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Azmodai wrote:Your attention to details have already made me add more to my Warhound, and keep getting this feeling compelling me to do a bit more...

Made a new weapon for my Warhound , also... Needed a "destroyer" weapon to handle Red Skulls Stompa.

Positively love your plasticard Warhound!

Azmo

GEEZ! WEAPONS! I FORGOT ABOUT THOSE. Why doesn't Baldrick tell me these things.

Thanks for reminding me,

The complacent Blackadder

Hey, I was at my local GW Battle Bunker, and I was looking around through the display case and I saw the Emperor class Titan stated earlier in this thread!

So far, so good. Do you need a good shouting out to conquer the tedium?

/Wellington

Tell me about tedium!!!

I started installing the umpty ump rivets I lost count after 300. I'm using 0.020, 0.030, 0.040, 0.050. 0.060 dia styrene rods shaved 0.20mm thick, and half inch straight pins.

Blackadder's mixing his units of measurements as usual; how does he manage to keep it straight???

Wow it's looking awesome!

Holy crap... this is literally getting me twitchy with anticipation of my warhound getting made. I keep looking at all the flat surfaces and thinking "The murals! THINK OF THE MURALS!"

This is simply amazing, well done thus far!

Also, those nurglings are great. I might have to make some for my wife.

It's rather difficult to present this without seeming to brag but I am fair bursting with pride over the outcome of the cockpit/head.

since I've completed most of the detail on the head I did a little 'Photoshopping' (Actually I use Photo Impact Pro #10 which I think is a better program than Photoshop.)

I still have the armor on the top of the head to do and the windows and windowframing replete with rivets need to be added after painting.

So I copied and pasted one of my images of a real Warhound head onto my recent image. I was greatly pleased and surprised how well it came out and would like to share it with all of you who have been so instrumental in keeping me on target in finishing this thing.

EB

It looks even more detailed than the forgeworld one!!!!!!!

I think yours looks a bit better than the standard one. The proportions and detail look much more realistic on yours.

Good job

You are da winner

s.j.mccartney wrote:You are da winner

Thanks, but I haven't heard from my old pal and benefactor Jabba lately. I hope nothing's amiss.

I've installed dozens of rivets and am still finding more. How many are too many especially since they all have to be filed shorter after the glue dries. I'm still working on my first bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and it seems to be losing it's potency. does the stuff weaken if the top is not tightened after use as I am wont to do?

Anywho here's today's work and the start of the mega bolter. There's probably a better way to make this but I can't have too much weight up front.

Blackadder

Yea Rivets is the worst part
Keep going!

possibly the glues loosing some of the chemicals through evaporation, Just assuming because its thin it needs a lot of solvent to keep it that way.
Anyway this is a fantastic peice of work!

BoW- John

BEASTSOFWAR wrote:possibly the glues loosing some of the chemicals through evaporation, Just assuming because its thin it needs a lot of solvent to keep it that way.
Anyway this is a fantastic peice of work!

BoW- John

Thanks

Yes although there is no perceptible thickening of the liquid it doesn't seem to penetrate through capillary action as deeply as before.
I had to put some clear glass marbles in the jar to deepen the liquid level for the brush to reach. Guess I should buy some more.

Blackadder

Werdes wrote:Yea Rivets is the worst part
Keep going!

Oh I'm going, yesterday evening in spite of a liberal imbibing of frozen Margaritas I managed to apply the first coat of primer to the head and manufacture the Void Shield Projector bases and the bases for the reactor exhausts.

As the rabbi said "It won't be long now",

Blackadder

MMMMM margaritas are good , frozen is even better . Anyway titan looks freggin awsome you may have inspired me to try my hand at one of these when my guard are finished .

slann wrote:MMMMM margaritas are good , frozen is even better . Anyway titan looks freggin awsome you may have inspired me to try my hand at one of these when my guard are finished .

Any help you need with material, measurements, etc don't hesitate to ask. I received a lot of help from this forum and would like to recipricate.

I took some better pictures today without benefit of Margaritas.......

Yet,

Blackadder

The_Blackadder wrote:...I haven't heard from my old pal and benefactor Jabba lately.

Out of town camping on the Guadeloupe river in Texas. As always your work clearly rivals that of the original. I'm sure there is no need for me to point out any noticeable differences (as I'm aware that they probably all stick out to you).

On the head, the windows on yours are a bit bigger and the snout a bit shorter, the angle of the rear structure/vents(?) seems like it might be a bit off. I only bring those up because I think the tighter windows and longer nose look a little better.

Your rivets look much better than on the original. I'm not sure if you can tell in the photos-but the FW model rivets are rather small, more than a couple of mine didn't mold right. I should have just shaved them and made clean looking ones like yours. I really like the rivets work man.

Some of the best work so far, will sadly go unnoticed. The underside of the head is incredible and the back of the carapace is impeccable. Also the details on the right and left of the snout just forward and under the armor look phenomenal as well.

Are you doing any interior work?

jabbakahut wrote:Out of town camping on the Guadeloupe river in Texas. As always your work clearly rivals that of the original. I'm sure there is no need for me to point out any noticeable differences (as I'm aware that they probably all stick out to you).

Noticeable differences Indeed!!! Sir you take great liberties.

Yes I am fully aware of the discrepancies many of which are intentional but alas a few that are not. I appreciate your candor. Surprisingly no one has picked up on the most obvious difference in that the carapace on mine does not taper toward the front as in the original. In most of the scratch build plans I've seen this angle is much too extreme. I decided to make my prototype parallel with the engine vent compartment and pare the angle in to what I felt was the proper angle. Ultimately I decided parallel looked best.

jabbakahut wrote:On the head, the windows on yours are a bit bigger and the snout a bit shorter, the angle of the rear structure/vents(?) seems like it might be a bit off. I only bring those up because I think the tighter windows and longer nose look a little better.

My windows are only the interior frames as yet. I've still got to install the clear styrene and exterior frames and the roof overhang so that will be easily rectified. Interesting that you think the snout is too short. My original head had a longer snout by approx 3/16 inch but I though it looked too long so when I rebuilt it I made the muzzle shorter. I thought it conveyed a greater impression of strength; a 'pug'nacious demeanor if you will. The rear vents in what would be the ear area gave me a good deal of trouble and I rebuilt them three times. Having only perspective images to go by I gave it my best shot. They fall short of the ideal but will be hidden from all but the most scrutinous inspection by the hood.

jabbakahut wrote:Your rivets look much better than on the original. I'm not sure if you can tell in the photos-but the FW model rivets are rather small, more than a couple of mine didn't mold right. I should have just shaved them and made clean looking ones like yours. I really like the rivets work man.

Until I saw your manual I was not even aware of the rivets in the head armor. They are so small that the paint obscures them in most of the images I had previously. I made mine larger but still they are undersized for the size and the weigh that shielding must have.

I whilst installing these umpty-ump rivets continually reflected on how woefully inadequate these rivet and bolt patterns are for a vehicle of this size. Take a look at the trailer on the next Semi you incounter on the road. and notice the rivet pattern for just afixing thin sheet metal on a non-combat vehicle. Having worked on jet aircraft and inspected the steel hulls of old passenger liners; I can tell you that fist sized rivets 12 to 24 inches apart will not do the job. I put them in for the same reason the original artist/designer did. To break up large empty expanses of slab siding.

jabbakahut wrote:Some of the best work so far, will sadly go unnoticed. The underside of the head is incredible and the back of the carapace is impeccable. Also the details on the right and left of the snout just forward and under the armor look phenomenal as well.

The underside of the head which I am very happy with was surprisingly easy to do. Aside from the pictures you so graciously provided I have never seen any images of this highly detailed area.

I really prefer the 'moulded in' Void Shield Generator housings to the FW model. The gap between the engine vent housing and the generator housing always gave me the impression of a Model 'T' Ford technology. If I am ever fortuanate enough to own and build an original FW Warhound I will change this area to copy my design.

Another thing I cannot bring myself to do is cut the tabs into the skin on the top of the carapaces. I have tried sketching them in but they always detract from the overall effect to my eye. I have decided to leave them out.

jabbakahut wrote:Are you doing any interior work?

Aside from the engine vent compartment in which I stole your colour scheme if you don't mind and installing busts of drivers in the cab there will be no other interior appointments. I toyed with the idea of a complete interior but felt the material was not up to the challenge as far as strength.

Thanks for the critique,

Blackadder

More rivet detail

It took me 3 hours to install the 196 rivets on the caps for the leg joints not to mention the interior of the hip swivel drums. Talk about tedious. I still have to install the rosettes on the caps but decided to take a break and take some pictures. In all the caps took 3 days to manufacture and I don't relish repeating this part of the project but I still have the toes to do IIIEEEE!

EB

Dude, you have a problem. An awesome problem.

The Dreadnote wrote:Dude, you have a problem. An awesome problem.

Are you speakingas far as; mentally, manufacturing-wise or both?

EB

In that you're the kind of person who will spend three days installing rivets, where your average person would say "nah, too much hard work".

The_Blackadder wrote:Surprisingly no one has picked up on the most obvious difference in that the carapace on mine does not taper toward the front as in the original. In most of the scratch build plans I've seen this angle is much too extreme. I decided to make my prototype parallel with the engine vent compartment and pare the angle in to what I felt was the proper angle. Ultimately I decided parallel looked best.

I had to go get mine off the shelf to verify, I doubt in anybody would notice that. I wasn't even aware of it on my own model. It is a very subtle angle, I see the problems in getting that right. I think the parallel works just fine.

Didn't notice...

I didn't imagine it and I'm glad it's not noticable on the standard model. I've seen a few scratchbuilts on this pattern and it make the overall effect make it look weak. IMHO I hastly add.

EB


Automatically Appended Next Post:

The Dreadnote wrote:In that you're the kind of person who will spend three days installing rivets, where your average person would say "nah, too much hard work".

I.E. Manic Obsessive but "hours" on these particular rivets.

Blackadder

Okay folks the next time you see this hull for better or worse it will have a coat of primer in it. As soon as I get these pictures uploaded I'm gonna paint this sucker. I did a crash program marathon to get it ready for paint this weekend installing something like 200+ more rivets and the rest carapace underside detail. I replaced the six link coupler tubes with styrene tubes in between the generators.

Question of probablilities for you math and physics wiz's out there:

I've studied a little quantum physics and the Heisenberg uncertainty principle but I'm at a loss to explain why when you install a rivet approximately 0.030inches in diameter and 0.015inches thick it invariably stands on edge instead of lying on the flat disc surface. I've even tried to stand it on edge (even though I really want it to lie flat just to confuse the gods of the laws of probablity) and the damned things still stand on edge. It's like flipping a coin a hundred times and every time it stands on edge.

Now here's the real kicker; on a piece of scrap I deliberately tried to stand these tiny disks on edge and they lie flat every time.

I think my basement is haunted by Schrodinger's cat,

Blackadder

The_Blackadder:

I don't think you're dealing with quantum mechanics, unless you're a really crazy rivetter. I think you're dealing with good old surface tension, dissolving polymers, and the relative static charges of the plastic pieces. I imagine, and this is a bit of a just-so story, that the rivets you've cut out have microscopically rough edges, where there loose-ends of styrene polymers that catch much more easily on the unraveling polymers that are being dissolved by the cement you're applying. And the charge orients the rivets edge on. So, not really rivets, but molecular bonding studs!

Nurglitch wrote:The_Blackadder:

I don't think you're dealing with quantum mechanics, unless you're a really crazy rivetter. I think you're dealing with good old surface tension, dissolving polymers, and the relative static charges of the plastic pieces. I imagine, and this is a bit of a just-so story, that the rivets you've cut out have microscopically rough edges, where there loose-ends of styrene polymers that catch much more easily on the unraveling polymers that are being dissolved by the cement you're applying. And the charge orients the rivets edge on. So, not really rivets, but molecular bonding studs!

So you're saying that the rivets are so small that static electricity is causing them to stand on edge???

Thanks,

EB

Not exactly. I'm suggesting that maybe the studs are so small that a combination of static electricity, loose polymers, and surface tension made them stand on edge.

This is such a nice scratchbuild. Pure win.