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i am trying to use the gw superglue for metal models(imperial guard commissar) and it's simply not holding, i made a makeshift fixture and im going to check on it tommaro, but i was wondering if i need new superglue(mines quite old) or any other crafty techniques, cuase im ready to jumpkick someone.

Have you cleaned the models first?

It's not uncommon for GW metals to have some kind of mould release on the parts (generally not needed on metal figure casting).

Try cross-hatching the faces of the parts to be joined.
Learn the pinning technique.

Use gap filling superglue or gel type and get yourself a set of 'helping hands' (weighted base with two alligator clip arms) to help hold it in place.

Another good technique for supergluing two part together is pinning:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/239928.page

Or 'GS Welding'
(no tutorial for this one as it's really basic)
Basically mix up some GS, then tear off a small amount (just enough to cover the surface you are gluing.
Apply superglue to both surfaces, then sandwich the GS in between the two parts your gluing.
Squeeze the parts together until the GS comes out of the seam between the two parts.
Trim off the excess and et voila!


For uber-good joins, combine the two techniques.

Personally i dont touch metal or Resin mini's without ... tah dah!

http://www.gf9.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=265

my Saviour! ^_^

I find that a strong glue is often enough though I like to pin as well. I find gel based glues to be the best although supermarket brand ones work just as well. GW super glue... well lets just say the only thing I've found it good for is glazing greenstuff to give it extra strength.

GW Superglue is one of their few hobby products I use, in my experiance it has a stronger bond then most other glues.

My best guess as to what your problem is, is either there is some oil or mould release on the model, your useing to much less is more as far as super glue is conserned, or you've mixed up GW plastic glue with super glue.

Slushosaur wrote:Personally i dont touch metal or Resin mini's without ... tah dah!

http://www.gf9.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=265

my Saviour! ^_^

Zip Kicker is a similar product that pretty much every hobby store carries, and it's a godsend. Seriously, I don't know how anybody can use superglue without a bottle of something like this.

I like the Zap-O-Gap Ca++, but even store brand super glue will give you a good hold on 90% of 28mm sized models by doing a good cross hatched scoring on both matching faces with a razor knife. If that won't hold the next step is pinning.

I use JB Weld (the stuff with the 4 minute cure time, not the 12 hour stuff).

dkellyj wrote:I use JB Weld (the stuff with the 4 minute cure time, not the 12 hour stuff).

This. If JB weld won't hold it together, then nothing will.

Putting together metal models isn't too bad if you know a few tricks.

First (and the most important) is to throughly scrub the model clean to remove the release agent used to make the model come off of the mold easier. I usually get a toothbrush and some dawn dish detergent and scrub away. You will even see a black like residue mix in with the soap bubbles as you scrub them. Throughly rinse them off and let them dry. I am a speed freak, so I usually borrow my wife's hairdryer to speed up the drying.

Next, try to scratch up the parts that will connect with a hobby knife. I usually do a cross hatch technique and cut little grooves into the parts that will go together. These parts do not show up when the model is put together so it doesn't matter and will make the bond stronger. Two flat pieces are hard to keep together, but if they have a texture to them the bonding is significantly better.

Next use some zip kicker with some zap a gap superglue like ArmorOfContempt mentioned. I should warn you, that the bond will not be as strong as without using zip kicker, but if you clean the model and make some texture where it joins then you should be ok.

Using these techniques, I have had to opportunity to watch my hive tyrant fall about 3 feet and only break the bond of 1 arm.

EDIT: Pretty much what chromedog said.

I find the gs weld works the best..i usually use my dremel and divot both pieces give a spot gs and fit it..the glue it...really happy with the gap filling and the hold...but I do use lock-tite super glue gel..I found the control from the container exceptional...haven't had a failure yet, trust me with a 6 year old running around there has been some dicey drops ...

thanks for all the tips, i found a good one that accelerates the glue by use of baking soda, who woulda guessed??

Pin the model!

That's what I did with my commisar.