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Made in us
[DCM]
.







Aduro wrote:I second the request for your methods. I really wana know how you got the nice crisp black lines.


Third request here, especially as I'm about to start working on a Marines Malevolent force!

So, a tutorial with step by step instructions (with pictures?) would be greatly appreciated!
   
Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd





Skiing Heaven Utah

Awwww man, somebody beat me to it. Beautiful army! Please do tell your yellow recipe (mine is white prime, vomit brown, dry brush bleached bone, apply yellow ink).
   
Made in us
Auspicious Aspiring Champion of Chaos





life.

that is an awesome Ifists army. please, create more. personnaly, i'd expand with some C fists and templars to represent the sons of dorn fighting together as one, holy destruction force.

I collect:

Grand alliance death (whole alliance)

Stormcast eternals

Slaves to Darkness - currently Nurgle but may expand to undivided.
 
   
Made in us
Bane Knight






Tulsa, Ok, USA

Not 100% sure but it looks like pen lining. I used that for my FoW stuff. It looks good when done correctly and the OP has perfected it! If I'm wrong by all means correct me please...as I am doing an IF army as well.

Hordini wrote:A little pee came out when I saw that.


My Warmachine Blog:
http://burbspainting.blogspot.com/
4500 Tau Army 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





down south

Gawd thats a good looking force! The detailing shows up soooo well on that great shade of yellow. Love chaptermaster whack-a-mole
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




I know paintedpotato in person, in fact he is probably downstairs in my living room as we speak. I made him make this account but since he is too lazy to log back on I'll do my best to answer.

He used spray on black primer and then an Iyanden Sun under coat. He sprayed on sunburst yellow by airbrush, painted the red, and then lined using brown ink. This was all done on the sprew, except maybe the lining. He did the force org markings on the rhinos by putting masking tape on what was to remain yellow and then air brushing black.

Edit: I am wrong about the rhinos.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2008/11/02 20:25:03


Build a fire for a man and he will be warm for a day; set a man on fire and he will be warm for the rest of his life.

Sly Marbo was originally armed with a power weapon, but he dropped it while assaulting a space marine command squad just so his enemies could feel pain.

Sly Marbo doesn't go to ground, the ground comes to him.  
   
Made in ca
Been Around the Block





I hope he has plans to finish his bases...leaving them grey like that just doesnt do them justice.
   
Made in gb
Lesser Daemon of Chaos




Minting, Horncastle

must resist, urge to, collect, loyalists
agghh!
ah good still chaos
but y are my chaos marines yellow?
!!!
   
Made in us
Pragmatic Collabirator






I apologize for the delay in response time. Not only am I lazy, but I spend ridiculous amounts of time on actual gaming, work, commute from work, and quality time with the girlfriend. It seems the only time I have to post is 2am and during lunch breaks.

So here we go.

Whocares is close enough in his description. All the infantry was essentially sprue painted. step by step.

1. cut excess sprue connections to the model parts: the top of helmets, the front of shoulder pads but not the back of shoulder pads or the bottom of the helmets. essentially keep the parts connected to the sprue at points where people dont actually look.

2. clean mold line. I hate this part but you have to do it. I noticed its sometime better to over file than under file.

3. hold the parts by the sprue frame and prime every last crevice.

4. Airbrush armor iyanden dark sun. foundations are heavy so you can thin it out quite a bit.

5. airbrush with a sunny color

6. paint trim and breast plate wings red.

7. paint metal things metal

8. use a fine detail brush and brown ink/liner and paint in small lines in all of the armor's cracks and crevices

9. snip off the parts from the sprue

10. assemble

11. touch up points from where you cut off the sprue. (mainly the bottom of power packs, and the back of shoulder rim)

12. paint bases

13. put away in case as soon as possible

step 13 is pretty important when painting in mass. I find myself staring at the finished product and savoring the accomplishment. By putting them away you will habituate less and be less likely to burn out and not want to paint.

Decals are done by cutting out the image not the decal and thus removing the excess film. After it is on the model, I cut them at 12, 2, 6, and 10 o'clock. This gets rid of a lot of folds. I hair dry it so it melts into place and seal it to the model with varnish.

The vehicle were more or less the same, but I assembled then painted them.
For the squad arrows and such for the rhinos, I painted the hatch black after priming then put down a mask for the shape. when I sprayed all of the yellow, the black underneath the arrow stays untouched. After the yellow dries, just peal off the mask and you have a perfectly shaped arrow.

As far as bases are concerned, I probably will not touch them until the models are actually done. I still have much to do. about 90% of the time I play on city boards and the yellow distracts enough away from the base. I intend to do a few glazes of a golden color and possibly highlight with a lemony yellow. Not to mention the eyes and joints still need to be painted. I took a few close ups so you can see that they aren't that good, maybe just good enough. When I finish the paint job (if ever) I have a few GW urban basing kits. I never used them before so I will have to try a couple of tests.

I will see what I can do about making a picture tutorial of who I sprue painted. Probably wont be for a while though, the weather is horrible so I wont be able to prime.

Here is a picture of a member from squad 1. Normally I have roman numeral marked on the top of the back pack so that I know which rhino has which unit. The rhinos are marked in the spot between the top firing point and the back of the vehicle using the corresponding roman numeral for the squad inside.



I was coerced into taking the company photos and so they didn't turn out so great. Here is a close up of Captian Jack
You can see some wear on skull on his chest from all the games he has been through. I am more of a gamer at heart.

I have Faith.

"Strong units. Weak units. That is only the selfish perception of people. Truly skilled players should try to win with their favorites."

Sisters of Battle Paint Blog

 
   
Made in au
Drone without a Controller





Australian

Wow amazing looking army - you are an awesome painter.

- 1000

- 2000

- 250

- 500 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Annapolis, MD, USA

The captains head is beautifully painted.

My Blog http://ghostsworkfromthedarkness.blogspot.com/

Ozymandias wrote:
Pro-painted is the ebay modeling equivalent of "curvy" in the personal ads...
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DR:90S+GMB+I+Pw40k01-D++A++/areWD 250R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




paintedpotato wrote:I apologize for the delay in response time. Not only am I lazy, but I spend ridiculous amounts of time on actual gaming, work, commute from work, and quality time with the girlfriend. It seems the only time I have to post is 2am and during lunch breaks.


Lazy bastard.

paintedpotato wrote:I was coerced into taking the company photos and so they didn't turn out so great.


Your mouth said no, but your camera said yes, yes, yesss...

Build a fire for a man and he will be warm for a day; set a man on fire and he will be warm for the rest of his life.

Sly Marbo was originally armed with a power weapon, but he dropped it while assaulting a space marine command squad just so his enemies could feel pain.

Sly Marbo doesn't go to ground, the ground comes to him.  
   
Made in us
[DCM]
.







Any more updates?

And advice to those of us about to take the leap into painting yellow?
   
Made in au
Stalwart Dark Angels Space Marine





melbourne Victoria Australia

with your chapter master, since their imperial "fists" why dont you GS some fists onto the hammers

around 500 pt (1 LR Crusader 1 Drop Pod 10 DA Veterans) thinking of starting maybe even some

"treat Everyday as though it's your last, one day your sure to be right" - Harry "Breaker" Morrant

5 years in the hobby and i still Uber Suck!!!!!




 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






im new to the game, would that model be able to count as lysander

once you go black you never go back 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




ttowns wrote:im new to the game, would that model be able to count as lysander


No, there is already a lysander model made by gw and it isn't armed the same way.

Build a fire for a man and he will be warm for a day; set a man on fire and he will be warm for the rest of his life.

Sly Marbo was originally armed with a power weapon, but he dropped it while assaulting a space marine command squad just so his enemies could feel pain.

Sly Marbo doesn't go to ground, the ground comes to him.  
   
Made in au
Freaky Flayed One





Australia, Melbourne

i must say, these models really cut the mustard......


sorry, i just had to

but seriously, that is a great collection, one wishes he had that many troops, oh well

Just a man, standing in front of a paint pot, trying to remeber if I rinsed boltgun metal in it.  
   
Made in us
Pragmatic Collabirator






Here is a step by step on the yellow (although there may have been some redundant steps as I have change my feelings about the color scheme. They were just too yellow!) I have included pictures using the models I am touching up. Really the only trick to yellow is to use an airbrush since it seems the only way to get a smooth even coat. I usually do a 1:3 ration of acrylic thinner to paint.

++step one: prime black. (I just hate white primer, I suspect white may be better)

++step two: airbrush foundation yellow. (Games Workshop)

++step three: airbrush sun yellow. (Vallejo Game Color although Citadel would work fine but I got a good deal on a lot of this stuff) Originally I stopped here and went on to line and do detail but I quickly became board of the mono-tone. So I went on to step 4.

++step four: tone it down a bit with a gold yellow. (Reaper)

++step five: fix the highlights with the sun yellow. (Reaper) Just the edges, and kinda blend it into the gold with glazes, the most tedious task ever conceived!

++step six: line with brown liner using a 0, foreign, no long available in the US, Vallejo, sable brush(Reaper)

The last few steps were with Reaper Master Series Paints. I just tried them out and decided I liked them.

Hope this answers any questions about the yellow.

Spud v1.0


I will add updates of the new additions for my army including a Terminator posy for Chapter Master "Whack-A-Mole"
[Thumb - IMG_0394.JPG]
step 3

[Thumb - IMG_0398.JPG]
step 4

[Thumb - IMG_0402.JPG]
step 5

[Thumb - IMG_0406.JPG]
step 6


I have Faith.

"Strong units. Weak units. That is only the selfish perception of people. Truly skilled players should try to win with their favorites."

Sisters of Battle Paint Blog

 
   
Made in gb
Drone without a Controller





That's a great looking army. You ought to base them though. The army looks too good not to have a finishing touch like that.
   
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Tail-spinning Tomb Blade Pilot




Where people Live Free, or Die

Great job! It's very rare to see a fully painted Battle Company. Incredible work!

Menaphite Dynasty Necrons - 6000
Karak Hirn Dwarfs - 2500

How many lawyers does it take to change a light bulb?
-- Fifty-Four -- Eight to argue, one to get a continuance, one to object, one to demur, two to research precedents, one to dictate a letter, one to stipulate, five to turn in their time cards, one to depose, one to write interrogatories, two to settle, one to order a secretary to change the bulb, and twenty eight to bill for professional services.
 
   
Made in us
Pragmatic Collabirator






I do have some squads based using the city of death basing kit. Once I finish the gold shading and decal work I get around to it. So far I only have 3 tactical squads, 10 terminators, and my HQ's based for my 1500 point games.

Here is the technique used for the basing.

1: apply a liberal amount of PVA glue as the rocks can be heavy.
2: sprinkle on the big chunks first so that they get the most surface area of glue to hold on to.
3: sprinkle in the finer slate to fill in the spots that the bigger chunks cant get
4: let it dry
5: paint it dark brown (actually I am old school and used a liberal amount of brown ink; the stuff GW doesn't make anymore)
6: let that take forever to dry
7: heavy drybrush with adeptus battlegrey foundation
8: light drybrush with astronomican grey
9: matte varnish (I prefer testors dullcote. Some say it gets yellow over time, but I don't think I have a problem with that...)

The chapter masters are based too but I find myself not taking them out of the box as much.

Spud v1.0
[Thumb - IMG_0419.JPG]
Squad 2 of 3

[Thumb - IMG_0433.JPG]
The terminators

[Thumb - IMG_0434.JPG]
The squad leader

[Thumb - IMG_0427.JPG]
my temporary librarian

[Thumb - IMG_0443.JPG]
A better pic of the chaplain

[Thumb - IMG_0441.JPG]
here is a side-by-side of the new yellow and old yellow


I have Faith.

"Strong units. Weak units. That is only the selfish perception of people. Truly skilled players should try to win with their favorites."

Sisters of Battle Paint Blog

 
   
Made in us
Awesome Autarch






Las Vegas, NV

Wow, amazing IF army! Very nicely done, now its time for an apoc battle!

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






The ruins of the Palace of Thorns

I hope I can make my Lamenters look that good.

Though guards may sleep and ships may lay at anchor, our foes know full well that big guns never tire.

Posting as Fifty_Painting on Instagram.

My blog - almost 40 pages of Badab War, Eldar, undead and other assorted projects 
   
Made in ca
Stubborn Dark Angels Veteran Sergeant




Ontario

Holy Canoly! Those are absolutely amazing!

DCDA:90-S++G+++MB++I+Pw40k98-D+++A+++/areWD007R++T(S)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Tough-as-Nails Ork Boy





excellent, glad to see more people playing Imperial Fists, and phenomenal paint job, i would love to see updates

My Armies: 2000 pts Vior La Tau
5500 pts Armagedon Deathskull Orks
3000pts Raven Guard with Grey Knight contingent
1000 pts Tyranids (Kraken or Swamp Paint Scheme, don't know yet).
4000pts Word Bearers, Company of Shadow, and Libation Bearers.
2000pts Chaos Daemons.
Warhammer Fantasy: High Elves
I'm Chaplain Israfil on http://sonsofcorax.freeforums.org/index.php
Current Projects: Imperial Guard: Swamp Stalkers of Myr! and Harbingers Space Marines! 
   
Made in gb
Drone without a Controller





Based they really take the biscuit. Nice to see a themed, well executed army like that.
   
Made in us
Slippery Scout Biker





Washington State

paintedpotato wrote:++step four: tone it down a bit with a gold yellow. (Reaper)

++step five: fix the highlights with the sun yellow. (Reaper) Just the edges, and kinda blend it into the gold with glazes, the most tedious task ever conceived!

++step six: line with brown liner using a 0, foreign, no long available in the US, Vallejo, sable brush(Reaper)

The last few steps were with Reaper Master Series Paints. I just tried them out and decided I liked them.

Hope this answers any questions about the yellow.



In steps 4, 5 and 6 are you airbrushing at all or blending with many light coats? I'm starting a fists army now myself and am looking for any more info.

thanks for posting!
   
Made in ph
Frenzied Juggernaut






First to say thread Necromancy!

qwekel wants to get bigger, please click on him and level him up.
 
   
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Prescient Cryptek of Eternity





Mayhem Comics in Des Moines, Iowa

I can't believe I missed it the first time... But every single squad serge is pointing.

 
   
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Death-Dealing Dark Angels Devastator





Fighting alongside O'shovah in the ongoing crusade against the Green Skins

nice Imperial Fists keep up the great painting!

 
   
 
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