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Made in au
Regular Dakkanaut





i have googled this for a few minutes now and i cant find any information on it... if i wanted to paint my assassin or sniper to "blend" with the background how do i do it?

i remember like 6 years ago when i was only 12-13 and i had a brief experience in 40k, that in white dwarf they posted a tau stealth suit that had a building wall attached to the background and oh my god did the thing look as close to having a stealth suit on than anything it was amazing i used to love that photo.. ahahahah
   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






Dorset, Southern England

It had to be done:



Try muted colours that blend in, make them slow moving poses...

BlapBlapBlap: bringing idiocy and mischief where it should never set foot since 2011.

BlapBlapBlap wrote:What sort of idiot quotes themselves in their sigs? Who could possibly be that arrogant?
 
   
Made in au
Regular Dakkanaut





http://www.roughneckjoe.com/mini/tau/stealth/DSC08085.jpg

this is a cool idea... but i really want a paint scheme not just clear plastic ahha


Automatically Appended Next Post:
hahahahaaha good one blapblapbalp

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/13 16:57:43


 
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

spaceXjam wrote:http://www.roughneckjoe.com/mini/tau/stealth/DSC08085.jpg

this is a cool idea... but i really want a paint scheme not just clear plastic ahha


Automatically Appended Next Post:
hahahahaaha good one blapblapbalp


I like the clear ones, very cool.

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Warmachine (Cygnar)
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Song of Blades & Heroes
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Open to other games too






 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Think about how the unit in question is supposed to be camouflaging itself.

If it's a camo print on cloth, simply paint a camo pattern in the appropriate colors. I know there are tutorials floating around on painting various camo schemes. If you want to bring modeling into it, a number of folks have used natural bristle (harvested from cheap chip brushes) and/or medical gauze to model camo nets and ghillie suits on their models. Like this one:


If they're being cloaked with electronic systems, I've seen some pretty cool painted effects, where the model was mostly painted normally, but with a few areas painted to match the basing. The two areas were divided by an "energy wave" sort of effect, as if the optical cloaking field was spreading over the model. Here's another example from the gallery:

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Khorne Rhino Driver with Destroyer





Washington

Here's a guide for a version the model above on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aP4XCN6qr8M

The one blending into a wall:
http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs44/f/2009/091/1/a/Stealth_Tau_by_Bou87.jpg

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/13 17:45:17


 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

So...

I really wanted to do my Lictors (or just my DL) in clear cast resin, but never got to it. Just found clear casting resin at Michaels though, so give me time...

Currently, I painted my chitin with Chameleon paint. The colors change depending on the angle you view it from. But, if you really did want something that was "Stealthed" or "Invisible," the other ideas presented can be way cooler than my own, if done properly

Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in lv
Charging Wild Rider





BlapBlapBlap wrote:It had to be done:



Try muted colours that blend in, make them slow moving poses...


I can't see it. You can't see it. But it's there!

Looking to trade away 15mm Forged in Battle Pumas (still in the box). 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Madison, WI

Chrome paint, So it reflects the things around it?

Actually I like Oadie's suggestion the best... though the clear ones are pretty darn cool.

Anvildude: "Honestly, it's kinda refreshing to see an Ork vehicle that doesn't look like a rainbow threw up on it."

Gitsplitta's Unified Painting Theory
 
   
Made in us
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant






This is how my friend (and all around awesome painter) Pekel did Lictors for a commission:



and the other 2


Basically the first one is revealing itself while the other two are still lurking.
Simple, but effective
   
Made in au
Horrific Horror




Melbourne, Australia

i like the clear ones too and i would maybe highlight select edges or panels for a realy dramatic effect.

but for total stealth...you just can't beat having a base plate that is totaly empty lol just like the one pictured in the above posts, i love that idea, fantastic way to cheap around your army and it makes great sence lol

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Made in nl
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine





the Netherlands

oadie's second pic would be my best guess. thats the effect i like the most, except for the clear casts

   
Made in gb
Steady Space Marine Vet Sergeant





United Kingdom

oadie wrote:If they're being cloaked with electronic systems, I've seen some pretty cool painted effects, where the model was mostly painted normally, but with a few areas painted to match the basing. The two areas were divided by an "energy wave" sort of effect, as if the optical cloaking field was spreading over the model. Here's another example from the gallery:


That is pretty dam cool. I'd go with that affect

   
Made in nl
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine





the Netherlands

if you pull it off successfully make a tut about it!

   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Zealand

I'd go for a base with a lot of terrain/cover on it (any sticky-uppy bits would NOT count for game purposes) and then paint the model in colours/patterns that closely match the base, thus implying the model's ability to blend in.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






don't do this:

 Avatar 720 wrote:
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Powder Burns wrote:what they need to make is a fullsize leatherman, like 14" long folded, with a bone saw, notches for bowstring, signaling flare, electrical hand crank generator, bolt cutters..
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

cardboard box on a base?
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

AustonT wrote:don't do this:
Spoiler:


So... I'll admit that the concept was a good one, but the attempt was not. Is this a fair assessment?

I started stripping my incomplete lictor so I can do some testing with the idea. I'm gonna go do some more research on other ideas and concepts. As much as I like putting my lictor next to a wall, it's not good for gameplay. I'll try to let you guys know, if you're interested.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/15 23:19:50


Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in gb
Ichor-Dripping Talos Monstrosity






AustonT wrote:don't do this:


What is that? glued on flock???

Aside from the 'clear plastic/resin' stanard, I've been toying with trying some vacuum formed clear plastic, to create a clear shell to go over them for a camo-effect.
Another idea I just had (so not entirely thought through) is possibly paint a bright chromish colour, then paint some Water Effect over them.

Maybe with some glowy eyes....

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/06/15 23:40:14


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






I guess the ultimate way to do it would be to make molds of them, cast clear resin copies, and then only paint about half of each model to represent it entering/exiting 'stealth mode.' Seems like a lot of work, so I'd probably just try it the way the one is done that Oadie painted.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






fenrir1997 wrote:
AustonT wrote:don't do this:
Spoiler:


So... I'll admit that the concept was a good one, but the attempt was not. Is this a fair assessment?

I started stripping my incomplete lictor so I can do some testing with the idea. I'm gonna go do some more research on other ideas and concepts. As much as I like putting my lictor next to a wall, it's not good for gameplay. I'll try to let you guys know, if you're interested.
I think that it was a lazy attempt to avoid painting it. If you keep the base simple like the posted example was matching it should be no big deal. Gluing flock to the model...not an answer.

 Avatar 720 wrote:
You see, to Auston, everyone is a Death Star; there's only one way you can take it and that's through a small gap at the back.

Come check out my Blood Angels,Crimson Fists, and coming soon Eldar
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/391013.page
I have conceded that the Eldar page I started in P&M is their legitimate home. Free Candy! Updated 10/19.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/391553.page
Powder Burns wrote:what they need to make is a fullsize leatherman, like 14" long folded, with a bone saw, notches for bowstring, signaling flare, electrical hand crank generator, bolt cutters..
 
   
Made in us
Screaming Shining Spear





Hagerstown, MD

pistolepete wrote:I guess the ultimate way to do it would be to make molds of them, cast clear resin copies, and then only paint about half of each model to represent it entering/exiting 'stealth mode.' Seems like a lot of work, so I'd probably just try it the way the one is done that Oadie painted.



And illegal =)

4500 Points
3500 (1500 painting, using Lizardmen models) http://imgur.com/a/Y28Fw#0
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Made in gb
Road-Raging Blood Angel Biker





The Burn, Lancashire

http://fc01.deviantart.net/fs44/f/2009/091/1/a/Stealth_Tau_by_Bou87.jpg

I found this and it looks pretty good. There is one that was featured in White Dwarf, I'm sure of it, and it looks immensely good!

Found it, it's part of this PDF on the bottom left

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m490157a_UK_WD319_TauStealthSuits.pdf

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/06/16 12:50:49


Camouflage is the colour of fear... I have no need to hide from my foes... I have no fear of death. My colours I wear openly, they proclaim louder than any words, "I am proud to live - I am proud to die" :  
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

felixander wrote:
pistolepete wrote:I guess the ultimate way to do it would be to make molds of them, cast clear resin copies, and then only paint about half of each model to represent it entering/exiting 'stealth mode.' Seems like a lot of work, so I'd probably just try it the way the one is done that Oadie painted.



And illegal =)


Not that I'm a supporter of all things illegal and such, but if you're mostly just playing with friends and not tournaments (and you're not in a GW store), chances are nobody will care (if anything, the opposite). Now, don't go selling your clear resin dudes, because that's crossing a big bold line, but otherwise I see no reason why not for the sake of awesomeness.

As excellent as some of these dioramas are and whatnot, their is no really good way to paint a miniature that way it looks stealthed (Single exception: partially stealthed suits with the electric blue lines, that is an excellent application).

My opinion may get be in trouble, and I apologize, but that's my thought process.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/16 15:57:36


Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in gb
Veteran Knight Baron in a Crusader






UK

Zambro wrote:
oadie wrote:If they're being cloaked with electronic systems, I've seen some pretty cool painted effects, where the model was mostly painted normally, but with a few areas painted to match the basing. The two areas were divided by an "energy wave" sort of effect, as if the optical cloaking field was spreading over the model. Here's another example from the gallery:


That is pretty dam cool. I'd go with that affect


MWG did something similar to this in the Chaos Rejects Stop Motion, I also think its pretty sweet!

   
 
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