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Made in us
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver





Auburn, CA

Hey guys. I'm taking a break from my WIP IG force to do some historical scale modeling.

I've been using plastic cement (testors) and regular old super glue (brush on, actually.)

I'm not really satisfied with the level of precision I can get with these glues. More often than not I get too much glue!

Can anyone link to me some glues that have like a more precision tip?

I was particularly interested in a tip for a super glue bottle I saw in one of Beast of War's Youtube Videos. Almost looked like a needle coming off the end of the bottle so the guy in the Video was able to lay down a really fine bead of glue.

I'm looking to be more precise with both super glue and plastic cement.

Any thoughts/tips/tricks/products you guys want to point out?

Waagh! Lagduf
Sons of Vulkan
Cadian Mountain Division
 
   
Made in nl
Blood-Drenched Death Company Marine





The Netherlands

Yeah, the ones used in Beast of War's video's is Revell's plastic glue, I recommend getting a bottle of that.

   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Burtucky, Michigan

As far as the testors goes, they sell plastic tips that go into a super fine tip. They come I think, in sets of 5 for just over a buck. I used to use them when I built model cars.
As far as the super glue goes, Ive no idea. I use cheap-o stuff and the tips on those always worked for me lol
   
Made in us
Yellin' Yoof on a Scooter




roaming the internet somewhere

if you're using brush on glue it's much harder to be presise use a regular bottle of super glue that you apply directly from the bottle

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Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God






Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

KingCracker wrote:As far as the super glue goes, Ive no idea. I use cheap-o stuff and the tips on those always worked for me lol


Same here... 40g of glue for £1 wins in my view.

If you want to apply it more accurately, get some cocktail sticks and put a dab of glue on the point and transfer it to the model.

   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




Swindon, Wiltshire, UK

Often its pratice that makes perfection, knowing the exact amount you need and how to get that exact amount helps alot.
   
Made in us
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver





Auburn, CA

lordofthedead wrote:if you're using brush on glue it's much harder to be presise use a regular bottle of super glue that you apply directly from the bottle


I haven't really found that to be the case, actually.

I might be using some subpar bottles of super glue then.

Waagh! Lagduf
Sons of Vulkan
Cadian Mountain Division
 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

I use Revell contacta Professional for plastic models - the fine needle tip allows the glue to be put where you want it.

It's perfectly possible to glue down the canopy of the valkyrie without it frosting in any way using this stuff.


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Made in au
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Melbourne, Australia

For detailed supergluing, I put a puddle down and use a stick to put it on.

The brush on plastic glues I prefer to the squeeze on, putting a thin layer on both sides (wipe off the excess first so it doesn't run).

Super fine plastic glue comes with a really fine tip for very small pieces.

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Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive

Testor plastic grue with brush is the easiest.
Apply the glue the same way you guys high light a mini's edges.

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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






drinking ale on the ground like russ intended

http://www.testors.com/category/136942/Cements

This is what you need ^ hope it helps.

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Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper




Ohio, United States.

I use cheap super glue, I just cut the tip at a slight angle. Plastic glue is the most amazing glue in the world
Gabe.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/07/10 10:20:22


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Made in us
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver





Auburn, CA

Thanks guys.

I working on a 1:35 Panzer IV and I've never encountered pieces so small!

But I'm a modeling n00b who is trying to get better.

Waagh! Lagduf
Sons of Vulkan
Cadian Mountain Division
 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Burtucky, Michigan

Fastest way to get better is by doing more lol. Theres really no other way better or faster.
   
Made in ca
Ork-Hunting Inquisitorial Xenokiller




Canada

I use a dried up sharpie pen(0.05 mm) to aplie glue to small areas when working with minatures and historical models.
   
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Dakka Veteran






sonofruss wrote:http://www.testors.com/category/136942/Cements

This is what you need ^ hope it helps.


I use the Testors Liquid Cement for plastic models. They come with a wire that you should keep because if the nozzle gets clogged, I just use the wire to unclog it. You will also have to clip the end of the nozzle to open it. Clip it little by little becuase if you clip it too far, you may end up with a hole too large to be precise...and you did want precision. I was affraid to clip too much so I started using my file to file down the nozzle. The file will not work. You need to clip it. The filings just clogged what little hole it uncovered and gave me a not so fine tip like I wanted.

   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






drinking ale on the ground like russ intended

Mine has a metal tube for an applicator so no clipping it came with two wires to clean out the tube tho

Logan's Great Company Oh yeah kickin' and not even bothering to take names. 2nd company 3rd company ravenguard House Navaros Forge world Lucious & Titan legion void runners 314th pie guard warboss 'ed krunchas waaaaaargh This thred needs more cow bell. Raised to acolyte of the children of the church of turtle pie by chaplain shrike 3/06/09 Help stop thread necro do not post in a thread more than a month old. "Dakkanaut" not "Dakkaite"
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