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So even though my painting skills are limited, it seems I am growing more and more interested in learning the skills to so some easy custom modifications to my models. Considering I am a returning player from 3rd and as a result so is my Space Marine Army (and the 3000 pts in IG I have sitting around still in the boxes and blisters) I m finding these to be useful skills to have.

But I want to get the right tools. So what do you think of as "must have" tools.

I have a nice Xacto knife set as seen here, a needle file set and a toes nail clipper I use for plastic sprue cutting (the plier type) but what else would you consider essential. (Note: I have brushes, paints and the like already).

Some of the things I am looking at getting are a hobby vise (like a Panavise model 201) and/or a set of helping hands (i have peripheral neuropathy due to diabetes so this may be of assistance to me), a Dremel and a Pin Vice. What do you recommend?

Thanks,
Ted

I honestly can't think of a reason you would need a vice for conversion work, but since they're generally useful, I won't advise against it. I never use my helping hands, but some people find them useful, so give it a shot and see if you like it.

For the pin vice, I highly recommend getting one with swappable collets, capped with a swivel head. You'll be able to fit any sized drill bit you need and the swivel head makes drilling faster, easier, more controllable, and far more comfortable, compared to the double-ended jobs.

My advice is to pass on the Dremel. Get yourself a rotary tool, sure, but the quality of the mid- to low-end Dremel models is incredibly iffy and the price hasn't dropped to reflect that. You can pick up a Black & Decker RTX, plus a 3rd party flex shaft and a few extra bits for the price of the bare-bones Dremel variable speed unit (Walmart carries them, too, so it's easy to find in the US). The RTX can take damn near any bit or accessory (including Dremel's), has double the torque, has the same speed range (advertised as 3-speed, but that's just where the dial clicks in - it's fully adjustable), and it's a hell of a lot sturdier. Only downsides are the greater weight (solved by flex shaft or short work time), the noise at higher RPM (which you pretty much never need), and the tendency to run a little hot with extended use. All more than made up for by its advantages over a Dremel, in my experience.

Honestly, while I use my RTX plenty, I do most of my modeling work by hand. An X-acto knife, a few files, and a razor saw are usually more than sufficient for simple assembly and kit-bashes. Add in some Green Stuff and a few simple sculpting tools and you can do damn near anything.

Only other things I'd add to your list are drill bits for the pin vice (although that was probably intended, anyway) and a nice steel rule (much nicer than the metal-edged plastic rulers for use as a straightedge and equally good for measuring).

Tools:
Knife/scalpel w/ changable blades
set of needle files
modelling tools - GW one , 2 custom ones
pinvise/drill
plastic snips & clippers (basically old abused snips)
fine sand paper

Adhesives: poly cemement, superglue, 2-part epoxy

Materials - 0. 2& 0.5mm wire, greenstuff, pinning wire

Brushes - a whole 'nother kettle of fish!

What I've found is that you should get what you use. So don't get modelling tools and a pot of Vaseline if you're not greenstuffing, don't get poly cement if you stick metal etcetera!

Also don't get things you won't use that often, beg or borrow them from others!

Other than what you've got already...

flush cutters
jeweler's saw (a real one, not a crappy hobby saw... get from jeweler's supply co. for about the same price as hobby saw)
bench pin
set of colour shapers (needed for working with green stuff)
Foredom (rotary tool) + assortment of grinding and drill bits
parallel jawed pliers
round jawed pliers

A million other things but the above cover 90% of what I need to do.

personally, in my modeling supplies are the following.

GF9 pinvice with a small Craftsmen titanium drill bit set from Sears
multiple pin types mainly, 5mill brass rod,which i find is so much better then other mediums
GF9 sculpting tool set AMAZING set purchased ever, has 12+ tools every shape and size, Great for making your own mini from scratch.
electronic tool kit, all sorts of clippers,pliers,needle nose pliers etc most have no grooves so they don't damage models while gripping
superglue, greenstuff,brown stuff, cooarse salt for weathering and mirad of basing mediums

my modeling kit spans my desk at times i know i'm forgeting something. ah well

Tool box equipment is as follows:

xacto knife x2
emory boards
pin vise drill
green stuff
28mm gauge wire
eye dropper
toothpicks

thats about it!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
also:

plastic cutters
needle nose pliers (used less that a hobo uses a toothbrush though)

Color shapers
adjustable Circle cutter
Dremel + attachments-
tile- painting/ mixing
metal ruler
tooth picks
small ball bearings- add weight to bases
small washers- as above

Pliers
Clippers
Knife (Spare Blades)
Pin Vice (Spare and vary of size Bits)
Green Stuff
Super Glue
Paper Clips
Some girl tool that's useful (no idea for name..)

The usual.

Two sizes of hobby knife (x-acto style).
[pencil and thicker one) with blades to suit.

Razor saw and mitre box.
Clippers (for cutting steel wire, from a local electronics store).
needle files
Pin vices (3). Different sized bits in all three.
Roll of GS.
Tube of Squadron green
Emery nail boards
Tweezers (actually, dressing forceps from a first aid kit).
Helping hands with magnifier.
Dremel and bits.

Thanks all for your suggestions/

Well, I am set on getting a Dremel, and decided upon the 300 series as I have been hearing bad things about the rechargeables. my FLGS allows me to use his, as the players hang out ther and paints and model there as well. Since I have decided on it, I am getting the Dremel Hobby vVce as well, as it doubles as a pipe clamp as well as having an adapter to mount the Dremel so it can become a stationary polisher/sander/cutter. It also opens up to 7" and not just the standard 3".

I think I am going to get a set of flush cutters, as the toe nail clipper have probable outlived their usefulness.

A pin vice as well, but I have some high quality titanium b drill bits. Specific suggestions would be nce as I am not sure what oadie meant by "swappable collets, capped with a swivel head.".

Also what is "set of colour shapers". I have absolutely no experience with green stuff, and balk at the prospect to be honest. Maybe it is because my clay projects in grade school always turned out looking deformed.

Here's what I carry, asside from supplies( Glue,paints, brushes, green stuff, metal rods, and plastic card stuff)

Xacto Knife with blades
Gerber Multi Tool (knocks out most filing and clipping needs, anong with saws and other tools)
Blue Tac
Pin Vise, ectra bits
Power Drill and assorted bits
Airbrush
Sandpaper of all sorts
tooth brush
Spackle, and JB water Weld
Ruler and tape measure
Pens and pencils
wine corks
tweexers
nail clippers
GS tool
saftey pin, and the needles that come from dress shirts
rubber bands

I would personally just use citadel Clippers. I am a big fan of them.

Other things you need are the hobby Drill for pinning and drilling holes in barrels of guns. A good example is the black reach dreads in my gallery. If you take a look I drilled into the barrel and
colored the inside black so its not all flat and what-not. That way it looks more like an actual gun. Also pinning is also nice for large metal models like in warmachine.....its almost required really.

Maybe the Razor saw thing...some very thin wire for your pinning. Tons of Basing Materials, Like Different kinds of grass, Snow, Different kinds of sand like Tan and dark Grey.
The Citadel basing kit comes with some interesting basing materials like base tops and special pieces that make a HUGE difference when making models.

Also, Maybe go to warpath games or Micro Art Studio and get some of the Special Bases they have there. They have tons of Designs that are far cooler than any of the normal stuff.
Imagine Blood thirsters on top of the lava bases they have or some of the other cool ones!

Extra Exacto Blades, Flat Strips of Magnet. So you can cut out a circle in them and make magnetic bases underneath the normal plastic ones!
AirBrush

The Glue you want is the Krazy glue with the big red top. ITS THE BEST GLUE EVER! Elmers super, Super glue, Citidel, JB Weld do not even come close to how Krazy good this glue is on metal models.

Funny you should mention the glue!

I unpacked my stuff, that had been stored in the basement fir the last 9 years without me even touching it. So I packed my stuff down to the FLGS and decided to put together a few models that had fallen apart due to mold release over the years. I busted out my old bottle of Citadel glue, and it worked!

Apparently, a lot of people think there is a lot to be desired by the new thinner GW glue and most there are using the various Great Planes Pro CA Glues nowadays.

What about the Krazy Glue do you like? (I assume it is this one? http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=&q=Krazy+glue&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=15448473511736981173&ei=yNHYTKmeNYX6lwfm45m6CQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CEYQ8wIwAw# )


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Gitsplitta wrote:
jeweler's saw (a real one, not a crappy hobby saw... get from jeweler's supply co. for about the same price as hobby saw)
.

Do you mean like this one?

http://www.excelhobbyblades.com/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=450

Exacto knife
contour putty
eye dropper, empty pots
paints
airbrush (IWATA HP-SB)
more brushes than John Gnagy
rubbing alcohol
dremel tool
sticky tac

I agree with all other posters above, but I would like to add that a good cutting mat works very well. They're also very cheap (about 5 euros for an A4-sized one).

Super glue
plastic cement
Galeforce 9 modeling scalpel
assorted citadel paintbrushes
GW needle files
GW plastic clips (love these)
Big tube of GS mixes

My desk is a POS from IKEA, so I don't bother to put a mat down on it.

Not really for modelling, but I've found my airbrush and compressor an absolute godsend. Got a cheap compressor (was about £50) and a really cheap airbrush (£5) and some extra glass paint jars and spray lids (about £15) and have been loving it ever since.

Once you've worked out the right pressure and mix for your paint you can get great coverage in any colour (it was killing me trying to find spraypaints in the colours I wanted - now I can use any paint I want and spray it ). Once you consider how many spray cans and propellant tanks it would take to spray an entire army (I used one propellant tank putting the first layer on about 15 troops and 2 vehicles at £5-8 a go), the compressor is great value. Also takes a fraction of the time to paint. I can spray almost an entire army in one go (my compressor has a temperature shut out so it won't get damaged by over use) - what would have taken hours with a brush takes virtually no time at all. The paint dries a lot faster as well.

In terms of my modelling stuff, I've found the following things really handy:
Pin drill
Hacksaw
Pliars
Paperclips (of varying sizes and thicknesses)
Florists wire
Power drill + bits
Green stuff
Clay (I make temp moulds out of it as well as using it to help make permanent moulds)
Metal and silicone clay/paint shapers
Various tweezers (I have a set of different sorts - one you might like is a set of reverse tweezers - you have to apply force to open them, in their natural state they are "closed", which makes gripping things easier for long periods of time as you don't need to actively apply force).
Static grass (Gale Force 9)
Basing materials (Gale Force 9)

TedintheShed wrote:Funny you should mention the glue!

I unpacked my stuff, that had been stored in the basement fir the last 9 years without me even touching it. So I packed my stuff down to the FLGS and decided to put together a few models that had fallen apart due to mold release over the years. I busted out my old bottle of Citadel glue, and it worked!

Apparently, a lot of people think there is a lot to be desired by the new thinner GW glue and most there are using the various Great Planes Pro CA Glues nowadays.

What about the Krazy Glue do you like? (I assume it is this one? http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=&q=Krazy+glue&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=15448473511736981173&ei=yNHYTKmeNYX6lwfm45m6CQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CEYQ8wIwAw# )


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Gitsplitta wrote:
jeweler's saw (a real one, not a crappy hobby saw... get from jeweler's supply co. for about the same price as hobby saw)
.

Do you mean like this one?

http://www.excelhobbyblades.com/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=450

yeah that is the one! I found it a lot easier to work with metal models than the other stuff I used.

OH yeah! You will also need a Pallet full of Green Stuff!

Can never have too much green stuff.

Do you mean like this one?

http://www.excelhobbyblades.com/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=450

Sorry guys, been asleep at the switch...

Not quite... I go for these: http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea/SearchPage.aspx?page=GRID&free_text=saws (hope the link works... google "Rio Grande jewelry" & when you get to the site in the search box in the upper right type "saws"... it'll take you right to them.

Get the German frames... they are fantastic, easy to handle, very sturdy and under $20 (you don't need more than a 4" throat). I've had the same two saw frames for over 10 years now & they're as good as new. Will probably have/use them till I'm worm food. These are made for professional jewelers who will use them nearly every day of their careers... much higher standard of construction to live up to than anything with the word "hobby" attached to it. Not that a hobby blade won't work at all, but I think you'd find these a big step up in durability and quality.

My desk has my greenstuff and a single x-acto knife. That's all I've ever needed.

If you're going to do work with metal, you'll likely want more, but otherwise, most tools are just expensive conveniences.

Gitsplitta wrote:

Do you mean like this one?

http://www.excelhobbyblades.com/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=450

Sorry guys, been asleep at the switch...

Not quite... I go for these: http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea/SearchPage.aspx?page=GRID&free_text=saws (hope the link works... google "Rio Grande jewelry" & when you get to the site in the search box in the upper right type "saws"... it'll take you right to them.

Get the German frames... they are fantastic, easy to handle, very sturdy and under $20 (you don't need more than a 4" throat). I've had the same two saw frames for over 10 years now & they're as good as new. Will probably have/use them till I'm worm food. These are made for professional jewelers who will use them nearly every day of their careers... much higher standard of construction to live up to than anything with the word "hobby" attached to it. Not that a hobby blade won't work at all, but I think you'd find these a big step up in durability and quality.

Thanks Gitsspitta- so that will replace a standard hobby saw, huh? CAn you use it with the mitre box?

Whatever I can find in the house, I'm cheap.

Thanks Gitsspitta- so that will replace a standard hobby saw, huh? CAn you use it with the mitre box?

No. Not that kind of saw. Very delicate, thin blade with a considerable range of teeth sizes available. Use it with a $6.00 bench pin to hold up your work and you'll be able to do things you wouldn't dream of now. I just used mine to to completely dissect an old RT metal marine for conversion. Head, arm, legs, gun, modified the remaining arm. None of these cuts would have been possible with a thick bladed saw or miter box, and all the parts I cut off are still perfectly usable. You can make a pin-point 90 degree turn while you're in the middle of cutting for example... they're just amazing.

Blade size I'd recommend a #2 and #0/2. Use the #2 (large teeth, prevents it from getting fouled with plastic) for plastic and the 0/2 for metal. The blades come by the dozen because they will bind and break, but man what you can do with them! I bet if you looked up "jewler's saw" on U-tube you could find some good explanations on how to use them... and the bench pin as well (I swear my mine... have 3).

Gitsplitta wrote:

Thanks Gitsspitta- so that will replace a standard hobby saw, huh? CAn you use it with the mitre box?

No. Not that kind of saw. Very delicate, thin blade with a considerable range of teeth sizes available. Use it with a $6.00 bench pin to hold up your work and you'll be able to do things you wouldn't dream of now. I just used mine to to completely dissect an old RT metal marine for conversion. Head, arm, legs, gun, modified the remaining arm. None of these cuts would have been possible with a thick bladed saw or miter box, and all the parts I cut off are still perfectly usable. You can make a pin-point 90 degree turn while you're in the middle of cutting for example... they're just amazing.

Blade size I'd recommend a #2 and #0/2. Use the #2 (large teeth, prevents it from getting fouled with plastic) for plastic and the 0/2 for metal. The blades come by the dozen because they will bind and break, but man what you can do with them! I bet if you looked up "jewler's saw" on U-tube you could find some good explanations on how to use them... and the bench pin as well (I swear my mine... have 3).

Man, this is perfect. I have three 3rd edition assault bikes that have the metal heavy bolters on the pedestal mounts. The gun and mount are all one piece, and I want to cut off the bolter and replace it with a melta for tank busting. This sounds perfect for the job.

Can't thank you enough!

Glad I could be of service.

Just as an example... I turned this...



into this...



where all the missing pieces are perfectly usable and still in-tact save for a small sliver of metal removed by the cut. Many of these cuts were curved, angled or blocked by some other part of the model, thus impossible to do with a normal straight saw.

Now you might not like the conversion (the original model looks better in the pic than in real life... it has stumpy legs and is hunched over with the head way too far forward on the body), but there is no denying the utility of one of these saws. They take a little bit of practice, but once you get the hang of them they're a real wiz to use.

Yeah, that's good cutting. You can tell by the gun especially, even to my neophyte eyes.

The saw looks to be $16.75 and they sell a sampler pack that has 4 dozen of each of the 2/0, 1 and 2 for for $17.50. Probably all the blades I will ever need.

Gitsplitta wrote:Glad I could be of service.

Just as an example... I turned this...



into this...



where all the missing pieces are perfectly usable and still in-tact save for a small sliver of metal removed by the cut. Many of these cuts were curved, angled or blocked by some other part of the model, thus impossible to do with a normal straight saw.

Now you might not like the conversion (the original model looks better in the pic than in real life... it has stumpy legs and is hunched over with the head way too far forward on the body), but there is no denying the utility of one of these saws. They take a little bit of practice, but once you get the hang of them they're a real wiz to use.

Yep, those will do you. As I said it'll take a bit of practice... don't push hard on the saw, gentle pressure, steady movements. If you find yourself "working" at it just relax and slow down. I use my jeweler's saws for dozens of things around the house... they're just so handy and precise they've become one of my first tool options when a have a problem that needs cutting.

Ted,

Since I know you're interested I took a couple of shots for you...

Here is the proper way to use the saw with a bench pin. The pin helps you hold your work stationary & the slots or holes in the pin augment this by giving a place for the saw to move freely while still supporting whatever it is you're sawing.



And here's what you can do *with* said saw.

The blade can be released from the frame and threaded through whatever you'd like, then re-connected. (in this case the slotta-base). The two shapes you see were made with one continuous cut each... no backing out or starting over. The saw can essentially turn on a dime, making mid-stream cuts at any angle possible. These patterns were made with the thickest saw blade (#2), a smaller blade would be able to do much finer work.



Best,
Gits

I gotta give it to you all! You sure do know your stuff. I thought i had it all, but no - absolutely NO!

I guess there's alot of opinions about what's need and what not. But basically, not having the right tools can be a pain in the a**. You can about do the most with a hobby knife. But if you care about your fingers, or not having too much cut off, thats where the right tools comes into the picture.

I've settled with these:
- Knife/Scalpel
- Dremel Tool
- Plastic Snips & clippers
- Paper Clips
- Super Glue
- Sculpting Tools
- Metal Files
- Green Stuff
- Fiber-tip pen (i'm using these for adding colour to the parts i want cut off, after i've scetched the miniature up on paper.)
- Tooth Brush (Used for cleaning after i've used the Dremel to cut metal parts!)

Thats about what i've got. But reading through these threads, i've often come across tools that could make things easier, and that's what it's all about; Making things easier, and closer to whatever idea you had in mind.

Gitsplitta wrote:Ted,

Since I know you're interested I took a couple of shots for you...

Without quoting the imagery you took the time to do, thanks a ton Gits. I think I am placing this as a higher priority over a Dremel as my next conversion will be my 3rd edition attack bike from heavy bolters to meltas. i have 3, and they are on the metal platforms. The bolter and platform needs separated and I think this will do the trick!

Billinator wrote:I gotta give it to you all! You sure do know your stuff. I thought i had it all, but no - absolutely NO!

I guess there's alot of opinions about what's need and what not. But basically, not having the right tools can be a pain in the a**. You can about do the most with a hobby knife. But if you care about your fingers, or not having too much cut off, thats where the right tools comes into the picture.

I've settled with these:
- Knife/Scalpel
- Dremel Tool
- Plastic Snips & clippers
- Paper Clips
- Super Glue
- Sculpting Tools
- Metal Files
- Green Stuff
- Fiber-tip pen (i'm using these for adding colour to the parts i want cut off, after i've scetched the miniature up on paper.)
- Tooth Brush (Used for cleaning after i've used the Dremel to cut metal parts!)

Thats about what i've got. But reading through these threads, i've often come across tools that could make things easier, and that's what it's all about; Making things easier, and closer to whatever idea you had in mind.

Okay, I have to ask this: what do you folks use paper clips for?