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Looks Awesome love the very effective simple colour scheme. the base is great, nice job

Maraming salamat Nightfall

That's "thank you very much" in our language.

This is my first time to use a base other than the circular one. I just ordered the Woodland and Desert basing kits from http://basecrafts.com/. I wanted the Winter but I don't know how to paint 'snow' effects on a kit yet. I believe snow is the hardest to do.

Yeah I love the colour and it's so simple, paint up a whole army please

Young Logan

I love the signet lens in particular. The whole model looks great!

Power fist might be a waste unless your running a ten man squad. If your devs run into CC then they kinda missed the point of being devs, unless you combat squad them. If your just going for the look , then i think it looks cool like that.

The orange and the red aquilla kinda blend though.

Pose is a little strange, but great paint job nonetheless.

@Young_Logan: Thank you. Hmm, I'm not really an army painter although I started practicing painting with a 10-man SM squad. Now, I just buy individual pieces that I fancy from e-bay I do have some squads that have yet to be painted though like the Legion of the Damned and the SM Scouts + Land Speeder Storm.

I got the metal Legion of the Damned because the store owner said I should get them before they get converted to Finecast. I did recently order a metal Vostroyan 10-man squad for the same reason. The Vostroyan I think would be a joy to paint because they have fur, metal, clothes, skin, wood, etc.

@Raatcharch: Thank you. I think I may have reversed the highlight on the lenses. Based on some tutorials I've seen, highlights on gems and lenses should be at the bottom for some reason

@Deathshead420: Thank you too. I actually kind of agree with you. I discussed this with my friend who also paints. I asked whether I should use the extra long-range weapoons or the bolter (which I sawed off so it looks like a big pistol) and power fist. He said that in case the devs are somehow CCed (Raptors? or Warp Spiders?), at least the Sargeant should be able to squish them fast. I'm not really familiar with the battle formations of WH40K as I don't play the game. Would the devs have close-in support just in case they get flanked like maybe a Dreadnought armed with melee weapons?

@PewPewPweing: Thank you. Yeah, I also agree about the pose. He he. I put on the head first before the power fist and oopsie, he's not looking where he's pointing. And I think the gun would be better posed pointing downwards. But no worries, I didn't use Tamiya Cement this time. I just used Super Glue and I heard that hot water would help disassemble this quickly in the future should I wish to repaint it. My mistake was that I didn't use Blu Tak to temporarily find the best pose. I know about this technique but didn't use it. It just slipped my mind.

Thank you guys for visiting. I lurked here in DakkaDakka for a year before I felt confident sharing. I still have a long way to go before my work nears the level of some great painters here.

I think it's very well painted, but as a purely subjective opinion I really don't like the color.

Deathshead420 wrote:Power fist might be a waste unless your running a ten man squad. If your devs run into CC then they kinda missed the point of being devs, unless you combat squad them. If your just going for the look , then i think it looks cool like that.

The orange and the red aquilla kinda blend though.

I agree. Darkening it or going for a blue colour may work. Or even classic metal.

@SgtSixkilla: Thank you. He actually started out as an Imperial Fist but for some reason I didn't like Yellow so I airbrushed Devlan Mud and then Ogryn Flesh. I finalized with Future to make him shiny.

@Je suis2 au hazard: Thank you for your comment. I'd like to confirm whether you mean the whole armor or just the power fist. I did see a lot of power fists being painted
a different color. I'll try that next time.

Pose reminds me of Yosemite Sam and the no barrel bolter kinda bugs me. Any spare bolters or brass pipe you can fix it with...I'm assuming you were drilling the bolted and it broke or went awry and you just fethed it out of there.

Oh and grass doesnt grow under rocks...I understand the look you wanted but dipping him in static grass won't do it. Try pinching in your fingers and applying it. Repeatedly building up the amount of grass to get a bushy look.

Task and Purpose wrote:Pose reminds me of Yosemite Sam and the no barrel bolter kinda bugs me. Any spare bolters or brass pipe you can fix it with...I'm assuming you were drilling the bolted and it broke or went awry and you just fethed it out of there.

If only I had a $1 for every barrel drilling that has gone wrong.........

@Task and Purpose: He he, you guessed right about the bolter "incident". I drilled the front correctly but I used the same drill bit for the smaller holes on the side (not sure what they're called in gun speak) and I broke the barrel. So I cut it off and went for the pistol look. I'm not really an expert about guns so I'm not sure if guns without protruding barrels exist. Personally, I do like the look but yeah I understand that it's not canon in the WH40K universe.

As for the grass growing under rocks, that's not a rock but a broken thin concrete slab. I saw something like this on my way to work a few days ago. I'm sorry to say that here in the Philippines, our road construction isn't really up to par with American or European standards. I was in the Netherlands years ago and I never felt any bumps whatsoever during my taxi rides. Here we just pour cement on top of the soil and that's it. After a few months, they get repaired again and money goes to local politicians. Anyway...

I agree about the irregular grass, I was always curious how you guys are able to make them stand up. I didn't know until now, thanks a lot for this tip man.

As for Yosemite Sam, ha ha. It would be funny to put a dwarf's head to replace that helmet. Only if I could sculpt a cowboy hat on top of the dwarf's head.

@repsOI: If only I had a $1 for every stray paint that I need to retouch.

I don't know why, but the more i look at the bolter the more I kind of like it like that.

@Deathshead420: I know a few won't agree but I consider the broken barrel a 'happy' accident. I wouldn't always want to experience such accidents though as it was idiotic for me to use a large drill bit (1.5mm) just because I was too lazy to change it to 1 mm.

Wouldn't it be cool to have a 28mm equivalent of the pulse rifle in Aliens 2?

Astig na mini pre!
Really love the brown/blue goimg on.

I should also say, I put a power weapon on a devastator sergeant. And it was worth it! Assault squad in my rear way leading to to the assault. I actually won combat but I think a Powerfist is to overkill.

@Diabolical13: Salamat pre (Thanks friend). I know there are a few Filipinos like me here but this is my first time to hear from one.

There are many great painters here like Camelson. Good thing he posted again or I wouldn't have seen this, http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/401970.page.

@ Carlo

http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=pulse-rifles~hfl013&category=armoury~sci%252dfi

Very smart paintjob and a very interesting colour scheme, personally I would paint the powerfist a contrasting colour so it stands out more on the model.

Good work

Very nice, simple paint scheme. Has a crisp feel to it.

-Wolf Guard 252

i would personally paint the fingers of the powerfist in the same colors as you painted your lenses!
and keep in mind with a powerfist you need to paint it in reversed shading to make it look like its glowing! (recesses and lighter then flat areas. then edgehighlight it)

on the subject of edge highlighting, i see some highlights, but not a lot, imo it could use with a bit more (volmit brown (old color)) on the edges to make it stand out.
and some final highlights on the chest eagle to make the red pop a little more

other then that, i think your orange guard is looking pretty cool!

@Deathshead420: Whoah! Thanks man.

@wildboar: Thank you. Yes, if I ever get another Space Marine with a power fist, I'll paint it a different color.

Pity this is no longer available: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1560132&_requestid=5091544

It's probably going to be offered as a Finecast soon.

@DijnsK: Thank you. I really appreciate painting tips from more experienced painters.

I agree about the highlights. I think I painted them too thinly (I dabbed the paintbrush on a paper towel until there's no virtually paint left).

Thank you guys for the confidence boosters and suggestions for improvement.

carlomontoya wrote:Pity this is no longer available: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1560132&_requestid=5091544

lol click that link and look to the right
there is a box with all 5 sternguard in there. that one model included.
its a good box to pick up. i got the metal edition though, which is great for me because i like to strip my models again and again to practice.

pick it up. its worth every penny! be sure that if you buy it in a store to check it first, and if you buy it online buy it from GW because if the models are messed up too bad you will get a new model (sometimes even a complete set!)

@DijnsK: I bought three resin kits (two Operational Detachment A from Legend Productions and one small Warjack) and my experience preparing them was bad.

While I was able to assemble one of the ODA soldiers, I accidentally broke of the barrel of his rifle and since it's so razor thin, I don't know how to put it back.

As for the Warjack, it's the opposite. The resin or plastic used by Privateer Press is so hard that I couldn't remove the mold lines successfully. I recently bought a variable speed rotary tool just to help me the Warjack and hopefully future metal miniatures.

My officemate who's also into minis had a bad experience with Finecast too. Easy to break.

And finally, as you've said, metal and plastic are easier to strip. I use Simple Green. I assume with resin, it's not as easy.

simple green also works for finecast resin.
btw resin is really easy to convert!

the only thing bad about finecast is the miscast / airbubble / flash risk, but if thats the case GW often just sends a new one.
and it takes primer better then plastic / metal models