivory sprue (left side rail). The Wraithbone out of the bottle appears darker than the Krylon ivory, so I don't know if the difference is the lighting conditions or a color difference between the spray and bottle. In any case it seems fairly close and the effect seems to be working pretty well.

First pic
Wraithbone stripes on the left sprue rail, Satin, Antique White house paint in the background seems to match the Wraithbone pretty well. Pox walker is Militarum Green with Skeleton Horde horns and Templar Black chain and grenades. I'm thinking a very light steel drybrush will finish off the chain and grenades.

On the ork, the shoulder pads are Nazdreg Yellow (looks better in the second pic though), axe haft is Skeleton Horde, tunic is Gore Grunta Fur, pants are Flesh Tearer Red, boots are Volupus Pink and bolter is a mix of Shyish Purple and Volupus Pink in an effort to lighten up the Shyish Purple.

In the second pic the face is Magos Purple.

Used a Battle Ready Paint Set to pick up six of the new Contrast related paints: Wraithbone and Grey Seer (Base paints), three Contrast paints and Contrast Medium (Technical).

Do like the Militarum Green as a darker Nurgle base color, although I think I will add a bit of Plagueberer Flesh to yellow it a bit.

Thanks for the pics, Albertorius. I think they definitely work for organic bits with lots of peaks and crevices for the paint to roll off and look into respectively.

Couple of other things: Flesh Tearer Red over Blood Angel Red make a great dark red/crimson and Flesh Tearer Red over Flesh Tearer Red is nice too.

Store manager showed us a Guard fig with Gryph-Hound Orange (only) pants and they looked great. If doing a GSC in the orange color scheme this might be a good way to go.

T

Anyone found an equivalent cheaper spray in the UK? Krylon costs more than GW over here.

That Militarum Green looks a little darker than I'd seen it in other pictures - really nice, thanks for posting. Will pick it up.

Timd--try putting Magos Purple over top of Militarum Green on Wraithbone. Works like a charm I found.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Marshal Loss wrote:
That Militarum Green looks a little darker than I'd seen it in other pictures - really nice, thanks for posting. Will pick it up.

Make sure you shake it up really well. Militarum Green is a much, much better color for doing Nurgle stuff than the actual colors they suggest--especially over top of Wraithbone.

Most of the examples I've seen for Militarum Green have used Grey Seer, which is likely why it looks different.

 Kanluwen wrote:
Make sure you shake it up really well. Militarum Green is a much, much better color for doing Nurgle stuff than the actual colors they suggest--especially over top of Wraithbone.

The Citadel Colour app does recommend Militarum Green over Grey Seer for Death Guard Armour.

 Irbis wrote:

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Miniac is on point, these aint gonna be a magical "get my army painted" they advertised it as.

I have no idea why some people here liked this comically biased garbage. He first hands the paints to a new painter who doesn't even know anything about brush handling or paint thinning, then when newbie produces a model vastly better than previous one done in traditional way, the clown presenting the video whines it's "not that good". Seriously? Is he blind? The difference between two models the new painter done completely destroys whatever point he might have had, and that was just first model by someone who can't even paint yet, for one, the details were nice and highlighted with contrast instead of buried under a mound of thick paint...

But the second part was even more comical. The mastah gives a go himself, proudly declaring this model only took him 1.5 hours (even though it looks far worse than 15 minute Cadian ZenBadger did above...) doing I have no idea what because it was so badly done it shouldn't even take 5 minutes, then proceeds to call the paints gak. Really? It's obvious that joker is worse painter than anyone I have seen on this forum, and if you're taking his opinion after barely trying it over the likes of Sam Lenz or Kris Belleau I don't know what to say. Would you ask a kid who played Forza on a console a few times to pick your new car?

Go watch the rest of his videos, he ain't bad, infact he is friends with Sam, maybe if you wat us his videos you would understand.

Picked some up, did some experimenting this afternoon
So far, entirely on old models with old primers, several of which I stopped using years ago.

Some interesting results (sadly no pics at the moment, because someone in this house decided the best place to put a card reader was somewhere other than with the camera or the computers it is usually attached to. :/ )

But first, a first impression: took a look at the paints at the store, several of the bottles (particularly Apothecary White and Dark Angels Green) had a lot of pigment attached to the bottom of the bottle. Vigorous, repeated shaking didn't dislodge it. I... didn't buy those.


Second impression: these paints are very much designed for specific base colors (not just the two contrast primers), but some are absolutely awful with the wrong shade and just don't work on grey or brown. This definitely includes Aethermatic Blue and Skeleton Horde. The latter often just seems like a shade even over brown base colors.

Primers used: Krylon Grey and Red Oxide. Stopped using these because they leave a rough surface. That surprisingly didn't seem to matter for the contrast paint. The grey worked with some colors, but the red oxide bled through almost everything (including BT Black), except Wyldwood and (mostly) Creed Camo.

Army Painter Leather Brown. Good color for the brown inclined paints. Fights with a lot of the others (skeleton horde, aethermatic blue)

Army Paint Wolf Grey. Pretty much the opposite of Leather Brown, the blues I tried on it looked great.

----


What I picked up and tried today: Black Templar Black, Basilicanum Grey, Griff Charger Grey, Guilliman Flesh, Gore-Grunta Fur, WyldWood, Aethermatic Blue, Talassar Blue, Creed Camo, Skeleton Hode

My favorites so far:

Griff-Charger Grey. Fails on reddish browns (bleeds through) but makes for a really nice flagstone over a grey base.

Talassar Blue. This paint is fantastic. Really strong blue over grey, became a nice dark turquoise over leather brown for a lizardman shield.


Creed Camo- I really like this green over both grey and brown (which is rare for this group of test paints)

--

I like BT Black better than Abaddon black, became really smooth even over a fairly rough primer. Good coverage over grey, but not a medium-to-dark red-brown

Guilliman flesh- Not really sold on this yet. Became an interesting (but not human skin tone) over grey, did... nothing but shade over Army Painter Fur Brown

----

General take away- you really HAVE to know how these paints are going to react to the base coat you put them on. Some are absolutely worthless on the wrong thing (Aethermatic blue basically vanishes on brown, and becomes a hint of wrong color in the corners)

Skeleton Horde feels like a shade for me so far, and less than that on grey. Its probably the one I'm least impressed with, even over a light brown basecoat. I'll have to try some over wraithbone, but so far it doesn't do much that Seraphim sepia or agrax earthshade don't.

Edit: Image: Wraiths, Skeleton Horde is definitely tinting the grey on the skull and hands, Wyldwood is nice and dark, and the robes are Talassar Blue and Aethermatic blue respectively, the rest is still primer.