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silveroxide wrote:
By the way CHICKEN how is your painting techniques, has it improved any?

go and see at http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/241850.page

how much did this project cost/ bet you saved loads

deadly chicken wrote:

silveroxide wrote:
By the way CHICKEN how is your painting techniques, has it improved any?

go and see at http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/241850.page

how much did this project cost/ bet you saved loads

Something you have to realise is that modelling isn't always about saving money - some people actually enjoy the hobby for the challenge and the enjoyment of seeing something good made by their own hands. I'm guessing that silveroxide is doing this one more for the enjoyment than any cost savings and anyway, many scratch-builds probably cost more than mass produced plastic kits anyway.

I think you need to stop ripping on people so much and so quickly when they post something, especially when it comes across as being more than a touch hypocritical. Concentrate on improving your skills before laying in so vigourously to other folks, especially when it's a pretty good crack at it. Either that or try and make your initial posts to people more constructive rather than sounding like you know all there is to know about the hobby. I'm sure that following your recent experiences on this forum, you'd agree that you get better and more reasoned responses from the community if you're a bit more modest or approach things in a more gracious manner.

Back on topic now, that's a pretty good walkthrough of your build silveroxide. The finished article looks good and it would have to be a pretty harsh hobbyist that woldn't let you field it in a game.

I've been educated (for the 8th or something time this half-term). one more quick question. have you ever heard of paper hammer?

one more quick question. How long did that take you to make?

No, I do not believe I have heard that terminology "Paper Hammer".

The complete process from start to finish took about three weeks. Took two weeks to make the plans and the beta build and one week to do the final. This model is still not done. There are add-ons in the work. The idea came from the German and Russian tank hunters of WW-II.

deadly chicken wrote:I've been educated (for the 8th or something time this half-term)

And yet you still don't learn? I dread to think what you're grades will be like.

sA


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Like a Jagdpanzer?

Very attractive tanks.

sA

I suppose that the person looks smart, dresses well smiles friendly and then he opens his mouth to speak, MY GOD!!!! he is a harlequin, the court jester a fool. Like in Star Wars, Jar-Jar Binks, "But Isa speak", Master Jedi reply, "To be able to speak does not make you smart." Or words to that effect.

I like to scratch build for my enjoyment and I have used my builds in local games. As mentioned earlier, pre-agreement must be made between all playing partners when placing a DIY piece on the table. The piece must be believable, You cannot place a cannon piece on a vehicle that cannot conceivably be able to move because of it weight. Give it a force field of a Gothic fleet battle cruiser that can only be penetrated by ten Titans.

This Chimera has the standard frontal cannon and same armor strength as the Chimera and is the same point value as the Chimera's.

Here are some pics of the prototype beta build, and some more build process.


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smiling Assassin wrote:

deadly chicken wrote:I've been educated (for the 8th or something time this half-term)

And yet you still don't learn? I dread to think what you're grades will be like.

sA


Automatically Appended Next Post:


Like a Jagdpanzer?

Very attractive tanks.

sA

Yes that is one of the reference pics used.

I think this is extremely cool. As another poster pointed out, the sources of designs of the vehicles used by the Imperial Guard are varied and numerous, and it's really nice to see someone putting so much effort into their own take on one of them.

Kudos.

Thanks a lot for this cheers for the advice on laminating and all I've got a few questions as I'm planning something similiar for terrain-
How expensive is posterboard
Where do you buy it?
Would Cereal Box card be equivalent?
How important is the quality of the printer?
How durable is the completed model?
As I've said I've seen some sets of terrain templates on sale and I'm interested in whether it would be worth trying myself.
Incidentally why don't you submit this as part of L. Bursley's get your teach on challenge?

wow

Llamahead wrote:Thanks a lot for this cheers for the advice on laminating and all I've got a few questions as I'm planning something similiar for terrain-
How expensive is posterboard
Where do you buy it?
Would Cereal Box card be equivalent?
How important is the quality of the printer?
How durable is the completed model?
As I've said I've seen some sets of terrain templates on sale and I'm interested in whether it would be worth trying myself.
Incidentally why don't you submit this as part of L. Bursley's get your teach on challenge?

It is quite durable if done right. I made a jump ramp for my grandkids matchbox cars last year and it is still sturdy and around. My grandkids are 4 and 9 and they do give it a workout. I have yet to repair it, but I used hot glue to put it together instead of white glue.

I buy my foam board at Michael's, Hobby Lobby, A.C. Moore and on occasion, the dollar store. The cardstock or heavy posterboard I also buy it at the Dollar store. When I use cereal box cartons, it is for the base build and I laminate (Skin the model) with the color print-ou. If you do it this way, then you will need spray adhesive to get a consistent placement on the cereal box and cut down on the bubble or warping. The printer is no problem for me, since I go over my project with paints and washes to get the weathered look.

On a different note, Spray the adhesive on a sheet of aluminum foil and you will get a good metallic look to weapons and other metallic items. The aluminum will form to the contours rather well. X-Acto knives are good for plastic but tend to loose their edge rather quick. I use surgical blades for my projects. They are more sharper but do not press down hard like on an X-Acto knife. Slight pressure will work just as well. For these Items, you can go to micromark.com and they have a great selection of tools for the model makers.

As for terrain!,,,,,, Here is a pic of my landing pad. I will do some battlements later in the future.

That Lightnings great! Also what exactly is poster Board I'm from the UK and I've never really recognised it when I've been in Poundland our dollar store equivalent....

Llamahead wrote:That Lightnings great! Also what exactly is poster Board I'm from the UK and I've never really recognised it when I've been in Poundland our dollar store equivalent....

I am sorry, I noticed the Yank flag on your avatar and I assume wrongly. In some places it is art board, the same thickness as the carton on a shoe box but is white on both sides. Sometimes it has a shiny side and a dull side. The dull side is great for water colors but the shiny side is better for plastic acrylics or GW paints. It comes in various colours like construction paper. And is usually used for making large poster or signs. It will not fit in your printer and if cut to paper size it is too thick to go through the rollers of the printer. By the way, that lightning is also made out of paper stock.

Yes I guessed. Cheers muchly for the answers and don't worry about the mistake it's my fault for not getting it sorted out. I'll have a look for some soon.... I used card for a few bits and bobs for my Ork army and theres a few projects this type of stuff will be good for Mordheim buildings come straight to mind!

If you go to spacestation42.com, look at the left column and click on paper toys. this will bring you to a page for all kinds of paper models and there is a section for buildings on Dungeon and Dragons and a myriad of other terrain accessories. The great majority of these items are free.

Enjoy.

Thanks a lot mate your a star, I'll check them fairly soon probably tomorrow. All this help and effort on your part is much appreciated!

Continuing with the road wheels. If you cut the strips from black construction paper, you do not need to paint or color them with a sharpie.

I use a drill bit to the size of the inner hub and rolled the strips around it. I spread the length of the strip with the glue and rolled it as tight as possible. The strip has a tendency to stay loose in some of the turns so you have to keep an eye out for that separation.

I used a punch to cut out the center portion of the roundels. My eyes are not calibrated to find center mass so some of the roundels are off, but not to worry, at the end it will be covered up with a coat of paint and weathering.

I admire your determinatation with this project

Thank you DC. The model is finished, I am just posting it piece-meal. I will finish the commentary later but here are the next batch of pics.

Ok, the wheels are ready for the center hub. The inner small strip acts as a stop. Cut the center hub and place it over the hole. With the appropriate size drill bit, push the hub down until it meets with the inner strip. That is the depth gauge.

Once they are finished, attached them to the center line wheel support pylon. Place the first section on the indicated semi circle in the pylon. Let this side set and work on the other pylon. When both sets of wheels are done, repeat the same procedure to the other side. Line up the wheels with the first set and set aside to completely set. they will support the vehicle, so they have to set completely before attaching them to the hull/track sponsons.

On a different note, once you reduce the plans to 80% or 90%, you will notice that it is almost the same width as the reg Chimera.

As you cans see, there is a center gap in the wheels. This gap was for the center guides. I did make them on the Beta build but I deleted them from the final build.

Once the wheels are set. let's start work on the tracks. Laminate the pads on heavy cardstock. Put them to the side to set while you work on the tracks.

Trace the track on another piece of cardstock and color one side of the strip black or trace it on black construction paper. Wrap it around the the pylons and the road wheels. Trim off excess at the points indicated. Once this is in place, you can glue the track section on the inner track. Do it this way, if you try to advance yourself and glue the inner track and the outer track, it will warp on you when you make the curve around the wheels.

While the track is setting, cut the individual pads and then start to place them on the outer tracks. Place the beveled edges to the outside line of the track. This will insure that you have that center gap. Place the tracks into their respective locations, making sure the off set road wheel is facing forward.

This project is almost at the end, more to come. Next come some of the accessories.

Thanks a lot for that link some great stuff there. I've discovered that the plastic at the base of pizzas seems to take paint well and allows PVA to stick to it it also glues relatively well with superglue so I'm going to try some of the terrain projects using that as a base!

Very, very nice work.

I've really enjoyed the step-step pictures you've taken of the process. It's very interesting to see how another modeler's mind works.

I particularly liked how you made the road wheels. Those combined with the track look great.

Llamahead wrote:Thanks a lot for that link some great stuff there. I've discovered that the plastic at the base of pizzas seems to take paint well and allows PVA to stick to it it also glues relatively well with superglue so I'm going to try some of the terrain projects using that as a base!

Glad that you enjoyed that site. Some of them gives links to other sites and other great Sci-Fi stuff.

Lagduf wrote:Very, very nice work.

I've really enjoyed the step-step pictures you've taken of the process. It's very interesting to see how another modeler's mind works.

I particularly liked how you made the road wheels. Those combined with the track look great.

I came up with that wheel method because I had problems cutting all of those roundels and some were uneven. This way I cut the strips to the same length and I get all the road wheels the same by the rolling method. To make all kinds of cylinders, I also use my tool box. The sockets come in different sizes and I can make larger roundels more accurately as well as cylinders for the barrels. For smaller cylinders I use the mini screwdrivers as a base for rolling or folding the paper. I could not do that with plastic styrene sheets.

The size of the strips will give you the width as well as the feel of a wheel. It also works with larger wheels see pic of the kubelwagen, the wheels were done the same way and the threads were done separately. Now the wheels of the batman tumbler were done with each individual thread glued on. Those wheels were awesome. I would post more but they are not wargaming related. The Kubel is not but it is to give an example.

Well this build is almost at the end. I will get back to this project once I get the hunter killer version going or the Las Turret.

Fuel cans, I made an inside braces to fold the paper around.

The fuel bracket holder should have been glued on first but it worked out.

Cut out the small straps and trim off any excess.

This section is done. The next post should be the last for a while.

I have an old school Rhino, a Lightning and a Thunderbolt build thread, any suggestions as which one is next?

I also have a short build on the landing pad.

Dang.

this is made better than the GW model,wow!!!!!!!!!

like the detail!

Simply awesome. I love the whole project. Do you make stuff with this same technique for a living? Architect maybe?

As to DC I really think he came off the wrong way and is sincere in his apology. I believe DC is actually among the youngest members of Dakka (not an insult DC) and for that he deserves a bit of credit. Fart jokes are funny DC but not everyone will enjoy them; I mean this in your mannerism not your actual jokes.

Very cool - wasn't sure at the start, but looks awesome now it's nearly done.

Thanks for creating the IP to share!

Wrexasaur wrote: I believe DC is actually among the youngest members of Dakka (not an insult DC)

no offence taken. I turned 12 in march. any one younger.
any sorry for hijacking your thread for a miute there. I might steal those fuel cans, they're that awesome!