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I have a few build threads to kick around. the Super Chimera is one of them. On my list are the following for the future; Lightning. Thunderbolt. I have a heavily converted Vulture but no build thread, as well as Dreadnaught and new Rhino, and old Rhino.

This Chimera is a basic chassis upon which I will design a Las cannon turret and Hunter Killer front later in the future. All of my models are strictly done in paper, But the same technique can be applied to sheet styrene. I have other models in my inventory but they are not game pieces, such as the Batman Tumbler and a series of Galactica Vipers and the Raptor. following is the build thread for the Super Chimera. The first pic is the finished model.

I have about 110 Pics in this build, I am not sure if my limit is 30 pics in total, if that is the case, when I get to 25, I may have to delete some pics to continue the build. The first group of pictures are the plans for making this vehicle.

Enjoy

this question is for us computer illiterate: Can I print out the said plans you have on this page & use them as is?

I built a warhound titan once using paper plans , and did it in plasticard. That was to save myself spending £280. But I would rather spend the money buying a chimera that making one ( hey, there are some advantages in haveing a job). Nice as it is , do you do it to save money or for the challenge or to put one over on GW?

Nice, I like the wider tracks.

1. I looked at the format and yes you can use the plans but you may have to reduce them to 80% to be compatible with the game pieces.

2. No, I do not have a thing for GW. This Chimera is different from the Games Workshop. I believe that this piece cannot be used in GW sanctioned games, but may be used in regular gaming with pre-agreement. And Yes, I like the challenge to be able construct something new.

If you think that this is an infringement, wait till you see my Thunderbolt, Rhino and Lightning.

Continuing with my Build. I believe that I should have posted this in the next P&M thread but I guess I will finish it here and the Next build thread I will do it in the appropriate niche. My next build will be the Rhino but modified from the GW version. And now on with the next set of pics.

More build pics. This is one technique for getting a concave done using paper. The paper for this, is cardstock. In the U.S. it is 120 weight paper. It is about the same thickness as a business card. Use the round end of your paint brush and on a felt pad go around the edges until it starts to curl up, and presto, you have a concave hatch cover. For laminating the sides I use posterboard thickness to give it strength. you can also use the cardboard from a shoe box. The glue I use is Elmer's white glue all purpose. In some cases I also use tacky glue and super glue for windshields and precise gluing of small items.

It looks like its been crudely constructed out of templates.

I like it,DIY wargamming is always fun.

Uh DC.... It IS constructed out of templates! Are your eyes only painted on?

Over and out

i know that. wha i mean is it shouldnt look like that. I wouldn't allow anything that...............obvious in a game. needs rivits and stuff.

deadly chicken wrote:i know that. wha i mean is it shouldnt look like that. I wouldn't allow anything that...............obvious in a game. needs rivits and stuff.

Thank you for your benevolence, may it be gratified a thousandfold... This is a strictly paper model but the nuts and bolts can be added on by cutting heads pins off and attaching them with super glue at their desired locations.

This model is an upgrade from the bolt studded vehicles of the Imperial Guard. When WW-II came around with the improved ammo, the studded armor vehicles became death traps. With the danger of spalling, came the added threat of bolts coming loose by receiving a direct impact on their boltheads. They had a tendency to fly around the crew compartment with a deadly purpose.

Here is the tutorial on making the hatches and front cannon. At the time of this build, the cannon casing was too short. There is an updated casing on the misc page of the plans. There are a lot of white edges on the model but do not worry about them now. later on in the build near the end, I will weather the Chimera and take care of all of the white edges. You can color them in as you go along or leave them alone until the end.

I like it! Thats one thing about the game, part of it is the hobby and when people show up with proxies or their own original models, as long as its clear what it is and they put effort into it I say play on.

Also, when it comes to the guard, I think its even more forgiving, you have an army drawn up from thousands of different worlds yet all you can buy is catachan and cadian when it comes to plastic and fielding a guard army can be really expensive. Personally, I like most of the vehicle models but I hate the infantry miniatures, I am on the look out for something else to use for my guard army. Until then I've been using Terra Force paper minis from onemonk.com and I most others don't mind them. Looking at Guard stats, somehow paper infantry seems appropriate.

One thing about the human armies, other than the Ogryns, is that they are at a disadvantage against alien forces. The Eldar are too quick, strike first. Warp spiders are hard to kill. Grav tanks mostly receive glancing blows. Tyranids are a B.... (Rhymes with Witch). Chaos are demon possessed. Can't seem to kill the necrons. the Tau have better vehicles and so on........ The only way for the Imperial guards to come ahead, is to use long range arty and hit the enemy from afar. do not let them get up close or you are done.

One thing I did when I played, was to check the terrain. If they use a sheet of plywood as the terrain base, then estimating distance for my mortars and indirect arty strikes is 80% done. a board is by U.S. measure 4'X8". This gives you an indicator of known distance. If the terrain board is smaller, I casually measure the dimension of the board. I know.... some might think of it as cheating, but I call it reconnaissance.

Well those are some of my tips for the Guard troops. Use anything that reaches out and touch from a distance. Also make use of mines they tend to give nasty surprises to the enemy. It is gratifying when the warp Spiders jump smack into a mine field.

Here is the section where the main body is put together, the troop compartment

That is awesome! Nice one! A little more effort than I would want to put into a model, but a great alternative for the person who loves to scratch build or those that have a limited budget.

Nice work.

I don't have the patience for a project like that.

cant wait to see it painted.

This is great. It really takes me back.

firstly about the fluff i just htink rivits make it look better and add texture. I like your initiative in building your own and i respect that you have the guts to do it all in paper but if you have the weapons for the front, use them! otherwise your enemy may denei (Not sure how to spell) your use of them in a game.

Remember, the templates for this model can be transferred over to sheet styrene, but if you do, you will have to scrounge for the road-wheels. It is hard to form the roadwheels out of styrene but not impossible.

This model is done in a flat color scheme on purpose. I could have weathered the vehicle with my graphics program but then it would be harder to change the colors with different color shades. Thus way, you can use your graphics program and use the paint bucket to change the color and then use the airbtush to grade the shades.

In continuation, the rest of the body with small details added.

Its so adorable!

Tail lights are made by cutting a piece of paper stick from an ear swab (Q-Tip). Wrap the small strip around it and then place the lens section on the end and glue to the rear. I placed mine at the top but you can place them anywhere you want.

On the periscopes, they are not in the plans and the one over the cannon is optional. You can use the long one instead of the short one over the cannon hatch.

The next session will be on the track/sponsons.

Altough i like it, i'd rather buy the GW one.

Cool way to do it and it looks good. A really good idea.
But personally I'll stick with the GW plastic one.


//Edge

I think this is really quite cool. It actually looks a lot nicer in form than the GW Chimera, looks more purposeful and mean.

Apart from the obvious little niggly bits where something's off angle/a bit out, and just a few bolts, this would be a very nice DIY model.

sA


Automatically Appended Next Post:

deadly chicken wrote:i know that. wha i mean is it shouldnt look like that. I wouldn't allow anything that...............obvious in a game. needs rivits and stuff.

You're really starting to piss me off.

Everyone helps you, you come out sneering at other peoples' work. Which is most probably must better than yours.

Smarten up, or get out.

sA

what, I didn't mean to be sneering. and your probaly right its better than mine all i wanted to do was give some CC not be a right idiot. I'm sorry for any offense caused and wish you good luck and that you forgive me. Sorry sA i didn't mean to be a jack-ass.

a very sincere and grateful DC

This project is not designed to replace the GW Chimera, I still have my Chimeras for competition tournaments. As mentioned earlier.... Bolts are missing because this is an updated version with the welded hull construction look. Bolts can be added if you wish with the pin head cut off option. The white edges and separations will be taken care off at the end.

By the way CHICKEN how is your painting techniques, has it improved any?

Next up, the side track covers. The angled sponson is a little large but this is to compensate for the laminated skirt. When that is in place and the glue sets, trim of the excess.

NOTE: There are a few who look with disfavor at my model thinking of it as a replacement or to cut cost. I am in the habit of making dioramas and as such, it is easier and cheaper to build a diorama with a knock-off than to to use a playing piece. Almost all of my paper models are for display purposes, not for gaming.

One thing about a model, when it is on a shelf, it is just a model. But when you place it in a situation, it is ACTION.

The first pic is one of my creations which are posted at Webshots.com. It is my Lehman Russ in a village setting. I lost my original art cd so I will post some of my creations at a lower quality.

And now for the continuation of my build.... This is the roadwheel support. The difference between this and other armor vehicles, is that the main support for the wheels is on the center portion of the support. The wheels are not attached to the hull like in a traditional vehicle. The plans have a strip for the thickness of the center support. You need to laminate this part to the thickness indicated. This way the wheels are separated and can allow for the track guide to be used. On this model I did not make the guides but they can be made. I did them on the Beta build but I decided not to on the final build.