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AK907554 wrote:Does anyone know of any other effective chemicals for stripping that can be found in america?

Simple Green is the one I always hear about people using. There's lots of different things to use though, for instance, a friend told me to use brake fluid, but you have to worry about actually messing up the details on the model with that stuff. You can't let it sit for very long at all.

There are plenty, but this tutorial is on how well LATA works for a stripper. Ive used a couple others over the years, and this one works better/just as well as the others Ive used, and is FAR cheaper then the rest.

i use acetone free nail polish remover on plastic which only takes around fifteen minutes, and nitro mors on metal. it does the job excellently, and both methods take less soaking than anything else ive tried.
having said that, the nail polish remover does make the plastic soft for a while, but it does harden again after what i suspect is weeks, i used it on a battlesuit and didn't look at it again for several weeks, and it was fine.

Damn you America and your easily available solvent. We need to do with Ye Olde Browne Dettol.

Yea but it works right? Like I said, if I knew it wouldnt be a hassle to ship chemicals into your country, or cost me an arm and a leg to get it there, Id send some....but alas.....

Hmm, I think I've seen this stuff at the Dollar store. I'll have to try it out.

InquisitorVaron wrote:I was wondering if this works on resin?

I was also curious about this, has anyone tried yet?

Like I said, if I can get my hands on something resin Ill give it a shot, but as of yet, nope, no resin tests

I've heard a lot of people say that LA awesome works but I can never get it to work for me, I've had a lot of good luck with simple green though, that stuff is strong!

Works like a charm, thanks KingCraker, just throwing the two models that didn't strip back in.

Dual Face wrote:I've heard a lot of people say that LA awesome works but I can never get it to work for me, I've had a lot of good luck with simple green though, that stuff is strong!

Thats odd, what did you paint them with? Like I said, I had a mish mash of different paints in there and they all came off with ease

When people stick their hands in chemicals that you have NOT checked the MSDS sheet concerning what EXACTLY is in it, someone that is asking for trouble. Use GLOVES and a WELL VENTILATED AREA when stripping models.

I've been doing modeling for 40+ years. My expertise is the safe use of stripping models and have written a article or two about this aspect. Just not at this site... yet.

There is nothing special about this product as this product has small amounts Sodium Hydroxcide, Trisodium Phospate, Sodium Silicate (Meta), Ethoxylate Alcohol, and a Orange oil blend (plus water of course) as its chemical make up.

Moral of the story, know the chemical make up of what you are using before just doing it.

KingCracker wrote:

Dual Face wrote:I've heard a lot of people say that LA awesome works but I can never get it to work for me, I've had a lot of good luck with simple green though, that stuff is strong!

Thats odd, what did you paint them with? Like I said, I had a mish mash of different paints in there and they all came off with ease

I've used Dork Tower Primer, some GW primer here and there, some floquil primer (which I think is absolutely horrible) and lately, I've been using formula P3 primer with huge success

now to find the dollar store...

Adam LongWalker wrote:When people stick their hands in chemicals that you have NOT checked the MSDS sheet concerning what EXACTLY is in it, someone that is asking for trouble. Use GLOVES and a WELL VENTILATED AREA when stripping models.

I've been doing modeling for 40+ years. My expertise is the safe use of stripping models and have written a article or two about this aspect. Just not at this site... yet.

There is nothing special about this product as this product has small amounts Sodium Hydroxcide, Trisodium Phospate, Sodium Silicate (Meta), Ethoxylate Alcohol, and a Orange oil blend (plus water of course) as its chemical make up.

Moral of the story, know the chemical make up of what you are using before just doing it.

Obviously you dont want to take a trip down the chemical solvent isle and just toss a dart at one and guess it works. But, being that LA's Totally Awesome is a house hold cleaner and can be used in day to day cleaning, Im pretty sure your safe. But yea, use gloves and a mask if the area isnt well ventilated and you plan on using this stuff often.

I found the LATA bottles in my local Wal-Mart so I gave it a go on some SMs that my son painted. 24hr soak, a little brushing, and about 99% of the paint was gone.

I also found that a couple of the glued on parts came off. Not sure if it was due to the soak or due to the amount of glue actually used to attach (it was testors model cement).

But in either case, great tutorial. Thanks

Yup I had a similar experience with a couple minis coming unglued. I figured it was because the guy I got them from, was a total cheap ass and used a little glue as possible but maybe LATA does dissolve glue a bit. Not really a big deal as gluing minis back together is pretty simple, but still worth noting.

I shall be trying the Dettol theory this week sometime. I have been given a load of layered thick RTB01's to try to strip.

Hope I can as I'm sworn off buying anything else GW for the next, however long it takes them to come to thier senses!

If I use the Acetone stuff, do I have to keep a really close eye on them? Or can I disappear for an hour or so then come back to them?

Obviously you dont want to take a trip down the chemical solvent isle and just toss a dart at one and guess it works. But, being that LA's Totally Awesome is a house hold cleaner and can be used in day to day cleaning, Im pretty sure your safe. But yea, use gloves and a mask if the area isnt well ventilated and you plan on using this stuff often.

A chemical is a chemical and the human body absorbs and stores foreign substances for months to years, and that is my warning. I have seen what happens when people ignore simple safety procedures. Disfigurement and death.

This is not something you take for granted. The product you are using works for certain paints.

I am not not expressing how lousy the product is and you should not use it

I am expressing how you have to be ALWAYS safe in how you use the product. ANY product.

And that means the use of gloves (and other safety procedures) and to be done in a well ventilated area.

Thanks for your recommendation King, I had to strip alot of stuff that I had bought from someone who had base coated everything black (For my stuff I base in white). I was able to soak it for 8 hours and the paint came right off, with exception of a little staining but it is so minor.

I will be using it from now on.

Glad I could help. Also, I always thought your avatar was creepy as all get out

anyone able to speak to the availability of this product north of the border? i've tried walmart, home depot, MWW, zellers, crappy tire, janitor's warehouse, and have come up at a loss.

You guys have dollar stores up there right?

Warm Simple Green left on top of a running dryer. Seriously the extra vibration and warmth will strip a mini in about 2 hours.

Ah! Another amazing use for Totally Awesome! I used to buy this stuff all the time when I worked at a Dollar General...i never though to use it on paint stripping.

Thanks

Well the name alone has sold me, thanks for the info

Sarpedon_702 wrote:Warm Simple Green left on top of a running dryer. Seriously the extra vibration and warmth will strip a mini in about 2 hours.

Says you Simple Green Heathen!! Ive used the stuff in tests before and no way would it strip paint off in 2 hours. Ive heard people try doing that in an oven, but not only do I not want to heat those AWESOME chemicals in my oven, Im not a big fan of simple green. It works sure...but uh....thats as far as Ill go with it

I might agree with you for Plastic figures, but It strips metal even faster than that. And if you have a jewelry cleaner A vibration bath it'll strip them in no time at all.

Well I stripped metal minis as well, and Im not sure when the fastest time was to strip them, as they were WAY faster then the plastics were. If I had to guess Id say half the time? Buts a no brainer really, because paints to bond to metals like they do to plastics.




Also your talking about adding extra things to make your minis look exactly the same as mine did, in the same general time frame for more money. This is a strip your army for $5 tutorial. Not goto the ATM and pull out 2 20 spots so you can strip paint!!! tutorial

sarpedons-right-hand wrote:
Hope I can as I'm sworn off buying anything else GW for the next, however long it takes them to come to thier senses!

My position exactly.



I picked up some LA's Totally Awesome, and oh man does does it work great. You have to have some patience, as it takes about 24 hrs for a good soak; but I have gotten the model 99.9% clean with the stuff. Works especially well on Metals.

I also picked up some LA's Totally Awesome Pine Cleaner, and it works well too. Might have to let it sit a little bit longer though. I picked it up at the same time, because it comes in a jug that is twice as big (64oz) for the same $1.00.


Here is a LA's Totally Awesome store locator. These are most of the stores that carry it.
http://www.lastotallyawesome.com/html/Store_Locator.html

Also, if you don't live near a Dollar Tree or other place that sells it, you can bulk order it from Dollar Tree. 12 for $12 for the normal stuff, or 6 for $6 for the pine.
LA's Totally Awesome All-Purpose Concentrated Cleaner 32 oz.

LA's Totally Awesome All- Purpose Pine Cleaner, 64 oz.