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Hello Dakka,

I'm asking everyone what tool do you use for cutting models off the sprue and removing excess pieces of plastic.
I use a stanly knife,but I want to know what other people use.

Tyranid Horde

Clippers that GW sell ^^

Stanley Knife. I have clippers, but I only use them for the parts that could be easy to dammage with the knife. Then I use files for any mold lines.
Haven't brought a single tool from GW though

I use the clippers myself, they work great for other things aswell

Need to get myself a new pair though because after cutting through various wires and things the actual blade is pitted

n0t_u wrote:Haven't brought a single tool from GW though

Why bother, expensive and can find the same if not better in a DIY shop

Exactly the reason

And because I work at a diy shop i can . . . liberate them so to speak

Its a great place for all sorts of stuff

Little clipers - they're cheap and effective, and much safer than a knife too

I have the little clippers but they are another company, not GW. (Of course, GW's are made by some other company and rebadged.)

I also use thin and thick bladed snap-off box cutter type knives. Some tin parts are better cut off the sprue by knife and trimmed after cementing to the model.

For trimming, I use the knife blade, and a variety of files and sanding boards.

im quite embarressed. i have a scalpol blade (nice and sharp, and no i cannot spell)

a nail file (it actually works!)

and a pair of, are you ready for this uber fail?

rabbit toe nail clippers.

thats right freinds, you heard me right.

I use wire clippers stolen from my dads workplace (electrical supplies) to de-sprue pieces, my penknife and files to remove mouldlines and my knife and files to cut things

Clippers from GW for me as well but they are starting to get a bit blunt so they are due for an upgrade soon. For metal, I LOVE the gale force 9 mini-files. They are by far the best files I have ever used for removing mould lines from metal and highly recommend them.

I use a Stanley snap-off blade knife. I have used x-acto knives in the past but it always seemed like such a hassle to deal with the blades all the time. With the snap-off jobs it takes an instant to renew your working surface. Its also pointy enough to get into most crevices.

I also use a needle file set. That really enough to deal with de-spruing, trimming and removing flash. I also have a GW razor saw for chopping up models for conversion and it is pretty damn effective.

A Jeweller's saw is super useful.

I find that a hobby knife with a chisel-type blade is the most convenient and has the least chance to damage the bits (a regular blade can cut through an adjacent bit if you push too hard, clippers are too large to precisely cut very small bits)

http://www.igotitonline.com.au/images/Tools-hardware%20Images/hobby%20knife%20set.jpg
The two blades on the far left is what I'm talking about.

I've got angle-cutters, but they aren't designed for this whole precision flush-cutting gig (not to mention being beat to hell). I use a combination of nail clippers and a hobby knife, depending on the piece. Knife and diamond-coated needle files for cleanup.

small set of nail clips for taking this off the sprue generally, and my pocketknife generally gets used to remove mold lines and whatnot

For removing from sprue: Clippers. Came from a local electronics supplier, 7 years ago and haven't notched them yet with even steel wound guitar strings.

For removal of mold-lines: X-acto. Hobby store, also where I get blades from. 2 sizes. Pencil sized (#1 with #11 blades ?) and the bigger handle for wider blades and the razor saw.

For removal of metal bits I want to keep: Razor saw.
For removal of metal bits otherwise: Dremel.

For sculpting/pushing around of GS: A set of dental picks (a mate is a dental prosthetist).

For pinning. A pin-vice with a selection of engineering bits (0.2mm up to 1mm)

None of my tools came from GW. The local hobby store is the largest in the state and has ALL that I need (bar gaming models).

I use a double-edged razor blade(I shave with one and the "dull" blades are still sharp enough for the job) to scrape off mold lines. Risky, but more precise than an x-acto knife and unlikely to leave a gash in the model.

I have a set of GF9 clippers, GF9 files (which are AMAZING), an exacto knife I don't use much, and a coule of pairs of toe nail clippers in case I need to go through something REALLY thick and don't want to damage a valuable tool.

I usually just twist the item off the sprue or break them off by squeezing. Then use a file to take off the nubs left behind. If they're particularly stubborn I have a very, very sharp jackknife I use.

Clippers only used to take off topknots and other irritating integrated items.

Until my unfortunate accident, I used my trusty rusty utility knife, however, I discovered true enlightenment, and I now use a pair of diagonal cutters, gently trimming down with the knife only when absolutely 100% necessary (and with a fresh blade). I've also become a fond believer in the sanding attachment for my dremel. Finally, for greenstuff, I like to use a plastic BIC mechanical pencil. Even with the tiniest of lubrication, GS never sticks to it, and it has an end for poking/pulling, a flat part for smoothing, and a round section for whatever else I might need it to do.

GW clippers, or just my penknife.
I prefer the clippers, really. More control.

Other tools I have are a hacksaw, the rest of the penknife and multitool, a pair of miniature needle-nose pliers, a big pair of needle-nose pliers for spraypainting, and a load of brushes.

chromedog wrote:For removing from sprue: Clippers.

For removal of mold-lines: X-acto.

For removal of metal bits I want to keep: Razor saw.
For removal of metal bits otherwise: Dremel.

Same as chromedog. I use the jewelry/hobby/kid sized clippers (much smaller head to safely get in the tightest sprue corners) and sometimes even use clippers (the normal sized ones) on metal bits I want to keep.

Don't buy the GW clippers when you can get better quality snippers for cheaper at a hardware store. Same goes for needle files, pin vices (handdrills), saws, etc etc. The only thing I bought from GW for modeling was the GS tool, and even that I could have got a different brand at a better price.

ESPECIALLY don't buy their airbrush though... I have heard many bad things about the durability of said product.

Nail clippers!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Nail clippers!

And I thought GW's clippers where expensive... http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-detail.aspx?pn=446-447&ref=base