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I just got my Insta Mold in the mail today. I have made molds in the past from RTV (room temp Vulcanizing) rubber, as well as rubber molds that have to be vulcanized in the oven. And I have equipment to cast in white metal as well as resins. This is a game changer for us modelers.

This is one of the best hobby materials I have seen in ages. With in 30 mins of opening the box I have cast a high quality replica of an OOP part.

I got my Insta Mold in the mail also.

I've never done anything but a simple glob of GS on a stick pressed against a detail.

I think I'll jump in both feet and try to mold something complicated like an Assault Cannon arm.

TalonZahn wrote:I've never done anything ... I think I'll ... try to mold something complicated like an Assault Cannon arm.

Which is a recipe for failure and frustration.

The #1 benefit of this stuff is that it's reusable, so there's no loss (other than a little time) in starting out with something simple.

Take it step by step. Try and mould just the ammo box first. If that works, then great, you move on. If not, then you figure out why without the complication of the fact that you tried to run before you could walk.

Not trying to sound like a dick here, just common sense.

Bah, failure is just a step in the process. I can do it as many times as needed.

Do it once, see where the mistakes are, fix and move on.

Where's your sense of adventure man.

Damn the torpedoes!!

Listen, maybe you'll get lucky, but don't say I didn't warn you...

This stuff looks great, getting excited with the possiblilties, never cast anything before but always wanted to give it a go. The thought of mass producing parts you have made yourself pleases me for some reason haha. Would be good if someone put a tutorial up on the site, best product, differences between puttys etc for the less experienced like me cheers

Gadge

For those who mix milliput with their Greenstuff, what would be the ideal ratio? Im looking forward to cast detailed pieces

Usually it's 1:1:1:1.

Hey I bought some instant mold and some ProCreate STICK Putty recently.

The putty works great but it smells like so bad that I temporarily forgot the forum rules and decided that I needed to try to get around the swear filter with a silly-looking jumble of things that aren't even all letters in order to convey my disgust! No really it smells so bad that I can't even use it without a painting mask over my face.

The instant mold is awesome - I'm going to clone sections of a Rhino to build a destroyed Rhino terrain piece.

Seriously - don't try to circumvent the swear filter. If you want to describe something, use actual words. - The Mod Team

Dude, don't screw around with the swear filters.

I've been mixing miliput to green stuff on a 1:1 ratio.

Just got mine in the mail... amazing. Did a demo with a scalding hot cup of work at water and a bit that just came in (yay for mailing to work to hide from the wife) and the results were astounding.

Now obviously it's a tad hard to take a good pic of something translucent, but here was a test and ignore that didn't cut a correct 50/50 since all I had on me was scissors lol.



Images removed. DO NOT post images of casting GW parts

Now since I'm at work I don't have any kneadinite or milliput on me, but simply eyeballing this 5 sec demo it has more detail then anything I have ever used.

Oh on the mixture I tend to use just a hair more milliput in my mix. I've found that even 70/30 GS/MP keeps the greenstuff's attribute of not crack/breaking.

Has anyone tried Alumilte resin with this product? and for that matter has anyone used both alumilites "regular" resin and "amazing casting" I have used the regular resin for years now and like it, just wanting a real world comparison between the two.

Alumilite is exothermic when curing but i cures so quickly that i dont know if it would matter when casting.

kronk wrote:Dude, don't screw around with the swear filters.

Yea is it so hard to type "digestive byproduct".

A little late, but here's my thoughts on the product.
I think it's great for base making but as for weapons (Seriously, stop it. Or there will be suspensions) it's kinda meh. Maybe it's just me not doing it right but this is as close as I could get.

grey one is GF9 greystuff
white one is milliput silver grey - haven't cut the flash yet

Milliput seems to stick to this thing, but once dried should be quite easy to remove.

I also tried filler cement (permafilla) and had a horrible experience. Had to run to the sink to wash the mold. Horrible.

You might want to delete the picture of the GW weapon. GW will be angry.

Ah, that's why all the previous meltagun pics are gone. Fine, fine. Don't want them getting too angry and raise their prices again.

Thanks for the heads up.

lord_blackfang wrote:I got some Polymorph first and it's okay, but not as good as Instant Mold seems to be. Now I'm waiting for a pack of Oyumaru, which really seems to be the same stuff.

For EU buyers:
http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/shop-online/oyumaru-modelling-compound.htm

I purchased a pack of clear Oyumaru from here - even just looking through the stuff at the relief of what I have moulded from you can see it captures a lot of detail.

Currently using DAS clay to make some copies of various things. Just waiting for it to dry out, but it seems to have filled out pretty much everywhere except a couple of really deep pockets that I did not press enough material into (using a simple single sided press mould).

Also - though it doesn't look like you get a lot in a box (I opened up the packed and was really disappointed with how much I got) it actually smooshes out to quite a large area, so its looks are deceiving.

Will report back when the DAS has dried as to how good it is to use with Oyumaru. Will perhaps try a double sided mould if the DAS gets good details.

DAS clay? That **** shrinks as it dries.

lord_blackfang wrote:DAS clay? That **** shrinks as it dries.

Which is why I'm not using it on stuff where size matters

I'm using it for taking moulds of various bases.

Edit: And shrinkage is about 2-10% for DAS (depending on type), which is not a huge amount.

SilverMK2 wrote:And shrinkage is about 2-10% for DAS (depending on type), which is not a huge amount.

That's what she said.

*goes to the corner to hide*

My new videos are uploading to youtube now, should explain the basics on how creating good molds using InstantMold.
I rant a bit as usual and run out of battery but you should get some good ideas after watching it.

http://www.youtube.com/user/MadCowCrazy?feature=mhum

Hi Madcow
(and I never thought I would say that in so friendly a tone)

The first two parts are most informative thanks, and very helpful.

Will watch part 3 later.
Many thanks for taking the time to do the videos and upload them.

Will be putting some of that into practice sometime hopefully soon, assuming I can nab some Lego.

Would liquid resin be okay to use with this?

I've been wanting to start a fortress project for a while, was thinking of press molding plasticard/green stuff wall details (flat backed) in bulk. It would be easier (I think) just to pour resin into the mold than to squeeze green stuff/ kneadite/ whatever else we have in.

It works but there are fumes and mixing and sticky pourings and airbubbles...

...but probably a good idea. I made three moulds for some architectural detailing but the stuff starts to go off quickly and sometimes only poured two out of the three.

I finally broke out the InstaMold and cast my very first 2 part mold tonight.

I decided to try this stuff from Lowe's called SteelStik that's used for sealing pipes/leaks and such. It's very pliable and easy to work with. Has a work time of 3-5 minutes and starts to harden shortly after. Takes about an hour to set solid.

I followed all the instructions from MadCowCrazy and his videos. What I produced, I will gladly put on my minis. The level of detail is insane.

My one glaring mistake was too much of the putty. The item is slightly thicker than the original and had a good amount of flash. It won't show on the mini though as the extra thickness is to the back of the item.

For those Canadians who are planning on buying this, or Oyumaru, be very very careful. Just got hit by a $60 COD charge by UPS because the shipper didn't bother to use the shipping money to actually... you know... properly ship my package.

Shouldn't disclose the store right now as I'm just beginning the dispute, but I wanted those who would be affected to be aware.

is it actually a shipping charge or the customs and brockerage fee that UPS is (in)famous for charging? i ONCE shipped a bunch of books to canada using UPS because it was cheaper to ship but the buyer then got stuck with a 20% or so "brokerage" fee.

Where can you buy instant mold from ? every link I seem to find links to a coolminiornot page that no longer exists.

Edit: Also for people who have used this (or similar products) to great extent, would you recommend using it for cloning Killa Kan arms ? (suppling 1 of each arm in the kit should be a damn crime!)

Nope we would not in any way shape or form recommend cloning copying or looking at GW stuff without a licence.

ever
.


'

)

Sigh.. of course of course.

What about something as simularily complicated and detailed as a killakan arm??