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Project and thread are dead, received a nice IP warning from GW.

3am-5:30am hobby time during the week is a rare thing.



Unsprued the hulls for a couple of looted wagons, just friction fitted together at this point other than the treads..

your off to a nice start. Consider me subscribed.

Wut Dats My Wagon Git!

3d printing inspired orky glyph plates. These looted wagon plates "should" be 1-1.3cm sqr with the large "Big Mek D" plate being 1.2x5cm. I have a few more to design before I can place a minimum order.

Nice orks dem! The wagons and glyphs look very interesting projects Vandil, looking forward to seeing your progress (subscribed)

Bring Dat Scrap In Har!

Only had part of Saturday to work with since NFL division championships chewed up Sunday. That's alright though home team won the NFC Championship title, Super Bowl XLV!
My rare earth magnets finally showed up. I used most of my time Saturday to magnetize three Deff Dreads and the rear hatches of the Rhino hulls.


The Magnets were to big to fit in the rear doors. I zipped out about half the thickness of the door using a diamond burr on a dremel. In order for the hatch to close I mounted the magnets leaning very slightly inwards towards the hull on their sides. Once the putty sets I'll file the new drop hatch light housings square. They're as square as I can make them using the back of my finger nail.

The big item in my 3d printing order. Mek's been mumbling something about wanting More Dakka!! on his wagon. This should go a long way towards mounting a suitably over sized zen defying canon.

Open gun deck with mantle and shields. 26mm ring.

Top of the gun mantle is legged to the bottom of the deck plate and is hanging behind the turret deck. Looks a little odd but saves a start up fee for just producing the mantle top as a separate part and allows the gun to slide into place easily. Rhino's will have to wait until this order comes in from the printer. There were a bunch of other parts I designed for these wagons that were also on the same order.

Time to start working on the Hellhound\Chimera wagon.

Had a bit more time free this weekend.

Batch of 10 Burnas from AoBR Ork Boyz. Found they fit best of you leave a small sliver of the original arm on the shoulder cut at a downward angle and then cleaned up slightly with a knife.


A small mob of Flashgitz would be useful but I couldn't find a suitably flashy dakka for the project. I decided to convert 8 of the Kustom Kombi weapons from the Nobz box to single handed use. After test fitting one they're going to need another cut at the wrist, they're way to close to the boyz body.


Horde O Bitz looted wagon. Bunch of little conversions from the dropping tail gate to plow blade and my first chance to work with green stuff. I finally got the gun turret face completely smooth and then of course slopped super glue all over it putting the rivets on, gah! Probably should have taken another shot of the back half of the hellhound hull. It actually cleaned up nicely using a few glyph plates, green stuff, and part of a Trukk axle melded into what's left of the hellhound's transmission. Oh well plenty of time for that after cleaning it up the rest of the way.

Hey nice work Vandil, thanks for the tip about the aobr boyz bodies, I hope to so something similar with aobr nobz and boxset big choppas, must admit I think I am addicted to buying stuff from hoard 'o' bits , keep up the great work

In search of a cheaper way to field some Mega Armor Nobz. I just can't see paying $20+ a pop for them. Even flea bay regularly sells them for $15-17. If I want 10 that's $150 ouch!

First go at designing a full suit, Mrk1b "Busta" The Arms, Legs, Shoulder pads, Face Mask, Saw, Canon all print as separate pieces. Spare upper arms are for kit bashing the un armored lower ork arms from the plastic Nobz. I need to do another set of legs and another face mask. That way I should be able to mix up the model to get several different looks and use a bunch of GW plastic. Side of the saw probably needs some additional detail too. Total height is 34mm or just a smidge taller than a AoBR Nob.

Nice start


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That wagon is amazing

I magnetized 3 Deff Dreads using rare earth magnets but couldn't figure out a way to magnetize the weapons mounts. That left me with a pile of Deff Dread weapons and no weapons mounts.

My solution.

I ordered the weapons mounts in the White Strong and Flexible resin material. They were fairly small items tucked in under the close combat arms and the weapons themselves. They also needed to hold a magnet in a fairly thin housing. The surface texture of this material is close to 120grit sand paper and it's porous like sand stone but it's stronger feeling than the GW plastic and it's also one of the cheapest materials.

In the same order I had the first versions of some wagon parts. These were also ordered in the cheap WSF because I felt there was the possibility of measuring errors or bad print areas. I had after all used a highly scientific Finding Nemo plastic kids metric ruler with built in magnifying glass to preform the initial measurements. These aren't really finished parts but they gave me the chance to mock up the wagon a bit and test fit everything. Since I had them and really never intended to use them for anything I also tested several quick post production finishing techniques on them.


Couple of the WSF parts. The gun deck has 2 coats of lacquer over coat and a coat of chaos black half down. I needed to wash the part better casting material from an under hang has come off and is now a blob smack in the middle of the paint,



Test finishes on the WSF, each part was done slightly differently everything got a final mostly dry brush of adeptus grey so things were a little more visible.

Gun deck. Needle filed edges, 2 coats of lacquer, 2 of CB, dry sanded with 320, 6 coats CB wash.
Turret ring. This part was miss cast and honestly needed revision due to a 3d design error on my part anyway. I used it as a 2 part test bed for super glue coating. The right side was coated in super glue and then painted with one coat of CB. The left side was super glued and then dry sanded with 320 then painted with one coat of CB. The sanded super glue gave the greatest level of smoothness in the finish with the least amount of work but was only suitable for areas without sharp detail or low height detail. Details of .2mm or less were obscured using a very liquid Duro brand glue.
Priest front plate. Part had a casting line across the top face that required a razor blade. When applied user attempted to dig for China and took off a hills and valleys strip across the entire top face. Said the hell with it and didn't sand it or file it. Dipped it in a 50/50 mix of water/PVA, dried, repeated, painted with 4 coats of CB wash. Wouldn't recommend this gave poor results and cracked the finish later.
Top side plate. Dry sanded 320 where I could, 2 coats of spray primer, 4 coats of CB wash. Not bad but it still has a sort of concrete looking texture in low areas or areas that I didn't hit with the sand paper.
Bottom side plate. Dry sanded 320, 2 coats of lacquer, 2 of CB, Dry sanded 320, 1 Coat CB, 1 coat Lacquer, 1 coat CB. Probably the best finish besides the sanded super glue but it was a fairly flat part without much raised detail and it was sanded twice and had to wait for lacquer to dry 3 times.



More Dakka?
All self respecting Orks need a big arse dakka on der wagon. The gun deck allows for the mounting of a Stompa's Gatling canon on any 26mm ring. Measurements were spot on but I had some bad print areas right in the lower face of the gun deck where I had to many cut backs, rivets, and sharp angles. There was also a detail in the way on the upper mantle that didn't clear the canon completely. Took about 5 min to revise in 3d and another 2min to knife off on the WSF part.


Low sides
Both to clear the stompa canons ammo drum, consistency with the wagons low armor value, and to display grots. I left the sides of the gun deck fairly low. You can see the poor surface finish on the front plate from the no sanding and PVA dip treatment, not to mention the sloppy knife control up top. You can get the idea of what I'm going for anyway with it. I wanted another weapons mount that sort of gave the wagon an M3 or Priest feel to it. I pulled the angle up on the turret and visor tops in 3d, they didn't look right at true 45deg.



Alternate parts
The idea behind the two Rhino based looted wagons was to have a pair of wagons that could use magnetized parts to represent the various wagon configurations in the game. To do that everything had to stay removable including the supa canons. Here's some of the alternate parts for the wagons.





I also had a version of my mrk1 cyber arm sprue in this order but apparently when you mistake diameter for radius on the very first measurement you get a gretchin sized power klaw and cyber arm. Doh! I have revised a few parts and reordered in a different material with a smoother finish and higher detail level. The wagons will go back in the drawer for the time being. I suppose I could work on some of the orky bits but I have a half finished Flash Gitz mob to work on as well.

Awesome work! keep it up! can't wait to see what else comes thru!

A few more detail parts came in for the wagon, just waiting on the gun deck now. I haven't had much time for the modeling with all of the labor union protests going on here in Madison.

Life has been pretty busy the last few weeks. I'm getting a few hours in a week on the models it's been slow going but progress is being made! Sealed a few models with gloss coat to save my place but everything still needs touch up painting. I'm really good at starting something before I finish the last thing apparently.


The last time I'd worked on 40k vehicle models was sometime around 1992 when I did a first gen predator kit. With these ork wagons I decided to try some of the new stuff I'd picked up on Dakka and my local shop had one bottle of liquid mask left on the shelf. I had 3 wagons so I applied the mask in 3 different fashions to see which one worked out best.



This is coated in liquid mask that is NOT thick enough as I found out. It wouldn't peel for the most part but made an excellent scratch base for battle scuffs and nicks.



So here is the same looted wagon after my first pass of painting I guess it was a HellHound to start with but a more suitable bang bang was installed. You can see the areas that were dark blue on the previous image peeled but everything else I chipped with a gouge. The lens on the drivers viewing electronics really torqued me off. I had painted it in a red\black fade and went to gloss varnish it. A hair came off my varnish brush and by the time I'd picked the thing out I had the lens down to the bare plastic in one spot! grr So it's lovely solid black now stupid brush hair!


The weathering powders from Secret Weapons Miniatures just showed up in the mail so I'm looking forward to dirtying up that track+exhaust.


Shakey Hand dd ddd


Anyone not fluent in Ork it says "Big Mek D" thinking the next time I print this panel I will raise the detail another .2mm




On to the cheap chaos vindicator I scored off Amazon. Not even done with first pass painting on this one. I tried to add a good deal of plasticard and rivets. Anyone have a slick way to apply tinny amounts of super glue to rivets even the hobby tips seem to put out to much glue for 1 rivet?


This model was much easier to peel the liquid mask off of. I'd put it down in 2 layers instead of 1 thin one on this model.





The looted rhino or bit box I think it was 12 bucks +2.50 shipping for the sides+hull another 8 for the Big Barrel Gun, exhaust was in a bit pile. Other than that everything you cannot ID was 3d printed. This model peeled the easiest of the 3 I had globbed it on really thick in 1 coat in a a few specific spots. I wanted this one to look the least beat up.


Exhaust Black Powder I'm thinking should look nice on the stacks. I got a little over zealous with the gouge on the gun deck right side. Apparently gouging 3d resin results in Zimmerite style ribs.


More dirt says the tail gate after being photographed my transfers showing.


Top view shows one of the mounting plates I made to go with the gun deck and new hatch cover.



Did I mention I was really good at starting before I finish? Big Mek


Based the DeffKopta's even though they need final highlighting and some skid damage yet.


And my Zap gun too




Probably 6yrs ago I bought a bunch of hirst molds for making a PnP modular dungeon. I found two 1 gallon buckets in my storage unit of spare blocks when I was looking for my 40k stuff. Since I had long since thrown out my old terrain I tossed together some new quick terrain with them. One of the only hobby related things I can work on while at the same time watching a 2yr old.













Thats it for now!

My Plasma Generator Objective point arrived, pics on that later.

Mega Armor "Busta" miss printed 3 times. Scale is to small apparently. Fixed it but waiting for $$ to reprint them.

Next up: I hate the wartrakk model, sucked 10yrs ago still sucks today. They are pretty cheap to pick up though so I made a WartraKK upgrade. Just cut the tracks off an old wartrakk and glue to this (the fenders come about halfway up the hull. Gun on the hull also fits the screw weapon from KK set or mount an entire arm using the socket. Fits the small sized rhino hatches 18mm or has its own turret. Turret hatch is grot sized 12mm fixed in the up position but could probably be clipped and closed. I spaced the blocks on the rear of the vehicle\turret to accept KK exhaust cans.






Does it need a plain front hull plate as a sub for the canon+view port?

Plasma Generator missing the core+paint which I'm still working on. Sort of looks like a web-way portal or something along those lines without a core. The pillars and base ring are hollow there is about .4mm of material behind the circular ports on the pillars. Was planning on lighting it and the transparent core with red led.

A few more 3d designs, wish my wallet was larger these have to wait for some printing funds.


Hex bolt sprue just snip them apart with a razor knife. 4 different size bolts to choose from.


Quad gun deck with periscope built in. Base is optional fits large rhino\predator rings.


Basic Rhino ring turret. Fits the large rhino hatch ring + stompa big barrel gun minus the barrel the top turret hatch is 18mm for rhino hatches.


Action snake glyphs similar to the nobz one minus the feather and with a sharper head\neck.

Love the thread but i need to see your mega armour attempt can i have screen shot of 3d model or rendering I don't think I can stand to wait for the print

Subscribed Looking forward to more

Having examined your shapeways page at length I like the look of almost all your work I have a slight problem with the legs of your mega armour, they look a little robotic, have a look at this model, it's perfect for mega armour in my opinion. http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/359759.page


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Ohhh and the hex bolt sprue is an awesome idea, have you managed to put thread onto the bolt? would it come out on the 3d print from shapeways?

Wow. I can't believe this thread hasn't had more views. Personally, I don't usually look at Ork P+M's as it's typically similar things over and over again I find, however this is really original with some great work.

I won't really be able to provide any constructive input as P&M is not my strong point, nor am I an Orks player, however this is some great work you're producing here; everything's Orkified whilst remaining fairly realistic. My favourite so far has got to the Chimera.

Well it's just one little thread in a huge body of excellent work and I only update when I've got something interesting to report.

I agree on the legs of the Mrk1 mega armor being off they need to be thicker with a more obvious hydrolic setup. One of the only items in my shop you can't order. I'll get back to it eventually Thinking a more Cybork leg would be nice too. I did get a successful 1/3 scale print of the armor as a test copy. There was some area's that I wanted to redesign and I thought I could squeeze a cheaper print out of it too.

So what have I been up to?

Grot Tank from Wartrakk mock up. I detracked a pair of wartrakks on my bandsaw, I'll recast the fenders + track after applying GS. There is a 5-10% angle off 90° on the fender that needs to be extended to the hull with GS and then recast.


The Grot Tank kit broken down with alternate front plate. I order this model in a kit even though it's available printed as 2 pieces hull+turret. I wanted to test these individual pieces for casting in resin. (decided to cast it as 2 pieces after I assembled it! )


Fits normal hatch covers, hatch rings, and micro turrets.


Material comparison WD -> FUD



Final photos of the wagons. (Full 360° pics in my gallery) these are the first 3d printed items I consider DONE!




Next project 1:60th Doric Hexastyle Temple for Fantasy
Front Half
Foundation:
Stylobate 440mm x 520mm (378 smooth stone hirst floor blocks to cover 100%! Full temple is 1:2.3 ratio same ratio as Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion & Thisseon)
Stereobates A 490mm x 545mm, B 540mm x 570mm (Stereobate steps are 1x 25mm hirst floor block wide around the exterior with a cement backer board under the Stylobate.)
Column layout pattern Hexastyle
Column Height 175mm
Column width @base 30mm
Column plinth 35mm sqr
Column Flutes 24 (Parthenon exterior columns have 24 flutes)
Column Count 6 x 7 for 18 columns (corners counted only once)
Column Ratio 5.8 (Classic antiquity between 5.7 and 5.9. Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion is 5.83)
Space between columns 50mm (should allow a column formation of 20mm square bases to pass between columns. That's close to 2? per 2 columns but I decided an extra few mm for movement was worth breaking the golden ratio.
Entableture
Architrave 445mm x 525mm


Column Master


Column Master Mold in Vytaflex 40



I've also based all of my boys, the nobz, the other flying units, Big Mek(which I finished painting!), and Warboss. A platoon of Rebel Grot has been converted from Cadians including casting a mold for 1st edition Yarrick's hat, GS'd, based, and primed. The 10man unit of Flash Gitz, squigs, combi weapons, cybork conversions, + big arse boss pole has been chopped, GS'd, and primed (WHFB black ork banner-ork). I'm not sure WTF I did with my 60mm bases for the Killa Kans so I had to make a mold and cast 6 new bases for them too. I made a pile of clear tau stealth suit legs + main bodies that can be used to paint stealth suits mid shift (PM if you want to trade, not for sale!) Finally designed or converted a bunch more 3d templates including, micro chains, more power+chain swords, a full WAR GODS resin command counter set, and some battle fleet esc ships.


Not game related but I also did these grip panel coins in Stainless Steal with an antique bronze finish for my CCW group. They fit into indents in grip panels for 1911 .45 automatic pistols. (ambi safety!) The grip panel first step masters are done, the intermediate mold was cast, and the intermediate masters just need a final mold cast that includes the drill outs for the coins I put into the intermediate step masters. (The first step masters are AA grade ivory! no drill no drill!!)

long time ago
looking forward to that mega armour I hate paying so much for just one model despite the awesomeness

Always my problem, they're uber pricey for 1 model.

I need to get a master that I'm 100% happy with that is thin walled and cheap to print. A solid full sized print is going to run almost the same $$ as a metal version from GW. Easily the most problematic model I've worked on its been extremely slow going and the turn around time from SW is not the advertised 10 working days for FUD closer to double it. So that's not helping anything either.

Once I mold the master and recast it, the resin copies will be around $5. Or people can print a master and cast multiple copies on their own for personal use.

This is the 1/3 scale test print that's a piece of lint stuck to the lower torso. (tiny!) There were a couple of mirrored planes in the helmet+leg where the printer decided meh 2 planes = 0 right? The reduced scale test prints are time consuming but they're also cash saving which is important too since I'm just a hobbyist at heart.

Wow nice man
lookin pretty neat, for 5 bucks a piece I'll buy XD I'll give em my own twist if it is even nececerry
It doesn't have twinlinked tho right? you'll manage I guess

you can always use the test for mega grotsXD

so to get it straight you make it so that a nob kinda fits in there or is it completly closed up (having hard time telling from the pictures)

keep it up man tnx for the swift responce

DamienOfTheWRAAAGH wrote:Wow nice man
lookin pretty neat, for 5 bucks a piece I'll buy XD I'll give em my own twist if it is even nececerry
It doesn't have twinlinked tho right? you'll manage I guess

you can always use the test for mega grotsXD

so to get it straight you make it so that a nob kinda fits in there or is it completly closed up (having hard time telling from the pictures)

keep it up man tnx for the swift responce

Not yet but the weapon is actually the easiest to model. I should make the right arm modular so it can swap weapons or people can do different combi weapon combo's

It's more of a mix n match set while the print is hollow you can't fit anything inside the armor with the exception of an ork head with the removable visor piece.

Use an ork arm, an ork head, only a forearm and so on with the power armor or use it with just an ork boy head. Should let the armor be used piece meal or 1 set to convert multiple boyz to mega armor nobs. I've got a few weeks coming up where I'll be working from home hopefully I can sneak this back in for a few tweaks and get it printed full size.

sounds great
yea switcheble weapons sounds good but also everybody's got some weapon bitz so they can just convert it.
I definatly want to see this finished And if posible I'll buy some from ya it's double win less expence and more uniqueness:d

makes you wonder dosen't it, If a home hobby guy like yourself can knock out a good looking alternative mega armour on a home pc what can the professionals do. Well if they work for GW they can do nothing but sub par work and shoddy resin releases.... Sorry nerd rage over the gawd awefull mega armour model again, I think I'm better now. Model looks very nice all told. I think the legs could do with work but I think I said that before.

How possible is it to create a mega armour suit that's modular and fits over existing GW ork nobs models? I haven't actualy got a boxed set of the ork nobs yet but if they're built like the ork boys (seperate legs/torso's/arms/head) I wonder how hard it would be to create parts to fit over the existing silouets of each piece?