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I've used his plans before (including that Warhound, although I've yet to finish one...) - generally, I find them to be quite good. One thing to bear in mind, though, is that they're intended for paper, a material that folds easily and has negligible thickness. If cutting and folding the shapes as they appear in the plans, ONLY paper will maintain the proper proportions. Thicker cardstock, cardboard, etc. won't end up meeting perfectly at the seams, as the material thickness adds tiny bits of extra length, here and there, as it's bent into shape.
If you want to build something a bit more durable and easier to detail, you'll want to use plasticard (sheet polystyrene), instead. With this, the discrepancy in material thickness becomes even more pronounced. You'll need to subdivide each part into its various faces, when cutting things out, after which you should lay all of the parts out and start planning. To maintain proper dimensions, you'll have to cut down some parts (by the thickness of the sheet), but not others. If making a closed cylinder to exact dimensions, for example, you would either have to shrink the radius of the caps by the wall's thickness to have them sit inside the tube, flush with its ends, or shorten the tube by the caps' collective thickness, leaving them to fully cover the ends. A bit of foresight and dry-fitting here will make things run much more smoothly, in the end.
More generally, I recommend building all of the major sub-sections, then assemble from the bottom up. Leave fiddly bits and pieces that bridge gaps (pistons, etc.) for last. Decide how much detailing you want to do before you put everything together - not only is it easier to apply things like trim before final assembly, some places will become nigh inaccessible (good luck fleshing out a cockpit after gluing on the hollow head!). Also, if you want flexibility in the weapon loadout, consider how you're going to attach the weapons. I magnetized mine, using short lengths of PVC pipe for the mounts (magnets inside the shoulder-side tube, washers on the weapons), but that required beefing up the surrounding area to take the weight.
Finally, regarding materials, what do you plan to use? For stiff card, cereal packets are as good or better than purchased chipboard, in my opinion. Matboard or thicker illustration boards are better, but the cost isn't really any lower than using styrene. Plastic "for sale" signs and the like are cheaper sources of styrene sheet, but the quality is lower (more flexible, half is covered in paint) and the thickness less controllable than buying directly from plastic suppliers or hobby companies. Packs of sheet, tube, and rod from Plastruct or Evergreen are probably your best bet. Their websites should have lists of brick and mortar stores that carry their products, if you think you can get to a hobby or model train store. If not, there are plenty of sellers online.
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Then we'll have a better chance of helping you. Also there might be more people interested in it. (I wanted to build my own titan for a long time.)
