Switch Theme:

Sculpting Snafus: Beards and Long hair  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

Made my first attempt and sculpting beards and long hair tonight. I used both Milliput Superfine White, and Greenstuff, as well as a mix of the two. Pure Milliput was a disaster, and will require a decapitation to clean up. Best success was with pure Greenstuff, but it didn't come out as I'd hoped. I theorize that it's better to have a bit more yellow than blue in this case. I plan to give that a go, am I going the right way? The mix was interesting, and I think maybe an 80/20 GS to Milliput mix might be ok, rather than the roughly 60/40 I used. Maybe another type of Milliput? I've read a gajillion tutorials on it, (especially FTW's article, many times) can anyone give me any extra advice, general tips, or tips for either material?

Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company 2750
Nihilakh Dynasty WIP
Loki's Thousand Sons: 700 WIP

DQ:80-SG-M++B--I+Pw40k13#-D++A+/fWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in gb
Stone Bonkers Fabricator General




We'll find out soon enough eh.

The main thing you have to remember with GS is that it's slightly elastic; it will want to go back to its starting position after you move it around. The level of elasticity changes as the putty cures, I find the key is to get the rough shapes down right away, then leave it for a good ten or fifteen minutes before I go back to it and get the main shapes in place. After that it's a matter of going back to it every ten minutes or so and refining your work until you're happy with it or the putty cures and you have to tear it off and begin again, heh.

Now, there's nothing wrong with GS, and you can probably achieve something similar using the 80/20 mix of GS/Milliput you mentioned(is it Superfine White you have?), but I do most of my sculpting using ProCreate now - it's slightly more expensive than the bulk-buy GS you can find on ebay, but it's far easier to work with IMO.

I need to acquire plastic Skavenslaves, can you help?
I have a blog now, evidently. Featuring the Alternative Mordheim Model Megalist.

"Your society's broken, so who should we blame? Should we blame the rich, powerful people who caused it? No, lets blame the people with no power and no money and those immigrants who don't even have the vote. Yea, it must be their fething fault." - Iain M Banks
-----
"The language of modern British politics is meant to sound benign. But words do not mean what they seem to mean. 'Reform' actually means 'cut' or 'end'. 'Flexibility' really means 'exploit'. 'Prudence' really means 'don't invest'. And 'efficient'? That means whatever you want it to mean, usually 'cut'. All really mean 'keep wages low for the masses, taxes low for the rich, profits high for the corporations, and accept the decline in public services and amenities this will cause'." - Robin McAlpine from Common Weal 
   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

I haven't sculpted much hair but what i did was always with pure GS. I don't know what hairstyle you want to create but most hairstyles look best with a more organic flow with strands beeing not all parallel. Just add a strand here or there that breaks with the flow or overlaps another strand.

In my most recent hair i used just normal GS. I flatened out the the hair cut the strands in with a hobby knife and used a sharp tipped clay shaper to go over each cut again.
You can see a bit of that on those:


As for the mix only add milliput if you want very sharp picked out strands. But hair doesn't need to be perfectly sharp. Even GW doesn't pick out too much details on hair.


And have you tried out using just milliput standard with GS like i do? I like it more than mixing with milliput white. It is cheaper and it feels more flexible. (But maybe my white was an old batch )

   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







My understanding of materials is to use milliput for harder objects where you need nice crisp edges and GS for more organic stuff. On that basis pure GS is the right material for hair. I agree with doomhammer for the limited times I've done hair.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

I agree, pure GS was easier to work with. I'm just going for long hair, nothing fancy stylistically. It came out rougher than I'd wanted but I think with more yellow than blue it won't be as sticky and thus stay a bit smoother.

Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company 2750
Nihilakh Dynasty WIP
Loki's Thousand Sons: 700 WIP

DQ:80-SG-M++B--I+Pw40k13#-D++A+/fWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: