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Hello, I know there's other threads and such about removing forgeworld mold release, ive bought models in the past.

I bought some hades drills and DKoK engineers, the drills are the problem.

I've done dawn soap with variable temperature water, hot-hot to luke warm, several times.
Soaked in Simple Green for 3-4 days, and then super clean for another 3-4 days, washing in between of course.

I've seen some of the mold release come off but, i can't wait for these models to get the mold release off after a month of soaking.

I'd like to know if anyone in the US has a very quick solution to get the mold release off, I'm thinking about going to an automotive store tomorrow and asking for some of the toughest grease remover they have.


Preferably something that takes a day or two at the most, hoping to use them in a local tournament soon.

I normally just soap them and its good to go. :You could do a test model and if it doesn't work strip it. That's what I did for my DKOK.

Are you using a sonic bath?
They're quite cheap & might help.

Other than that, I use a glass fibre pencil (sometimes with a brass brush instead of the glass fibre one).
They look like this -
http://www.shesto.co.uk/p1226/Glass_Fibre_Pencil_-_4mm/product_info.html
Don't know where you would get one in the US - maybe someone out there knows??

It sounds a bit heavy-handed but so far it's the only thing I've found that's 100% on the bits you can reach with the pen.

Note: if you use the glass fibre tip use loads of water - I can't stress this enough. If the tip is dry tiny bits of glass break off & get between your fingers and are basically microscopic splinters - horrible!

Hi,

My foolproof method of forgeworld mold release removal:


1. Soak parts in a large container with a lot of dawn for 1 day.
2. Get another large container, fill with warm water. Remove parts from soak and submerge in warm water.
3. Use sonic toothbrush (I use a sonicare brush) and run it over ever part of the model.
4. Wash off part in another container. Place on paper towel.

Repeat for each part, then repeat the entire process a second time. If you still have issues, use a gloss varnish.

What model is it, btw?

If your paint is having a hard time sticking it is most likely not model release , but the resin sweating. I have found this to be a common problem with FW stuff. Now I simply wash my FW models, then hit them with a light coat of Testors Dull Coat. The lacquer base of the coat sticks to anything and provides a nice surface for primer and paint to stick too.

Ashton

Redfinger wrote:If your paint is having a hard time sticking it is most likely not model release , but the resin sweating. I have found this to be a common problem with FW stuff. Now I simply wash my FW models, then hit them with a light coat of Testors Dull Coat. The lacquer base of the coat sticks to anything and provides a nice surface for primer and paint to stick too.

Ashton

Do you find the resin sweating to be a long term issue or does the dull cote hold it in check? This could be the issue the OP is facing.

Orinoco wrote:

Redfinger wrote:If your paint is having a hard time sticking it is most likely not model release , but the resin sweating. I have found this to be a common problem with FW stuff. Now I simply wash my FW models, then hit them with a light coat of Testors Dull Coat. The lacquer base of the coat sticks to anything and provides a nice surface for primer and paint to stick too.

Ashton

Do you find the resin sweating to be a long term issue or does the dull cote hold it in check? This could be the issue the OP is facing.

Once I have coated them I have never had any issues after that.

Ashton

Its not resin sweating that I know of, I havent primed the models yet either because of my problem.

The problem is that when you get a FW model its noticeably shiny(mold release), I can't get that shine to go away.
I've had past models that had resin sweating and the shine goes away for a little bit before returning.

These I wash and wash but barely get some of the shine to go away in a few parts/spots.

I have yet to have one part with no shine, or minimal shine that I would feel comfortable enough to prime.

And I feel like Testor's dullcoat doesn't help the issue, since its just making the mold release appearance go away not the actual problem(since some people say this works).


I've been using dawn, simple green, super clean. A regular toothbrush, for about 10 mins for a decently flat part and nothing.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
and thanks for the reply's

Odd. The few Forgeworld models I've had so far I just scrubbed with a toothbrush and hot water with dishwashing liquid in it.

I buy a lot of forgeworld stuff and NEVER had to soak stuff for months. simply wash it with dish soap any brand really theres no special trick its just oil very not strong oil either and then rinse with water simple green is WAY OVER KILL honestly what you're saying simply cant be true.

wash with dish soap in bowl for liek 2 min
rinse in clean water
let dry
paint

theres nothing special to it and all it takes is water

if you seriously are having this big of an issue with the models contact FW for replacements they are pretty good about it

The models should be dull right when the mold release comes all off?

Like a finecast model dull kinda? No shine?

But yea there all the same model, two are same batch. Not sure if I've gotten unlucky or what.

The engineers all have some models that molds didnt match up right and models halves are off by like 3-5mm each, which sucks.

shank911 wrote:The models should be dull right when the mold release comes all off?

Like a finecast model dull kinda? No shine?

Not always. I have had some of my FW resin remain shiny even after washing it. The shiny resin even felt slick to the touch but when it was primed and painted it didn't give me any issues.

You may just have a shiny batch of models that are quite clean and ready for assembly/paint.

Do you have any of the sprue tabs available to test prime? It should become readily apparent whether or not the primer will hold onto the resin tabs after the primer dries (if your models are still greasy the dried primer will come off on your fingertips as you touch the model).

The fresher the mould, the shinier the casts (even without mould release). It might be that you just have casts that aren't in appreciable demand, so the moulds haven't worn as much.

Prime one and see. If it comes off, then strip it and find a better paint. FW themselves recommend a rival AUTOMOTIVE primer for priming their stuff - as opposed to GW spray paints.

Duplicolor do a good range in autoprimers. Go for a grey or black primer.

victor.IG wrote:I buy a lot of forgeworld stuff and NEVER had to soak stuff for months. simply wash it with dish soap any brand really theres no special trick its just oil very not strong oil either and then rinse with water simple green is WAY OVER KILL honestly what you're saying simply cant be true.

wash with dish soap in bowl for liek 2 min
rinse in clean water
let dry
paint

theres nothing special to it and all it takes is water

if you seriously are having this big of an issue with the models contact FW for replacements they are pretty good about it

clearly you're a n00b.

I like how the instructions ere work better then the actual forgworld instrustions of "hurp derp wash it with soap"

I used Windex and hot water but I have never heard of mold release staying on after all that soaking before . I would contact Forge World and for a exchange . Im sure they won't help out but you never know till you ask .

shank911 wrote:Hello, I know there's other threads and such about removing forgeworld mold release, ive bought models in the past.

I bought some hades drills and DKoK engineers, the drills are the problem.

I've done dawn soap with variable temperature water, hot-hot to luke warm, several times.
Soaked in Simple Green for 3-4 days, and then super clean for another 3-4 days, washing in between of course.

I've seen some of the mold release come off but, i can't wait for these models to get the mold release off after a month of soaking.

I'd like to know if anyone in the US has a very quick solution to get the mold release off, I'm thinking about going to an automotive store tomorrow and asking for some of the toughest grease remover they have.


Preferably something that takes a day or two at the most, hoping to use them in a local tournament soon.

I hate to ask it...

But did you buy these directly from FW or did you buy them off of eBay?

The only time I had issues like this was when I got a model off of eBay, which ended up being a recast.

shank911 wrote:
The problem is that when you get a FW model its noticeably shiny(mold release), I can't get that shine to go away.

These I wash and wash but barely get some of the shine to go away in a few parts/spots.

I have yet to have one part with no shine, or minimal shine that I would feel comfortable enough to prime.

I've been using dawn, simple green, super clean. A regular toothbrush, for about 10 mins for a decently flat part and nothing.

When Forge World first started out most of the pieces were cast in polyester resin. Polyester resin is heavier, more brittle and MUCH cheaper than polyurethane resin.
Polyester resin parts will often come out of the mold shiny, either because the original part was shiny or the heavy use of greasy/waxy mold release (usually aerosoled vaseline or vaious waxes). Its also possible to get shiny surfaces with polyurethane resin if using the same types of mold release. At Armorcast we used talcum powder as our mold release (and surface tension reducer), for polyurethane resin, so surfaces were unlikely to come out of the mold shiny. Scrubbing was still necessary because the talcum powder reside needs to be removed before painting

If you are doing all the cleaning listed above, I do'n't think its not excess mold release, its probably just a very shiny piece. I would consider priming one piece to see what happens. If you are uncomfortable with that idea, try scuffing it up with a green scrubby pad before priming. Definitely try automotive primer. It uses stronger solvents than hobby sprays, so will stick to the resin better.

Tim

If you're still looking to clean release agent off you resin kit, you also might want to try industrial purple cleaner. This stuff works great. Use in concentrated forms and scrub it on with a toothbrush and rinse it off. Be sure to wear gloves though, this stuff is very potent.