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I've never heard of Vallejo liquid mask, is that what it's designed for? Is it difficult to chip off?

Yep, its designed for pretty much this purpose. It peels off quite easily when rubbed with some poster tac or an eraser.

I'm looking forward to this, definitley subscribing.

Just a tip on those tamiya sprays, I experimented with them in the past and found that they weren't really ideal for painting over. The paint sort of slid off of them if that makes any sense, instead of having good tooth like painting over a primer. To remedy this however if you give them a light dusting of something like testors dull cote it will not only bring down their shine a bit but provide some more tooth for painting over. This was my experience, if you can get away without having to do that all the better but I know I personally found them a bit unfriendly to paint over in acrylics.

migsula wrote:

3. reprimed with a lovely, metallid dark red, called Tamiya Mica Red
and
4. follow with Tamiya Italian Red, super bright, "ferrari" red spray applied at about 45degree angle from 20cm above the models (front and back)
this is where I am currently, the figs looking like they had a bath in fresh blood - quite fitting I would say, then
and picking up the brush and vallejo paints I hope paint sticks nicely to this Tamiya spray, and the chipping comes off as well as on the test piece.

GumbaFish wrote:Just a tip on those tamiya sprays, I experimented with them in the past and found that they weren't really ideal for painting over. The paint sort of slid off of them if that makes any sense, instead of having good tooth like painting over a primer. To remedy this however if you give them a light dusting of something like testors dull cote it will not only bring down their shine a bit but provide some more tooth for painting over. This was my experience, if you can get away without having to do that all the better but I know I personally found them a bit unfriendly to paint over in acrylics.

Please let us know if this works. My experience matches Gumbafish's. Great colors from Tamiya, but hard to paint over.

btw -- nice thread. almost two pages and no pics

good luck and take care

A bit late to the thread, but have to say I completely agree on your assessment of the models there Migs, got my hands on them at a GW local store a couple of weeks back. They do indeed herald a new era in miniature CAD sculpting. So much so, I am going to be even MORE critical of GW models in future since we have seen now what they can really do.

Look forward to the results of your painting system and a more visceral terminator scheme. Don't cut yourself on the stealer claws, happening a lot among my hobby pals, I guess there is a price for great detail

best!
Tael.

GumbaFish wrote:Just a tip on those tamiya sprays, I experimented with them in the past and found that they weren't really ideal for painting over. The paint sort of slid off of them if that makes any sense, instead of having good tooth like painting over a primer. To remedy this however if you give them a light dusting of something like testors dull cote it will not only bring down their shine a bit but provide some more tooth for painting over. This was my experience, if you can get away without having to do that all the better but I know I personally found them a bit unfriendly to paint over in acrylics.

I was expecting something like this might be an issue based on how solid and slippery the finish feels. I even voiced my fears to a few experienced friends - so I am very thenkful for the tip. I'll keep you guys posted.

Migsula,
I'd like to make one small suggestion concerning rebuilding the bases.
Currently the models' shoulders, eyeline, direction of weapon and base edges are all over the place.
While this does give the models stacks of dynamism it actually makes playing the game somewhat harder.
Check the facings of the models and build the bases up to 'square' perpendicular to either the eyeline, shoulders, eyeline or direction of weapon (just be consistent).
What with the models' facing being rather important in Spacehulk it would make it a bit more instantly obvious where the model is looking.

I'm really looking forward to this keep us posted.

This sounds like its going to be amazing. Can't wait for the fist piccies!

Look forward to the results of your painting system and a more visceral terminator scheme. Don't cut yourself on the stealer claws, happening a lot among my hobby pals, I guess there is a price for great detail

QFT, those things freaking HURT!

Alex Kolodotschko wrote:Migsula,
I'd like to make one small suggestion concerning rebuilding the bases.
Currently the models' shoulders, eyeline, direction of weapon and base edges are all over the place.
While this does give the models stacks of dynamism it actually makes playing the game somewhat harder.
Check the facings of the models and build the bases up to 'square' perpendicular to either the eyeline, shoulders, eyeline or direction of weapon (just be consistent).
What with the models' facing being rather important in Spacehulk it would make it a bit more instantly obvious where the model is looking.

I'm really looking forward to this keep us posted.

Yes it's a good suggestion! I am considering adding a stylized "facing" shape on the bases.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Ok - Baal, we have a problem - trying out new things is adventurous.

As discussed, Tamiya spray posing problems. Tried both washes and paints, both react adversely. Going to try thinned Johnson Clear layer, before moving to GW ard coat dusting...

But, the base color itself is nice, and the revealing chipped effect works nicely and will be an absolute pleasure to define with paint. I also need to start work on the bases soon. With facing indicators as discussed.

Few images - nothing exciting like I warned. But see on the image, how the models in the middle, under the spotlight appear more orange! The basecoat has a really nice reaction to light. I hope to maintain some of that through the process.

MOAR!!!!

great project Migsula and some really interesting ideas.

I can't wait to see how this progresses, I'm sure its going to be an absolute joy to watch grow!

Holy Horus's Balls that is a red the puts a ferrari to shame!

cant wait to see more

Lush. In fact, luscious. That combination of reds really is glorious. So deep, but really vibrant. I hope the suggested technique will give the coat enough "tooth" for the next stages of painting.

Yeah, that really is a spicy red. Should be a good base to start of with. How thick is the red really though? It kinda looks tremendously thick, but I think thats due to the shine. The reaction caused is also interesting.

this process of red has really interested me. Where did you get the ferrari red? Is it a model paint, or actual automotive paint. It seems very very shiny heheh. I dont want to be a pain but an actual layout, or step by step would be really awesome on a spare piece of plastic or what ever. Hope you are able to solve your problems.

Flachzange wrote:Yeah, that really is a spicy red. Should be a good base to start of with. How thick is the red really though? It kinda looks tremendously thick, but I think thats due to the shine. The reaction caused is also interesting.

It's the gloss, it's very thin actually, seems to cope very well with detail - more so than GW PRIMERS - but the shine really makes it look thick, as there is a reflection at the base of each detail! (When I'm done, it will be a matte shade at the base of each detail)

migsula wrote:... the shine really makes it look thick, as there is a reflection at the base of each detail! (When I'm done, it will be a matte shade at the base of each detail)

I was going to ask about that, it really looks like the model detail is obscured by thick paint.

Bummer. When I read the title I though you were going to build a gaming table, now it's only a painting blog

Looking forward to the finished version migs.

Very nice vibrant red.I will be very interested to see how this progresses,give us an update soon!

The red looks good so far. I also especially like the pimp cane the Librarian has.

SoG

Interesting technique. Now I know what you meant about the red being RED... Do you think you'll able to keep the shiny effect after highlighting and shading and stuff?

That red is so vibrant. Really good looking atm. I really hope that you can get the paint to work. Good luck!!

I am intrigued. I was kinda disappointed that you weren't building up a red using your usual techiques, as I wanted to steal them for my own figs But that red is so deep and vibrant at the same time, I can see why you are trying this route. Also looking forward to how you tackle the stealers.

I have used Tamiya sprays and ran into the same issue. I used testors dull coat and that added enough teeth to to allow paint to flow nomally. Have done the same with woodstained figs also. So basically seconding others experiences. Dunno if that would work with your planned washes but it is something to try.

That spray although nice in color looks like it would add to much extra work rather than saving you time as a spray on color should . I think I would rather work up my reds from a white or black primer than work with that stuff .

though I cant wait to see what you do with these models .

Those are very red indeed, I know I bought a can of that mica red not knowing it was sort of a candy metallic and boy was I glad I used a test piece first! I hope giving them a dusting of dull cote or something similar works for you, those look even shinier than the colors I experimented with. In the end as others pointed out I found the tamiya sprays to be more of a bother than a time saver, but I hope your experience is better as that is definately an interesting take on red I would like to see materialize into a finished product.

slann wrote:That spray although nice in color looks like it would add to much extra work rather than saving you time as a spray on color should .

Why? It took all of 2 sets of ten minutes to apply?

TODAY

I am torn between the testor and GW, as people have tried the first, but I would want to hold on to some of the sheen, and have manual control on how much want it to be seen...

hmmm...

and I haven't got the chance to screw up really.

migsula wrote:

Why? It took all of 2 sets of ten minutes to apply?

I am torn between the testor and GW, as people have tried the first, but I would want to hold on to some of the sheen, and have manual control on how much want it to be seen...

You could always hit it with the testors dull cote, work the models then come back with a ard coat or similar painted on for maximum control.

Your plan may also work -- why not take some sorta throwaway fig and try it out on that? Gotta have an extra space marine lying around, or really any model.