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morning dakka,

I've finally gotten 'round to applying decals to my marines and I'm not having a good time of it. my process:

- put decal in water
- slather target area with micro set
- slide decal off backing paper onto target area
- apply a bit more micro set
- let dry
- notice that decal isn't flat and apply micro sol
- let dry
- notice that decal *still* isn't flat
- repeat micro sol a couple more times
- post on dakka

here's a sample:


sorry for the shiny, I've applied gloss varnish over the shoulder pads in prep for a matt finish (I read somewhere that this is how you disguise the transfer edges). anyway, I'm not sure how clearly it shows up here but on both models there are little wrinkles and puckers around the edges in a few spots. I'm assuming this is due to trying to make the decal conform to a rounded surface, but I was under the impression that the micro set/sol would sort this out. what can I be doing better, here?

cheers

Moar Microsol. :-) I usually end up doing at least 3 applications. Whilst the decal is soft I use the side of a 1/4" flat brush to bed it down Takes time to do it right; longer in most cases than doing the freehand would. The advantage is consistency of the design. Don't re-gloss until the decal is flattened right down.

you need to make some "relief" cuts in the decal after it has been applied. Make sure and use a fresh exact blade.

Ashton

Redfinger wrote:you need to make some "relief" cuts in the decal after it has been applied. Make sure and use a fresh exact blade.

Ashton

Yes, some patterns need pretty big cuts. Wish someone would invent more flexible transfers. Stencils curved to fit shoulder pads would be fantastic too, could stipple or airbrush them on.

I just realized that someone else had posted a similar thread, so apologies for the semi-repeat :(

having reading through winterdyne's excellent tutorial (linked in that other post), I think I'm doing everything he suggests with the exception of glossing the target surface before applying the decal. will have to remember to do that in the future.

regarding making relief cuts, is there any particular science to where I should make them? should I do this before or after the decal's applied? I've tried making a couple small slices where I was seeing puckers after the decal had been applied, but it didn't seem to help with the puckering. do I need to hit it with more micro sol after making the cuts?

Yeah, you'll need to apply more microsol, but don't make the cuts while the decal is wet, there's a good chance of tearing it if you do.

winterdyne wrote:Yeah, you'll need to apply more microsol, but don't make the cuts while the decal is wet, there's a good chance of tearing it if you do.

This is subjective....I use a fresh xacto blade and I do it on the model, while it is wet, and yes you need to be careful, or you can tear the decal, but I tend to have better luck on the model than on the sheet. On the model I can see where it is creasing and cut in the correct spots. Another thing that helps is the get your self a damp paper towel, and after you have made your cuts take the damp paper towel and press on the decal to flatten it out. It is important that you press directly and not at an angle, otherwise you can shift the decal.

Ashton