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The Vallejo racks are ace, and the GW not bad. Above them though- that is fething brilliant to use kitchen drawer dividers mounted flat to hold paints and things. If you glued a couple popsicle sticks across the long, vertical slot on the right, you could store brushes, coffee stirrers or other long unwieldy objects that spill all over the painting desk! I'm stealing that.

 Theophony wrote:
I am so looking forward to making that print once this KS ends and delivers.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
So while looking for an answer to fixing my SD card I may have learned the issue. I bought a 64GB micro SD, seems with having to format it as a FAT32, FAT32 cannot save files over 4GB . No wonder its larger prints that I keep loosing. Plus i'll need to partition ( ) the drive. I'll look into that later. Basically even though I have a 64GB drive it can also only hold up to 32GB of material or it'll crash. Makes no sense to me, but TECHNOLOGY .

Reformating the disk now.

What did you reformat the card to to be able to put larger files on and use the entire disk space?

Cool. I'm happy to hear that the terrain is fdm optimized. I hate having to mess with supports.

Speaking of, I've been printing stuff from Rebel Minis' stl Kickstarter. While pretty much everything needs supports, the quality of the models has, so far, been top notch. When I get home tonight, I'll have to get a pic of the Infiltrator Bike i printed. It has a curved top to it and the thing is smooth. If not for the cleanup i still need to do to remove some of the support scarring, you probably wouldn't even be able to tell it was printed with an fdm printer.

That's a fine tuned fdm printer, Barzam! I'd like to see the pic when you can get it.

 MDSW wrote:

 Theophony wrote:
I am so looking forward to making that print once this KS ends and delivers.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
So while looking for an answer to fixing my SD card I may have learned the issue. I bought a 64GB micro SD, seems with having to format it as a FAT32, FAT32 cannot save files over 4GB . No wonder its larger prints that I keep loosing. Plus i'll need to partition ( ) the drive. I'll look into that later. Basically even though I have a 64GB drive it can also only hold up to 32GB of material or it'll crash. Makes no sense to me, but TECHNOLOGY .

Reformating the disk now.

What did you reformat the card to to be able to put larger files on and use the entire disk space?

I stupidy just put dozens and dozens of files on there and took up more space than I should have, which is what caused the crash. Creality also said not to have file names longer than 12 characters, I have to get better about that.

Hmmm.... I haven't put that many files on my SD cards yet, but I'm a "I paid for it, Imma gonna use it" kind of guy (drat those Depression Era parents and their thrifty values!) I better take a look and make sure I'm not crowding the edge of the envelope!

Well, the Anycubic anniversary sale got me and I now have a Photon and a wash/cure machine on the way... The research begins in earnest tomorrow, but in the mean time, just throwing out some general feelers on the best resin to use, any decent settings profiles, pitfalls to look out for, that sort of thing. Basically, what should a noob know about the Photon?

And I will write all this down, as a resin printer is next for me.....

The sale almost got me. Hope it works out for you.

Forgive my potato quality phone camera and my messy first layer of paint. You can see how smooth the canopy is on the bike though. The top looks good, but the underside is fairly messy since that's where most of the supports were.

SirayaTech Fast Grey resin was recommended to me for mini printing and I've only ever used it. Flat out great for my purposes, and while I sometimes wish I could faff around with all those bright colored resins I see out there, I don't really have a reason to downgrade, so shrug. You can get it on Amazon for $30-35.

I also just found this, might be relevant: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/ctm95t/sirayatech_fast_resin_printing_settings/

Well back in cheap FDM printing

Lord (of the Dance) Borak is breaking in a few good men for a Ballet of Death. Sometimes the Long War has just gone on too long .

There are just too many great models out there to print.

@Barzam: That is an amazing print for an FDM printer- very nice! I like the model itself, too. Imagine a squad of cyber-ninja Roughriders on THOSE!

@Boss Salvage: I've heard/read good things about SirayaTech, nice to see validation/verification. And thank you for all the reading material on getting the best results.

@Theo: Each of those dancing figures needs to be holding a thornless, long-stemmed rose Dirty Dancin', indeed! Nice printing, very smooth.

Following Meer_Cat's rose suggestion, I now can't get the vision of two Deathguard doing the same pose with their stomach-mouths holding dead roses between their teeth... disgusting

Welp, not unexpectedly the second bowden tube coupler between the tube and the extruder burned out (wore out all its widdle teef) and is now useless. I'd been after the company via online chat and email about where to get these unicorn couplers- as they are completely unlike anything else any other printer has ever used or will ever use. Tonight I called and asked where to get either more couplers, a different extruder that can accept Mk-4 or Mk-6 couplers or I was going to have to go with yet another printer from yet another manufacturer. They'll 'open a case number' and 'get back to me'.

I was smart(er) I think and ordered this Monoprice product from Amazon- so next step is to contact them and report a faulty product and see about exchange or refund. I really don't want to do that, because other than the weak bowden tube coupler, the printer has performed extremely well.

In the meantime, I have two entire quadrants (2 square feet) of parts to paint, and even some from the other two quadrants- so it isn't like I don't have things to keep me busy.

It's the downtime for the machine; every minute I waste trying to obtain a part that isn't intended to be serviced in the first place is a minute I'm not printing something I need/want for later.

Honestly, it's enough to make me go back to scratchbuilding with the bits I scavenge out of the gutters!

That’s really strange on the couplers . I’m sure they will sort it out, it just sucks that it will be down for a while.

Problem (temporarily) resolved! Heard back from Monoprice:

- the type of extruder on the MP10-Mini and some other models "new and improved"

- The issue with the connector (they don't call it a coupler, but it is) is a known problem caused by the bowden tube flexing as filament is pushed through

- A LOT of people have been submitting complaints and wanting to know where to get replacements

- They don't sell the connector except as part of the whole extruder (which they are out of)

HOWEVER (and this is the part that really surprised me): They gave me the website of a company called GigDigit that makes replacement connects. I ordered a bag of 10 for US10.

AND GigDigit gave the Thingiverse address for a file that you can print that acts as an adaptor for the new fangled extruder and a standard Mk-6 bowden tube connector.

I'm a belt and suspenders man- I ordered multiple new type connectors to get back in business, but I'm downloading the adaptor from Thingiverse so I can use all the spare Mk-6 couplers I have left over from trying to make my Ender-3 Pro work.

Mwa-hahahahahahah!!!!!!!!

Glad the issue is resolved. Sounds a lot like the parts on the Ender that Capricorn tubing replaces the couplers when they send you tubes. The original connectors have plastic teeth that break, the Capricorn ones have metal teeth.

That is certainly a better solution than what I ended up doing - I crazy glued the tube! I got so tired of it coming loose during a print. The rare times I had to take it apart I just clipped the end, as there was a bit of slack.

I will now try your new connectors if i fire up the Ender again!

Been printing almost nonstop. Each 4 paint rack takes 3 hours. I want/ need twice as many

That is awesome!!

Copied over from the new 3D printing forum .

Yeah, A 3D thread I won’t have to manage ......sucker .

My name is Theo and 3D printing Addict .

Printer: Ender 3 (Regular, not a pro, though I have added just about all the upgrades to make mine a pro)
Current Project: getting my hobby desk organized. Printing paint racks.
Next Project: too many ideas, but most likely more terrain for Frostgrave, Ragnarok, Bushido or Gaslands.

This mornings print fresh off the Ender 3.

The picture is actually very important. The left is a raft that I print whenever I’m doing tiny or multiple parts to make sure nothing breaks free. The five holy strips on the right are the five no sag back pieces for a section of army painter dropper bottle racks. I recently adjusted my raft air gap to 0.4mm and these came off with little fuss as opposed to the pain of the last few prints where the air gap was 0.2mm and I had to cut the parts off.

I just started printing the sides (2) of the rack and will do the fronts tonight when I get home from work.

This is the Thingiverse item number 3263946 by Montbel which is based off of the same design by bbzed, it just has some added struts to keep the bars from sagging due to the weight of the bottles. Here is a profile of the bbzed model printed, one of my first prints from months ago.

Material wise the 30 bottle section of rack will cost me $3.44 to print for the first one and $2.90 for each additional section as the end of one can be used for the next side.

I’ve spent the last four days printing pegboard racks for my GW paints. Here is a picture of about half of them that I have done. Thingiverse item 1374310 by ShadyRabbit.

That part cost $0.42 each and takes about 3 hours each to print. I got 24 of them done, but with the raft adjustment working I might be able to go back and get 3 done at a time and have less down time between prints.

Wondered where the 'gather 'round the printer kids' thread had got off to, nice to find it again- lots of good information and advice here.

I'm Meer_Cat, amateur printer, with one Monoprice MP10- Mini in operation,an Ender-3 Pro I can't make work right but haven't given up on yet and two from Kickstarters that haven't come in yet: the IVI polar printer and the Creality SE-6.

A weakness of the MP10-Mini is that the bowden tube coupler between the tube and the extruder wears out at around 50 hours (the 'teeth' inside the connector wear out from flexion and fall off)
but I have a supply source now and am willing to put up with it.

I have gotten a few things printed since Sunday night, when I got back and found my package from GigDigit waiting for me with new bowden tube couplers. First up, the 'chipped' wall section- it shows damage/weathering on both the front and the back:


Next another 'porthole' wall section, this time with the 'hole' filled in (there's one more, with bars across the port, I'll print that soon):


And finally two shots (these pieces I printed some time ago) of the wall steps and fighting platforms to go around your city or compound or whatever:




All of the pieces here are as they came of the printer, no cleaning yet or anything. And none of them required supports. You can see on the porthole wall section especially that the toe of the base is curled up slightly; this might mean my bed temperature is too high, I may need to try lowering it to 60 or even 55 degrees C. We'll see. For now, I don't mind a little curl because I'm going to be gluing everything down, probably with two part epoxy and it won't be seen and won't matter. But for stand alone pieces with their own bases, may need to try lower temp.

More follows soonest!

I love those prints, can’t wait to get my pledge from Iain to start printing those.

The only thing that gets me is the connector spots. They make me want to hop on a forklift to pick them up and move them .

Also progress on my paint racks.

I started to reprint my Army Painter racks with a newer version that has anti sagging rails on it. Between that and the difference from my first prints to now they are 100% better. I’m also printing more racks for future Army Painter/ Vallejo bottles.......because one day I might pick up more

Yeah, the OpenLock system may be handy for terrain that is intended to be re-arranged from game to game, but I'm going to have to fabricate a curbing or something (maybe a piece of flat trim) to hide it. Once together, I ain't taken this project apart!

Tried the weirdest thing and it worked:

I was printing more courtyard tiles (I need a bunch more) and they were still at the 'very thin' stage and the corners were starting to lift up. Because I have to put masking tape down because adhesion to the build plate is too strong, I thought to try putting a dab of Aileen's Tacky Glue under the offending corners. I figured the tape would keep it from hardening to the build plate (which is in rough shape already, but it doesn't matter because- tape) and that the heat of the build plate would harden it quickly. Son of gun- it worked- print (and about an hour into it) saved). You can just see the dabs of glue at the corners:

 Meer_Cat wrote:
Yeah, the OpenLock system may be handy for terrain that is intended to be re-arranged from game to game, but I'm going to have to fabricate a curbing or something (maybe a piece of flat trim) to hide it. Once together, I ain't taken this project apart!

There are half clips you can get from various places that are intended to use magnets as a connector. You could use those to fill in the holes
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3612827

I like those clips, Endtransmission, they seem like they might be easier to work with than the friction clips (and I like magnetizing things). But I'm wanting a 1/4 tile that has a flat or beveled edge so that the diorama/terrain piece doesn't sit there abruptly a quarter inch higher than everything else. I'm learning to use Meshmixer, so I may be able to design something for myself.

Always possibilities!

I like the glue in the offending corners!! I think is better than my fix for the corners that start to pop loose in the first layers of printing...

I kept a couple of the really thin palette knives slid under the magnetic liner of my Ender 3 pro, so they are toasty warm. I just slid them on the edges, so it did not disrupt the build plate at all. So, when i saw a corner start to lift I would slide out the knife and press the corner down. Since the knife was hot, it would help hold it down until I got a few more layers on it to hold it fairly flat. When the one knife cooled, I would slide it back and pull out the other hot knife - rotating as needed until the corners were fixed.

Stupidly, it worked, but a lot of work to save an early print.

Here is a blanking plate solution.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4611929

If you search a bit more I'm sure you will find this done already. A lot of the terrain kickstarters i see have edging bits to merge the raised terrain into the table top.