Switch Theme:

Trouble with white paint smoothness?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Corporal





Kentucky, U.S.A.

Alright, so, I'm a pretty experienced painter, having been painting figures of many different sizes for years. I used to use GW paints pretty exclusively, but I've since switched to Vallejo Game Color. However, I'm running into some problems, and I'm not quite sure of the cause. As you can see in the photo, I've been painting the white of a DA exarch helmet, over a base of grey. However, the white is turning out really streaky, with obvious brushstrokes (you can see it in the photo). It's creating a really unpleasant texture and unevenness to a helmet that I'm trying to make look really smooth! Is this a problem with my brush, or my strokes? Or am I doing something with the paint? I'd like to fix this, I've tried painting it with GW white as well and had the same problem. I've never really had to paint areas this large of pure white.

1400 pts Canadian Armoured Squadron/Rifle Company FoW

1500 pts Imperial Guard
1250 pts Space Wolves
600 pts Alaitoc Eldar 
   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

I use the GW white and i had the same problems. A way to improve is to water down the white and apply many thin layers. On top of that you can use the watered white to leave some transition from grey to white as additional shadow details.



   
Made in nl
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot






You probably need to thin (more) and apply several light layers

3000p
2000p
7500p 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Flow aid (or dish soap) and a drying retarder. It's annoying to wait for, but it seems to work out better in the end.

DS:80+SGMB--I+Pw40k12#+D++A+/wWD-R++T(D)DM+

2013 W/L/D Ratio:
Dark Angels (3/12/2)
Malifaux (1/3/0)

JWhex wrote:
Some of you guys need to go a through bad girlfriend or two and gain some perspective on things.
 
   
Made in us
Corporal





Kentucky, U.S.A.

I added a bit of water to the mix (I haven't done that with whites, usually) and it worked like a charm. Took two coats, but, turned out beautifully smooth. Thanks!

1400 pts Canadian Armoured Squadron/Rifle Company FoW

1500 pts Imperial Guard
1250 pts Space Wolves
600 pts Alaitoc Eldar 
   
Made in gb
Steady Space Marine Vet Sergeant





United Kingdom

For my IG's snow camo I use GW's basecoat Celestra Grey, followed by VGC's Ghost Grey. I thin both of these with water and do two layers of each - over black primer - and the finish is alot smoother than what i see in your picture. And despite it being grey, it looks so close to white you wont tell the difference untill you put white next to it.

Generally, when painting white, it's better to paint to a 'bright grey' and not white. To get a solid white - that looks smooth - would take forever on a full unit, let alone army.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/04/02 17:07:02


   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





I don’t bother with multiple thin layers of white. Often I just ended up with a splotchy uneven color.

I recommend painting with a progression of lighter and lighter greys and then highlight it with a pure white. I use gw’s celestra grey, ulthuan gray, with white scar high lights. The paint still needs to be wet enough to flow.

Good luck.
   
Made in us
Freaky Flayed One




Juneau, AK

I've had similar problems with Reaper's Dragon White lately. Although, since my IG use a white-based snow camo theme, I usually just spray paint all the parts white while they're still on the sprue, with the exception of the tracks. Then I paint over the white as needed.

 MrMoustaffa wrote:

Remember kids, LRBT's are like cheap beer. One is crap, 3 is ok, and every one you get after that is better than the last.

~ Shai'ghool Dynasty, 3500 points
~ Zerathian 401st Mechanized, 7000 points
~ Raven Guard, 3000 points
~ Warriors of Chaos, 2500 points 
   
Made in us
Corporal





Kentucky, U.S.A.

I'm using coats of VGC Stonewall Grey followed by light coats of pure white, the pic above was with my original method. I'll try to get a photo of what the new method looks like. Much smoother.

1400 pts Canadian Armoured Squadron/Rifle Company FoW

1500 pts Imperial Guard
1250 pts Space Wolves
600 pts Alaitoc Eldar 
   
Made in us
Noise Marine Terminator with Sonic Blaster





Lincolnton, N.C.

Honestly Vallejo is gak. I've bought 4 colors from them and they all cover like water, or chaulk up. I've used Wally World paints to much better effect.

My beloved 40K armies:
Children of Stirba
Order of Saint Pan Thera


DA:80S++G+M++B++IPw40K(3)00/re-D+++A++/eWD233R---T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in gr
Crazed Savage Orc





Germany

Large white areas are pretty time consuming from my experience. Warmashine Cygnar stuff comes to mind. When I paint larger areas of white I water down the white to the point were it doesnt cover anymore and goin with 10+ layers to finally get a smooth and covered area. White is just not the colour you want to paint large areas with but if you "have to" and want a pure white finish go with many layers. Once finished it's awesome looking.

Boss, Raglun´z mob ´az redda trouserz dan uz!
Too bad, da mob got stinky about ...
Dakka Gallery 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





 KingmanHighborn wrote:
Honestly Vallejo is gak. I've bought 4 colors from them and they all cover like water, or chaulk up. I've used Wally World paints to much better effect.


Different strokes for different folks, but most of the professional painters (professional enough to pay their bills with it) on CMON and elsewhere include Vallejo in their recommend brands.

DS:80+SGMB--I+Pw40k12#+D++A+/wWD-R++T(D)DM+

2013 W/L/D Ratio:
Dark Angels (3/12/2)
Malifaux (1/3/0)

JWhex wrote:
Some of you guys need to go a through bad girlfriend or two and gain some perspective on things.
 
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

Prime white. Not gray. Especially for brightly colored models like eldar. Otherwise, prime in the lightest block color on the model.
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

Out of all of the VGC I've used, I've only ever had the problem described with white, as you have. It was, right out of the bottle, chalky, clumpy, and thick. I pulled out the dropper tip, stuck in a toothpick, and have it a good stir. I then added some premixed flo-aid and again stirred well. After that it works fine.


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in nz
Fresh-Faced New User





I painted my C:SM army a white and gold look and after ruining about 5 marines in trying different techniques, I found the only way to get a nice clean finish was to undercoat skull white, go over with badab black and then 1 or 2 layers of skull white again, I would also sometimes go over darker spots with bleached bone then skull white.
I heard of lot of people recommending to build up from white from various grays and would REALLY love to see it actually done because it looked terrible in every attempt I made.

"A mind without purpose, will wander in dark places" 
   
Made in gb
Sneaky Kommando






I find army painter spray white gives a lovely sheen, almost as if the plastic is coloured rather than painted.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: