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Hey, I'm going to strip a ton of IG soon, and most of them are spraypainted with GW Black Spray. I've used Simple Green before with success on metal models, but Ive heard that it isn't too effective on GW Black Spray.

Does anyone have any experience with this? If so, please say how it worked for you. Especially on plastic models.

SUPERCLEAN and A soft BruSH!! and your good to go

Ok, that doesn't really help. I was planning to use superclean, but the fact that it kills superglue is kinda putting me off.


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No one else?

Simple green has issues with spray primer sometimes. It also weakens superglue bonds on occasion.

Break fluid worked fine on the old white primer from 2004. Since the new black spray is just black paint I don't think there's a reason it couldn't work.

Todosi wrote:Simple green has issues with spray primer sometimes. It also weakens superglue bonds on occasion.

Then just Glue your Parts back together, once they've been Stripped, Washed in Soapy Water, and Dried. They should go back together as easy as ever.

However brake fluid is horrid toxic stuff that has to be disposed of carefully (can't be put down the sink).

Some can (Super Clean), it's biodegradable.

I just got done stripping a Carnifex that had been primed with GW Black, and didn't have too much issue with it. Granted, it had been sitting in the stuff for something like 3 months.

How long did it take to strip?

About 5 to 10 minutes with a toothbrush (hard bristle).

Sigh...this is going to be a long week (I'm stripping my whole Guard army. 50+ infantry, 9 HWT...). Fun times.

The smaller figures should go by a bit faster. You may not be able to get to a completely clean plastic, but the majority of the material should come off fairly quickly.

Great, thanks!

Well,simple green doesent work well on primer.

The fact is NOTHING should work well on primer, especially not on plastic. If I can soak a plastic mini in simple green for 10 minutes and the primer falls off I'm switching primer brands.

Primer on pewter comes off a little easier but once again, a decent primer shouldn't just scrub off easily leaving me a new looking mini. I want it to take effort to remove it.

An easily removed primer is garbage primer.

To be clear, the model soaked in Simple Green for 3 months (I've got marines in there that have been soaking for almost a year), with 10 minutes of scrubbing to get the paint/primer off. The primer did stain the plastic a darker color, but most of the material itself did come off. The crevices were more stubborn, but I didn't really work all that hard at cleaning them out.

After months it should loosen up. I'm just stating that like hours or days shouldn't remove primer. If it does the primer being used sucks, get new primer.

Not to mention most modelers locally I see use GW Chaos black which ISN'T primer, it's satin paint at $15/can that isn't nearly as good as even the Colorplace satin black for $.99/can.

Simple green works fine on primers, buy it in industrial size and strength containers from whatever your local industrial supply store is and its WAY cheaper (Grainger). Occasionally I get models off ebay that are particularly hard to strip, purple power is a bit stronger and can be bought in most automotive stores for cheap. It works especially good on thick primers stuck in the little cracks and crevices (Acetone works for this too, just apply small amounts with a Q-tip). Pinesol works, its just a bit pricier than I'd like to use (cut it with water if your using it on plastic). I've used vinegar before on metal models it just takes forever to work, on the plus side its so soft acting that it won't damage the model.

There are countless options, try to find something that is not caustic so you don't have to worry as much about ventilation and skin protection, then just experiment with what you have to find what works for you.

Btw, brush the model a brush after laying in the stuff for a while then ultrasound machine with it. It completely REMOVED white PRIMER.

Crushy wrote:Btw, brush the model a brush after laying in the stuff for a while then ultrasound machine with it. It completely REMOVED white PRIMER.

Actually this is something I've wanted to try for awhile, I read an article in some car restoration magazine and they were interviewing the head mechanic in Jay Lenno's personal car shop. He was talking about their ultrasound stripper and the thing sounds pretty sweet. I particularly remember him saying something about how the vibrations get down into carburetors and do a good job of freeing seized components you have no other access to.

At one point I had found plans for a homebuilt small scale ultrasonic machine, but since I recently reformatted my computer and I didn't bother keeping my bookmarks. If anyone knows what I'm talking about and has seen this a link would be appreciated.

I've used SuperGreen vs GW Black Primer and it does a fine job. I let my models soak for a bit longer against black primer though as it is a bit tougher resisting. About an 8 hour soak should do the trick. And have a nice firm toothbrush on hand to knock out the hard to reach areas. Good luck.

drukawski wrote:
At one point I had found plans for a homebuilt small scale ultrasonic machine, but since I recently reformatted my computer and I didn't bother keeping my bookmarks. If anyone knows what I'm talking about and has seen this a link would be appreciated.

Just get one for 20€ like I did and save yourself the trouble. I found mine totally by coincidence by going to my local discount supermarket the day after reading about it.