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Ok, I've built a couple more serious structures and now see where everybody's coming from. I've broken a good number of connectors, albeit usually when I lost patience and tried to jiggle them loose quickly rather than poking them out from the back, and some tiles are much easier to fit the connectors into than others. (But just try poking connectors out from the back when you have connectors on both sides, blocking all the holes.) For the open "X" tiles you make towers from, I'm finding needle nose pliers mandatory for getting the clips to click.

But overall I'm finding the connectors usable, and I don't really see the advantage of just gluing buildings together right away. I'm pretty sure that whatever I build in the next few weeks, I'll end up realizing I could do it much better a different way in a month or two, or decide that I want to do use the same tiles in an entirely new design. I may break a number of connectors taking my buildings apart, but if that's the price I pay for being able to revise my designs, I'll pay it. And if I change my mind, I can still glue my buildings later if I decide I really want to.

Warts and all, I'm happy with the building set. It takes effort, time, and some sailor-mouthed cursing, falling much more on the side of miniature modeling than lego toy building, but the results are great.

Cleaning my plague first gen and my god, it's such a beautiful model. If there was a "Best model of the year", I think I'd put this up there with the FW HH character series, I really love it.

I got around to painting up a pair of my Plague Troops. Thought I'd share.



Please ignore any mold lines that remain. I know I will.



They fit quite well with my existing Plague Zombies. I can't wait to have the whole bunch painted up and hanging out together. And then there'll be the wave 2 zombies...

Nice applications of blood! not too much, not too little, but juuuust right!

What'd you use for that skin tone?

My pink skin is coming out way more neon than I'd like at the moment.

These are the primary colours I'll be looking at choosing from for my plague to make something close to the official plague scheme:



Any excuse to use Fluorescent Magenta from Vallejo, I love that colour, so vibrant. Minitaire Lust Pink is really nice too, similar but superior to Squid Pink from Vallejo I think, it's deeper. Heavy Warmgrey is a great slightly warm/pink bone base to work from.

 highlord tamburlaine wrote:
What'd you use for that skin tone?

My pink skin is coming out way more neon than I'd like at the moment.

It's done using just washes. It's the same technique I used on my zombies. Use a white base (in this case it's just primer) with Druuchi Violet/purple wash applied first. Once dry, apply Reikland Fleshshade. And that's it. Some of the zombies in there were done using the same technique only with Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade. I'll be using a similar technique for my Grogans, too. The blood on them, that was done using GW's new Blood For the Blood God paint. That stuff is actually really good for doing blood. Even better than using Tamiya's clear red.

 Yonan wrote:
Any excuse to use Fluorescent Magenta from Vallejo, I love that colour, so vibrant. from.

I just bought a bottle of this for another project, and it's arrived really, really thick. Like, I've tried shaking and stirring it for 15 minutes, and when I shake it there's still no sound of fluid movement. Is this normal for fluo colours, or does it just need a bit of thinning?

I've had a really thick vallejo colour, I forget which one, it might have been magenta. Some thinning - to the extent I had to throw some of the paint from the bottle out to make room for water - fixed it up nicely.

@barzam love your work! Nice job!

We cannot wait to get the plaque painted up.

also For all Deadzone fans who pm'd us here. You can now get your specific custom board kit:

Details here
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/554355176/games-and-gears-battle-boards/posts/696970#comments

back to here. We are looking at the campaign mechanics. Seems pretty solid. We will try it out in the weeks to come. some of the crew played their second game yesterday. Solid game.

Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

Interesting, thanks!

Dreadabll acrylic counters on the mantic blog

http://manticblog.com/2013/12/17/unboxing-deadzone-acrylic-counters/

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

Hmm... does that work with the cube-based movement and relations for diagonal/orthagonal adjacency? Admittedly I've only read the rules and have not played it at all yet.

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

How do you work cover?

"Cover" in the game was already heavily abstracted with only a model LITERALLY in 100% open space having no cover. As such, it is really easy/logical to apply the old, "If you can trace any line to this model that crosses an object, it is in cover. If any conceivable line from model "a" to model "b" is free, they're not in cover.

Likewise, we apply the again "common sense", anything you're touching personally is ignored for this purpose.

As far as "scatter" we still use the D8 with 1 being "directly up table", 5 being "directly down table" etc...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Honestly, its been one of the easiest "home brew" projects I have ever seen, and it in fact, so easily converted to raw table-top game, that i'd suggest it was partially developed as such BEFORE the grid came into being.

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

Just curious what drew you guys to deadzone then? Part of the reason I enjoy the rules is due to the quick and non fiddely movement and measuring(I played orks in 40k and hated moving 25 boyz 6 inchs). Seems like if you want to measure there is plenty of other games in that vein. Just honestly curious what inspired this change, not trolling!

Thanks,
Lukez

Lukez wrote:

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

Just curious what drew you guys to deadzone then? Part of the reason I enjoy the rules is due to the quick and non fiddely movement and measuring(I played orks in 40k and hated moving 25 boyz 6 inchs). Seems like if you want to measure there is plenty of other games in that vein. Just honestly curious what inspired this change, not trolling!

Thanks,
Lukez

You would be surprised how few GOOD sci-fi skirmish games exist at this scale. We play and enjoy games like Malifaux, and appreciate highly characterful games using small numbers of models but very tactical thinking/positioning. In fact, one of the best games to scratch that itch is similarly a home-brewed project, "Warhammer 40k: Kill Team".

I love the Deadzone universe (which is a given considering I had the opportunity to work on it), and love the aesthetics. We love campaign games/systems, we love the Necromunda style upgrades. Hell, Deadzone is incredible and it just happens that the one thing we DON'T like was the "stream-lined" movement/measurement systems. As everything else is just wonderful... we fixed it. :-p

Oh, and I am a big fan of Warpath, and given that Warpath 2.0 is about to become a VERY big deal in our hobby, part of why I mass bought Deadzone was to ultimately funnel into that game.

But, for context I am also one of those people who thinks Dust: Tactics is an absolute joke of a game, whereas Dust: Warfare is a huge personal favorite... so I/we here have a precedent for ditching the "casual" incarnation of games.

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:

Lukez wrote:

NewTruthNeomaxim wrote:
Incidentally, while everyone is focusing on inventories and assembly (good ideas all around, mind you), we've actually been playing with the game/rules, a bit.

Just thought i'd throw this out there for folks who aren't in love with playing on a grid, per se.... We've actually had amazing success converting the rules very linearly to a proper table-top game.

If all you do is the logical changes (IE, reading 1 movement as 3", ditto for shooting/melee ranges, etc...) it frees you from the grid, while retaining Jake's design intentions, etc, and giving the game a little more granularity. If you essentially make every measurement x3 (the length of what was a grid) then you can extrapolate the rules for where to place tokens, etc...

Thus far we've enjoyed it more this way, so I thought i'd share. :-)

Just curious what drew you guys to deadzone then? Part of the reason I enjoy the rules is due to the quick and non fiddely movement and measuring(I played orks in 40k and hated moving 25 boyz 6 inchs). Seems like if you want to measure there is plenty of other games in that vein. Just honestly curious what inspired this change, not trolling!

Thanks,
Lukez

You would be surprised how few GOOD sci-fi skirmish games exist at this scale. We play and enjoy games like Malifaux, and appreciate highly characterful games using small numbers of models but very tactical thinking/positioning. In fact, one of the best games to scratch that itch is similarly a home-brewed project, "Warhammer 40k: Kill Team".

I love the Deadzone universe (which is a given considering I had the opportunity to work on it), and love the aesthetics. We love campaign games/systems, we love the Necromunda style upgrades. Hell, Deadzone is incredible and it just happens that the one thing we DON'T like was the "stream-lined" movement/measurement systems. As everything else is just wonderful... we fixed it. :-p

Oh, and I am a big fan of Warpath, and given that Warpath 2.0 is about to become a VERY big deal in our hobby, part of why I mass bought Deadzone was to ultimately funnel into that game.

But, for context I am also one of those people who thinks Dust: Tactics is an absolute joke of a game, whereas Dust: Warfare is a huge personal favorite... so I/we here have a precedent for ditching the "casual" incarnation of games.

Fair enough, thanks for sharing!

So, out of curiousity, why would anyone take mercenaries? I took a look at the stat cards and the negatives (no XP and rep negative) seem pretty bad for what you get. Am I missing how awesome they are?

I'm not sure what models aside from the Chovar have the Psychic ability.

 solkan wrote:
I'm not sure what models aside from the Chovar have the Psychic ability.

That's true. I haven't dug into the Psychic rules though since I didn't buy a Chovar. I'll have to take a look.

I think it's just the Chovar.

Btw, does anyone know where I can get either a light gray spraycan or a large amount of light gray paint to paint these tiles with?

Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot all have large spray cans of gray paint.

 pretre wrote:
So, out of curiousity, why would anyone take mercenaries? I took a look at the stat cards and the negatives (no XP and rep negative) seem pretty bad for what you get. Am I missing how awesome they are?

Yes a few of them seem over-priced (Blaine for instance, unless I'm missing something?) But, a couple of them look quite kick-ass: The Helfather - armour 3, and an AP4 weapon with 'irresistible' will mean goodnight sweetheart for most things it hits (and if they do survive, they get set on fire!). Nastanza as well, the agility with sniper ability, can imagine her (him?! ) jumping around and hiding under her (or his) stealth cloak, and that being pretty annoying to face. Think that range 14 is the longest in the game so far as well, which would be fun for people who've started playing with 2 mats together. Boomer looks like a fun character to play also for 10 pts.

Hey doods! Great to see everyone enjoying deadzone and there is quite a buzz too, Here is my first finished reb. Had 4 games now and watched 2, I must say I'm loving it!

@BmB that reb looks great.

I think the mercs have more to offer in isolated one off games, but some are pretty solid even with the rep hit. Consider them leveled veterans who won't have to sit out to level up anymore. Basically, each merc costs 3 rep per battle paid after the fact. So if you ever considered bringing a few ammos or a frag grenade, you've already rationalized the cost of any merc.

Blaine is like a faster 1st gen without command, dunno if he's cheap but nor would I call him overcosted readily either. Nastanza and Helfather are both standouts, and boomer and chovar bring a lot of utility. Boomer has unlimited grenades for 10 points, and those usually cost 3 or more points apiece.

Freya is 9 points but if you can escort her in you get 2 VP easilyso she may be worth it to you as well.

Anyone else waiting on their shipment still? =\


Automatically Appended Next Post:
DZ kickstarter update 126
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1744629938/deadzone-the-sci-fi-miniatures-board-game/posts/698500
Its a video so I just link page.

Mostly goes over whats missing that they know about, everything has been shipped so you should have it soon if you don't already (=/, still no shipping update for fexex here), missing sorak they knew about for awhile and forgot to bring it up the the rush to get done etc, supposedly you can get a 2 pack sorak yndij for a couple of bucks on the next survey to make up for not getting as many the first time round. They ran out of accessory sprues early on so most of us only get the ones that came with strike but not any extras ordered. Glad I ordered 16 =/

So that's nice of them to update and what not

BMB, what did you use on the bases if you don't mind me asking?

I might try freya or nastanza in a game. Mainly becuase i just like the models and freya will help ease the pain waiting for the forge father team. Think i got lucky with my order, only the 4 dice missing. @Baritowned the base was simply just grit and sand glued to the base then painted grey

Did you remove the integrated base first, or just detail, flock and paint over it?