Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Basically, recently I have been looking for plastic card and foamboard and yesterday after searching I found some. I have purchased some foamboard to try it out but before I start and I have some questions about both materials. The reason is that this would be my first time using these materials because I have only used cardboard and polystyrene for my terrain projects.

Here are my questions.

1) Which is better for constructing buildings and large-scale terrain pieces?

2) Which is better for creating scratch built titans and conversions?

3) Is there anything that might cause either material to melt, (like polystyrene and spray-paint?

4) What painting techniques work best with either material?

5) What glues create the best bonds with either material?

Thanks for the help. I am still deciding on what too build but I just needed this extra info before I start working on it. Thanks for helping .

1) The one which best replicates the look that you are attempting to create while providing the needed integrity. Sometimes it will be plasticard or foamboard - sometimes it will be rigid polystyrene insulation - sometimes it will be something else. Best answer is based on the specific application.

2) Generally various HIPS materials will be best for conversions - you can glue them directly onto plastic vehicles using a solvent cement. For larger things like titans, you might want to look at expanded PVC sheet and PVC plumbing fittings for the superstructure.

3) Anything that is chemically strong enough will. Chemically speaking, plasicard and the interior of foamboard are the same as the polystyrene insulation you have used. If it can melt the one...it can melt the other with sufficient concentrations. Most often you see problems with the edges of the foam board and the exposed foam their melting.

4) Which ever you prefer. Generally with a larger brush. Again - the physical properties of plasticard are the same as the plastic miniatures from GW and other plastic model kits. The big difference is that you might have a couple square feet to paint as opposed to just a centimeter or two.

5) In general, it depends on what you are gluing together. If you are gluing two sheets of foamboard to each other face to face - PVA glue works fine as you are really gluing paper to paper (be careful though as you can have a large area in the middle which is closed off and never fully cures because of lack of air). If you are gluing two bits of plasticard together solvent cement works best - melts and fuses them together. If you are gluing plasticard to foamboard, generally a CA glue. Add in various other adhesives like urethanes or epoxies based on preference, access and general need.

Which is better for constructing buildings and large-scale terrain pieces?

Generally, Foamcore is thicker and better for doing the general shape of the building, while plasticard is better for the finer details.
If you're doing small buildings, you could do them entirely from plasticard. I've seen an Imperial Bastion made entirely out of card stock and it holds up well. Plasticard would be even better for such things.

Which is better for creating scratch built titans and conversions?

Again, I'd say foamcore for the big parts and plasticard for details, if you want to put fine details into the conversion. As someone said above, some of the structural elements of a titan are better done with plumbing and PVC.

Is there anything that might cause either material to melt, (like polystyrene and spray-paint)?

For Plasticard, anything that would cause plastic models to melt will likely cause plasticard to melt. So, model glues, strong solvent, etc.
For Foamcore, the outside is paper and won't melt, but the inside is still foam. I'd try to avoid spray-paints and acetone (nail polish remover).
There are some spray paints that work well with foam. In the US, Krylon has a line of paints known as "H2O" that are water based. They take longer to dry, but they won't melt foam.

What painting techniques work best with either material?

Personally, I use cheap craft paints for terrain. You'll go broke trying to buy GW paints for anything large.
Otherwise, same techniques as small things. Just make your techniques bigger.

What glues create the best bonds with either material?

For foamcore, you want to use PVA glue (white glue). In the US, Elmer's and Aline's Tacky Glue work well. I'd avoid super-glue because it will melt foam. Plastic cement will also melt foam.
For plasicard, PVA works. Super-glue works well, also. Plastic cement is best for a long-lasting bond, but it may cause a bit of melting/bending where you don't want it.


Another note,
If you're looking for materials for basing your terrain, I'd avoid foamcore. If you glue anything to it (sand/flock), it will warp and curl and it takes a good amount of force to straighten it again. For that, I'd use MDF board.

I use a lot of foam board for my creations. Many times, the cut edge is exposed. If you take some white school glue and and apply it to these exposed sides and let it dry, you can then glue stuff to it or paint it and not worry about it melting.

I've used cereal box card, foamcore & plasticard for various scratchbuilds & conversions over the years.

Example: when building a marauder destroyer I used foamcore for the wings, winglets, canards, tail etc because it's thicker & pretty strong for such rigid, unsupported pieces. However, I built the fuselage out of cereal box card because it can be (easily) scored & folded into the shapes needed then cleaned up with sandpaper & GS. Finally, I used plasticard for detailing & armor plates because it takes paint better than card & it's too expensive to use as a full model unless it's really really thin stuff but then it's too flimsy for my tastes.

Thanks for the answers and tips guys.