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Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

Let's assume they are nice Winsor and Newton 7s.
I'm guessing I'd have a 1, 0, and 000.
You guys?
   
Made in fi
Rebel_Princess





Finland

I'd have a 4, a 3, and a 0.

Forever a pone. 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Large, Standard and Fine Detail in GW sizes.

I am currently taking commissions.

http://www.facebook.com/EastgatePaintingStudio
 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

What do the GW sizes come to be in regular brush sizes?
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Havn't got a clue.

I've used '0000' before and that's way smaller than 'fine detail'.

I reckon the smallest GW brush is 00 or so.

I am currently taking commissions.

http://www.facebook.com/EastgatePaintingStudio
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

hmm, probably a 2, a 1 and a 00. Then think bugger when i had to do some basing.
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Rosemary and Co Series 22 size 0, Series 33 size 3/0, and Army Painter Wargamer: Insane Detail.

Don't need bigger brushes as I have an airbrush. Size 0 does all my hand painting base coats and washes, 3/0 does all my skin blending and finer details, Insane Detail brush does eyes which I will eventually have done on every model with suitable eye detail on the model(some models have terrible eyes molded on them).

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in ca
Fresh-Faced New User





Different companies vary greatly. There is the diameter of the ferule, but also length of bristles and their angle. So Rosemary and Co. and Da Vinci have different "2"s. Just something to think about.
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

Thanks Smog for posting in both my threads.
I'm off to look at the Ott lights tonight.
   
Made in us
Guard Heavy Weapon Crewman





Peoples Republic Of Kalifornia

A 4 Flat, 00000 Spotter and a 00000 Liner, that is the bare minimum I need for a figure. Having said that I have a large collection of brushes in all manner of size and shape.

Naval Aviation Ordnance,
Specialists in Urban Renewal,Landscaping and Population Control

Every time a deployed AO does his job, a Terrorist dies.  
   
Made in us
Brainy Zoanthrope





Portland, OR

I typically use a 8 Flat for tanks and mass washing, a 2 for base coats and washes (which gets relegated to drybrushing once I've sufficiently ruined it) and a 00 for detail work. I don't go crazy small details (don't look at the eyes) so that's as small as I need.

However...

I will forever use cheapo brushes that I can abuse and throw away when I've ruined them. Hobby lobby has an adequete 5 pack of hobby brushes for $6 that have done well for me.

I had nice brushes and I let them die. I'm the reason I can't have nice things...

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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

Army Paint: Wargamer Regiment, Army Painter Wargamer Insane Detail, and the GW large brush.

Normal size comparison? Idk...

Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

It kills me at how many people use GW brushes.

And why would you post what is really a 5/0 as a 00000? Just to make me read five zeroes? Are there really brushes with five zeroes on them?

And it's surprising that people are using such big brushes. 2's? really? I mean for vehicles I guess, but an airbrush will do it better.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

Woah. What would a 5/0 be used for anyway? Eyes? Fingernails?
   
Made in ca
Fresh-Faced New User





Aerethan wrote:It kills me at how many people use GW brushes.

And why would you post what is really a 5/0 as a 00000? Just to make me read five zeroes? Are there really brushes with five zeroes on them?

And it's surprising that people are using such big brushes. 2's? really? I mean for vehicles I guess, but an airbrush will do it better.

I use a rosemary and co. 2 and 3 for work you probably do with a 00. It's all about the tip, how it holds it and the angle. Small brushes have a limited brush length, so the angle can be quite severe, a couple sizes up you have a very small angle and you have a perfect liner, able to paint much finer detail than <0 brushes. Also, airbrushing is not a replacement for brushes, and I know some people will disagree, but if you're using your airbrush for what should be work with a paint brush, I think your model suffers tremendously. Airbrushes like to paint one surface, flat and I haven't seen many shirts, trousers or bags that required a flat surface technique...
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I use an airbrush for priming, base coating and on some occasions washes on larger models. I'm not saying to replace brushes with one, but for things like tanks, hand brushing a base coat is worlds away from what can be done with an airbrush.

And I use R&C brushes. I agree that the tip is what matters. I also only really paint WFB models so there aren't often large surface areas to be painted like power armor.

I find myself using a 3/0 for most detail work these days that isn't eyeballs. I could use a larger brush, but I often already have the 3/0 out and wet unless I'm doing washes or something.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Rogue Grot Kannon Gunna





Da Mekshop

Brush 1: The one with the bigest belly, and thinnest point while still retaining good snap. I find W&N ser 7 sizes 2 the best all-rounder (it would probably be a 3 but I prefer the snap of the 2's for detailing, and the belly is plenty big enough for minis).

Brush 2: A massive soft mop for drybrushing, washes etc.

Brush 3: Can choose my airbrush? If so i'll take my Inifinity with a .15 needle (seeing as this may be cheating i'll leave the other needles out )


   
Made in gb
Krazed Killa Kan






Newport, S Wales

Probably get flamed for this one, but...

GW Small Drybrush
GW Standard Brush
GW Fine Detail Brush

I own only 5 brushes (all of them GW, the other 2 being the medium drybrush and the stippling brush) But 95% of my painting is done with those 3 brushes. So I guess that's my choices nice and safe really...

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 Atma01 wrote:

And that is why you hear people yelling FOR THE EMPEROR rather than FOR LOGICAL AND QUANTIFIABLE BASED DECISIONS FOR THE BETTERMENT OF THE MAJORITY!


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daveNYC wrote:The Craftworld guys, who are such stick-in-the-muds that they manage to make the Ultramarines look like an Ibiza nightclub that spiked its Red Bull with LSD.
 
   
Made in us
Scouting Shadow Warrior





Leigen_Zero wrote:Probably get flamed for this one, but...

GW Small Drybrush
GW Standard Brush
GW Fine Detail Brush

I own only 5 brushes (all of them GW, the other 2 being the medium drybrush and the stippling brush) But 95% of my painting is done with those 3 brushes. So I guess that's my choices nice and safe really...


Bwaha, I gotcha beat. I've got only 3 brushes-

GW Standard
GW Fine Detail
Old piece of for mixing paints and "painting" PVA glue.

As a fantasy player w/o any big war machines, I don't find myself needing anything else.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/01/25 12:58:23


 
   
Made in gb
Emboldened Warlock




Raphael brushes cant remember the exact type. But 0 1 2 are what I use for everything.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

Aerethan wrote:It kills me at how many people use GW brushes.

And why would you post what is really a 5/0 as a 00000? Just to make me read five zeroes? Are there really brushes with five zeroes on them?

And it's surprising that people are using such big brushes. 2's? really? I mean for vehicles I guess, but an airbrush will do it better.


I can paint very fine details with a w&n series 7 size 2 as they have such a fine tip. Just because you dont like it doesnt make it "wrong"
   
Made in us
Loyal Necron Lychguard





St. Louis, MO

Pretty much my main brushes anyway:

- W&N S7 5 (bit of a monster brush, but really works nice on larger models.)
- W&N S7 1/0
- W&N S7 2/0

11,100 pts, 7,000 pts
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Surrender to the machine incarnate. Surrender and die.
++

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Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

W&N S7 2
W&N S7 1
Some crappy flat drybrush.

That will cover 90% of my painting needs.
The better the brush, the bigger it can be. Good brushes have finer points and hold more paint in the belly of the brush. With a good brush, painting eyes is easy with a size 1.
   
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Human Auxiliary to the Empire



San Jose, CA



The GW large drybrush, small drybrush and detail brush is pretty much all I use.

- Battleforce boxed set 
   
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Steadfast Grey Hunter





Sanford, FL

I use a GW standard and fine detail as well as various 1 and 0 from other companies. For priming, basecoating, and washing I like to use the flat shader brushes (4, 6, or 8).

2000
#spacewolves 
   
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Warplord Titan Princeps of Tzeentch





Aerethan wrote:I use an airbrush for priming, base coating and on some occasions washes on larger models. I'm not saying to replace brushes with one, but for things like tanks, hand brushing a base coat is worlds away from what can be done with an airbrush.

Depends on how many tanks you have I suppose. Even if I had 10+ tanks, I couldn't justify the expense of an airbrush.

I'd be happy with a 1, 0, and 3/0.

text removed by Moderation team. 
   
Made in au
Stabbin' Skarboy






Queensland (Australia)

Drybrush, 1, 000

The Humies Waste presious time with slow and boring speeches; While the Oks just get it over and done with in one simple WAAGGGHHHH!!
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Made in us
Guard Heavy Weapon Crewman





Peoples Republic Of Kalifornia

matphat wrote:Woah. What would a 5/0 be used for anyway? Eyes? Fingernails?


I use the 5/0 and 6/0 brushes to pick out real small details and darken the creases on my mini's. I also use them to get the underwear on some of Hasselfree's girls just right. It's amazing the things you can see with a set of 3 power reading glasses.

As for all the zeros, I do have some of my older brushes with that many zeros marked on the handle.

Naval Aviation Ordnance,
Specialists in Urban Renewal,Landscaping and Population Control

Every time a deployed AO does his job, a Terrorist dies.  
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

biccat wrote:
Aerethan wrote:I use an airbrush for priming, base coating and on some occasions washes on larger models. I'm not saying to replace brushes with one, but for things like tanks, hand brushing a base coat is worlds away from what can be done with an airbrush.

Depends on how many tanks you have I suppose. Even if I had 10+ tanks, I couldn't justify the expense of an airbrush.

I'd be happy with a 1, 0, and 3/0.


Well how much is your time worth to you(you're a lawyer aren't you? so I'd imagine an hour costs a lot )? Basecoating my 40 Dark Elves Crossbowmen, 25 Spearmen and 50 High Elves spearmen would have taken me days upon days to finish if I had hand brushed them. Being able to airbrush all that silver armor took me only 2 hours to basecoat over 100 models. So it's not JUST for tanks, it's a time saver for one of the most tedious steps of painting, plus it can prime without fear of gritty finishes or humidity problems.

So if your time is worth more to you than the $200-300 initial investment, an airbrush is well worth it.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
 
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