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Hello everyone,

I am painting my first metal model ever. But I am having some problems I primed the model using the Vallejo grey primer (spray can) but some parts didn't cover completely. Now I am having problems with paint chipping off on the edges but also in large areas. Is there anyway to solve this? I really don't want to start everything from scratch again.
So I have been searching online and seems that sealing the model with varnish might solver the problem. Which varnish should I use? Also is there any grey primer that can be applied with a brush that way I can paint the bits that weren't covered with the spray.

When you prime a model, unless your useing a colored primer thats going to be your basecoat you don't really need full coverage, a light to medium dusting is all you really need and will allow more detail to show through.

As far as varnish goes I recommend first varnishing the model with gloss varnish then giving it a light coat of a matte varnish. This is because chemically gloss varnish dries harder. As far as brands go... For spray I use Krylon Gloss Varnish and Krylon Matte Spray. For brush on I use Liquitex gloss varnish and matte varnish.

Vellejo and Reaper make grey primers in a dropper bottle.

Well, the way in which it's chipping - you say large flakes - makes me think it's likely a problem with your primer. Either you're using an unacceptable primer, or the model itself was not clean when you primed it.

A.) Unacceptable Primer: not all black spray paint is the same. I got some black spray paint from a art store that absolutely would flake off anything, if you so much as gently rubbed a thumbnail over it. To test this, spray a test model with a big flat area (or some bases). Wait 24 hours. Then, stick some blue low-tack painter tape to it gently and then carefully peel it off. If it peels off all the primer no matter how gently you do so, it's an unacceptable primer and you should use something else. I use cheap-o Valspar brand paint from Lowe's, 99 cents a can, and it works great.

B.) unclean model: models come off of injection molds. To keep the molds from sticking, they are sometimes sprayed with a mold release agent, which can sometimes leave a greasy residue on the model. This is generally only a problem with Resin models, but I've seen oily stuff on an occasional GWS plastic model too. To avoid this, you should wash the sprues before assembly with soapy water and use a old toothbrush on the crevices. Again, you shouldn't generally need this on plastic models, but it can happen.

To fix your current situation, we need some clarification. You say you don't want to start over again from scratch - does this mean that the model itself is complete? Have you sealed it at all with any kind of varnish?

One of the best varnishes you can use is Testor's Dullcote, from a spray can. Make sure it's a warm sunny day and hold the can at least 8" away from the model when painting; if you do this on a humid muggy day, the paint can "frost" and make your metal look like dull grey.

Since this is a metal model, and possibly a heavy one? Another, "above and beyond" thing you can do is seal it by using a product from the hardware store called "minwax fast drying polyurethane", which is what you'd use to seal a wood floor. You're going to need some mineral spirits or turpentine to clean your brushes when using this. Finish the model, and paint it all with this stuff, then clean your brushes. Let it dry 24 hours at a minimum. It dries very shiny, so you will then want to give it a final coat of Dullcote afterward, and again wait 24 hours before it's done. This is a lot of extra work but the result is an absolutely rock-hard protective finish. This is way more then you'd need on a normal size metal model, and probably only needed on bigger stuff like the old metal Daemon Prince and so on - just plain Dullcote should be sufficient for anything less then that.

@OUZE oh no, you changed your avatar, I miss the A10. lol

This is quite odd, Primer is brilliant at adhereing to things and provides good "key" for other paint to adhere too. As others have said even a light dusting of Primer is enough to key a model. I think this is likely to be one of three things.

1. Mould releasing agent on the miniature. This is relatively rare on Metal Mini's and is more common on Plastic and definitely present on Resin models. Follow OUZE's advice.

2. Your paints, some old paints or badly agitated paints (make sure you mix/shake them well before using) will not act as the manufacturer intended or designed them too due to the stratified nature and the paint will not cure in the way expected. Ensure you are using Model paints, appropriate to the type of model you are using. You cannot go wrong with Acrylics, however Model/Miniature paints have a very high pigament count to make them very dense in colour and vibrant.

Varnishing can help seal the miniature, but if the paint underneath still does not adhere to the minaiture, if you drop it your paint can "De-laminate" (Check me out!) and yet still be under a layer of varnish. A thin layer of varnish (preferrable to a thick layer) offers only minimal protection. Mainly from grubby mits and light abrasive damage (moving around the table, falling over), it will not protect against moderate impacts and will result in cracking the veneer and the paint (already delaminated) will fall off.

3. The Primer is knacked buy a new can. Occassionally you just get a dodgy can!

mwnciboo wrote:
1. Mould releasing agent on the miniature. This is relatively rare on Metal Mini's and is more common on Plastic and definitely present on Resin models. Follow OUZE's advice.

I bought this miniature on eBay and it came glued with super glue so I "strip" down the super glue and gave it a wash with soapy water so that should not be the case.

mwnciboo wrote:
2. Your paints, some old paints or badly agitated paints (make sure you mix/shake them well before using) will not act as the manufacturer intended or designed them too due to the stratified nature and the paint will not cure in the way expected. Ensure you are using Model paints, appropriate to the type of model you are using. You cannot go wrong with Acrylics, however Model/Miniature paints have a very high pigament count to make them very dense in colour and vibrant.

I am using Vallejo and citadel paints so this shouldn't be the case. The main problem I am having at the moment is with the Vallejo khaki but after the paint falling of there is no primer underneath which might have been just a bit of the model without the primer.
The only paint I noticed going bad, yesterday as well (just seems to be a bad day) is the citadel orkhide shade that is drying to a purple/bluish tone rather then the green, and yes I am mixing it properly. I am adding vallejo mate medium and/or W&N acrylic flow improver which so it may be just a bad reaction to the loss of pigment adhesion.

Ouze wrote:Since this is a metal model, and possibly a heavy one? Another, "above and beyond" thing you can do is seal it by using a product from the hardware store called "minwax fast drying polyurethane", which is what you'd use to seal a wood floor.

It's and ork big mek and I am painting every part separately, the part I am having problems with is the backpack with the KFF. I might add I am holding it using my hands in the are where I get the large flakes of paint coming off. Will try to get a picture of it tonight but so far I am only missing the finish touches on the strings around the KFF,bag and highlights so there is a lot done already and that is the reason I don't want to start from beginning.

Catyrpelius wrote:For spray I use Krylon Gloss Varnish and Krylon Matte Spray. For brush on I use Liquitex gloss varnish and matte varnish.

Unfortunately Krylon brand is not available in the UK and after the test with the grey primer I must say I never want to go back to black primer ever again with the exception of the metal areas maybe (still much better than white for this).

Don't hold your model or part of your model while you paint, regardless of brand of paint and primer your hands will rub the paint off just from normal handeling.

my primer technique

gloss varnish of choice (such as army painter)

dull cote.

combines strength with a matte finish which is also very strong.