Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I know people have been doing it for years, and people have more skill - but how do you get a hoarde to stay upright on a hill while deploying in under 10 minutes. In my first ever game lots I spent 10 minutes trying to get my orks not to domino on the set of hills that was my deployment zone.

Weight the bases. I use a nickle under my Orks, not sure what the equivalent sized coin or washer would be in NZ

Best way to do this is:

Dont deploy on hills

Model your hills in 'tiers', as several low platforms with enough room for several models on each tier (also, if you dont glue the tiers together, you can have many different sized hills as you see fit)

Tiered hills are the best idea. We've been thinking of priming the slopes of hills with magnetic paint, but that only helps if you have magnetic bases.

2nd for tiered hills, but you'll always have wrecked space ships or something else that's suitably sharp. Weighting bases is really the only good idea, even though it isn't perfect (or even close sometimes), but it's the best option. For slot bases I take pennies, cut them in two, and then super glue them to the bottom. Then I take white glue and cover the entire bottom so that there's a little more weight and the pennies don't get caught on anything... There's only so much you can do however. You have no idea how many of my genestealers have been climbed trees with their stabby claws, but that's just what you have to do sometimes.

I use lead fishing shot - called line sinkers here in the States. BB-grade shot flattens nicely with a tap from a hammer and weighs enough that most plastics won't tip over. It might take 2-4 for a top heavy model, but they're small and very affordable.

If money is no object why not try magnetic bases?

http://www.gf9.com/store/index.php?cPath=38&osCsid=0a10f7d1a4506a352ca0fc2689df8988

I would suggest extremely fine bird shot or finer (like model boat ballast) mixed with epoxy resin.

However, as said above, terraced hills is the better option.

just pile them together and on top of eachother, they make better targets for my templates.