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Greetings everyone. I have never bought or sold painted models, thus I was wondering how they should be shipped so that the paint job doesn't get damaged. Any advice or tricks of the trade I should be aware of?

Bubble wrap them individually.

Wrap each model twice over in bubblewrap, then tape the edges of the bubblewrap shut. Pack them safely in an appropriately sized box and make sure they're in tight with packing material to keep them from bouncing around. I've been using spare pluck foam from Sabol cases for packing material, and it seems to be working well.

1) The first step is to seal them properly. A good "regular" seal is one coat of gloss followed by a coat of matte. That will protect the model from general rubbing. Even bubble wrap rubs.

2) Once your model is sealed. wrap it in tissue/toilet paper. This barrier will keep the bubble wrap from rubbing right against the paint.

3) You may have guessed it. Bubble wrap. Wrap each mini in bubble wrap.

4) Line the bottom of your box (painted minis should only EVER be sent in a box) with bubble wrap or (even better) a layer of foam peanuts, soft foam (like Sabol pull-outs) or, in a pinch, styrofoam.

4) Pack the models close together in layers. Leave space between the models & the side of the box. Fill this space with peanuts, etc. to absorb impact. Cover each layer with peanuts, etc. before adding another layer.

5) Top the whole thing off like you started; a layer of packing material of some sort.

Note that, on #2 above, large or oddly posed minis may need special attention. If, for example, you're sending a fully assembled Dark Eldar Raider, you are giong to want to use fomething (like sabol pull-outs) to protect vital areas or big gaps before wrapping it in tissue.


This is a really good way to do it. There are better, but they're REALLY expensive.
Some of the above steps can be ignored/altered to suit your needs but, if you want a "best practices" method, the above is it.

Eric


5)

As long as you make it so that they don't move around, that's the key.

Iandroid wrote:As long as you make it so that they don't move around, that's the key.

Almost.
You also have to be sure that they're protected from the crushing blows they'll receive from having 75 pound boxes launched at them at 50+ miles an hour, or dropped on top of them from 3 feet up.

Eric

Brother SRM wrote:Wrap each model twice over in bubblewrap, then tape the edges of the bubblewrap shut. Pack them safely in an appropriately sized box and make sure they're in tight with packing material to keep them from bouncing around. I've been using spare pluck foam from Sabol cases for packing material, and it seems to be working well.

This. I take each pluck square, cut it in half, then tape it around the model, then tape over the head and under the base to secure it. This, combined with packing the dead space with newspaper, should be fine.

Newspaper is poor packing material. When you put weight on it, it flattens out. It does the same thing during transit. If you pack with newspaper & there's a breakage problem, the USPS will deny any claims you make if it was insured.

Eric

I make a honeycombe out of thick card and place it in the box too, helps further should the mail service plump heavier boxes on top of it and stops the box crushing. If its an entire army i'll make it so each section fits one model. Easy to do, just take strips of card, cut a slit vertically halfway up the card at the desired lengths then slide the strips of card together.

Oh, and bubble wrap.....

Thank you all for the advice. I had not thought of filling the space in between the models and then wrapping them with bubble wrap. Protecting the shipping box from impacts is also something that had not occurred to me, but, the way some shipments have arrived in the past, makes perfect sense.

Thank you everyone!

I've had painted minis posted to me in plastic tubs, from large biscuit boxes (the kind you get with big variety packs), to ice cream tubs and even small butter pots - they all have lids so are quite secure from being crushed. The senders generally bubble wrap individually or uses kitchen towel, sometimes they use packing chips / peanuts, but never had a chipped mini, although have had a cracked tub!!

I always try to source the sturdiest cardboard box I can find, the boxes that mugs come in are great as they are divided up inside (normally into 6 sections) and give the box extra strength like with the honeycomb suggestion. Use as much packing as you can fit in to protect them, but you can't beat a good coating or three of varnish to a finshed mini, protects it during posting and during playing...

All the packing material, form boxes to chips to bubblewrap can be sourced quite cheaply on eBay as well - look under office supplies or search for postal boxes

Ive sold my stuff by taking 2 or 3 and "sushi wrapping" them with bases facing opposite ends. If packed tight enough

Plastic figures= no worries if you varnish them.

Metal: FOR THE LOVE OF DAKKA DO NOT JUST THROW THEM IN A BOX WITH PEANUT STYROMFOAM! I didnt spend a lot but years back I bought a painted space marine set of 5 for color and highlighting reference that were black templar. The paint wasnt chipped: white flecks of styrofoam( i hope) residue was on them and wouldnt come off. Only cost $20 so I was peeved, but he was new to selling so I was like whatever and still used them as reference for my black templar before I sold them. (after repainting to better quality)

The minis I've sent so far have been sealed (after Photos) I've got a 15ft cubed sack of anti static void fill. They look like teeny bubbles!

Minis are wrapped in bubble wrap, Packed into a shipping box ( Bought a load of compartmentalized ones) ! give a layer of void fill, the bubble wrapped mini and another layer of void fill. I plonk a small sample of dull cote in case it rubs in transit.

I do have a mini vac packer (sometimes I cater for family events) which I might use in future instead of void fill. Sucking it down over the bubble wrapped mini, rooting the sucker in place, but need to test it in case the force is excessive.