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hi guys im having trouble with painting finecast the paint either ends up really glossy or just runs together in one spot is there anything i should know about painting finecast?

Are you washing the model with soap and water before priming ? Which primer are you using?

You are priming it, right? If it is primed it should act just like any other miniature.

i didn't know about washing thanks! and it was primed with citadel chaos black

The mould release they use when casting resin seems to get left on in a lot of cases so a good wash helps a lot.

Thanks!

Wash it carefully with soap. And then prime it. You will never have a problem again

Agree with the washing comments. Also, priming resin miniatures works much better if you use a spray. I assume this is what you're using?

I have my first Finecast model and have cleaned it up and given it a bit of a swish in warm soapy water... however I have noticed some "pink" sections in the recesses. Guessing thats the release agent, so am holding off spraying it until I have give it another clean... gotta get in the crevices though

Youd think gw could could stick them in an ultrasonic cleaner before selling them really, but oh well.

ya for what they cost you would think they would at least wash them

Make sure you are not using to MUCH primer. The primer coat should not be so thick that the model is a single color, rather the primer should be applied lightly and thinly, you should still be able to see the grey of the plastic or resin underneath the primer.

Primer is meant to provide a tooth for the paint, something for it to bite into. If the primer coat is too smooth, then the paint wont have anything to stick too.

Ashton

Beatonator wrote:I have my first Finecast model and have cleaned it up and given it a bit of a swish in warm soapy water... however I have noticed some "pink" sections in the recesses. Guessing thats the release agent, so am holding off spraying it until I have give it another clean... gotta get in the crevices though

Those pink bits are mold parts. lol.

I've had no problem so long as I spray prime them.

ya it was a fairly thick primer coating its actually the first time ive primed any model

Remember to prime lightly. Too heavy a coat and you will kill the detail on the model.

Sonophos wrote:

Beatonator wrote:I have my first Finecast model and have cleaned it up and given it a bit of a swish in warm soapy water... however I have noticed some "pink" sections in the recesses. Guessing thats the release agent, so am holding off spraying it until I have give it another clean... gotta get in the crevices though

Those pink bits are mold parts. lol.

Fail.

The next person ordering a miniature of the type is going to get a shock.

One problem GW are having with finecast is that the release agent isn't reaching the parts other lubes can not reach. The mold material sticks to the resin and hey presto a screwed mold. Unless there is a 1:1 ratio of molds to models this is a built in failure.

The other problem think they are having is vacuum difficulties (assuming they are using vacuum molding) hence all the new conveniently placed vents.

This is just one example of the problems caused by blue sky thinking within the management system.
If I'm working on a problem I want at least a few pessimists with the guts to stand up and tell me the problems.

I don't want to have them fired for being negative.

A good finecast model is a joy to paint a mediocre one is an abomination. There does not seem to be a middle ground.


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It's a shame 3D printing is so slow and expensive. This would be the perfect way to produce models.

i've got a question!
not sure if it's the "exact" spot for it
but it's close

how do you clean your filles?
i've got a bunch of hobby files i used for fine detailing, filing down the burs, or making a surface smooth, etc etc ,
but they're getting dirty and gunked up with paint
any idea on best way to clean them?

Acetone, water and a soft wire brush or tooth brush at a pinch.

When they are clean dry them off and put some WD40 on them.

Yeah, mine get full of greenstuff all the time. Just soak them in acetone or even simple green and it loosens up quite a bit.

My partner bought me some sternguard for Christmas and three of them were borderline to crap.

I took them to a GW store and the guy gave me three new ones and let me keep the ones I complained about. A bit of GS and some kit bashing. Viola! 8 troops for the price of 5.

GW store policy is to replace and let you keep the faulty bits.

Ya I've been wondering as well is it just me or are missing bases common my first ork boys I bought was missing a bases and the box I bought a couple weeks ago had no bases at all! I called gw up and the mailed me replacement bases. So is it just me or anyone else got the same problem?

Hah, handy to know about the 'pink bits' on the finecast models. I recently ordered a squad of Incubi, only to have one of the models have all that pink stuff caking the recessed. I feel sorry the chap who got the batch after mine :(

It does worry me that the mold material seems to be all pink and spongy.

I always thought that the mold should be fairly dense and definitely should not have bubbles in it.

they really need to fix up there moulding process!

Sonophos wrote:It does worry me that the mold material seems to be all pink and spongy.

I always thought that the mold should be fairly dense and definitely should not have bubbles in it.

They are most likely using silicon molds, that is they only way they can get the undercuts that are on some of the detail, the molds must be able to flex. Also, there will always be bubbles in even degassed resin and silicon, pressure casting, though really good, is not the best way to cast, personally I am not surprised by the small bubbles on the fincast stuff, the large one bother me though.

If they did roto-casting on this stuff I think the quality would be so much better, bot those machines are expensive, and often require a more expensive resin,and the models can be hollow, making them more fragile.

Ashton

Sonophos wrote:Acetone, water and a soft wire brush or tooth brush at a pinch.

When they are clean dry them off and put some WD40 on them.

Rented Tritium wrote:Yeah, mine get full of greenstuff all the time. Just soak them in acetone or even simple green and it loosens up quite a bit.

thanks guys!
next question!
i use tamiya acrylic paint (coz their's a hobby shop right next door to me, and the nearest GW is over 2 hours away )
but being acylic paint the solution likes to seperate from the pigment if i let them sit for too long.... how do you mix your paint so that you don't loose an 1/8th of a bottle on the stir stick?
also, shaking does seem to do SOMETHING but very very little something

homsikpanda wrote:

Sonophos wrote:Acetone, water and a soft wire brush or tooth brush at a pinch.

When they are clean dry them off and put some WD40 on them.

Rented Tritium wrote:Yeah, mine get full of greenstuff all the time. Just soak them in acetone or even simple green and it loosens up quite a bit.

thanks guys!
next question!
i use tamiya acrylic paint (coz their's a hobby shop right next door to me, and the nearest GW is over 2 hours away )
but being acylic paint the solution likes to seperate from the pigment if i let them sit for too long.... how do you mix your paint so that you don't loose an 1/8th of a bottle on the stir stick?
also, shaking does seem to do SOMETHING but very very little something

Shaking works for me, but I'm not using Tamiya colors, so I don't know.

My father uses acrylics a lot with model railroading, with many brands of paint I've never used. He uses something like this to mix his paints - http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-121-Paint/dp/B000BROV02/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_1/180-7693092-0192421

Cheap, and looks effective enough.

If it's that bad stick it on top of your washing machine whilst on spin cycle.

Blutac it down mind.

wow this thread is really getting some conversations! i have a question to does anyone know what color looks the best as squiggoth skin?