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Made in us
Manhunter






Little Rock AR

Has anyone used it? The guy at the hobby store practically gushed over it. Gave me its pros and no cons. Said it was better then "that testors crap the guys over there [my FLGS] told you to get" So one thing that sorta concerns me is it says California recognizes it as a carcinogen. If no one has used it I'm gonna test it. SO if it eats models I'll let you know lol.

Proud to be Obliviously Blue since 2011!

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I've used it for a while now. California may recognise it as a carcinogen, however theoretically so is bacon... As long as you don't drink the stuff you should be fine

The main pro - it bonds in no time flat! The main con - it bonds in no time flat

The way it is supposed to be used is that you position the model parts and then run a small amount along the join. Capillary action draws the stuff into the joint and it bonds really quickly. In some cases this is a really useful trait. In others you need a bit of wiggle room to help settle the parts into place so its less useful. For the second tpe of use he only way I've founda roud it is to really load he joint with fluid before smacking the parts together. You get a couple of seconds extra time to position, however you often end up forcing melted plastic out of the side of the joint that needs to be cleaned up.

Actually, another great benefit is that it dries so quickly that it doesn't affect the surface finish that badly. With other plastic cements if you drip it a bit away from the joint you get really bad surface damage. This stuff really only affects the very surface of the plastic.

However don't do what I did and knock it over into a pile of waiting parts. In bulk it is powerful enough to dissolve quite a bit.

So summary - If you need stuff bonded quickly and can dry fit it all before-hand then its ace. If you need sometime to line the joint up after applying then a slower acting glue would be better.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Zealand

I've used similar stuff. What Flinty says is right - it's fantastic for certain types of join, but a pain for others. Definitely something to add to your toolbox, but in addition to normal plastic cement, not replacing it.

It also bonds some types of plastic that normal plastic cement doesn't, which can be very useful.
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

I use it. It's great for the purpose it is intended for.

Liquid cement has been a part of the advanced modeller's toolbox for decades.

Non-liquid cement is still useful for various applications.

I don't know what Testor's is like.

I'm writing a load of fiction. My latest story starts here... This is the index of all the stories...

We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
Made in us
Manhunter






Little Rock AR

Thanks.

Proud to be Obliviously Blue since 2011!

 
   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka





6 foot underwater

Used similar for years, excellent addition to the tool kit.
As Flinty says, make sure it's not somewhere you can knock spill it over a pile of plastic, also make sure you put the lid back on after use. I left the cap off once, noticed a few days later when it had evaporated and realised why I'd been feeling rough for those days - solvent fumes is bad

cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

 
   
 
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