Switch Theme:

removing mold lines from irregular surfaces?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

it seems like every time I work on a model with a ribbed hose or an ammo belt or some such, there's a fat mold line running right down the center of it. I've never had much luck cleaning up that line. I get the worst of it with a knife, but it's still visible; more so once there's paint on it, naturally. I'm afraid to really go to town with the knife or files for fear of removing all the detail along with the mold line. does anyone have any tips for cleaning up areas like this?

cheers,

v

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Decatur, IL

I usually do the same as you, use a knife edge to get those mold lines. If you scrape along, its usually doesn't take to much of the detail. I'll also use the back side of the x-acto knife, to go through the in between areas to get the mold lines there, or use a half round file edge to get those areas. It just takes some extra time to get the best out of your models.

Hope this helps some.

 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

A knife to get most of it and a decent needle file to get between the ribs. Really you just have to take your time and be careful tho, no easy answer im afraid
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Decatur, IL

Just looked on the Tutorial section and seen a video on making power cables using wire. Could be an alternative for some of the cables with mold lines on them.

Here is the link - http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/439224.page


 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

If you scrape lightly, you can get most of the flash off without harming the ribs of a hose, appreciably. At least, that would be the case if there was ever a simple cleanup to be done on the damned things. Seems the more complex a surface, the more egregious a stepped shift line I find. For these, I almost always end up having to do some major reshaping, then recut the grooves with a fine triangular file. You'll never perfectly match the pattern of the original, but I've found that a reasonable approximation is good enough to give the illusion of continuity from anything more than a foot away. I'm willing to make that compromise.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





USA

You can get a triangle shaped or square shaped micro-file. Then using the corner of the file use that to get into tight spots and cracks.

Ashton

   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: