Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Natorum wrote:

Kanluwen wrote:

Natorum wrote:Tamiya light grey primer for me. It's a good quality primer and if I want to paint areas black before adding other colours on top for shading purposes then a single coat of paint and I'm done.

The one thing I have to add about this is Tamiya's Light Grey "Fine Surface Primer" is an enamel primer. It is very clingy and can futz up very easily.

Buyer be warned.

I've been fortunate so far that I haven't had any issues with it coating vehicles and figures but I've only used it in low humidity environments and made sure to shake it well. Thanks for the heads up though.

See, it's weird. I spray in a low humidity environment as well--but it's simply a case of if there's a temperature change during the '12 hour recommended set time' from Tamiya the stuff can futz up.

White is the best if you are confident in your painting ability. Black is best for speed painting.

Don't almost all the professional golden demon winning painters that focus on quality over quantity use White Primer?

GW assumes most people are going to suck esp. in the beginning while painting and black will make your crappy tabletop quality or less paint job look less crap so they promote the black primer to cushion the blow.

I'm pretty sure the Eavy Metal paint team probably uses white for most everything.

 Ouze wrote:
Depends on what color the finished product is going to be. You want bright colors, use white. You want dark or metallics, use black. I do my red Killa Kans in white, and my Deffskulls and Goffs in black. Sometimes I even use both on the same model: for my newest Ork Trukk (Bad Moonz), I prime the frame and engine and wheels and stuff black, and then prime the bed and armor plates white seperately, since they will be yellow in the end.

I agree with Ouze. Really depends on what the final result is. Typically I separate it (literally) bit-by-bit. The Deathwatch project I'm currently working on has a lot of helmet-less heads, perhaps typical for Deathwatch as I'm experiencing, so I generally assemble my marines in full just without the head (or cape, if they have one and I want it to be bright and/or colorful) and prime it black. I then take the head and prime it white while suspended on the end of a toothpick with some tack. For my IF army I settled on using grey primer to dampen my yellow, as using white primer made my marines look like shiny oversized kernels of butter popcorn. I also typically use black primer for my BA marines with a thinned mephiston red as a base coat to make the red slightly more subtle, but if you're looking for the "little red corvette" bright look, you'd want to go grey, or white for sunglasses-bright.

I also make use of liquid mask if there are particular details I don't want to hit with that color/shade primer if it is already glued down or is not actually removable. It's a pain especially when batch painting as it takes time away, but when you make the investment, the results are fantastic.

Tinker with different shades and also, try different ratios of paint:medium in both your primer and first base coat to really dial in the desired color/brightness/contrast you're looking for once you settle on a color scheme.

Black.

For multiple miniatures, zenithal priming with black then other colors. I've done a black primer followed by a colored one by Army Painter, then a wash.

If it's an individual miniature, it's easier for me to brush-prime, which means I can do light areas in white, dark areas in black, and maybe do some greyscaling.

After priming, I may wash, depending on the color of the area painted.

Thread is being locked due to thread necromancy.