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This has been discussed briefly in the finecast thread, but I wanted to start a larger discussion.

There are some members of the community who state that finecast does not need to be primed. Many veterans have dismissed such statements out of hand. However, GW states that the new resin is semi porous. Further, the surface of the models is not perfectly smooth, and have some bite which helps the paint stick. So, if the paint sticks I do not really see any reason to prime them.

If someone can point to a link or segment of text where GW, or any other resin mini manufacturer for that matter, has stated that Finecast / resin models do not need to be primed, then I will continue to assume that they do, in common with every other mini produced.

spaceelf wrote:This has been discussed briefly in the finecast thread, but I wanted to start a larger discussion.

There are some members of the community who state that finecast does not need to be primed. Many veterans have dismissed such statements out of hand. However, GW states that the new resin is semi porous. Further, the surface of the models is not perfectly smooth, and have some bite which helps the paint stick. So, if the paint sticks I do not really see any reason to prime them.

Don't make that assumption. We're talking mini's, miniatures as a whole need to be primed to give the paint something to hold to. Painting over straight resin ends up with a result that the paint comes off again, and the chipping factor, aside from the mispainted vile appearence is the only result. As with resin in general- wash it, then prime it.( AFTER it is completly dry.)

With the Finecost, the models are unrefined, anyway, the type of plastic is on par with those meeples, or the FF pieces that come in thier games, giving me the impression that they will chip when you bend the pointy bits, or handle them.

As for Semi-porus, oh yes... there porous alright. The real question should be about Greenstuff sticking to that type of resin and not chipping off after it has hardened. pices I've seen have varied in quality from Not Bad, to WTF is that supposed to be? It all depends on the casted mini itself, because honestly- Quality Control is just not there.


Prime your models, those $20.00 character figures will thank you for a solid paint job.

I'd prime em anyway. as long as it is a good primer and kept at a distance it will be so thin it won't hide any detail and i don't think you could do a good wash on a model that wasn't primed unless you painted every nook and crany for it to stick

Hello,
Also keep in mind that if the miniture is semi pourus your paintjob wil be as well untill sealed, so if you do alot of washes they might get under your basecoats.

Regards,
Carl

Well there are people who think metal models don't need to be primed. They don't know what they are talking about either.

They need primed. The only question is what type of primer.

Acrylic based model paint is not adequate to bond sufficently to bare metal, plastic, resin, or about any other material you can think of ..

@ filbert: I do not know of any company that says do not prime the miniatures. However, finecast is a different material, and GW is not going to say not to prime them when their primer costs $15.

@ muwhe: I agree that metal models need to be primed. However, the finecast material seems to take the paint well without primer. It is not like forgeworld resin or like plastic.

@ G00fySmiley: although priming anyway may sound like a good idea, many people ruin miniatures when they prime them. Cold, heat, or humidity are all bad for priming. Case in point, look at the priming job on the elf in the finecast thread. It is gritty.

Does anyone have any evidence that the paint chips or flakes off if you don't prime a finecast model? (It can do this off of metal even when it is primed)

I assume the statement is aimed at the younger gamer.
It may be fine not to prime. They also say there is no need to wash which is excellent news for some game gamers.

It's ultimately up to you, but I would still do both as the effort to do so is not so great.

You raise an interesting point Spaceelf
This could be the first time in a very long while that GW have said, "Hey kids, you don't need our cool but excessively priced Citadel product."

I think I need a lie down!

spaceelf wrote:
@ G00fySmiley: although priming anyway may sound like a good idea, many people ruin miniatures when they prime them. Cold, heat, or humidity are all bad for priming. Case in point, look at the priming job on the elf in the finecast thread. It is gritty.

not really a fault of the primer, more bad application. I am curious if you could paint finecast straight, but if i could i don't know if i would still. I'm used to priming, i dont use the expensive chaos black, i use an automotive primer that costs $3 a can and works great on metal or plastic. i always prime black and since it is a great primer it sticks and gives a good base black for nooks and cranies. if it will take paint without priming i can see that being great for some people I'm just still concerned if they would take washes or just paint. wahing really adds repth and texture to models imo and would want to make sure it'd work

Could always try a sample by painting the sprue as I suggested to no avail elsewhere.

The British players are too busy celebrating the fact they no longer have to wash.

Hello,
One of the more common arguements (a horrible one), I hear against priming is that "you lose detail" my normal off the cuff answer is "don't be bad at it" and I get out the simple green and explain it's use. I have found with especially minutely detailed models it is just easier to airbrush the primer on. That said there is not alot of GW models that need that done just off the sprue and cleaning. SO yes you should prime them anyways, trust me you will thank me for it.


Regards,
Carl