Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

It seems too good to be true, this base and dip method. I would love to get a BA army going, and if this base and dip technique comes out half as good as it looks I might bite. I don't mind going over each marine for detailing and hi-liting etc., but I just abhor basecoating...so so tedious. The true joy for me is in the details and polishing off a mini to above "table standard". Will any fellow Dakkalites vouch for this method (especially the Army Painter Red or this new Dragon Red), or will I be wasting my time and possibly mangling a few unfortunate minis in the process? Army Painter certainly isn't cheap, but if the results are somewhat fast I'd consider.....

I've been using the Army Painter Dragon Red Primer for my Flesh Tearers. It's bright when it's first sprayed on, but the Dark Tone Shade brings it down quite a bit. If you want to do true BA's, I recommend the True Red with the Medium Tone Shade. Make sure you shake up the spray can for at least 1 minute (2 is better) and follow the directions to the letter. Temperature over 50 degrees fahrenheit and spray at a distance of about 10 inches/25cm. Several thin coats will do you far better than trying one thick coat. When you use their tone shades, give it 4 days to dry solid before you spray on the flat coat/shine reducer.

Yes it is as good as it seems, I used it to paint a lot of my blood angels, the dragon red is a darker red than pure red, so I preffered that. Spray the base coat red, paint the details, dip. The spray with a matt coat as it comes out varnished from the dip. Also it some times to paint the dip on like a wash rather than dip it. When I get on my laptop I'll post you some tutorials that helped me.

I've heard that a power drill with a DIY chuck works well for getting excess quickshade off a model.

I've never used the complete system but the platemail spray saved me a ton of time when doing my Grey Knights.

Don't buy their quick shades. If you're intent on dipping (eww) go to michaels or Home Depot ant get some minwax for 1/5 the cost.

Hey thanks for the fast responses....so far it looks like Dakka recommends! My biggest fear isn't with the Red sprays (but thank you all for recommending the Red over Dragon Red), but the dip process. It just looks a little goopey, and was afraid that would plug up details. Follow up questions, for models post dip and anti shine, how easy are they to touch up or recolor? E.g. an un-helmeted Marine or an ornate bolter that won't need the shades (I do suppose for unhelmeted Marine heads should be painted separately and attached later).


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 cincydooley wrote:
Don't buy their quick shades. If you're intent on dipping (eww) go to michaels or Home Depot ant get some minwax for 1/5 the cost.

Minwax? Seriously? That stuff looks scary thick!

I can't speak for the dips, but every other Army Painter product I've used has been excellent.

I use the quick shade dip on all of my stuff. Rather than dip, brush it on. When brushed, you have much more control of where its going and how much over a standard wash. As its thicker, I can move it around on the model easier and it seems to give a more consistant filter over the entire surface rather than ending up blochty and changing the color underneath by too much. Spray with Testors Dulcoat the next day and you are good to go.

I'm not sure why the dip method is frowned upon especially when brushed on. In my experience, its not much different than slathering on heaps of Devlan Mud of the new GW name for it. I consider it a tool just like any other. I also use an airbrush, oil washes, weathering powders, and inks.

In addition to the quick shade (I use strong tone), I have used their primer which is much more difficult to strip than vallejo which could be interpreted as better for durability.

This camo marine was part of a 2000pt army I did in a week dipping with Minwax polyshades Antique Walnut. I've tried others only the Antique Walnut works right.

Anyway brush on for best control. Or dip, flick a lot, set for 5 minutes come back with a cheap junk brush and remove any large pools of dip.
Base, spray with matte. You can still go back and paint extra highlights, etc.

You can also buy the Army painter washes, which replicate their dips. I absolutely love them.

If saving cash is an issue, buy flow enhancer (from an art shop) and the following artists inks: india black, paynes grey, and sepia. add a little enhancer to water, add ink, and you have a wonderful, dirt cheap, high volume wash. Inks on their own will tend to coat a model, but the flow enhancer makes it flow into the crevices. Black is for, well, a hard black wash. Paynes grey is covered very well in this great article:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/The_Secret_Ingredient:_Paynes_Grey_%28by_Iffy%29

Sepia, of course, is great for washing flesh.

For those in the know, this is little more than a simple version of Les's magic wash. I find that matte medium doesn't add much, and always left a chalky residue. I'm probably doing it wrong, but here's the link:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/261541.page

I've never tried "the dip," but I'm not sure what it accomplishes (aside from protection against dings) that a big brush and a bucket of wash couldn't.

1.) Quickshade gives a quick structuring and shading of your miniature, similar but not identical to using shades or washes.
2.) It dries with a glossy finish, so you have to use a matte varnish after that. Vallejo Matte Varnish works, Army Painter Matte Varnish surprisngly not or not always (solvent reacts with Quickshade).
3.) It is not water based, so you need different brushes, brush cleaner chemicals etc.
4.) Dipping is a messy business, as after dipping you need to literally shake off the excess of Quickshade, so not quite possible in your living room. Applying Quickshade with a brush avoids that and, as said, gives you better control. Shaking is also not possible with some miniatures, e.g. winged monsters, where the wings would likely come off in the process.

Personally, I prefer using shades (also available in non-brown colours), but I know people who get good results with Quickshade.
And AFAIK, originally Quickshade was just wood stain relabled.

It matters what you consider "tabletop". To some it's not, to others it is. I'd rather put 10mins of time into it and use an oilwash instead with a cleanup. each to there own I suppose.

For all of my dnd minis i painted i used the dip technique using minwax woodstain . It did a good job. Looks good on the table. Your not gna win any golden demons but its quick and easy. Plus you will be damn sure your paint will never chip. You do need to spray it with a matt ifinish.

If you're worried about it being too thick, the Quickshades/Minwax can be thinned with turpentine.