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I can say that I own one of the paint shakers and it works very very well for me. Its a Dad/Son small company that makes and sell em and I think I ordered mine on ebay. I am a layer painter and will premix all my colors before starting on an army. Once I get my colors in the pots I will put em on the paint shaker for a few minutes and know they are well mixed. Then I let em steep for a day or two and remix but man this thing saves my arms hehe. It is a little noisy and I have added a screw to keep the part that the bottle sits on in place. It has a very short cord and when doing alot of mixing I will either place on the floor or strap it to my table (its like the old vibration football game and will walk all over the table if you dont hehe). Still I would recommend the product.

I got it but I can't do an accurate review for the sand blaster. As it needs to work with a pressure of 60psi and my compressor only runs about 45. It worked great for about 10 minutes until moisture came through the gun. The dust goes everywhere.

That Buffalo grass is amazing! It doesn't appear to have a shiny texture, which annoys the hell outta me with the stuff I'm using now.

Thanks for the tip, and thanks for the topic! This is gonna get expensive...

Also on the tamiya drill. I can't find it anywhere in the US. Stores keep saying it's not out yet. ><

http://www.sourcingmap.com/beauty-salon-one-manicure-pedicure-nail-trimming-kit-p-30890.html

As opposed to using a dremel, try this at a lower price. Probably not as strong but I promise you my nails did not look pretty the first time I tried this on them. I have now put mine to good use filing away everything from dark elf markings on a chariot to removing mold lines (on pewter models). Runs off batteries and is small and portable with a lovely little pouch that carries everything.

I got one of those Tamiya drills a few years ago - they are indeed wonderful, their low speed makes them perfect for working with plastic without melting it.

hmm this seems like a good place to post a tool question. anyone have any recomendations on hot-wire foam cutters?

I have seen a mini-tutorial on how to make one. I will see if I can find it. Not sure whether it is worth it to buy one.

Here you go, make sure you are careful, it is about as dangerous as a glue gun.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242337.page#746567

Come to think of it I am not sure whether they explain how to make the Hot-wire cutter, you could P.M. them if you can't find the information though.

Wrexasaur wrote:I bought some sculpting tools along with color shapers. They feel great, and seem like they will last a very long time. The tips feels like silk, it is hard to describe.

I have not had a chance to try them out, but from the looks of it, these color/clay shapers are as effective on GS as heavy flamers are on Eldar rangers.

( super cool nerd glasses )

About the color shapers. They come with tips in three colors representing how stiff they are: white, grey and black. The black ones are called clayshapers instead since they are the stiffest and most suitable for sculpting. I highly recommend them! Perfect if you are using a softer material like magisculpt.

Bursley: So the problem is with moister? Can you dry it out to use again?

and how did it do removing paint? Or weathering?

With regards to the sand blaster any chance of a vid of it in action? (I realise its underpowered but I'd like to see it in action still)

Great stuff.....Thanks

My only complaint about the RinseWell is that you have to empty a lot of the water out the trully rinse the well out. The water flows down the center and straight down the drain and dosen't do a avery good job rinsing around the side.
Other than that, it's a cool idea.

I prefer a mixer to a shaker when painting.


http://www.micromark.com/CORDLESS-MIXER-FOR-MODEL-PAINTS,7616.html

How does that weathering powder work? It looks very interesting.

Hobby Lobby has a 40% off coupon on their website.

I picked up a wire foam cutter for $12 with it yesterday. I think I'm going to go back and pick up one of those $70 resin casting sets with it today. The coupon will get it down to about $40.

Mini sand blasters- part of my air brush tool box.

First- they make an unholy mess. The powder goes everywhere. I thought I'd be smart and use it outside. Outside, july, sweat, flying powder.....ya....not such a good idea.


These are called Air Erasers, there are a couple models available besides the Paasche, I got mine off ebay for 40$, and then found out Harbor Freight sells one for 20$.

They work ok for strippin paint of a few minis, but they arent omg wonderful. I still use a brush & Superclean for most stuff and might use the Miniblaster if I need to chase paint off their face or some other detail area.

To really use one of these Id suggest a regular compressor, with an on tank moisture trap, and an inline trap too. They run up to 65 PSI or so, the one I have can go up to 90 psi, but that kinda pressure would blow plastic minis across the yard, so I keep it at about 60.

I just picked up this 'custom decal system' from my local model shop:-

http://www.testors.com/product/136937/9198/_/Custom_Decal_System

I wont be using the included software as I have Photoshop and Illustrator but I'll let you guys know how things turn out.

It was 12 bucks Canadian, and I thought it looked like a good little pack to test the waters with. For the size of decals most of us need, this pack would probably last a LOOOooonnngg time.

StubbyGB wrote:I just picked up this 'custom decal system' from my local model shop:-

http://www.testors.com/product/136937/9198/_/Custom_Decal_System

I wont be using the included software as I have Photoshop and Illustrator but I'll let you guys know how things turn out.

It was 12 bucks Canadian, and I thought it looked like a good little pack to test the waters with. For the size of decals most of us need, this pack would probably last a LOOOooonnngg time.

That looks to be a much better deal than the micro mark one. Keep us posted on how they turn out

satanslandlady wrote:
http://www.sourcingmap.com/beauty-salon-one-manicure-pedicure-nail-trimming-kit-p-30890.html

As opposed to using a dremel, try this at a lower price. Probably not as strong but I promise you my nails did not look pretty the first time I tried this on them. I have now put mine to good use filing away everything from dark elf markings on a chariot to removing mold lines (on pewter models). Runs off batteries and is small and portable with a lovely little pouch that carries everything.

Hi I'm Andy Frogman and I approve this message!

tHey aren't all that good for attaching drill bits, but for an electric sander and grinder these do really work well. In a simmilar vain a cheap or old electric toothbrush will work wonders on keeping models and equipment clean. I used the toothbrush to strip a few models a while back.

Went by Harbor Frieght and Tool on lunch break yesterday (yes they are open on Sunday) and picked up their air eraser. It did not come with any grit (grrr) and I did not have a chance to play with it yet. As soon as I do though, I will post a review.

I do have a question, what is everyone using for Grit? Sand or Baking Soda (for lighter abrasion maybe)?

I use the Testors decal paper & spray too. It works really good. I also like how the pages are half sized instead of a full 8.5x11 so you don't waste a big piece to just print out a few decals. I made a big logo sheet for my chaos marines for shoulder pad emblems and numbers for tanks and all that stuff. Also did the same for my baneblade. Only problem is the decals are transparent so if your models have dark colors, you can't print light colored decals and have them show up good.. works better with a lighter colored model and darker colored decal. it's just because regular inkjet printers can't print white.

Has anyone tried the Ultrasonic Cleaner from Micro-Mark?
I was thinking of using it for my Simple Green mini soakings to get into the small detail spaces.

$75 is a bit steep, but if it saves a lot of effort, could be worth it.

This is an awesome thread. Noticed theres not much UK based stuff though so here's my effort

Wrexasaur wrote:This little hoozy-whatsit is nearly twice the price from my local hardware store... man. http://www.micromark.com/4-ARM-HOLDING-JIG,7173.html
AND this one is ten times cooler.

This one here is £6.10 from fast track models.


http://www.fasttrackmodels.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=55_89_193&products_id=459

satanslandlady wrote:
http://www.sourcingmap.com/beauty-salon-one-manicure-pedicure-nail-trimming-kit-p-30890.html

As opposed to using a dremel, try this at a lower price. Probably not as strong but I promise you my nails did not look pretty the first time I tried this on them. I have now put mine to good use filing away everything from dark elf markings on a chariot to removing mold lines (on pewter models). Runs off batteries and is small and portable with a lovely little pouch that carries everything.

You can get them in those poundland/ pound store/pound something places in the uk. For...a pound.

I find an empty bottle of baby Tylenol works great for a painting tool. I clean it out with hot water, and then fill it with water,soapy water. It has a built in eye dropper. Great and handy lol

Quite right, BrookM - for anyone out there not already using polystyrene glue like this, give it a try, you won't be sorry! It's so so much more accurate than tube glue.

Only downer is keeping that bitch of a needle clear and unclogged over time.

I use two of these, the Revell Kontakta for the precision work while the other is a UHU plast which is a bigger bottle with a more generous flow.

My Revell pro has clogged up. I need to soak the needle in acetone.

Liquid polystyrene cement is very good for a lot of assembly tasks.

Cotton buds have a variety of uses.

A mounted needle can be handy.

ah yes, the clogging (especially in summer, it's winter over here so I'd forgotten about it!) - that's the only downside of those glues. As a declogger, I use a plastic twist tie from which the plastic has been mostly stripped (i.e. leaving just the wire core) - the remaining plastic end is rolled up into a handle, the stripped end is left straight, ready for poking down those narrow glue tubes. Works great.

As long as I put the cap on immediately after I don't seem to get the problem. But then there are times when you need to hold the part in place and hence can't put on the cap immediately. Sometimes I find if you pinch the end with your finger nails it clears up.