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I don't know if turps is what you use.

Some people use Mr Muscle oven cleaner, you can also use brake fluid.

I find that you can afford to be harsh on metal and use Nitromors paint stripper. It'll shift the paint like nothing but wear gloves.

I used lacquer thinner on my metal miniatures. Just recently (last week) stripped 2 lictors and a broodlord this way. It took off the mass majority of the paint in minutes, but for a few details where the paint, glue, and GS was really uncooperative, I let 'em soak overnight.

Next day: Toothbrush, rinse, soap 'n water wash, dry, prime

Gloves if you've sensitive skin.

I use break fluid. Works fine for me.

IF you really want to strip metal models, maybe play a slow song, dim the lights, get some wine and have an emotional conversation with them.

I use turpentine on metal models, works faster than the weaker stuff you have to use on plastic. Don't forget the bases though, turns them to sludge.

To strip paint off models, I find that the all purpose cleaner "Simple Green" does just the job. You will not have to thin the liquid and it will not mess up metal, Resin, or Plastic models.

First find a container that you will reuse for stripping models only.

Place the model inside the container and place liquid in conainter as well.

let model sit in liquid over night.

remove model from liquid and scrub paint off with soft brissel tooth brush

now you are read to paint

I hope this helps!

Generic Pine Sol works for me. Mostly because that's what I had under the sink.

On metals; Brake fluid.

Doesn't matter if it's enamels, primer, or acrylics.

It ALL comes off.

Most people with cars have a bottle of it in the shed.

chromedog wrote:On metals; Brake fluid.

Doesn't matter if it's enamels, primer, or acrylics.

It ALL comes off.

Most people with cars have a bottle of it in the shed.

I found brake fluid to be slow to work, and it won't take off clear coat. A clearcoated rhino sat in brake fluid for a week and it had no effect. For metal, like someone else said, use lacquer thinner. It literally takes minutes.

Heh, the stuff I have will strip Duco from cars - it has trouble with polyurethane varnishes (you need something like Xylene for it).

Regular spray enamel varnish comes off like any other paint though (I give them a 5 minute soak, then scrub them with an old toothbrush, rinse and repeat until clean).

@chromedog: what do you use? My lack of patience has become curious

I use detol, works brilliantly and in the end your mini smells nice...

For metal I use NitroMors.

For metal I've successfully used acetone nail polish remover. For plastic I've unsuccessfully used non-acetone nail polish remover (oh look, Space Marine Soup!)

well, I've used brake fluid and simple green
both work, however, I would recommend simple green more than the breaker fluid because it smells better

leave the metal minis to soak for a day or two and then you can take the paint off with an old toothbrush or something similar

fenrir1997 wrote:@chromedog: what do you use? My lack of patience has become curious

Brake fluid, rubber gloves, protective eyewear and a toothbrush.

10 minute soak.
Remove and scrub.
Repeat.

I only use it on secondhand painted metals.

My own figures never get repainted. Their first and only paintjob stays.

Mean green cleaner safer than oven cleaner lets over night use tooth brush with hot soapy water

I've used Mean Green before. A bit of a tough scent, but nothing too bad.

Like I mentioned before, Clorox Green Works is my choice for plastics, and Lacquer Thinner for metals.

@Chromdog, I'll be trying the brake fluid for metals. Dot 3 or Dot 4, does it matter? I agree, I don't strip my own, and if I do, only if I really goofed up badly.

I tried Simple Green on my metal Archon and the paint was easily removed in 12-18 hours.

Dettol

On metal minis. Anything short of 300 degrees F.

Alchahol should do the trick .

A former girlfriend had left nail polish remover with some of my cleaning supplies. It worked real well but it turned out to be scented and the 2 models I stripped now smell like baking cookies even after priming them.

Dettol, the original one, soak overnight.

All the suggestions are good, simple green is a slightly less toxic and harsh alternative though -

fenrir1997 wrote:
@Chromedog, I'll be trying the brake fluid for metals. Dot 3 or Dot 4, does it matter? I agree, I don't strip my own, and if I do, only if I really goofed up badly.

Last lot was Dot 3 Brake AND transmission fluid. Blue liquid that doesn't smell too horrible (compared to dettol or turps where the stench takes an age to leave).

Remove stenche by overnight bath in Isopropanol and let dry. Voila.

Isoprop also removes paint from plastic minis. metals I recomend turps.

Did that with the pieces soaked in turps.

Had them sitting in it for a couple of days.

Let them dry for a couple of days.

Posted them to a mate - the stench was STILL there 3 days later when he opened the parcel.

Howard A Treesong wrote:Some people use Mr Muscle oven cleaner, you can also use brake fluid.

I find that you can afford to be harsh on metal and use Nitromors paint stripper. It'll shift the paint like nothing but wear gloves.

same here

Wal-marts brand of laquer thinner is what I have used for 20+ years on metals. Tried pinsol on plastic, didn't like it and you have to be careful or it will melt the plastic so with them I make sure I do the paint job I want or get stuck with it.