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Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd




buffalo, ny

Ok, I'm a bit new granted and working some 60+ hours a week doesn't help either, but it seems that I have been trimming the $#@% out of these mold lines and it's taking FOREVVVVVVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Even with a hobby knife with consistently fresh blades and a small set of really nice jewelry files, I'm still taking like 30 minutes on a backpack!

I understand the tradeoff- Good looking models = more time but it's like, man! I want my army assembled already so perhaps I can play a game sometime in 2011! Any tips from you dakka pro's out there?

Are there commissions for this kind of work- clean and assembled?

Remember, to laugh at an ork is kind of like laughing at a busload of handicapped kids who are murdering the bus driver...  
   
Made in es
Impassive Inquisitorial Interrogator






30 mins on a backpack?
i think your over cleaning, my friend.

post a pic as to what your are talking about, because if you are taking ~30mins on a backpack, it might be worth swapping them.

"I found Rome made of bricks ; I leave it made of Marble." 
   
Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd




buffalo, ny

yea sorry no pic available at the moment.

It was a plastic mek backpack from a set of lootas/burnas. The mold lines weren't all that bad, but running a blade around any "ribbed" type stuff, bolts etc or ork fists even just seems like to get every last piece of mold is a monumental task.

But lets say a typical infantry model, two arms, head, body and legs

What kind of time frame should I be looking for? Perhaps even that would help me adjust to what I should be concerned about and what I shouldn't be.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/02/21 16:41:19


Remember, to laugh at an ork is kind of like laughing at a busload of handicapped kids who are murdering the bus driver...  
   
Made in gb
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





cornwall

A fully built marine shouldnt take more than a few mins to do with a sharp knife but other figs mite take a bit longer if theres less flat sections.
   
Made in gb
Pete Haines




Nottingham

Don't bother with the knife. Just use the files. Use the large flat file for any flat surfaces, and a round file for anything fiddly. Stuff like the ribbed cables and such, use some thin polystyrene cement (I use this: http://www.humbrol.com/accessories/glues-and-adhesives/ae2500-28ml-liquid-poly-bottle-28ml--adhesivesglues/ , marvellous Stuff), which partially melts the plastic, and will smooth out the mould lines dead easy. Also, don't worry about being utterly perfect, if you're making 150 Orks, no one is going to notice the slugga on Ork #126 has a line on the underside.
   
Made in id
Widowmaker



Perth, WA, australia

well you are making a horde army , it takes longer for a horde army to get to the same per model standard as an Elite army

So far
500 point of
750 point of
500 point


 
   
Made in pt
Sinewy Scourge





Porto

I have the same problem as you do. Can't start painting a miniature without getting rid of everything in excess.

I'm looking at about 20 minutes for a whole miniature. I typically use sandpaper (1000 to 2000), and afterwards I give all my minis a warm bath with soap and clean them with a toothbrush.

I finished undercoating my AOBR boyz not so long ago after having the box since Christmas 2010 :cry:

But I don't regret it. I really like each miniature I have, every single one. So I'm not going to rush it, only to look at it later and regret it.

anonymous @ best Warhammer Miniature wrote:i vote the choas dwarf lord as they are the greatest dwarfs n should get there own codex


 
   
Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd




buffalo, ny

GCMandrake wrote:Don't bother with the knife. Just use the files. Use the large flat file for any flat surfaces, and a round file for anything fiddly. Stuff like the ribbed cables and such, use some thin polystyrene cement (I use this: http://www.humbrol.com/accessories/glues-and-adhesives/ae2500-28ml-liquid-poly-bottle-28ml--adhesivesglues/ , marvellous Stuff), which partially melts the plastic, and will smooth out the mould lines dead easy. Also, don't worry about being utterly perfect, if you're making 150 Orks, no one is going to notice the slugga on Ork #126 has a line on the underside.



thanks for the advice, I'll keep my knife at bay more and pick up some of that ploystyrene cement!


Destrado wrote:I have the same problem as you do. Can't start painting a miniature without getting rid of everything in excess.

I'm looking at about 20 minutes for a whole miniature. I typically use sandpaper (1000 to 2000), and afterwards I give all my minis a warm bath with soap and clean them with a toothbrush.

I finished undercoating my AOBR boyz not so long ago after having the box since Christmas 2010 :cry:


But I don't regret it. I really like each miniature I have, every single one. So I'm not going to rush it, only to look at it later and regret it.


lol I know, they're all like my little babies!



ork# 126 has a line? Damn him! I told him to go on a diet...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/02/21 17:11:03


Remember, to laugh at an ork is kind of like laughing at a busload of handicapped kids who are murdering the bus driver...  
   
Made in pt
Sinewy Scourge





Porto

Another thing you can do for legs (marines, etc) is to cut up a thin line of sandpaper (really thin one, like 1600) with some scissors so it's a long line about half a centimeter wide.

This is tricky to explain, but you have to hold the model with two fingers, while also holding the sandpaper with the same hand. You then have to push the sandpaper with both hands, back and forth, like a hacking saw. This is great for cleaning round surfaces, like the inside of legs.

anonymous @ best Warhammer Miniature wrote:i vote the choas dwarf lord as they are the greatest dwarfs n should get there own codex


 
   
Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd




buffalo, ny

Destrado wrote:Another thing you can do for legs (marines, etc) is to cut up a thin line of sandpaper (really thin one, like 1600) with some scissors so it's a long line about half a centimeter wide.

This is tricky to explain, but you have to hold the model with two fingers, while also holding the sandpaper with the same hand. You then have to push the sandpaper with both hands, back and forth, like a hacking saw. This is great for cleaning round surfaces, like the inside of legs.


kool, So polystyrene glue and some 1600 sandpaper... off to the stores and thanks man!

Remember, to laugh at an ork is kind of like laughing at a busload of handicapped kids who are murdering the bus driver...  
   
Made in pt
Sinewy Scourge





Porto

Good luck, don't forget to show us your work later

anonymous @ best Warhammer Miniature wrote:i vote the choas dwarf lord as they are the greatest dwarfs n should get there own codex


 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






Purging on ctf_2fort

The more you clean, the faster you get at doing them. Some models are brilliant when it comes to mold lines. Take Empire State Troops for example: if I put my mind to it, I can get a body/torso section done in a couple of minutes max. Space Marines are, unfortunately, probably some of the worst cases. All of those smooth, flat armour panels with so many mold lines! ...and let's not talk about Chainswords! It can also seem like a hard slog - there's so much grey plastic! Newer production models definately have less mold lines. It's something that manufacturers are taking into greater consideration - such as Mantic. If they ever invent a way to make miniatures that have no mold lines then I don't know what might happen. It'd be too good to be true! But we can only hope and dream. Until then, however...

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






Blandford, MA

I bought a mold line scraper tool from MicroMark, it helps out a bunch. Then only light sanding or filing is needed in most cases.

For The Greater Good….. says who?
7000 pts + Going through a re-do & growing
3500 pts + growing
Cygnar - 100 pts + growing
IG slowly gathering  
   
Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd




buffalo, ny

Destrado wrote:Another thing you can do for legs (marines, etc) is to cut up a thin line of sandpaper (really thin one, like 1600) with some scissors so it's a long line about half a centimeter wide.


This is tricky to explain, but you have to hold the model with two fingers, while also holding the sandpaper with the same hand. You then have to push the sandpaper with both hands, back and forth, like a hacking saw. This is great for cleaning round surfaces, like the inside of legs.


I came across some sand paper but they were all in the hundreds not thousands, but they were really fine stuff, I wonder if they drop off a number or something...


Cosmic wrote:The more you clean, the faster you get at doing them. Some models are brilliant when it comes to mold lines. Take Empire State Troops for example: if I put my mind to it, I can get a body/torso section done in a couple of minutes max. Space Marines are, unfortunately, probably some of the worst cases. All of those smooth, flat armour panels with so many mold lines! ...and let's not talk about Chainswords! It can also seem like a hard slog - there's so much grey plastic! Newer production models definately have less mold lines. It's something that manufacturers are taking into greater consideration - such as Mantic. If they ever invent a way to make miniatures that have no mold lines then I don't know what might happen. It'd be too good to be true! But we can only hope and dream. Until then, however...



Yea, chainswods are rough for orks too, think I found a good size file for them.

Rhich wrote:I bought a mold line scraper tool from MicroMark, it helps out a bunch. Then only light sanding or filing is needed in most cases.


going to have to check that out...

Remember, to laugh at an ork is kind of like laughing at a busload of handicapped kids who are murdering the bus driver...  
   
Made in us
Trustworthy Shas'vre





Mt. Gretna, PA

I just use an X-acto knife. I hold the knife perpendicular to the mold line and scrape it off, it takes relatively no time. With this I can shave a marine fairly thoroughly in about 3 minutes.

 Goliath wrote:
 Gentleman_Jellyfish wrote:
What kind of drugs do you have to be on to see Hitler in your teapot?
Whichever they are, I'm not on the Reich ones, clearly.
 
   
 
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