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Soap breaks the surface tension of the paint and allows it to flow better instead of pooling and creating edge lines. Liquitex makes a product called Flo-Aid that does this too. This allows washes to work their best.
"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
To continue with Les's washes, here is a nice and simple video showing how to do rust and patina washes:
Alternatively, if you don't feel like making your own washes, for my crons:
- basecoat them boltgun metal
- wash with citadel's black wash
- drybrush with chainmail
- wash again with citadel's gryphonne sepia
- edge/highlight with chainmail again (or you can do a very light drybrush if you are feeling lazy)
- paint the details
Effectively gives them less of a grimey, built up rust in the cracks look and more of an ancient, oily, surface rust appearance.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/02/14 18:06:29
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sacred earth. We have awoken to your primative species and will not tolerate your presence. Ours is the way of logic,
of cold hard reason: your irrationality, your human disease has no place in the necrontyr. Flesh is weak.
Surrender to the machine incarnate. Surrender and die. ++
Tuagh wrote: If you won't use a wrench, it isn't the bolt's fault that your hammer is useless.
It is a bit expensive at $9 plus shipping, and is kind of hard to come by (CMON has it on occassion) but I have been using the same bottle for about two years and am no where near running out.
Check out my Land Raider, and that was very watered and wiped off straight away! Put it on heavy, then use some kitchen roll to lift and streak the wash in the direction you want! Add a little red or orange paint if you are putting it on a dark colour.
Kanluwen wrote:Blazing Orange mixed with water and soap.
I've got a few examples of it in my "Children Shouldn't Play With Dead Things" album if you'd like photographic examples.
Ill agree with this, Ive done a similar wash for years, and it looks fantastic. Something else you can try to give it a stronger rust look in spots, is to actually put blazing orange on a spot you want the rust heavy, and then simply wipe it off with your finger or a cloth. It takes most the paint off, but leaves some heavy orange in low spots and such. Give it a try, you might like it. You can look in my gallery and see a boat load of Orks done in that manner
What i am going to try is secret-weapons baby poop and dark sepia washes each by themselves ,then one over the other to and put them both on wet to see if i get them to streak then dip using army painter dark dip and see which one out the five looks the best
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/02/16 01:13:04
I start by doing a wash of thinned badab black over the area to be oxidized, let that dry then a non
-dilluted wash of devlan mud, let that set to about half dry. I then sprinkle a few grains of sea salt on it & leave it until dry. Brush the salt off & repeat the step with gryphonne sepia & salt, then I matte varnish it immediately after removing the salt.
Red_Starrise wrote:I start by doing a wash of thinned badab black over the area to be oxidized, let that dry then a non
-dilluted wash of devlan mud, let that set to about half dry. I then sprinkle a few grains of sea salt on it & leave it until dry. Brush the salt off & repeat the step with gryphonne sepia & salt, then I matte varnish it immediately after removing the salt.
What does the salt do?
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Red_Starrise wrote:I start by doing a wash of thinned badab black over the area to be oxidized, let that dry then a non
-dilluted wash of devlan mud, let that set to about half dry. I then sprinkle a few grains of sea salt on it & leave it until dry. Brush the salt off & repeat the step with gryphonne sepia & salt, then I matte varnish it immediately after removing the salt.
What does the salt do?
gives it a weathered look buy blocking the next coat of whatever you put on next so the layer underneath shows thru in a very organic pattern after you remove the sea salt.
Any combination of browns with a little bit of black, all mixed in with 91% rubbing alcohol to a watery level. This allows the paint to dry very chalky like rust by the alcohol evaporating. I use this with my orks.
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