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Primers are designed to give a better adhesion to the model than 'from the pot' paints. Once you have primed your mini this will give a key for your other paints to adhere to.

Things that will affect adhesion are:

>mould release agent on the mini from casting
>over handling of the mini will leave oils from your skin
>poor priming, if you over shake your primer you will add to much aerosol to the paint giving the primer a more gloss quality in regards to adhesion.

If you do not water your paints do not get Kolinsky brushes. The reason you use sable is for the reservoir of paint it retains. If you are not used to this method then either get used to it or go for synthetic brushes instead as these are far better for out of the pot painting.
Also personally I find Da Vinci to be a better quality of brush but that is just personal preference.

As winter says as well these brushes are an investment, you have to take care great care with them. Be aware also that cleaning products for the brushes have to be carefully selected as the brush is a natural product it does not respond well to harsh cleaners

Kolinsky is the type of Sable used for the bristles. Da Vinci is one brand of brushmakers that produce Kolinsky sable brushes, they are in my opinion an exceptional quality, however I have not used Windsor Newtons so I cannot compare. And I'm not saying the newer painters shouldn't use them, just be aware that they are less forgiving of bad treatment. In fact check this out, its long but research is always good if you don't want to waste money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eACqcAQdw2U


Automatically Appended Next Post:
For cleaning your sprue use warm water with a little bit of dish soap into it. The soap needs to have a degreasing element to it or it will not break down the release agent. And as I say insure that the water is warm and not hot so as to not warp any of the components.

@Elmodiddly - Yeah, I don't wash sprues either but the OP was asking things that may affect adhesion, plus its better to have the knowledge and then discard as appropriate I find.

Your definitely right this is all preference, though some things are not optional like using the wrong products on bristles, this is where you need to be careful because else the cost of the hobby rises dramatically.

If you were wanting to black-line your models then Badab would be fine. However most painters agree that today this style gives the fists a bit of a cartoony look.

Personally I build my yellows from a white undercoat, washed with develan mud, base coated Iyaden DS - leaving the recesses showing, wash Sepia, final highlights.

The brown wash gives a darker shadow whilst the sepia lends a yellow hue thus helping to tie in the shadows and hightlights.

Bad Moon did exist, not sure if it still does. I can tell you however that Golden yellow and Bad moon were two very different colours as far as I can remember.

With metallics a small amount of water can be used if the paint is slightly older or drier than normal, however excess amounts of water will lead to a very washed out looking metallic paint.