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Just trying to help Vik realize how close to finished his tank really is and how to make quick and easy "rivets" Now with this helpful hint anyone can make "rivets" as long as they Have 1) an empty plastic model glue bottle.
2) a unused precision tip form a super glue container(Zap-a-gap) in this case.
3) PVA glue to fill the bottle up with.

A little trial and error on a practice sheet and you too can get the right sized "rivets" for any job!

shasolenzabi wrote:Just trying to help Vik realize how close to finished his tank really is and how to make quick and easy "rivets" Now with this helpful hint anyone can make "rivets" as long as they Have 1) an empty plastic model glue bottle.
2) a unused precision tip form a super glue container(Zap-a-gap) in this case.
3) PVA glue to fill the bottle up with.

A little trial and error on a practice sheet and you too can get the right sized "rivets" for any job!

I was completely expecting "order now! Only £19.99."

shrike wrote:
I was completely expecting "order now! Only £19.99."

LOL! I really made it sound like a commercial eh?

yep... comes from all that tank fluff you created... you´re getting good at that now^^ i was expecting something on the line of:
our telephone lines are open 24/7...

thanks for the tip with the gluegun^^ the thing is that i have to figure out how to get an empty fitting gluebottle...the kind i have...grrr...but the idea and the small tip (the one to screw on the bottle, quite confusing vocabs^^) i will try out... maybe i could use windowcolor too? does anyone have heard of that stuff? acrylic paint that you decorate windows with in colorful pictures:


with this i could add real small drops...afterwards they might fit the bill...i will do a testsheat for you to help me decide...

as for some little show and tell for the tracks i promised...remember here at viktor von domm all day steampunk army delivery, we set great store in the last word of our slogan "delivery"...thus we deliver this:



what do you think?

yep... comes from all that tank fluff you created... you´re getting good at that now^^ i was expecting something on the line of:
our telephone lines are open 24/7...

LOL! Hurry now, and we will add in a special deluxe tool kit and tow cables for FREE! just for calling in the next minute!

Not quite what I saw you doing, but it works! no wonder you were worried about so many rivets. Oh yeah, the tip is simply snugly pushed onto the bottle.

IF this design stays then this will be a riveting nightmare^^ i am still thinking about it...tho it will give even through the lots of lines a nice bounch of detail that will go nicely with the rather simple paintscheme i have in mind for these parts...basecoat then wash and then weathering were my thoughts...

LOL! Hurry now, and we will add in a special deluxe tool kit and tow cables for FREE! just for calling in the next minute!

exactly what the guy at the telly just said^^ (minus the tow cables^^)

LOL!

like the new design , mate, i think its better than what i imagined , its possible that you dont have to rivet at all , if you add some of your fancy hole detailing over the top , i think you may get away with a plated affect, Its is after all your own design and who says that your empire hasnt come up with a new super strong welding method , that renders rivets pointless. and from a asthetic point of view , so long as their is detail , it wont matter .

at neil:

is after all your own design and who says that your empire hasnt come up with a new super strong welding method , that renders rivets pointless

good point, i have thought about doing only welding lines done by pva glue to then drybrush over with a bit of metalics as a weathering effect... problem is/was that the consistency of glue or as i also tried out window color...or any acrylic thicker substance is not sufficently even...this then leads to blotchy parts and then i get something that the folowing pcs quite good describe...

here i did a testing of plating and artificial rivets done by window color (fleshtones...) and another windowcolor (now white later transparent i use it for watereffects) witha smaller tip...and then my holepunch made rivets, smallest version from cardboard aplied with a needle...i think the outcome speaks for itself...
the thickness of the plates ressembles the thickness of the actual plates on the tracks...so question time now...should i do two lines and one dot in the middle at each far side of the plates as shown with the with holepuch rivets or just two parrele line of rivets in the fashion of the window color rivets?

complete test shot


fleshtone window color rivets...too big for my taste but smaller was not an option here...


smaller windowcolor rivets with the white then clear substance...smaller but still mighty uneven and unreliable...


and the holepunch rivets from cardboard...



yoiur thoughts?

Use the hole punches for your rivets then Vik, this way no cardboard is wasted, amazing!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
But the clear stuff may be able to make something between their originals and the cardboard punches?

^^ yep...thoughjt so too^^

the glue/ windowcolor mode doesnt work for me... and with cardbaord underneath the rivets aren´t so easy to redo as with plasticcard...

True, so it looks like the card rivets.

I'd use the smaller ones, just to keep it in scale. Remember, these rivets would've been hand-forged, and hand-placed, so they wouldn't all be perfectly even, or same sized.

Actually, when I saw the side of your tank, I instantly though that it looked like Wooden planking. And for a steampunk look, that 'would' be great, Ich glaube. Like a barrel type of construction.

Remember, it doesn't have to make sense, and it would be rather funny to have a tank with Front Armour 13, Rear Armour 11 and Side Armour 9.

at anvildude... those figures doesn´t mean much to me, may you discribe that a bit further? do the stats get better the smaller they are? and such stats would be woodenly weak?

as for the wooden boards and the barrel look ...a steamtank done in that fashion for WHFB would make perfect sense in my book...for a 40k related version i think this would be a tad too old fashioned looking...also i would get rather lost as to how to paint them for a suitable wooden look...atm i am thinking of giving the tank a sandy maincolor...with aplications in red meacharite red) ...and brass and copper maybe...

I'd use the smaller ones, just to keep it in scale. Remember, these rivets would've been hand-forged, and hand-placed, so they wouldn't all be perfectly even, or same sized.

this is a good reason, sadly i tend to be nitpicky when it comes to certain details...thus i think i will stick to the cardboard rivets....

with all my dismissing your suggestions, please bear in mind that i highly value your thoughts and suggestions to my works, i am most thankful for your different aproach to the things shown and talked about here...they help me a great deal as i think i can get pretty easyly stuck in my ways^^

cheers, vik

oh and by the way... today evening i did both tracksystems in the barrellook on both sides...this means that deatailwork can start tomorrow and then riveting and then even mounting the tracks to the body...what more can a true follower of this thread ask for?^^ well obviously a paintjob...er...^^

cardboard rivets, definitely.
Shaso, back to the corporate buildings with you!

for the cardboard rivets i have to test thicknesses...maybe i show you some testings tomorrow... or maybe i just do it^^

definitely test first, ,better safe than sorry after all ^^

lol...if it doesn´t fit the bill i just rip it apart^^ i am brutal and ruthless with me models^^

Viktor von Domm wrote:lol...if it doesn´t fit the bill i just rip it apart^^ i am brutal and ruthless with me models^^

If you do, I will...I will... write a very angry letter to you!

lol

I actually liked the little rivets the best beacuse of there small size , but iam pretty sure that the liitle carboard holes will look great when done matey.

@Shrike: Corporate building? Only if I have tools for dismantling!

@Vik: that is a point there, the hand made aspect of the machinery in 40K, different sizes and such being appropriate and all.

went to a local artshop... boy did i spent more money then i wanted^^...baught me one of these chineese artbrushes...which they wrote in olden times...then a nice stencil i will be maybe using for some cool freehand looking motivs...stay tuned^^... and something i will do after the tank^^ lol... this might justify a new thread after all^^

Hmm, it will be interesting to see what effects it will allow you to do to your projects Vik.

^^ will show you^^

If you are are going to do rivets out of cardboard I assume you dont mind flat topped rivets. If that is the case have you though about making them out of styrene. if you get the smallest styrene rods you can and cut thin slices it would give you the same effect but it would be more sturdy as its plastic.

Just a thought

i know of this methode but the holepunhed rivets are a lot easier done and i lack currently the stock of rods for this... tho i have tried to use spaghettis... first lightly cooked and then cut...but they were to long for my taste...
and concerning the issue with the shape of the rivets, i know real rivets have a more round shaped cap and are seldom flat... but for me the more archaic look with flat rivets works fine^^

Steam-punky!

exactly^^ that´s why we are here after all^^

Steam-punkiness here, and tread head heaven on my thread, we each offer such grand views for others with our threads!