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Made in us
[DCM]
Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

These are work in progress shots of my Cities of Death terrain. I did a lot of visual research before I got started, using google image search and searching topics like "war damage" "War torn" "bomb damage" or any city's name that I might learn about in the news that I know is or has been touched by war - like Stalingrad, Aleppo, Mostar, etc. A word of warning on this, though. This research is not for the faint of heart. A lot of these searches will turn up very graphic pictures of civilian casualties. To avoid that, stick to searches that focus on World War 1 and World War 2, as those photos will have been censored to exclude atrocities.

My research has shown me that buildings affected by bombs and conventional warfare (like tank fire, heavy machine guns, rockets, etc.) mostly collapse into piles of broken debris a lot shorter than the buildings once were. It astounds me that a 5 story building will compact into an 8 foot tall hill of ruin. Larger buildings obviously create larger piles and one can imply that a building was enormous simply by building a gigantic pile of rubble. But this creates a quandry for my sensibilities, because wargaming terrain needs to be played on. While a human being can adjust their footing to stand on an irregular surface, our little miniatures have flat, wide bases. So I have to compromise my desire to create realistic, accurate reproductions of devastated buildings and the need to have wargame terrain I can actually play on.

This is the first of my ruins. It was once an Administratum building that likely held records and cabinets and dozens, if not hundreds, of personnel. I wanted to build a "city" that was not only bombed, but also subsequently fought over - thus bullet holes in the walls and shell holes (craters) in the rubble. This WIP shot is good because it shows the first few layers of build up on the rubble. I've glued down irregular shapes of styrofoam (in this case some pink foam I bought at a home depot for relatively cheap - 15' long x 2' wide x 1" thick for about $15 USD). On top of this foam I glued a mix of fine and slightly less fine sand. This is the base to cover up the seams of the foam and to begin to create depth in the rubble.




I've also heavily distressed the walls of this structure using a pin vice (a tiny, hand-held, manual drill), a dremle (a sanding and drilling tool), and a good old hobby knife (or exacto blade, whichever was handy at the time). Even sections of the walls that were already distressed right out of the box - GW makes the ruins I used and they come with molded damage on them. I modified these for 2 basic reasons. 1.) Some of the pieces were not damaged enough for the piece I was making, and 2.) I can't leave well-enough alone. I have to modify everything I touch. My whole ork army is converted. There's barely a single model in it that's built straight out of the box without any modification. So for this piece I tried to create some uniqueness in it by modifying the pieces to suit my aesthetic.





Here you can get an idea of the scale of this piece.




Thanks for looking! I appreciate any feedback.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2013/11/15 23:54:54


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Waaazag da Kan't Stoppable (ORKS) ~6,000 points
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Legendary Master of the Chapter






Everyone loves a good war torn city.

I feel like the piece could use some ladders or addition steps and bigger units wont be able to use it properly (hard to stay within coherency when the steps are 6" apart.

I think another way to represent caved in buildings with ruins on the floor is to do a faux basement , to make it look like the majority of the upper floors is now burred beneath. FFT

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

This is the second building. More of an "outbuilding" or a filing house for storing records. It's a good example to show how I layer on the rubble. The inside is pretty well done, but the outside of the piece still shows as yet uncoated foam chunks. I used a variety of debris including pieces of the terrain itself, whittled down and glued into the foam at odd angles. Devastated buildings blow up in crazy ways and in some cases they're turned to dust and in some cases recognizable chunks can still be found scattered in the ruins. It's utterly unpredictable what survives a blast and what does not. Sometimes intricate details at the very heart of the cataclysm survive unscathed. I try to keep this in mind when I layer debris. When I paint this piece later I'll use random splotches of color to pick out the remains of mosaics, rugs, and other colorful details scattered throughout the dust and ash of the ruin.






I use a mix of aquarium gravel, Pegasus Hobbies' small grey bricks, craft sand, Woodland Scenics' coarse sand, and the miscellaneous detritus left over from all my clipping, grinding, and building for the rubble on my buildings. I usually put down a layer of craft and coarse sand first, then a layer of aquarium gravel and debris, then a layer of bricks and more gravel. Each layer is glued down with Elmer's Glue All, and when that dries, I seal it with a 50/50 mix of more Elmer's glue and water.



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New York City

This piece shows the second layer of rubble. It's also a large footprint building that's been reduced to a pile of slag and likely blasted again. What's left of the wall shows a rocket impact that still needs more shrapnel damage to the exterior of the wall. I've glued down some rough, angular aquarium gravel that has yet to get a sealing layer of elmer's/water to keep it in place. On top of this layer will be glued various tangled metal bits that I have yet to construct and then on top of that will go more rubble mixed with some small bricks.














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Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






Near Boston

Looking pretty good. I would reccommend a different basing texture material. What you have will look decent as rubble, but as "normal" ground cover it is far too coarse.

Playground type sand has a nice mix of grain sizes to look very much like "Dirt" at scale for 40k.

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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

Here is the last of the Administratum buildings that I am currently working on. There's another one in the works, but that one is 9 stories tall and since it was in storage for awhile it broke into 3 sections. So I have to repair it before taking any pictures of it.

Anyway, this piece is the most conplete and is actually just waiting for me to prime it so I can paint it.



I made a sidewalk for this one and the other small piece. It's easier to see on this piece. It's made from the WH Fantasy movement tray kits, cut to length and glued in place. It works great seeing as it's already textured and lined like concrete.













Thanks for looking. Feedback appreciated.

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Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Finland... the country next to Sweden? No! That's Norway! Finland is to the east! No! That's Russia!

You should get a group shot going on, so that people can see how the buildings fit together and form the battlefield. Good job on the individual ruins however.
If you want to expand your battlefield, you can check out the newest white dwarf (you don't have to buy it, just ask for your flgs for the store copy) for inspiration.

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No, just Nurgle and Slaanesh, Jesus will be sold seperately in a blister.




 
   
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Generalmajor





Muslpelheim

I like this very much. Well done, and may i say if that you wish for more sources about war torn citites look up Allepo, Damascus and Sarajevo, although i imagien youa re already aware and have looked at these places.
   
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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

@Trondheim: Yes. I'm pretty sure I've seen pictures of every city that's been affected by war since the late 1800s. I've literally looked at thousands of pictures. I've even done research on buildings damaged by earthquakes, fires, mudslides, and floods. The length and breadth of human tragedy is sometimes overwhelming.

Thanks to both of you, Trondheim and sluggaslugga, for your feedback. I'll see what I can do about getting a group shot. I also have to see about getting a WIP shot of my 9 story building. New update soon.

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Great stuff! I like how there's like a spine of the building left only. How do you find using that much basing stuff as a surface to actually play on?

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New York City

A lot of that stuff is either going to fall off or get smoothed over once I seal it on. With the additional layers I have yet to throw on some of these pieces it starts to weigh quite a bit. I try to smooth out any dimples in the construction by filling it with either air-drying clay (a new method I've been using) or finer rubble. If I or my opponent has any wobbly models, though, the rough ground is not their friend.

It's a toss up. I prefer realism to flat ground, but that's just my personal preference. The stuff I sell has more level rubble piles.

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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

So this update is not really "city related", but it is stuff I've been building and I didn't think it would be proper to just start a whole new thread just to showcase more in-progress stuff, irregardless of its flavor.

So, this is a basic how-to for the first 4 steps of my jungle bases. I'm in the process of making about 200 of these at the moment.

Step 1: visit your local arts and crafts store (to buy some wooden shapes. I use circles, ovals, hearts, and balloons) and then your local coffee shop (to take more straws than you need for your iced beverage. I usually take about 10. These places get their straws wholesale in boxes of 100 that cost them something like 15 cents. Just don't make a habit of taking 100 straws a day and they shouldn't give you a problem with taking a bunch). You'll also need a hotglue gun and some sticks (I use a high temperature mini-gun). Cut those straws into 1/2 inch lengths with a scissor, and plug in your hotglue gun. Once the glue is hot (i.e. melted and pliable) put 4-6 dabs on your wooden shape in a random pattern and stick your straw pieces to the base. Put it aside and give the hot glue a chance to dry and the glue gun a chance to heat up more of your plastic rods (its hotglue ammo).





Step 2: Begin using the hotglue gun to encircle your straws with layers of, well, hotglue. The hotter the hotglue, the more liquidy it flows. By varying the viscosity you can control, to a degree at least, how the hotglue drapes over the straw. Continue looping hotglue until all of the straw is covered except the opening at the top. If any hotglue gets in the hole you can scoop it out with a stick while it's still melty (I use a lollipop stick) or once it dries you can carve it out with a hobby knife (I use a hobby...knife).





Step 3: Again using that trusty hotglue gun, draw irregular lines of hotglue from the bases of the straws towards the edge of your wooden base. Wiggle the gun as you go to create organic shapes. You can also wait for the hotglue to dry and then go over it again so that the "roots" overlap.





Inevitably all manner of detritus ends up getting stuck to or inside your creations. Don't fight this phenomena, run with it.

Step 4: Once all the hot glue is dry/cooled to the touch (because hotglue isn't actually glue but rods of low-temperature-melt plastic that can non-the-less burn my pinky, finger tips, insert-body-part-I've-burned-on-this-in-the-past-few-days here) take a throw-away paintbrush and coat the whole piece with an acrylic texturing gel (I use Windsor and Newton Galeria Sand Texture Gel, but you can use whatever suits your fancy). Really put it on thick enough to fill in the crevasses that are the inevitable result of layering hotglue over straw bits.





Step 5 and 6...and 7 to come...stay tuned!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/08/06 02:33:16


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Humming Great Unclean One of Nurgle






Mostly, on my phone.

Oooh, now this looks exciting!

Theophony"... and there's strippers in terminator armor and lovecraftian shenanigans afoot."
Solar_Lion: "Man this sums up your blog nicely."


Anpu-adom: "being Geek is about Love. Some love broadly. Some love deeply. And then there are people like Graven.
 
   
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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

Step 5: I've actually found a use for Elmer's school glue (it's a watered down version of Elmer's glue all...also known as PVA glue)! Usually I water my PVA glue down a bit before applying it to a base, but because the school glue is pre-watered down, I can just apply it straight from the bottle to my base! Hooray. Anywho, coat the base with this glue and then place said base in an uncovered box or tin (I used an empty Jacobsens of Denmark butter cookie tin, because those cookies rock...and the tin is shallow enough...and metal). Then throw some craft sand on the piece (I used Este's craft sand in obnoxious yellow, but you can use any really fine/coarse sand. I use Este's because I can buy a 5 lb bag for $4 USD), being sure to use more than you need (the tin or box catches the excess without making a mess) and tapping the piece around so that all the gluey areas are coated. Once the underlying glue dries, mix your PVA with enough water that it becomes essentially the consistency of milk (and color, we hope) and coat the whole terrain base with it, to seal the sand on. It's important to wait till the glue under the sand dries or you'll just be moving the sand around and clogging your (hopefully throw-away anyway) brush with clumps of sand. I usually wait at least 24 hours for this sealing layer to completely dry before I move on to my next step.

Also, at any time before you seal the sand on, you can rub it off some of the bends in your "roots" to simulate roots poking out of the earth.





I can't tell if this last picture makes it easier or more difficult to see the yellow sand...



More steps coming soon!

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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

Not to diverge from this terrain tutorial, but I wanted to showcase a Hero's Plinth I've been making.






I wanted to make it tall and imposing. A pillar of heroism, something befitting the Imperium's audacity and tyranny. My Barry Ork is dwarfed by this thing.





I'm going to fill the platform where the sand and rocks are now with air-drying clay, but this close up should show the lights at the feet of the thing.




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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

Okay, so back to the tutorial.

Step 6: Once the glue dries on your piece, prime it. You can do it the old fashioned way with a spray can, or (if you're like me and have nosy neighbors who call the cops at the first rattle of the spray can) you can paint it on with some cheapo acrylic craft paint and a big brush. I use "My Studio" brand paint. It's like $5 USD for 8 oz. of paint (that's cheaper and 7.6 oz. larger than GW paints).

Tada!



Step 7: Once the primer layer dries (and you may have to coat it more than once to get an even color and to cover up any of the sand and material color peaking through...I've used cheapo paints, after all), begin overbrushing your base color. Two things to note here: 1 is that, if you aren't familiar, overbrushing is much like drybrushing but with intentionally too much paint on your brush. I use a flat, straight wash brush (Loew-Cornell 245B) and tap some color onto the head, then vigorously bat the brush head back and forth over the base. The idea is to catch the raised details (of which there should be plenty with all the texture I've invested into this thing), but not to paint everything. Some of the black primer should remain visible. The second bit is: your base color should be a color you would never think should be on terrain representing wilderness. My criteria are a) does this color seem like it would never occur in nature and b) is it muted enough that it won't overpower the remaining layers of color. In other words, shy away from neon colors, but purple, red, dull orange, and blue are all feasible. Don't be afraid to experiment. Personally I use "My Studios" Plum.



Step 8: Next layer should be a color more traditionally associated with nature and trees. In my case I used Brown (that's the totally unimaginative name for the My Studios color), but you could also easily use a dark grey, tan, blue-green, dark green, etc.



Here is a shot of the two layers side by side.


Step 9: The last layer should be very bright, like white, light grey, or bone. A subdued yellow could also likely work or a light green. Whatever you choose, it's the same method of overbrushing as all the previous layers.





Step 10: Now to hotglue your jungle stuff in. I buy "bushes" of plastic leafy things from my local arts and craft stores. They're usually $5 - $8 USD and have anywhere from 30 to 300 individual stalks on them. They aren't marketed to people like me, so this criteria I assume never goes through the manufacturer's heads, but I buy them based on how many stalks I get per 10 cents. It is likely very strange for the sales people at these stores to watch me count every tiny leaf to make sure I'm getting my money's worth.

Anyway, Once you pull these things off they have an irriating little nib on the bottom where they connected to the "bush" (by the way, don't throw out the bush these things are attached to, I'll have another tutorial later to describe what to do with those).


Just use clippers to be rid of that thing, like so -


And you get a usable this -


I separate all my various jungle stalks so I have a better idea of what I'm working with and also for ease of access once I begin.


Then put a dab of hotglue in the straw holes (action shot forthcoming), and glue your stalks into your bases.








Honestly, your possibilities are virtually endless.

Next I'll have a tutorial for building this thing -

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New York City

The "Fernball" is built is much the same way as the jungle bases, except you start with a styrofoam ball hotglued to the center of your wooden base and then glue in straws of various thicknesses around the top of the ball. I also use wire or the metal-reinforced arms of plastic bushes clipped to random length, bent and hot glued around the base of the ball as the foundation of the plant's trunk.



Once that cools you can begin pouring more hotglue over the top of the ball being careful to a.) Avoid the straw apertures and b.) Use very hot and therefore liquidy hot glue si Iit cascades down the sides of the ball in a natural manner. This process usually takes a few layers/applications. Once the entire exterior is coated, loop hot glue around the straws to cover them as well. Remember to leave the holes uncovered. When everything is cool, coat the whole piece in textured gel. You can use the gel, if you wait for the first layer to completely dry, to cover up any gaps you might have in the trunk's exterior.



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New York City

After you've glued sand to the base and sealed it, you can prime it and paint it using the same method as for the flatter bases above. I usually clip down the ends of whatever plastic plant frond I'm going to use and test fit them to the straw holes to make sure I have cut them down enough. Once dry (and when using craft acrylics this takes seconds, really), use your hotglue gun and put a small dollop into the open straw holes. It's important to do this one straw at a time as the hotglue will cool pretty quickly once dispensed. Then put your plant fronds in the holes. If you've used a variety of straw thicknesses like I have, some will only fit 1 frond. This is okay as it breaks up the density of the foliage. And viola! You have another jungle plant. If you vary the colors you use to paint your bases and the color and type of plastic plants you use, you can create an endless variety of jungles. I sometimes use aquarium plant fronds because it makes for a striking alien landscape. Don't be afraid to vary your colors or foliage types, even on the same piece, as this adds believeability to your object. Also remember that the terrain piece is just a background piece for your wargame and it's your figures and armies that are the real showcase. All this terrain just makes them look cooler.












Automatically Appended Next Post:
You can also make trees with this method. I used paper lollipop sticks that I PVA-glued together and then sawed down to random sizes to create mine. First I hotglued some random styrofoam chunks onto my base then dug a small hole in the styrofoam (I guess Europeans might call this stuff expanded foam or packing foam, but I really have no idea) with a pointed file - I suppose one could use a hobby knife instead, the file I just felt was safer; less likely to slice one or more of my fingers open for no reason. Then I fill the hole with hotglue or PVA glue, whichever is handier (although I find hotglue to have a better hold once dry) and stick my lollipop trunk in the hole. When that cools, I use my gun to drape hotglue along the sticks and to create roots in a similar fashion to the flat bases above.



Coat the trunk with textured gel. Then coat the base with glue and sand, seal it, prime it, and paint it like all the rest. I haven't figured out what I'm going to do to the tops of these things yet. I don't know if I'm going to drill holes in the trunk and glue small pieces of plastic plants to simulate branches or put sticky craft glue at the tops and glue on tufts of colored turf. Decisions, decisions...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/08/17 00:21:18


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Pittsburgh PA, USA

Warboss your terrain is impressive! I love the tutorials! I'll definitely have to try out making some myself! Can't wait to see the rest of your buildings!

And I totally dig/see happening your Hero's monument, definitely fits with the overly ridiculous high gothicness found just about every where except Ultramar

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New York City

Here are a few small buildings I'm working on now. These photos show the barest bones of the buildings. There is plenty more to come.







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New York City

I also started some objective markers. I came across a cheap model of the MIR orbital space station and chopped it into usable portions, then based them on spare slotta bases, covering where they join with air-drying clay. Let me know what you guys think. I figured them to look like generic comms arrays.






I still need to base them and paint them, but any feedback is much appreciated.


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New York City

Some WIP buildings:















Feedback always appreciated!

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Xeno-Hating Inquisitorial Excruciator





Australia

This is some really creative stuff! I'll definitely look forward to seeing the rest of your work.

   
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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

Thanks for the feedback, Citizen Luka!

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Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





Very Nice..So far so good ..Hot glue is a very verstaile tool ..the Textured gels are a nice touch as well ..

Saw Dust (all that you get from Making the MDF bases) is a very nice touch and addition to the rubble heaps or basing ..( I have three screens I send the dust thru I sweep off my shop floor to get it in different sizes..the finest gets mixed with paint to be flocking) the becomes rubble..

I like the use of various size and types of straws..and hot glue ..the little discs I will have to see if they are cheaper or continue to just cut random shapes from MDF for my stuff


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh ROTOZIP..Looks like and oversized dremel is a great tool for random and straight shapes from MDF ..and leaves a lot of fine sawdust that can be used for flocking

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/09/12 17:52:49


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Krazed Killa Kan





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Here are some more work in progress shots of various trees and bases. Feedback always welcome!








These couple of shots show what the bases look like after the paint goes on, but before the trees get glued into the holes.



And these are a color comparison to show the variety one can achieve with little effort.






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The really tall trees above (with the green bases) are made with wooden craft sticks, but could just as easily be made with the little wooden coffee stirrer sticks they have in Starbucks.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/09/12 18:17:05


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New York City

Thanks for the info morfydd. This ROTOZIP, I can get this device at a home depot or is there another place you would recommend I get it at? It sounds really useful. I've been purchasing precut hdf (a tougher version of mdf) from art stores. They have a canvas material on one side, but are otherwise just perfectly cut bases. I was buying them in bulk when they were on sale for back to school. I like the idea of modifying them slightly or chopping them into irregular shapes for use as forests, etc.


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Also, I feel I have been remiss in my gratitude for feedback. So with that in mind, I'd like to say thank you to Master Azalle, Galorn, desubot, and inmygravenimage! I very much appreciate your input!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/09/13 22:15:45


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Near Boston

Thanks for the ping. Roto zips are indeed sold at places like home despot, and lowes. They are an odd tool inbetween a full router and a dremel. The hdf squares sound really handy for squares and rectangles. The canvaslike fabric material would make cutting them into irregular shapes somewhat more difficult than it would be to cut mdf. Home despot does sell precut panels of thin mdf that are aproximately 2ft x 4ft. (Usually a little.larger or spot on)

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Krazed Killa Kan





New York City

 Galorn wrote:
Thanks for the ping. Roto zips are indeed sold at places like home despot, and lowes. They are an odd tool inbetween a full router and a dremel. The hdf squares sound really handy for squares and rectangles. The canvaslike fabric material would make cutting them into irregular shapes somewhat more difficult than it would be to cut mdf. Home despot does sell precut panels of thin mdf that are aproximately 2ft x 4ft. (Usually a little.larger or spot on)


Hah! I'm not the only person who calls them "home despot". The canvas on the back of the hdf board is actually just a canvas-like texture and not actual fabric, so cutting it is no more difficult than cutting regular hdf or mdf board. I've purchased thoae sheets of mdf from home despot bwfore but I'm personally inept at cutting perfect shapes. I use them to cut irregular shapes for larger forest pieces or wide expanses of rubble. I've also seen, but have no idea where to find, boxes of 20 roughly 18" square mdf tiles. These boxes are like my terrain-building holy grail.

Thanks for the protips, Galorn!

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Home Despot also has the HDF ..often called Hard Board..and just as a side not the Crackle and diomand deck looking semi transparent light covers that are 2 foot by 4 foot and 1.5 mm in thickness is now made from semi clear Styerene and not from acrylic anymore making it very usefull source of cheapo plasticard


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The Rotozip..also has other brands ..vesides the original now so the price is not horrid ..later (prolly sunday morning (I can post a pic of one beside a dremal for a size refernce

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/09/15 04:45:07


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