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So I've thinned my Vallejo Game Colors to a milky consistency like everyone says to in my airbrush. It's usually about a 1.5:1 Airbrush Medium:Game Color mix to achieve this. Sometimes more Airbrush medium is required.

Anyways, I have my compressor Paasche D3000R and an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. (.35mm) The compressor has a regulator kept at about 15 PSI when I'm doing finer details so I have more control. It's ALWAYS real nice and flowing smooth for the first couple minutes. After a while though, I'll push down to get some air going and pull back to release paint and nothing comes out...just the air. If I pull back to release a lot of ink (like half way or more) then it starts coming out again.

My friend and I are both having this same issue. After pulling back on the trigger all the way to release a lot of ink and spray a lot of ink through the nozzle for a second or two it "corrects" the problem and I can spray at lower air lower paint again. But after a couple minutes the issue starts all over again. I keep having to pull back all the way to jet out a lot of ink and air pressure.

I'm not sure whats causing this and I really want to get this resolved. I'm not controlled or good enough to use the airbrush at high pressures all the time...and if I wanted to do that I would not have bought a more expensive dual-action airbrush...Anyone know what's going on? Why does my airbrush sometimes not push any paint out if I don't pull back on the trigger real far back?

Is your paint pot gravity feed or is it pressurized?..by the way you describe it it is pressurized. You need to make an escape hole for the pressure. I used to use an HVLP lacquer gun and the same thing would happen to me. I punched a hole in the top of my paint pot and never had a problem again. give it a shot!

I'm only new to airbrushing but I had terrible problems with this too. I finally put it down to paint consistency and having the paint "gunge up" in the nozzle. Eventually I got tired of stripping and cleaning the thing every 5 minutes, and got tired of struggling to find a consistency that worked. Last week I got some paint from Vallejo's model air range and I have to say, it's 100 times better. Didn't have any problems at all.

Obviously the range is smaller than the game colour range. I'm lucky that I'm just starting my army, so I just altered my colour scheme slightly to suit the paint range. I didn't have to try match models already painted.

Don't know if this is any use to you, loads of people seem able to manage paint consistency without any bother. I was having a really hard time so swapped to the model air range and am really happy with it.

Gravity feed airbrush :/


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 alanmckenzie wrote:
I'm only new to airbrushing but I had terrible problems with this too. I finally put it down to paint consistency and having the paint "gunge up" in the nozzle. Eventually I got tired of stripping and cleaning the thing every 5 minutes, and got tired of struggling to find a consistency that worked. Last week I got some paint from Vallejo's model air range and I have to say, it's 100 times better. Didn't have any problems at all.

Obviously the range is smaller than the game colour range. I'm lucky that I'm just starting my army, so I just altered my colour scheme slightly to suit the paint range. I didn't have to try match models already painted.

Don't know if this is any use to you, loads of people seem able to manage paint consistency without any bother. I was having a really hard time so swapped to the model air range and am really happy with it.

Man...I have SO MANY game colour paints already :( This is going to suck if this is really the issue... where do you get your paints by the way?

Hey Syypher,

I understand you frustration and curiosity regarding this issue as I have the exact same airbrush and, occasionally, I have the same problem.

There are number of reasons behind your airbrush clogging issues.

1) Your paint is still too thick.
2) Your air pressure is too low to push all the paint through so it's drying on the needle tip and thus clogging.
3) Your airbrush wasn't cleaned thoroughly enough and it's obstructed.
4) The paint had some impurities which are clogging up the nozzle.

Your possible solution then is to:

1) Dilute your paint a bit more.
2) Thin your paint with Windex. It's a great flow aid.
3) Change paint
4) paint with a higher pressure.
5) Prior to painting, remove any dried up pigments by running your paint through a filter, built from nylon stockings stretched over the bottom end of funnel.

Or do what I do if you absolutely need to paint at a low pressure because you're painting tiny details like Termagant head armour plates:

6) Keep doing what you're doing, namely, blow out the clog every once in a while as you work.

Just make sure you don't blow out the clog on your model.

One last tip. I keep a supply of q-tips and rubbing alcohol close at hand so I can clean out the needle tip and the interior of the nozzle. During marathon sessions with one colour, no matter how well you dilute the paint, the airbrush is bound to get clogged regardless. The alcohol dipped q-tip helps to keep things flowing.

Hope this helps.

no no no, Vallejo Air paint is thin enough as it is, I don't think thinning of the paint is the issue. You are probably getting clogging at the needle in front of the color cup, or in the tip/regulator. A good test is to load up some wash/ink/glaze into the AB, turn the pressure down to 10-15 PSI, and hold the AB tip close to your work (like millimeters from the surface)- use a peice of paper, if it splatters-you are using too much pressure or it's clogged. If it does not spray straight, your needle is bent, if no wash comes out, just air, then you've got dried paint or crud in the spray regulator/tip. If your AB is a Badger, I can tell you exactly how to dissasemble it and clean it to clear that up for you.

syypher wrote:

Man...I have SO MANY game colour paints already :( This is going to suck if this is really the issue... where do you get your paints by the way?

I got Model Air paints mail order from Firestorm which is UK based but I'm sure there must be a US based supplier somewhere.

And you can totally airbrush with the game colour range, it's just a matter of finding and maintaining the correct consistency. I just couldn't be bothered with all the messing about. I bought the airbrush to save time and found with all the constant cleaning out and thinning and mixing, it was just taking ages and was a bit of a pain. I took the easy option but, like I say, I was in a position to.

Obviously there's no saying that consistency is your issue here but it certainly sounds similar to my own problems.

Your problem is simple: your air pressure is too low and your paint is too thick and paint is drying in the nozzle.

10-15 psi is relatively low for your standard use, so try something a little closer to 20 psi for general use. If you drop any lower than 18 psi, your paint needs to be pretty thin in order to flow nicely.

Some other things: Do not thin with Windex. It is a bad practice and I don't understand why people still promote the practice. Seriously, don't do it... For one, it tints your paint blue with is a good enough reason not to do it. Second, it can promote corrosion on your airbrush interior. Do the right thing; buy a thinner/medium that is specifically designed for airbrushing.

Vallejo Model Air should still be thinned. Yes, I know that it is "designed for use straight out of the bottle" but it can still benefit from slight thinning. You don't have to thin it as much as say, Game or Model Color, but you should get in the habit of doing it. They will go on so much smoother.

With a gravity feed, 18-20 PSI is too much, gravity feed allows you to use lower pressures. Siphon-feed ABs require more pressure.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
You can airbrush ANY paint, even GW foundation paints, given that they are thinned enough. Brand of paint is irrelevant.

 dsteingass wrote:
With a gravity feed, 18-20 PSI is too much, gravity feed allows you to use lower pressures. Siphon-feed ABs require more pressure.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
You can airbrush ANY paint, even GW foundation paints, given that they are thinned enough. Brand of paint is irrelevant.

Incorrect, 18-20 psi is nowhere near too much for a gravity feed brush and is a perfectly acceptable pressure range for general purpose work. Gravity feed brushes can operate on 10-15 psi, true, but that doesn't mean they can only operate at that range. Siphon feed brushes work on pressures around 35 psi and will generally run into difficulties under 30 psi.

This is a good range of pressures and the work that can be done with them:
25-30 psi - primer and varnishing
18-20 psi - general purpose work
10-15 psi - detail work and OSL (very thin paint)

That completely depends on your needle size and airbrush. He said he was using a0.35mm tip and needle.

Low pressure for thinned paints should be fine. I spray with 8-10 psi, at times. Also, as previously stated, your paints are also fine...

With a .35mm needle, you're bound to clog up. Actually, any size needle will eventually clog up but it's much quicker with a fine needle...

Try using a needle lubricant like Badger's Needle Juice (Chicago Airbrush Link). Just fully clean your airbrush (this should happen after every use anyways), remove the needle and spread a drop of this stuff on the last inch of the needle tip - wipe off most of it as you only need a VERY thin layer. Too much juice and you'll clog up the airbrush all the same. This stuff has increased my MTBF while painting by 3X, at least. I also keep a little cup of windex / water (1:5 ish) near by and a cleaning brush to dip in and clean off the tip if you get too much paint there. That, with the juice should keep you painting much longer.

And on the windex thinner topic... I've used it with whites and had no ill effect. We're talking a VERY small amount here. My airbrush ratio with Vallejo White Foundation is something like 1:2:5:10 (Windex: Medium: Paint: Water). The only thing you need to watch out for is the amonia corroding rubber seals, nothing more. Rubber seals are also cheap, well... maybe not for iwata but for my Paasche they're a dime a dozen. Also, most of the time these aren't even touching paint.

Hope this helps.

There is absolutely no problem with using Windex as a thinner, I used it initially with all white and have never had even the closest of blue tinting when I airbrushed. Personally, I've switched over to Golden Airbrush Medium because it's easier to work with and gets a consistency right easier without being too watery with Windex.

The clogging is like everyone says, the pressure is too low and acrylics can easily and quickly dry and clog up the airbrush. One tip I found useful is to hold the airbrush nozzle pushed into your hand and then spray (slowly), the backspray will push back into the cup which can sometimes help dislodge gunk. Otherwise, alway clean up the airbrush after every use, if you don't have a sonic cleaner, it's definitely an awesome investment. I just got one last week and after I tossed in my airbrush, the thing was working like brand new.

Definitely keep the pressure at least 20psi, get some sort of needle lubricant, and thin the paints a bit more if clogging happens too frequently.

Ok so from what I'm getting from all this is that because my need is quite fine at .35mm, I need to thin more than I am and use a higher PSI and possible some need lube.

I will try higher PSI and thinning more when I get home. I currently use Airbrush Medium for my thinning agent but I'll try using a mix with Windex as well. I've read a pretty lengthy article before though that Airbrush Medium is best to use if at all possible. Not that Windex is bad, not at all. Just that it would be preferred if you have some on hand, which I do.

Thing is it might just be the PSI...I'm hoping...Reason being is that I already thing to drastic amounts. I've even thinned to almost water consistency before just to test if my thinning was the issue.

If I have a cotton swab with alcohol and I want to "quick clense" my brush during my long base coating processes do I just dab the tip of my airbrush? Or do I remove the tip cap part and clean it inside and the needle?

syypher wrote:If I have a cotton swab with alcohol and I want to "quick clense" my brush during my long base coating processes do I just dab the tip of my airbrush? Or do I remove the tip cap part and clean it inside and the needle?

So I use a little airbrush cleaning brush like this one:

With this, I just dip the brush in my cleaning solution and brush off the tip without removing anything... you need to do this carefully to avoid damaging the needle though. If that doesn't work I start disassembling.

I use Windex for in-between color cleanings, then I use proper AB cleaner for the last cleaning of the night. I have used Windex for cleaning for years without any corrosion whatsoever. I've never used it for thinning. Testor's universal Acrylic thinner is my go-to for thinning/mixing in-the-color cup. I use a Badger Patriot 105 for all general purpose painting (bigger needle/nozzle) then I switch to my Renegade Krome with it's .25mm needle/nozzle for fine detail work.

Vallejo Metallics just WILL NOT go through the superfine .25mm nozzle, it just clots up on me. I have to switch to the Patriot in order to use the metallics.

For paint buildup on the tip of the needle with my airbrush, I dip a q-tip in thinner (rubbing alcohol works for most acrylics), then gently push it against the tip of the airbrush so the needle is pushed into the cotton tip of the q-tip, then twist the q-tip. It gently cleans the paint off the tip of the needle where it has accumulated over time. I usually do this every 5-10 minutes of spraying. Its not a big deal as it only takes a couple seconds, so long as your q-tip is still moistened with thinner (rubbing alcohol evaporates quickly at room temperature).

You may also have a bit of paint built up inside the needle cap, this is the removable peice at the front of the airbrush that the needle passes through before the paint mixes with air. Every time I clean my brush I remove this part and drop it in a small pool of thinner in my painting palette. When its time to clean this part, I take a small piece of paper tower, twist it into a a small thread, small enough to fit into the needle cap. I dip the paper towel in thinner, insert it into the needle cap and twist it 2-3 times. Upon removing the paper towel, inspect it. If there is visible paint on it, repeat the process. If there is no paint visible, its clean.

Once I'm done cleaning it and have reassembled it, I always make sure to spray a little bit of water or rubbing alcohol through the airbrush before putting it away. I also do this before I start airbrushing, just to make sure the spray is unobstructed.

Just remember, a clean airbrush is a happy airbrush.

Yes, you really just have to get into the habit of always cleaning it. It's a lot like breaking down a rifle, the more you do it, the quicker you get at it, or any other repetitive task. I've found the only thing the Citadel stippling brush is good for is cleaning the nozzle like nowlan does with a q-tip. It's really good at that job, since it is so stiff-bristled.

dark gear's advice (and many of the others) is spot on.

Basically either lumps in the paint, or dried clumps on the brush tip.

Also, to those who keep saying "airbrush paints still need to be thinned" he is NOT using arirbush paints....he is using some of the vallejo other lines.

I use either alcohol or golden brand arirbush medium.
Some flow aid may help as well.

Best of luck.

I had a similar problem last night when spraying some Valljo air dk Grey Primer


These little bottle brushes I found are really good and reaming the build-up paint.

Wow you guys are awesome! I will be airbrushing tomorrow so let's hope that this fixes my issue! I really want to airbrush and save time and just not be frustrated

 Nowoo wrote:

So I use a little airbrush cleaning brush like this one:

never use these!
if you dmg one of the seals your aribrush it will leak air or paint and you can really ruin your airbrush with it!
check out this video instead

Oh no, you don't get near the seal with them, in fact, with the Patriot 105, the seals and gaskets are hermetically sealed, and not user-replaceable at all, so it's just to clear the gunk build-up where the nozzle fits through the tip housing (I'm not sure of the actual part names, hopefully you know what I mean) see my first pic above- that's all I use the bottle brush for.

Ok guys so far so good! I tried doing more thinning my paints more and I also added 1-2 drops of flow-aid. My paint flow was constant.

Near the end I started rushing a bit with my painting but and didn't really thin as much and I didn't put flow-aid and the problem came back.

I guess flow-aid and thinning with proper thinners was my issue. I use airbrush medium + flow-aid to thin my Vallejo Game Color paints now. It's almost a 2:1 ratio. It's VERY see-through and extremely thin layers of paint. I have to wait real long for it to dry before I spray another or it starts "pooling" since it is so liquefied.

I'm going to try adding more paint tonight though. I think I might be thinning it a bit TOO much now, but I'm happy to report that it isn't clogging up and splurting inconsistently anymore.



Edit:
I'm also using a higher PSI. I'm using 20-25 now instead of 10-15.

1-2 drops of flow-aid mixed with 20 parts water I hope. You can run into adhesion issues if you mix with pure flow-aid.

For Vallejo, just use water or acrylic medium for thinning. Solvents like alcohol tend to gum up the paint after a while.

Use the Vallejo airbrush cleaner + water (1:2)to clean it all after painting.

Happy to hear everything is working well now and that you're painting smoothly.

In regards to drying time, that's why many people suggest using rubbing alcohol or windex as a thinning agent—it dries faster. Personnally, I use both, although alcohol is my go-to thinner because it works so well with the Tamiya paints. Typically, when I paint, I paint in batches of 10 or more models. By the time I've coated the 5th model, the first one is dry to touch and ready for a second coat.

Just keep experimenting with thinners and mixes and you'll see that it'll become second nature after a short while, to the point that you'll be able to set up your airbrush, your project, pick your colour, eyeball your mix and be spraying in less than 5 minutes.

That being said, if you keep a hair dryer handy you could use that in between coats to speed up the process.

Have any progress pics yet?

 Dark_Gear wrote:
Happy to hear everything is working well now and that you're painting smoothly.

In regards to drying time, that's why many people suggest using rubbing alcohol or windex as a thinning agent—it dries faster. Personnally, I use both, although alcohol is my go-to thinner because it works so well with the Tamiya paints. Typically, when I paint, I paint in batches of 10 or more models. By the time I've coated the 5th model, the first one is dry to touch and ready for a second coat.

Just keep experimenting with thinners and mixes and you'll see that it'll become second nature after a short while, to the point that you'll be able to set up your airbrush, your project, pick your colour, eyeball your mix and be spraying in less than 5 minutes.

That being said, if you keep a hair dryer handy you could use that in between coats to speed up the process.

Have any progress pics yet?

I really appreciate everyones help. I got through my first GKSS trying out some new airbrush technique and not 1 hiccup! Everything went smooth and I controlled the thinning with a little less thinner and it didn't go on like "water" like it did when I went TOO thinned. It was all pretty good Here is my first try with the airbrush on an infantry model.

Im maybe a bit late to the party but Im also new to airbrushing and here are some things that helped me with some of the issues you are having.

- I use a higher pressure ie 30 psi to apply the primer.

- to mix your paint, I put in a drop or two of thinning agent into the cup first (I use windex), then the drops of paint and then more thinning agent. Everything is stirred with a wet brush.

- when you finish with the color or are done for the day and you dont want to give the airbrush a thorough clean, put in a few drops of thinner or cleaner into the cup and leave it so it does not dry out

- if your consistancy is thin but the paint does not come out when until you pull back all of the way, you probably dont have the "piston" behind the spring and before the locking nut threaded in all of the way

- bubbles in the cup means that your needle guide brass nipple thingy is not seated correctly under the front cap

- spitting paint = dirty tip. Clean with a cotton swab dipped in thinner or cleaner.

- wipe the needle down from back to tip in one motion and not back and forth. The tip bends or hooks easily if you snag it on a towel.

Hope that helps. Im still learning but have no regrets about dropping the money.

Buy extra needles/nozzles too, you WILL bend them eventually, especially with the finer ones. Nothing is more disheartening when it happens. I'm glad you are up and going, the Marine looks Ace!

Tip dry, or blocked nozzle seems a likely culprit.
Tip dry will always happen, especially with acrylics. Its a bit of a hazzard of the profession. I like to use the removable needle guards edge to carefully remove the tip dry as and when it is causing issues.
For a nozzle blockage, you will need to clean out the airbrush and especially the tip. It couldve been caused by thick paint, lumpy paint, or inadequate cleaning last time around.
Nozzle reamers can be useful, My prefered way of cleaning my nozzle is with an old paintbrush with long enough bristles, and some acetone (ipa would be my next choice). I use a wrecked size 2 rigger brush as the bristles easily reach through the entire nozzle, and its already a ruined brush so I totally dont mind splitting the bristles to get the number that fits through the end of the nozzle.